Sears brings back layaway plan for holiday shoppers

Sears has dusted off its layaway program—in storage since 1989—and is reintroducing the plan at all of its mainline and hardware stores throughout the U.S. from November 16 through December 23, 2008. The retailer has also announced that as of November 16, it will sell some merchandise at deeply discounted prices rather than wait until the day after Thanksgiving­—a.k.a. Black Friday.

Sears, which has struggled this year, will hold merchandise like tools, lawn and garden equipment, toys, and clothes for consumers at its more than 1,000 U.S. stores. Electronics, appliances, and doorbusters do not qualify for layaway, says the Hoffman Estates, Illinois-based company. Visit the Sears Web site for more details on covered products.

The down payment for layaway items is $15 or 20 percent of the full price, whichever is greater, and you must pay for the merchandise in full by this December 23. You’ll pay a $5 nonrefundable service fee (residents of Maryland will pay a $1 fee), and if you cancel, you’ll get your down payment back less $10.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential reading: Learn more about layaway plans by reading “Back to the Future With Layaway Plans.”

Settlement update in ChoiceDek decking class action

In early July, we reported on a class-action claim targeting Advanced Environmental Recycling Technologies (AERT) and Weyerhaeuser, respectively the manufacturer and distributor of ChoiceDek, a composite decking and railing product sold at Lowe's.

At the time of our earlier post, the complaint had yet to be resolved, and its approval still faces a January 8, 2009, fairness hearing before final approval. The companies have recently agreed to a settlement, though they still deny that their product is susceptible to mold and mildew that resists easy cleanup.

As the owner of a ChoiceDek deck, you're part of the established class if you bought the material from January 1, 2004, through December 31, 2007, or later if the manufacture date stamped at the end of decking boards indicates the product was made between January 1, 2004, and October 1, 2006.

Under the terms of the settlement agreement, you must prove you qualify for membership in the class and that your decking has significant mold spotting. You'll need to supply details about the deck installation and cleaning history within six months of the final approval of the settlement. If you meet these conditions, AERT will clean your deck and apply a mold inhibitor to your deck, both at no cost to you.

If mold returns within six months of the cleaning and boards are gapping by at least 3/32 inch, you might be eligible to get back 100 percent of what you paid for the decking, replacement ChoiceDek decking, or three additional free deck cleanings. If the mold and the same gapping occur 12 to 18 months after the cleaning, you'll get a $250 Lowe's gift card or two coupons for discounted cleanings. Up to 18 months after an AERT cleaning you can get 100 percent reimbursement for the decking, replacement decking, or three free cleanings, but you must meet the conditions outlined in the agreement.

For more information on the settlement or to get a claim form, visit the settlement site or call 877-220-6624.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: Read about the best decking materials in our latest report. Also learn how to choose a deck, check out the different decking types, and keep your deck safe and in tiptop condition. And don't forget to use our new Home Improvement Guide interactive, which offers buying advice on appliances, tools, and building materials for every area of your home.

Homelite recalls 370,000 chain saws

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission on October 30, 2008, announced the recall of about 370,000 Homelite chain saws whose chain brake could fail to stop the chain on its first application, posing a risk of laceration ris. For full details, including a list of the 10 Homelite models affected, visit this CPSC recall page.

If you're using a chain saw as part of your fall cleanup, here's what you need to know:

• Our anatomy of a chain saw lists specific performance and safety features on the models included in our latest report on chain saws (ratings are available to subscribers). It's interesting to note that seven models lacked a chain brake. That's significant, since checking the chain brake leads the advice in our primer on chain-saw maintenance.

• Our advice for safer sawing and the video (right) illustrate proper protective equipment and sawing technique.

• Cutting down a tree is a job best left to the pros, particularly for trees larger than about 6 inches around. While trees often fall in the direction they’re leaning, it can be tricky to know where they'll come down. The University of Missouri’s extension center's Web site is among several with illustrated tree- felling techniques.

Highlights of the 2008 Green Industry and Equipment Expo

From its roots in the former International Lawn, Garden & Power Equipment Expo trade show, the Green Industry and Equipment Expo has tended to be long on equipment and short on green. But at the 2008 event, held last week in Louisville, Kentucky, many companies, even heavy-gear manufacturers, got in on the green act.

Trumpeting one's claimed pro-environmental efforts is good public relations, of course, but some equipment makers have another motivation to market eco-friendly products: The latest U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations for curtailing the emissions of small, nonroad engines allow for low- or no-emissions engines to generate credits to offset the emissions of relatively gas-guzzling products.

Here's some of what I saw at the expo:

The first zero-emissions zero-turn-radius emerges. Zero-turn-radius mowers and zero emissions might seem an unlikely couple, but with the electric Zeon (shown), you'll be able to get a no-emissions ZTR mower. Outfitted with a 48-volt, four-battery system and a 42-inch welded-steel deck, this prosumer model will run for 80 minutes on a full charge, claim manufacturer Hustler Turf Equipment and its partner, transmission maker Hydro-Gear. Zero emissions won't come cheap—the Zeon, due out next spring, will likely cost $6,500 to $7,000.

This robot can charge itself. Husqvarna introduced 80 products at the show, with a new version of its Automower robotic lawn mower among the most interesting. The Automower Solar Hybrid, $3,000, can recharge its battery even as it mows, claims Husqvarna. It's designed to handle lawns up to a half-acre, with the odds of its reaching that goal improving if the sun is shining. As with other robotic mowers we've tested, this Automower is supposed to mow within an area you set using wires laid along its perimeter. When it reaches a wire, it turns; when the battery gets low down, the mower returns to its base. In our past tests, robotic mowers have delivered unimpressive cutting performance.

