Tip of the Day: Get rid of roof algae, which can damage shingles

Rooftop gardens have been touted as a type of cool roof that can help reduce energy use and costs. But one plant life you don't want to see on your roof is Gloeocapsa magma, a blackish algae that thrives on moisture seems to have an affinity for material used in some roofing products. When left unchecked, it can damage shingles.

This algae creeps its way upward on roofs, gradually turning shingles dark brown or black. It's easy to spot along some east-west streets with lots of trees, and sometimes it's present house after house.

My wife and I recently noticed Gloeocapsa magma algae on our 10-plus-year-old roof (shown), as well as lichens, which look like greenish-white splotches made with a paintbrush. Fortunately, we didn't have any other growth, such as moss, which can dig in beneath the shingles and upgrade the buildup from two- to three-dimensional.

I looked into some DIY solutions to eliminate the algae, such as oxygen bleach. But the safer, more-prudent move—especially with bursitis in one of my shoulders—was to hire a pro who'd do the job at a reasonable price and not use the chlorine-bleach solution the Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association recommends (PDF), which can damage vegetation around the house. (Note: If plants and grass are watered before applying the bleach solution and if the bleach solution is applied correctly, vegetation shouldn't be harmed by the cleaning.)

Pricing for a good roof cleaning, according to Baltimore's My Clean Roof, is based on many factors, including roof height, roof pitch and angles (not all roofs are walkable), and the algae species involved. We got a wide range of cleaning quotes, from a few hundred dollars up to $1,200.

We also spoke with one fellow who wanted to pressure-wash the roof (not recommended), and another who wanted to install copper or zinc strips without washing first. While using the strips would provide a long-lasting solution to the algae problem, the $1,500 price seemed way too high.

In the end, we found a roof-shampooing franchise operation, which quoted us a price of $350. We agreed to the price this past Monday evening, and the work was done two days later. (The cleaned roof is shown, right.) The company even threw in cleaning the siding of the two front dormers and gave a one-year warranty on the work.—Ed Perratore | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you need a new roof, read our latest report on roofing materials and find the best product for your home in the ratings (available to subscribers).

Tip of the Day: Find the right caulk for your home project

As you might have already encountered in the caulk aisle at your local home center, there's a dizzying array of caulking products in tubes, cartridges, and aerosol cans. All those choices could make finding the right caulk for the job a hassle. The chart below covers the major categories of caulk and can help you find the best material for your project.

Why use caulk? When the right type of caulk is applied properly, it can protect your home from the elements and make it more energy efficient or prevent leaks from the shower or tub. What's more, our stories on five key home repairs and smart ways to cut your energy use reveal how important caulk can be.

Modern caulk formulations are relatively inexpensive and many are easy to apply, simple to paint over, and a snap to clean up. Althogh the 30 percent federal tax credit on purchases of weatherization materials doesn't apply to caulking, state incentives are often available.

Ed Pollack, a team leader for residential-energy-efficiency research at the U.S. Department of Energy, recommends you use water-based foam sealants since they're easier to clean up. And he urges you to start caulking from the outside first. "You want to seal openings in your home's exterior that could allow water and cause mold or ruin the caulking you've done to interior spaces."—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Consider weatherizing your attic to save money and boost comfort at home year-round. Our Energy Saving & Green Living guide offers many ways to weatherize your home and make it more efficient. And the Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs provides illustrated instructions for key do-it-yourself weatherization projects, and with the purchase of the book you get a free 30-day trial of ConsumerReports.org, including access to the ratings.

