How to bargain at flea markets

Despite that sucking sound known as eBay, collectors can still find true gems among the junk at garage sales, flea markets, and even tony antique shows. And everything—or nearly everything—is negotiable.

I just spent a week’s vacation picking through acres of bicycles, vintage cameras, cap guns, kiddie cars, watches, postcards, and countless other remnants of the past at the outdoor flea market at Brimfield, Mass. This vast event, held in May, July, and September, has been called the Woodstock of antique shows for good reason. I got some genuine steals and managed to avoid a few truly raw deals with these well-worn tricks of the trade:

Have some idea of what it’s worth. Schiffer Books publishes books for collectors of everything from Depression glass to toy cars. You can also find online sources, including, of course, eBay, to get an idea of what nearly any item is worth. And you can compare like or similar items at different booths at a large show like Brimfield. While you’ll find some notable disparities, I’ve found that the Internet has leveled the playing field for dealers and once-naïve amateurs. Steals are still possible, but you’ll be lucky if you can consistently pay the low end of the going rate.

Look for the best condition. This and completeness (see below) can often trump rarity, since even scarce pieces tend to be worth little if they’re in poor condition. But items that have been restored to like-new condition tend to be worth less than unrestored pieces in good shape. For example, a watch with a repainted dial—no matter how well the refinishing was done—can be worth 50 percent less than one with an original dial in decent or better condition. Use a loupe or other magnifier and good light to check for uneven markings and other signs of a redo on watches and other items. If a portion of an item looks brand-new while the rest of it shows wear, odds are that section was redone. If in doubt, ask whether the item is totally original; most dealers will fess up if questioned. Evasiveness or a sudden retreat into ignorance are red flags.

Think twice about broken or incomplete pieces. Unless you specialize in a particular area, have access to parts and reasonable repairs, or can do the work yourself, buying a project—even at a “bargain” price—will often cost you more and be worth less over time. Examples include torn paintings, vintage games, or toys that are missing parts, gold-filled or plated watches with some or all of the gold worn off, etc. 

Look for bargaining chips. While the original box for a toy or watch may not be critical, it can add significantly to the item’s worth, especially for toys. So if it’s missing you can try to bargain the price down. If the item has damage you can repair or wear you’re willing to live with, point it out, but be diplomatic. No seller enjoys having merchandise denigrated and will often stick to a higher price (or tell you to get lost). Instead, say that you like the item but you’re on the fence about its flaws. Ask, as sweetly and politely as possible, whether they can do a little better. Or, tell them that if they can do a little better, you’re a buyer.

Let the seller name the price. Most do, but some use the age-old ploy of asking what you’re willing to pay. Even sneakier, some savvy sellers claim they don’t know what an item is worth and ask you to tell them, hoping to shop the item around. In that situation, politely remind the seller that when you buy a new car or shirt, the seller names a price. Then push for one, even if it’s a vague, in-the-neighborhood figure. If you sense that the seller really doesn’t know what the item is worth, make a reasonable offer at least close to the going price. Besides taking the moral high road, you’ll win a friend—and possibly good deals in the future—when they eventually find out the true worth. If you feel the seller is playing dumb, quote an extremely low figure; that should push the seller to end the ruse and get real.

If you’re serious, be sure the seller knows it. Obviously this doesn’t mean looking anxious or overly enthusiastic—two deadly sins we all learned in Bargaining 101. Instead, emphasize that you like the piece but are on the fence about one thing or another. That includes simply saying you weren’t planning on spending that much or even buying that day, but you’re tempted. Then do what one well-known watch dealer does: Once the seller has named a price, say that you’re a buyer at such and such an amount, within reason, emphasizing cash (though not too eagerly or anxiously). Again, it pays to have a good idea of the item’s typical selling range, but you can often bluff. Odds are, the seller will meet you at least 25 percent of the way if not 50 percent, after which you can suggest splitting the difference.

Show them the money. Timing and finesse are critical here. Crassly waving a few crisp twenties or hundreds in the face of a seller who has emphatically refused your offer can prove insulting. But if you open your wallet and calmly begin taking out those crisp bills as you’re making the offer—or just after—the sight of all that cash can be a strong tipping point, especially for bulky items the seller would otherwise have to reload and ship back home.

Add tension at the right moment. Mentioning offhandedly that the show, flea market, or garage sale is quiet as you’re bargaining can also be a tipping point. This works even better when it looks as if it’s about to rain and the seller will wind up empty-handed.  (“I think I felt a drop” is a proven winner.) Taking out some cash just after this offhanded remark can seal the deal.—Bob Markovich