A new oil is "suet-able" for small engines. Manufacturers of equipment such as mowers, snowmobiles, and generators have met the new federal emissions standards by redesigning engines and other components. Green Earth Technologies has introduced another way to run an engine more cleanly: G-OIL Garden & Recreational engine oil, made from beef tallow. One distributor, Dante Terzigni, told me the biodegradable two-cycle oil starts as fat harvested from slaughtered cows and is morphed into usable form through nanotechnology. Terzigni claimed the oil runs cleaner than petroleum-based oil, emits no smoke at its 262°F flash point, and meets industry certification specs. You'll find Green Earth Technologies products at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and other retailers and on Amazon.com.—Ed Perratore

Tip of the Day: Take the work and injury out of fall cleanup

As I lay in bed last Sunday morning recovering from a day spent removing my air conditioners, my colleague Steven H. Saltzman had already started on his fall yard cleanup and wasted no time blogging about it.

Don't feel guilty if you've yet to start your own seasonal cleanup. In this case, procrastination is not a bad thing--use the time to review our best lawn-care products.

Plus, you'll be able to heed this expert advice from the Consumer Reports Health blog to avoid raking-related and other injuries. And follow these tips from Silvana Fix, D.P.T., a doctor of physical therapy with Spine and Sports Rehab in Fairfield, Connecticut.

• Before you start working, "a brisk walk for about 10 minutes is a good general warm-up," says Fix. To stretch your back, "Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and bend backward five to 10 times before returning to a full upright position," says Fix.

For your quadriceps, bend your right leg, grab the ankle with your right hand, and gently pull your leg toward your buttocks. Hold that for a count of 10 or 20. Repeat with your left leg. Be sure you're near a wall or tree and on flat ground so you can maintain your balance.

Fix also recommends this easy chest-and-shoulder stretch: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, clasp your hands behind your back and gently bring your hands away from your back. Hold for a count of 10 and repeat two or three times.

• When you rake, "Keep your wrists in a neutral position, with no bending. A rake that has a bent or side-mounted handle can help here," says Fix. She adds that good body mechanics are important: "Place one foot ahead of the other, keep your back straight, and rake the leaves while taking small steps backward and keeping your arms close to our body."

As you work, avoid stooping or bending forward, twisting your back, and overreaching with your arms, and keep your feet planted firmly in one place on the ground, according to Fix, who notes that you should stretch again when you're done and consult a medical professional if you pain lingers.—Gian Trotta

Essential information: Remember, it's important to get rid of leaves, especially under your deck. Piles of leaves are an open invitation to mice, which can carry Lyme disease and hantavirus, and other pests to set up warm winter homes. Our fall lawn-and-yard checklist will help your yard looks its best next spring. Autumn is an especially effective time to fertilize some lawns. Don't hesitate to fall back on mechanical help to get the job done, including the latest leaf-bagging lawn tractors, cordless and gas-powered leaf blowers, and string trimmers.

The leaves on the trees are falling . . .

I just got back in from an early-morning walk with my 17-week-old dog, and one thing's clear here in my Northern New Jersey hometown: Fall-cleanup season has begun in earnest the last couple of days. The weather has been terrific recently, mild days with more of a late-summer everything-is-in-bloom upbeat feel than a winter-is-coming, let's-pack-it-in-for-the-season dread.

This morning, the brass dial thermometer on my deck reads a bracing 41°F; that's not too bad for October 18, but the leaves have taken the autumn chill of the last 48 hours as a sign to release their tree-bound grip and cascade toward the suburban lawns.

For me and countless others, the sudden shift to full-on fall will interrupt our regularly scheduled lineup of relaxing weekend programming and force us to grab rake, mower, leaf blower, collection receptacle, and myriad essential gear as we gather countless leaves from all the ash, locust, maple, sycamore, and oak trees around us.

Fall cleanup is not a terrible hassle for me, and I dig the vibrant splashes of seasonal color, but I am always looking for ways to make the job go faster and more efficiently. (The sooner it's done tomorrow, for instance, the earlier my twins and I can go for a bike ride.) Fortunately, a colleague of mine prepared this "Tip of the Day: Make faster work of leaf removal" last fall. I followed some of the DIY advice then and I'll use it again in the coming weeks. You should, too.

Good luck, all you leaf wranglers out there. If you have some can't-miss suggestions for ways to deal with leaves, add a comment below.—Steven H. Saltzman

Essential information: Read these other smart moves for fall cleanup. And if you're in the market for a new leaf blower, check out our ratings-based report before you buy.

Pest Patrol: How to control moles in your yard

Moles, common in backyards throughout most of the United States, are a frequently cited problem in our Pest Patrol forum. The two most common mole varieties—star-nosed and eastern—measure about 7 inches long from nose to tail. They have broad, outward-facing pads on their front feet, small and narrow hind feet, and tiny pinholes for eyes; their ears are not visible.

Moles are voracious, high-metabolism feeders who use their large front paws to tunnel through the ground searching for ants, earthworms, and grubs; some species consume more than their weight in food daily. "They are pretty well adapted to life underground," says Craig Riekena, a compliance manager for Bell Laboratories, which makes the mole poison Talpirid. "Their fur lies and flexes against their skin in a way that lets them tunnel as if they're swimming."

You'll know you have a mole problem if you spot visible trenches and dug-up soil in your lawn and garden. Look for the raised ridges that characterize mole feeding burrows, along with molehills, which look like miniature volcanoes with plugged holes in the center. These are often located close to the deep permanent burrows where moles nest and reproduce.