Type of Caulk	Best Use(s)	Pros	Cons	Price
Acrylic tub and tile	To seal kitchen and bathroom fixtures.	Flexible; mildew resistant; cleans up with water.	Not paintable; not as durable as 100% silicone.	$4 and up per tube
Butyl rubber	To seal and fill around windows and skylights and around flashings and in gutters to seal dissimilar materials (glass, metal, plastic, wood, and concrete). More flexible (can stretch in multiple directions) than silicone. Good in areas that experience high temperature variations. Formulations with with asphalt are best for roofing repairs.	More flexible (can stretch in multiple directions) than silicone; can be painted after curing one week. Good in areas that experience high temperature variations. Formulations with asphalt are best for roofing repairs.	Does not adhere well to painted surfaces; shrinkage varies; might require two applications. Can be toxic; precautions must be taken and requires solvent cleanup.	$3.50 and up per tube
Concrete and mortar repair	To repair cracks in concrete and damaged masonry and mortar.	Can be shaped to fit before drying; remains flexible, cleans up with water, dries to color of concrete mortar or can be painted.	Not recommended for horizontal surfaces where water could accumulate.	$4.50 and up per tube
Latex	To seal gaps in exterior walls and plug holes and fill gaps in interior walls and woodwork before painting.	Inexpensive; takes paint well;, can be sanded; easy to work with; cleans up with water.	Will crack eventually where temperatures vary greatly (acrylic latex formulations are more durable); needs to be painted when used outdoors; won't adhere to metal.	$1.50 and up per tube
Oil or resin-based	To seal gaps in exterior walls.	Inexpensive; will bond to most surfaces.	Cracks after a few years; much less durable than elastomeric (silicone, latex, or acrylic) caulks.	$1 and up per tube
100% silicone	To fill around pipes and vents and building structures made of nonporous materials and plumbing fixtures. Not as effective on wood or masonry.	Very durable and flexible; doesn't crack.	Expensive; limited colors; can't be painted or sanded, gives off strong odor when curing; solvent required for cleanup.	$4.50 and up per tube
Siliconized latex	Same uses as 100% silicone, except not on plumbing fixtures.	Very durable and flexible; rarely cracks, many colors available; cleans up with water; less expensive than 100% silicone.	Can't be sanded.	$3.50 and up per tube
Spray foam (polyurethane-based)	To seal around window and door frames or to fill cracks and holes.	Expands more than latex and fills a greater area than caulking alone.	Expands after application, so it can warp door and window frames; can't resist UV light; must be painted for exterior use; very difficult to clean up after use.	$5.40 and up per can (but one can fills as much space as many tubes of caulking)
Spray foam (water-based)	Around window and door frames or to fill cracks and holes.	Does not expand as much as polyurethane foam; can be shaped while wet; easy cleanup with water; will not cause windows or doors to bind.	Does not adhere as tightly to materials as urethane; takes longer to cure (up to 24 hours).	$5 and up per can (but one can can fill as much space as many tubes of caulking)

Tip of the Day: Find the right wines to serve for Thanksgiving and the holidays

Do a Web search for "best wines for Thanksgiving"—or "for Christmas" or "for the holidays"—and you'll find an overwhelming number of results, and some of that information might prove more confusing than edifying.

Wine choices for Thanksgiving and end-of-year celebrations are all over the map. Some folks swear by a robust Zinfandel for turkey dinners; others think a versatile Riesling is right for holiday repasts.

Whether you're an oenophile with your go-to favorites and a sense of adventure or a novice looking for some solid wine advice, we can't predict which wines you'll like. But as you'll see in our new "Holiday Wine Bargains," there are plenty of reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Zinfandel) and whites (Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc) that will enhance your holiday meals without breaking your budget.

Before you head to the store to shop, visit our wine buyer's guide for shopping tips and a wine glossary as well as expert advice on proper serving temperatures for wine and suggested food pairings. e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Keep your wine in tiptop shape by storing it in a wine refrigerator/cellar and find the best corkscrews to open your bottles.

Weekend Project: The best ways to deal with leaves

Whether your yard is covered with leaves or you're still waiting for them to carpet your property, you're probably looking for the easiest, most-effective way to deal with fall cleanup. As you'll see in The Great Rake-Off: Man vs. Machine video, using a leaf blower can provide faster, more-efficient leaf-wrangling than raking.

To help you find the right leaf blower for your needs, check out our free buyer's guide and watch our new video buyer's guide to this outdoor power equipment (right), which details the pros and cons of the four major blower types and the features to look for.

Corded electric models have their upsides—they tend to be lighter and quieter than gas-powered models and don't produce emissions at the point of use their own—and the best electric blowers can rival gas machines in performance. But as Senior Ed Perratore knows all too well, the power cord can limit your mobility. Ed traded up to a handheld gas-powered model, but since he's got a bum shoulder, he's considering a backpack blower, which distributes the weight more evenly than a handheld.

No matter which kind of blower you use, nozzle type is key. Our tests have shown that a round, reduced opening is better for cleaning embedded lawn debris and that a wider, flat opening works better when moving large leaf piles.

A final tip: If you do go the raking route, follow this expert advice to avoid injury and minimize soreness.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Check out our "Fall Lawn and Yard Checklist" for details on tending to all facets of your property, and keep your power equipment in shape with our "End-of-Season Lawn-Equipment Guide." You'll find other tips on our Fall Cleanup Guide page.