Some molehills can be substantial enough to damage mower blades and housings. Flower beds are also at risk. "Since grubs gather around the roots of shrubs and flowers, moles scrape that dirt away and remove the plant's foundation and depriving the flowers of nourishment," says Stephanie VanSyckle, a spokeswoman for mole-trap manufacturer Victor.

Whether you take action against moles will depend on the extent of the damage they cause and your personal threshold for how it looks. Consumers Union Senior Scientist Michael Hansen notes that the ridges and molehills are mainly an aesthetic problem; you can tamp down the ridges and water them to repair damage. Hansen points out that moles' preferred foods include several soil pests, especially grubs, so getting rid of moles could exacerbate other problems.

To prevent moles from burrowing under or climbing into specific sections of your garden, experts recommend burying metal mesh hardware cloth 2 feet vertically below ground with another 6 inches showing above ground. Moles tend to tunnel closer to the surface in spring when soil is moist and go deeper in the summer. "Since moles have trouble burrowing through dense soil, arranging stones or dense claylike soil around a garden to a depth of 2 feet can also help," says Hansen.

Another natural defense—using a castor-oil mixture—has been touted by a poster in the Pest Patrol forum who says he hit on the idea after hearing that moles sometimes avoid fields where castor beans are planted. There's more than a bean of truth to that idea—a series of studies by three Michigan State University researchers revealed that one castor-oil-based spray repellent did keep moles at bay for periods ranging from 30 to 60 days.

However, researchers from Ohio State University and the University of Arkansas disagree with the MSU  findings, citing the short duration and effect of weather on the tests. Marne Titchenell, a professor of wildlife ecology at OSU, also warns that castor oil can harm insects, earthworms and other creatures that populate the soil.

Peter Sawchuk, a program leader in our Technical Department, reports good results using Spectracide's Mole Stop and Bonide's Mole & Gopher Repellent. "Both of these have worked well for me," Sawchuk says, "but keep in mind that you'll be driving the moles into the adjoining property, which might not endear you to your neighbor." Other posters are recommending cats as another natural way to control moles.

EPA sets lower emissions regulations for mowers

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recently updated its regulations for emissions from "small spark-ignition engines"—that is, your lawn mower or tractor and other outdoor power equipment.

As with earlier phases of these regulations (see chart, below), the latest guidelines, Phase 3, further reduce levels of hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides, contributors to ground-level ozone and smog, from the exhaust of gas-powered mowers, tractors, and other handheld outdoor gear, including generators. (It also affects in- and outboard engines and other marine equipment.) For the first time since 1997, when the first phase of emissions regulations took effect, the new regulations also limit hydrocarbons that evaporate from the tank, hoses, and other components when the equipment is off.

The new regulations take effect in 2011 for tractors and other riding models and in 2012 for mowers. Eighty percent of Class I (walk-behind mowers) and nearly 70 percent of Class II (riding mowers) engine families from the leading manufacturers would have to be redesigned to be compliant, according to EPA documents. Engine manufacturers won't necessarily have to bring every engine down to the new levels, but the weighted averages of the company's line in a given year will need to comply.

"From an exhaust standpoint, these standards are the most stringent, and probably the most technically difficult, to deal with so far," says Tom Savage, senior vice president of engineering at Briggs & Stratton, which sells engines and also lawn equipment under Simplicity, Snapper, and other lines.

The California Air Resources Board (CARB) recently revamped its own emissions standards for walk-behind mowers built as of model-year 2007 and ride-on mowers starting in model-year 2008; the EPA's Phase 3 standards for Class I and II engines are similar to CARB's.

The EPA estimates that the price of a typical walk-behind mower could rise by $15 to $28 in the near term, though CARB's own estimates are roughly double. The price of riding models, says the EPA, could rise by $50 to nearly $100. The price hikes could be tied into catalytic converters, which the federal government has required on cars and light trucks since the 1970s. Some mower and tractor manufacturers might use catalytic converters to comply with the new regulations.

Mowers and tractors built under the new EPA regulations should use less gas, possibly offsetting the price increase, says Kris Kiser, senior vice president of public affairs for the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute, a manufacturer trade group. "There will be some gasoline cost savings over the life of the product," he says. You'll need to follow the recommended maintenance for your yard gear to maximize fuel savings.

Some have objected to the EPA ruling, noting that catalytic converters run hot enough to pose a threat of fire when the engine is used in dry, heavy growth or near lawn debris. The EPA, however, says that the new standards should not pose any additional threat of fire or injury and that compliance with the standards could even reduce the risk to consumers.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: Learn more about the different types of mowers, mowing safety, emissions, and robotic mowers and electric mowers. When you're ready to buy, read our latest mowers review, and refer to our ratings of push and self-propelled mowers and tractors (available to subscribers).
                                                    

		Effective model year	Hydrocarbons + nitrogen oxides (g/kW-hr)	Nonmethane hydrocarbons+ nitrogen oxides (g/kW-hr) [1]	Carbon monoxide (g/kW-hr)	Expected reduction in hydrocarbons (%)
Phase 1	Mowers	1997	16.1	--	519	32
	Tractors	1997	13.4	--
Phase 2	Mowers	2007	16.1	14.8	610	59
	Tractors	2001-2005	12.1	11.3
Phase 3	Mowers	2012	10	14.8	610	34
	Tractors	2011	8	11.3