Tip of the Day: Drain the carburetor bowl on your lawn mower to protect the engine

As we covered in "Is Fuel With an Increased Level of Ethanol a Problem for Small Gas Engines?" there's growing concern over the effects that gasoline-ethanol blends like E10—that's 90 percent gasoline and 10 percent ethanol—might have on small, nonroad engines on lawn mowers and tractors and other outdoor power equipment.

If you're concerned about the possible effects ethanol might have on your gas-powered mower or other equipment that will sit for long periods in storage—including a string trimmer or leaf blower—remove the remaining fuel from the tank and then empty the carburetor bowl before you stow gear for the winter. The simple project will help keep your gear in good working condition.

Even if you've run your equipment dry as part of your usual end-of-season maintenance steps, some fuel can remain in the bowl of the carburetor. If you don't drain the bowl, you might see some of the telltale white residue and related corrosion associated with ethanol blends. Four-cycle engines in particular seem prone to the buildup, although two-cycle engines can also suffer from the problem.

To empty the carburetor bowl in your mower:
• Run the engine dry, then let the machine fully cool.
• Locate the carburetor bowl. It's a cylindrically shaped device with one or two bolts on the bottom (shown). If there are two bolts, the off-center one is a drain, which you can use to get rid of any fuel without removing the bowl; place a container beneath the carburetor and remove the bolt. Any fuel present should trickle out.
• On some engines, such as the Tecumseh carburetor shown, the single bolt is for removing the carburetor bowl itself. Also while holding a container beneath, remove the bolt, pull off the bowl, and drain it. Wipe out the inside of the bowl.
• Whether or not you need to remove the bowl, it's a simple task to drain it and tighten everything back up.—Ed Perratore | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you're in the market for a new snow blower, read our latest report on single- and two-stage gas and electric models and updated free buyer's guide and ratings (available to subscribers).

Tip of the Day: When ordering appliances, carefully check the specs

Carpenters live by the adage, Measure twice. Cut once. The same advice can apply to ordering appliances and equipment for a kitchen remodel, says one New Jersey homeowner who recently undertook a top-to-bottom makeover of the 300-square-foot kitchen at her 1960s Cape Cod house.

Because Helaine W.'s new kitchen includes a bank of windows on the exterior wall, the plans called for an island vent hood—a wall-mounted hood with through-the-wall venting wouldn't fit the design. What's more, the hood had to be 24 inches deep or less so it wouldn't overhang the counter.

To find the right-size hood, Helaine, her kitchen designer, and a salesperson from a local appliance store searched the Web sites of several major manufacturers and found the Franke FDF 367 1XS 36-inch-wide island hood. The Franke site indicated a depth of a little more than 19 inches, ideal for the application. An order was placed for the unit.

When the hood arrived four weeks later, the contractor notified Helaine that the Franke FDF 367 1XS was deeper than expected—in fact, it was more than 26 inches deep. Helaine contacted her appliance salesperson, who subsequently learned from Franke that the company doesn't make a 19-inch-deep island hood. It turns out that the Franke Web site showed the wrong hood and included inaccurate specs. (Franke has since updated its site to reflect the correct specs.)
 
The project was too far along to accommodate a different vent hood, so Helaine, her designer, and the appliance salesperson researched other options. They found a 23-inch-deep Miele island hood, which at $3,500 was $1,400 more than the Franke. The Miele hood was in stock and was delivered within a couple of days. The salesperson agreed to make up about two-thirds of the price difference.
 
"I'm not sure what the lesson is here," says Helaine. "Perhaps there's a new adage: Never rely on the product specs you see online. Or maybe you need to measure every appliance or piece of equipment yourself to be sure they're the right size."

With the kitchen remodel completed except for a few items on the punch list, the new hood is in place and works well. And since it's the right size, Helaine and her family don't have to worry about banging their heads on the hood when they cook. e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Check out or free buying guide to vent hoods. And if you're planning a full-scale kitchen remodel or are in the market for new appliances, use our Kitchen-Planning Guide, which features links to all the information you need to save money on and find the best kitchen equipment, countertops, cabinets, and flooring for your kitchen, and read our new report on buying appliances.