[1] For products fueled by natural gas

		Effective model year	Hydrocarbons + nitrogen oxides (g/kW-hr)	Nonmethane hydrocarbons+ nitrogen oxides (g/kW-hr) [1]	Carbon monoxide (g/kW-hr)	Expected reduction in hydrocarbons (%)
Phase 1	Mowers	1997	16.1	--	519	32
	Tractors	1997	13.4	--
Phase 2	Mowers	2007	16.1	14.8	610	59
	Tractors	2001-2005	12.1	11.3
Phase 3	Mowers	2012	10	14.8	610	34
	Tractors	2011	8	11.3

		Effective model year	Hydrocarbons + nitrogen oxides (g/kW-hr)	Nonmethane hydrocarbons+ nitrogen oxides (g/kW-hr) [1]	Carbon monoxide (g/kW-hr)	Expected reduction in hydrocarbons (%)
Phase 1	Mowers	1997	16.1	--	519	32
	Tractors	1997	13.4	--
Phase 2	Mowers	2007	16.1	14.8	610	59
	Tractors	2001-2005	12.1	11.3
Phase 3	Mowers	2012	10	14.8	610	34
	Tractors	2011	8	11.3

10 Questions for . . . Robert Lenney, Gutter Expert

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . . , Associate Editor Gian Trotta talks with Robert Lenney, a cofounder of California-based Gutterglove and a former certified arborist. In December 2007,  Lenney and partner John Lewis received a patent for their Gutterglove gutter-guard system, which uses a fine stainless-steel mesh stretched across anodized aluminum panels.

You've cleaned many gutters in your time. How should a homeowner start planning the task?
Always think about safety first; don't just go jump on the roof and start tossing out handfuls of gunk. Pick a day when it hasn't rained for a few days; if that's not possible, wait until midmorning, after the sun has dried out the roof.

Do you recommend any special clothing?
I recommend wearing durable pants like jeans and a long-sleeve shirt. Tuck your shirt into your pants—when you're up on a ladder or on a roof, balance is everything, and if a loose end of clothing catches on something, it can cause a fall. Tucking the bottom of your pants into your socks also protects against wasps crawling up your pants leg.

I certainly agree about the wasp hazard; I got stung on my last gutter-cleaning foray. What about gloves?
Leather rather than cotton or rubber gloves give better protection—there are a lot of sharp edges in a gutter. Also, you might encounter some very distasteful substances—pigeon droppings are a prime example—that can cause bacterial infections or leave a lingering smell on your hands. I also recommend some kind of eye protection, either goggles or safety glasses.

When it comes to ladder safety, what precautions do you observe?
There are some precautions to observe with all ladders. Try to set an extension ladder so about 3 feet of it extends above the roofline. While the ladder might feel secure when you step on it, there might be a gopher hole or loose soil under the leg and it could cave in as you climb up. So very lightly jump up and down a few times on the first rung to seat the ladder well before climbing up. If the ladder has a shelf, you can keep a five-gallon bucket on it, securing the bucket with a lanyard.

Inspect the ladder carefully to make sure it's working properly. Be sure the hinge arms on a stepladder and spring hooks on an extension ladder are fully locked. Check that the ladder's rungs and sides aren't  split or bent or loose and that screws and bolts are secure—ladders held together with rivets are usually better in this regard.

(Here are some additional guidelines from the experts at Consumer Reports: Ladders are categorized by weight ratings; we recommend that you get a heavy-duty type 1A. For gutters above 17 feet you should use a conventional extension ladder. Choose a fiberglass or wooden ladder where electricity is a factor, and remember that any ladder can conduct electricity when it’s wet. Extension ladders should be set up with the base 1 foot away from the wall for every 4 feet the ladder reaches up—that's 3 feet at the base for a 12-foot ladder, or roughly a 75-degree angle. For lower gutters, you can use a stepladder or multiuse ladder. No matter which ladder you have, always follow manufacturers directions for setup. For more ladder-safety advice, read our safety tips.) 

What other specialized tools should be used?
Don't use that heavy metal planter scoop from your garden kit or an old spatula. They can scratch steel gutters and give rust and opportunity to form. They can also damage the caulking used on seams of other types of metal gutters.

Those plastic orange gutter scoops sold in stores have one nice quality: Their tips are thin and flexible, so they conform to the contours of your particular gutter style. The downside is they're not as strong as a metal tool, so we go through a lot of them in a season. But the average homeowner should get a few years out of a scoop.

Tip of the Day: Fertilize your lawn this fall

After months of planting, fertilizing, mowing, and other chores, you might be ready to take a break from all the yard work.

But you shouldn't. Fertilizing your yard during the fall can be essential to maintaining a healthy lawn, especially if you have cool-season turfgrasses like bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass.

"Autumn is the optimum growth period," says Martin Petrovic, Ph.D., a turf expert in the Department of Horticulture at Cornell University. "The temperatures favor a balanced growth of roots and shoots, so the nutrients in the fertilizer have the best chance of doing their job." Petrovic recommends two fall applications based on the acronym SON, for September, October, and November: Do the first feeding in late September to early October, the second in November, around your final mow of the season.

Another helpful fertilizing mnemonic is "up, down, all around." That indicates the action of the three main ingredients in lawn fertilizer. Nitrogen promotes growth and greening ("up"), phosphorous aids root development ("down"), and potassium fortifies the grass against disease, cold, insects, and the like ("all around").

The numbers on a fertilizer bag, in N-P-K order, indicate the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, respectively, on a weight basis. For example, a 100-pound bag labeled 20-0-0 has 20 pounds of nitrogen but no phosphorus or potassium.

"Unfortunately, there's no magic formula for fall fertilizer," says Petrovic. You'll likely see 20-5-15 mix sold at home and garden centers, but the only sure way to determine your lawn needs is to test the soil. Private labs and cooperative extensions perform the service, including specific nutrient recommendations in their report.

Fertilizer bags should also indicate the nitrogen's release characteristic. Slow-release fertilizers contain water-insoluble nitrogen, making them suitable for early-fall applications. Later in the season, a water-soluble fast-release fertilizer is necessary, says Petrovic.

Recommendations for lawn fertilizers are usually given in actual nitrogen over a given area. As a general rule, you should apply no more than 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn if it's thin and weedy. "If the turf looks dense, you don't need to put down as much nitrogen," says Petrovic.

It's always better to use too little fertilizer rather than too much, since nitrogen and phosphorous not absorbed by your lawn can get washed into storm drains and watersheds. Known as nutrient pollution, this phenomenon is particularly problematic in coastal regions with loose, sandy soil. For more information, download the Environmental Protection Agency's June 2008 "Sowing the Seeds for Healthy Waterways" report.

Use the Purdue University Turf Fertilizer Calculator to figure out how much fertilizer you'll need based on the nitrogen concentration. Also, be sure to calibrate your drop spreader to make sure you don't overfertilize. And remember that using your mower's mulch setting can reduce fertilizer needs by a third since the soil-enriching nitrogen from decomposing clippings promote turf growth naturally.

Take care of your yard this fall, and you'll have less lawn maintenance to deal with come spring.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: See our fall lawn-and-yard checklist for advice on trees and shrubs, flowers and gardens, and how to use herbicides safely.

Tip of the Day: Use a string trimmer for late-summer and fall yard care

String trimmers are handy for cutting grass, weeds, and brush in areas your mower or tractor can’t reach, helping to keep your property looking its best and eliminating habitats for insects and rodents, and other critters. As fall approaches, you’ll want to be sure you don’t to provide overwintering abodes for pests.

With prices of the string trimmers in our ratings (available to subscribers) ranging from $20 to $370, we can help you weed out some choices and find the best model for your home. Read our latest report on string trimmers and watch the video at right, in which our garden-equipment guru Peter Sawchuk details the pros and cons and costs of gas and electric (corded and cordless) models.

Essential information: Get ready for autumn with our guide to fall yard care. And find the best leaf blower to make easier work of yard cleanup.

Protect Your Investment: Consider climate when building a new deck

If summer has taken a toll on your deck and you plan to replace it this fall or next spring, wouldn't it be nice to have a crystal ball to predict how long the deck will last, whether its color or grain will fade in the sun, or whether mildew stains will appear on shade-covered parts?

To get a glimpse into how well the almost two dozen different decking materials we recently tested might do after a year in different conditions, we left samples of each in Florida (warm, humid climate) and in Arizona (warm, arid climate); as a reference, we also kept a sample of each indoors in our labs.

(From left to right, the columns in the photographs here show the decking after one year stored in our lab; in Florida; and in Arizona. The five rows from top to bottom show the decking unwashed; washed with water and a brush; washed with OxiClean and a brush; washed with Behr wood cleaner; and cleaned with a pressure washer.)

Our testing indicates that rain and humidity foster the greatest mildew growth on composite decking materials. ChoiceDek (shown above), Monarch Exotics, Fiberon Tropics, Rhino Deck Vision Solid, and Trex Brasilia and Accents in particular showed mildew growth after a year in Florida. Symmatrix, Tamko EverGrain, and TimberTech stood out as the most resistant to mildew. Still, if you're concerned about mildew, consider using a deck stain formulated for composite decking. Also check whether the manufacturer claims its product is mildew resistant.

When it comes to wood, unless you apply a finish to preserve a wood deck—we recommend you treat a newly installed deck within a month of installation—it could turn an off color after a year or less. (Our wood decks turned gray in Florida, brown in Arizona.)

Color change in untreated decking isn't confined to wood. Trex Accents and Rhino Deck Vision Solid underwent the most dramatic color shift among composites. The plastic decking, including Deck Lok, Eon Classic, and Bear Boards, and the aluminum LockDry (shown right) we tested experienced little color change, and nearly all did an excellent job resisting mildew.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: For more details, visit our Decks & Deck Stains product page. And use our Outdoor-Living Guide to get the most out of your yard and deck, patio, or porch.

Of wasps and gutter guards

As evidenced by the comments to this September 2007 Q&A on fall cleanup, we receive lots of requests from readers to review gutter-guard systems. You'll be happy to know that we've added gutter guards to our list of products to test.

I've lusted after gutter guards, too, no time more strongly than when I recently hauled out my ladder to clean some debris from my gutters and the area under my elevated deck.

I had a willing helper in my 4-year-old daughter, Thea, who loves to work with me on household chores. But as soon as I propped the ladder onto my deck and rested it against the gutter, Thea let out a sharp cry; she'd been stung by a wasp. I carefully removed the stinger ASAP (some good advice I remembered from our summer-safety quiz) and dashed into the kitchen to mix a paste of baking soda and distilled vinegar to apply to the sting.

As I was searching for the wasp's lair, three of his cohorts dive-bombed me from above. I swatted away one, but two stung me on the chest. Fortunately, some of the baking soda-vinegar mixture was left over. Having had enough of these stinging pests, I ushered Thea inside and donned my sailing anorak, drew the hood and the face mask tight, slipped on some work gloves, and got back to cleaning the gutters—very carefully.

You see, several years ago while cleaning a friend's gutters, I put my hand directly into a wasp nest and got stung on four fingers; it felt as if a lit cigarette was being applied to each one.

So like you, I'm awaiting our tests of gutter guards. I know I'm not the only weekend warrior to suffer injuries—read more in this blog entry—but as they say, once bitten, er, stung, twice shy.—Gian Trotta

Essential information: It's not too late to check out our Guide to Summer Health & Safety, including a review of the best insect repellents.

Q&A: Who's responsible when my neighbor's tree falls on my roof?

During a recent storm, a branch from my neighbor's tree fell onto my roof. Who's responsible for the repairs and cleanup?

Unfortunately for roofs everywhere (not to mention shiny new sedans in driveways), this is an all-too-common query. In the September 2008 issue of Consumer Reports, we report that trees are among the most common causes of neighbor disputes. Couple that with the extreme weather now gripping the nation, and that's a lot of fallen tree limbs setting off some serious border wars.

So who has to pony up for the damages? The answer—as it often is where the law's concerned—is, that depends. If your neighbor knew, or should have known, that the branch was unsound, he or she is guilty of negligence and is thus responsible.

But unless the neighbor is a forest ranger or tree surgeon, proving negligence can be tricky. You might argue in court that the lack of foliage or visibly diseased bark provides clear proof that the limb in question was unsound. But the judge may not hear that defense, which is why neighbor disputes are best resolved outside the courts.

"You don't control the outcome," says Jonathan Rosenthal, executive director of Alternative Dispute Resolution Programs for the District Court of Maryland. "It's entirely up to the judge, who may only listen to certain evidence." Rosenthal (like everyone we interviewed for the September report) recommends mediation, in which a neutral third party helps feuding neighbors figure out a fair solution.                

But back to the tree branch on your roof. Culpability aside, most homeowners' insurance policies cover damage done by a neighbor's tree. After compensating you, the company may turn around and sue your neighbor, but you'll be spared the legal fees and inconvenience. However, the incident will almost certainly sour neighbor relations.

That's why it's best to address unsound limbs before they come hurtling to the ground. Any large or old trees should be inspected annually. Note that you're within your right to cut back from a neighbor's tree branches that encroach onto your property. As a courtesy, tell your neighbor beforehand. With any luck, the neighbor will share the expense, which can run anywhere from $300 to $1,000—still less than the cost of a new roof or car.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Read our latest report on homeowners' insurance, which includes five ways to cut your premiums. And bookmark our Storm and Emergency guide ahead of the next major weather event.

Protect Your Investment: Lawn mower/tractor

Whether your mower, lawn tractor, or zero-turn-radius riding mower is new or old, some midseason maintenance can keep it cutting cleanly and reliably for years to come. Otherwise, you may face the same situation of one Keith Walendowski of Milwaukee, who shot his Lawn-Boy mower because it wouldn't start. (In all fairness, here is one opinion that insists the mower got what was coming to it.)

I asked Peter Sawchuk, our lead tester of outdoor power equipment, about the best ways to extend the life of a lawn mower or tractor, including zero-turn-radius mowers. They're a smarter, cheaper, and safer alternative to going postal in your backyard:

Clean the deck regularly. Make it part of your mowing routine to wash out the underside of the deck with a hose after each mowing. Clipping buildup reduces mulching performance and corrodes the metal over time, particularly when those clippings include fertilizer. Do it immediately after mowing, before clippings dry and harden.

Many tractors and zero-turn-radius mowers come with washout ports that accept a hose. Some models also accept retrofit ports. (Among walk-behind mowers, newer Toros are among the models that include washout ports.) If you have to wash out a riding mower manually, get a set of automotive ramps and simply drive the front of the tractor onto the ramps for easier access beneath.

An extra tip: After washing the underside of the deck, consider spraying it with an organic-based, non-toxic lubricant to help keep clippings from sticking next time around.

Keep blades sharp. Especially during the hotter, dryer part of the season, sharpen the blade(s) or have it done. Optimally, you'll do it at the start of the season and monthly thereafter—more often if you do lots of heavy cutting. Dull blades damage the grass as they cut, leaving unsightly brown-tipped grass in their wake. You'll also pay more in gas, since dull blades make your mower work harder and longer. Buying spare blades means your lawn won't overgrow while you get the first sharpened.

Check the oil. Walk-behind mower engines typically give out after 150 to 200 hours of use—or about eight to 10 years. But you can easily cut that lifespan if you let the oil level on four-stroke engines get too low on the dipstick or don't change the oil as often as the manufacturer recommends. Each time you mow, check the oil before you begin, and add more when the level drop to halfway point or lower. But filling above the "full" mark can also shorten engine life by causing the oil to foam and fail to lubricate critical parts.

Check the tires. For a tractors or riding mower, midseason is also the time of year to check tire pressure. As with car tires, those on mowers gradually lose air even without an actual leak, making the machine harder to steer and damaging the tires if air pressure gets too low. A rear tire that's low can also affect traction, making it easier to tear grass or slide on inclines.

Consider a new mower if your old one is tired. As with appliances and most products we test, it typically makes sense to replace rather than repair if the fix costs more than 50 percent of what you'll pay for a comparable new model. A timely benefit to newer gas mowers and tractors: They tend to run more efficiently and use less gas. If you're considering an electric mower for a smaller property, check with your local government for trade-in programs (like this recent one in Chicago) that let you swap a gas-powered mower for a less-polluting new battery-powered one.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: We tested more than 70 mowers and tractors (including zero-turn-radius mowers) in time for the early mowing season, but you can still find models in stores if you need to shop now. Here's advice on mower types, mowing safety, emissions, and robotic mowers. View Ratings of push and self-propelled mowers and tractors and our repair-or-replace charts (available to subscribers).

Grill purchase turns into a nightmare

Buying a gas grill shouldn't leave you fuming, but that's what happened to one homeowner.

In "A Slow Burn Over a New Gas Grill," in the August 3 edition of The New York Times, Vincent M. Mallozzi wrote about the trouble he had when he bought a new gas grill and tried to convert it to a natural-gas cooker.

His saga included a litany of incorrect parts, aggravating trips to several retailers to search for their replacements, escalating costs, a frustrating phone call to the manufacturer, and lots of waiting  . . . and then some more waiting.

Mallozzi's woes can probably be chalked up to a less-than-knowledgeable salesperson, poor customer service from the manufacturer, and the fact that the proper conversion kit was not available. (If you've experienced your own grill-inspired woes, share your story in our gas-grills forum.)

To keep yourself out of a similar grilling grind when shopping for a new model, read what our experts have to say about choosing a grill, discover the notable features, and look over our Ratings (available to subscribers). Remember, grill prices should come down as summer turns to fall.

If you're looking for a natural-gas grill, buy one of those if available, not a model you have to convert. If you're installing a conversion kit, be sure to carefully follow all instructions.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Use our buying advice to find the grill of your dreams, try our easy-to-prepare recipes for grilled pizza, short ribs, chicken with rosemary, and other delicious fare.

Tip of the Day: Avoid accidents when grilling

Lots of us cook on a gas or charcoal- or wood-burning grill during summertime entertaining. Apparently some of us are spending too much time talking about our golf games, the presidential race, or a recipe for a killer dry rub instead of paying attention to the fire—more than 5,000 people went to the emergency room for grilling-related injuries in 2007, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Burns were the most common injury.

To avoid grilling accidents and keep yourself out of the ER, follow the advice below, compiled from our own experts, the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association trade group, and the CPSC:

• Check hoses and fittings for gas leaks when you first use your gas grill each year and a couple of times during outdoor-cooking season. Mix a small amount of dishwashing liquid and water in a spray bottle. Spray the soapy solution over connections and along the hose. Turn on the gas at the tank but leave the burners off. Bubbling at connections or along the hose means you need to replace the hose or fittings or possibly tighten a loose connection.
• Always grill outside and never in an enclosed area like the garage. Carbon monoxide could build up and make you sick or even asphyxiate you.
• Empty the grease pan, tray, or receptacle to decrease the risk of fire. Replace it after cleaning.
• Cook in a low-traffic area and away from any combustible surfaces. Sweep up dry brush and leaves. If your home has vinyl siding, be sure to keep a hot grill far away or it can cause the siding to melt and sag.
• Keep young kids and pets away from the grill when you're cooking and even after you're done—a grill can stay hot for up to an hour after you've cooked the last kebab. And never move a hot grill.
• Do not start a charcoal or wood fire with gasoline, and don't add lighter fluid after the fire has started; the flame can follow the fluid to its source—that being the container you're holding in your hand.
• When lighting a gas grill, keep the lid open to prevent gas from building up and causing what the HPBA calls a "flash off."
• Cook with long-handled utensils and flame-retardant mitts.
• Control flare-ups to keep yourself and others from getting burned. On a gas grill, lower the temperature. For a charcoal- or wood-burning model, raise the grid or evenly spread the coals.
• Put out a grease fire with baking soda and have a fire extinguisher on hand. If you don't have a fire extinguisher , use bucket of sand or douse the fire with water from your garden hose.
• Let ashes from a charcoal or a wood-burning grill sit for at least 48 hours before you throw them out.

Q&A: Are synthetic materials any good for outdoor decks?

We desperately need to replace our rotted-out wood deck. Are synthetic decking materials a good choice?

While most people who put in a deck use real wood, some synthetic planks can offer good looks that will last—with less maintenance. Check out our latest report and watch our video (right) to learn about synthetic decking materials.

Also read about the different decking types, check your outdoor space to make sure its safe, and find out which fastener to use.

Tip of the Day: Safely apply herbicides

The best way to keep your lawn free of weeds is to fertilize, water, and mow it properly. You can also make your lawn more resilient to weeds (and drought) by allowing it to grow longer. A healthy lawn will resist weeds without your having to apply chemical herbicides.

But if you're going to use herbicides to deal with broadleaf plantain, crabgrass, dandelions (shown), oxalis, and countless other weeds, you'll need to apply it properly. To identify common lawn weeds, use our interactive guide. Keep in mind that spot application of herbicides will require the use of less chemicals, which could save you money and be better for the environment.

Herbicides are classified according to their use or mode of action:

Nonselective herbicides like Roundup kill all kinds of plants.

Selective herbicides like Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max Weed Killer for Lawns Concentrate kill some plants but not others. In your lawn, selective herbicides kill dicots (which include many common lawn weeds), plants with branching veins in variously shaped leaves.

Postemergent herbicides such as Roundup and Weed-B-Gon kill growing weeds and may be either selective or not.

Preemergent herbicides prevent some weed seeds from even germinating. They are typically used in early spring to prevent crabgrass. Most often these herbicides are combined with a fertilizer, as in Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer.

To learn how to safely and properly use granular herbicides and concentrated liquid sprays, read our expert advice.

Honda lawn mowers recalled

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission on July 9, 2008, announced the recall of abut 20,5000 Honda lawn mowers due to a laceration hazard. The rear shield on the affected mowers can break off, possibly allowing debris to be thrown toward the person mowing. As of the recall date, no injuries have been reported.

The mowers, made in the United States by American Honda Motor Corp. of Torrance, California, have the model number HRX217(K)2HXA or HRX217(K)2HMA with a serial number MAGA-1500001 through MAGA-1520532. You'll find the model and serial numbers on a label on the upper rear of the mower deck. The mowers, $900, were sold at Honda dealers and Home Depot stores nationwide from October 2007 to June 2008.

If you own a recalled mower, stop using it immediately and call your local Honda dealer to arrange for a free repair. For more information, call Honda (800-426-7701, 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday) or go to Honda's recalls page.

Essential information: Get more information about electric and gas mowers and lawn tractors, read our latest mowers report, and use the expert advice in our Complete Lawn & Yard Guide to help your lawn look its best.

 

These mowers prove "reel" disappointments

"I can't take the way the mower's blades only cut some of the grass. Each row requires at least two passes. Whereas I initially loved the mower's simplicity, I'm now envious of the power of the self-propelled mowers. I'm jealous that my power-mowing neighbor doesn't need to carbo-load the night before a big mow. Grass with more than six days of growth requires a cool-down with a sports recovery drink. I can't help wondering when Al Gore last mowed a lawn."

That's how Jenny Sokol, a columnist with The Orange County Register, described her experience with a reel lawn mower in "It's Not Easy Being Green With a Push Reel Mower."

We share not only Sokol's desire to reduce her carbon footprint but, sadly, also her disappointment in reel mowers. As we found in our latest report on lawn mowers and tractors, reel mowers don't do a particularly good job cutting grass.

One 15-inch model proved difficult to push (not a good trait for a reel mower), and a 20-inch reel mower simply didn't cut some areas. Another 15-inch model did cut evenly, but its maximum height is too low for most grasses when the weather turns hot. Get the details of our testing in "Reel Mowers: A Disappointing Trio" (available to subscribers).

If you have a small yard, a far better green mower move would be to buy an electric model. This type of mower is easier to use and maintain than gas-powered models and creates no exhaust emissions at the machine. You'll find details on three corded and five cordless electric push mowers in our Ratings (available to subscribers).

Also, learn about lawn-mower-exchange programs—you swap your gas model for an electric mower—and check out the Black & Decker CMM1200, an Energy Star-qualified electric mower.—Steven H. Saltzman

Essential information: Use our Complete Lawn & Yard Guide to keep your property in tiptop shape this summer.

Class action against ChoiceDek maker, distributor

Our latest report on decking materials found that several composite-decking products were especially prone to mildew growth.

One composite product, ChoiceDek, reportedly has faced such mold- and mildew-growth problems that a class-action claim targeted Advanced Environmental Recycling Technologies (AERT) and Weyerhaeuser, respectively the manufacturer and distributor of ChoiceDek, which is sold only at Lowe's. (The firms representing the plaintiffs are also investigating Trex, the biggest player in composite decking, for acknowledged "surface defects" in some products manufactured from 2003 to mid-2006.)

Composite decking, developed in the early 1990s, is made of wood and either virgin or recycled plastic. An attraction for homeowners is a woodlike appearance without the periodic refinishing that wood decks require. Some composite decking is treated with UV and mildew inhibitors, although in our tests even unfinished wood as a category resisted mildew growth better than composite materials.

The plaintiffs in the class action include owners of ChoiceDek products originally purchased from 2004 through 2007, a group estimated in the tens of thousands. The suit charges that ChoiceDek decking develops "persistent fungal and mold growth" even when installed and maintained as directed. In addition, it claims the defendants knew of the problem, misrepresented the decking by using such terms as "virtually maintenance free" (found in the ChoiceDek FAQ), and worded its limited lifetime warranty to exclude the specific problems experienced by the plaintiffs.

(The Consumer Reports testing photo above shows ChoiceDek subjected to a number of different testing methods in three locations. The decking in the left column depicts unexposed material stored in our lab; the middle column, after one year in a humid environment (Florida); and the right, one year in an arid location (Arizona). The five rows from top to bottom represent the following conditions: unwashed; washed with water and a brush; washed with OxiClean and a brush; washed with Behr wood cleaner; and cleaned with a pressure washer. The spots and discoloration in the middle column are mildew.)

Plaintiffs' experiences noted in the complaint describe decking that within a year developed noticeably large gray and black spots and other discoloration. The growth in the four cases noted reappeared soon after cleaning—even in two instances when AERT sent professional cleaners to do the job.

While both AERT and Weyerhaeuser denied the allegations in the class action, they recently initiated a settlement. Call AERT at 800-951-5117 or 479-756-7400 if you have a concern about ChoiceDek products installed at your home. An AERT spokesperson for the company says the pending solution "will resolve all customer-care matters."

Stay tuned for the settlement terms, which we'll post once any deals are struck.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: To find the best decking, see how a particular material we tested performed in our Ratings of decking (available to subscribers). Also learn how to choose a decking material, read about the different decking types, and keep your deck safe and in tiptop condition. Check out our brand-new Home Improvement Guide interactive, which offers buying advice on appliances, tools, and building materials for every area of your home.

Keep your baby safe at home

Many of the accidents that injure or kill more than 2.5 million children age 4 and under in the United States each year could be prevented if adults were to take the time to safeguard their homes.

If you have a baby at home or are expecting, learn how to make your home a safety zone well before your baby starts crawling.

Read our general safety tips, watch our video (right), and follow our expert advice for these areas:

• Baby's room
• Basement, driveway, and garage