Tip of the Day: Be safe when grilling

Your grill might have served you well so far this summer, but a little bit of servicing now will ensure safe and effective cooking and protect its looks far into the fall and beyond. Here's how:

If your grill has become hard to light or the flame isn't as strong as it could be, check for blockages in the tubes that lead to the burner. Clear obstructions by using a wire or pipe cleaner and pushing debris through to the main part of the burner. Spiders love to build webs and nests in these areas; be sure to check for these, especially if you've just returned from vacation. You'll also want to inspect the hoses for cracks, holes, and sharp bends and replace it if necessary. Then do the following:

• Check the grills for gas leaks by mixing a small amount of dishwashing liquid and water in a spray bottle. Spray the hose and connections, and with the hose connected to the propane tank, open the gas. If bubbles appear, you need to replace your hose or fix a loose connection.

• Have your grill serviced if the burner flames are not blue. A yellow flame indicates clogged air inlets or that burners must be adjusted. 

• Clean the drip pan and remove the grates and burners and clean the firebox; grease and food often collect there.

• Clean both sides of the grates before cooking and after, too. Use a stiff wire brush, or a nylon brush for porcelain-coated, cast-iron grates. (Hint: To keep food from sticking on grates and making them harder to clean, fold two paper towels into a pad and dip in a little bowl of neutral-flavored vegetable oil, like canola oil. After you've preheated the grill and right before you cook, draw the pad across grates using a pair of tongs.)

• Examine the propane tank. Heavy rust, dents, or greenish-orange corrosion means you need a new tank.

If a fire does break out and you can safely turn off the gas, shut it down, the National Fire Protection Association advises. If flames are contained in a grill, close the lid to smother the flames. Douse small flare-ups with a spray of water, a bucket of sand, or the hose or fire extinguisher. If a fire breaks out and moves beyond your grill, call your fire department immediately and keep away from the grill.—Kimberly Janeway | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Find out how to avoid the five most common grilling mistakes and watch the video above for more grilling advice.

Tip of the Day: How to store fresh fruits and vegetables

High-quality fresh food is in right now. First Lady Michelle Obama has planted a fruit-and-vegetable garden on the South Lawn of the White House; government incentives are luring supermarkets stocked with fresh produce to low-income neighborhoods; and Michael Pollan's In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto—perhaps best summarized by its "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants." rules—is on best-seller lists.

And, of course, with summer here, your kitchen is likely to see a lot more fruits and vegetables as the bounty reaches supermarkets and farm stands. (Find a farmers market in your state.) Eating abundant amounts of fresh food can be more healthful but can also lead to a kitchen full of rotting perishables if you buy more than you can prepare and eat before all those locally grown fruits and vegetables head south. In fact, produce is the most thrown-out food in U.S. households.

People who follow a "Vegan Before 6"—VB6—regimen might be among those who face fresh-food-storage issues. Food writer Mark Bittman coined the term. He says he noshes on fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and legumes during the day (before 6 p.m.) and eats meat—or anything else he craves—for dinner.

To keep spoilage to a minimum and avoid wasting money, follow the food-storage advice here. Note that temperature patterns vary in refrigerators, so get to know the colder and warmer zones in yours to maximize freshness.

In the refrigerator, keep . . .
Apples in a cool zone away from strong-smelling foods, so they won't absorb odors. If the refrigerator is jammed, you can also store apples in a cool, dark place.
Beets in the crisper; lop off greens before refrigerating and use them in a salad or cook them as you would spinach and other greens.
Berries in a warmer zone of the refrigerator, unwashed, in a dry, covered container.
Broccoli in the crisper.
Celery in the crisper.
Cherries unwashed, in a plastic bag, in a warmer zone of the refrigerator.
Corn with husks on, in a warmer zone of the refrigerator.
Grapes unwashed in a plastic bag or their plastic clamshell container, in a cool zone; pick out any spoiled grapes, since one bad one can spoil the bunch.
Green beans in an airtight container in a moderate zone; don't snap off ends until they're ready to be used.
Leafy greens in a salad spinner (if you have one and have room in the fridge) after washing or in the crisper. Otherwise, keep washed greens in a plastic bag lined with a clean cloth or paper towels; loosely tie top of bag to maintain moisture.
Melons, once they've ripened, in a warmer zone of the refrigerator. Wash the outside of a melon before cutting to avoid the spread of bacteria.
Mushrooms unwashed, in a paper bag, in a warmer zone of the refrigerator. Never store them in plastic, which traps moisture and leads to slime.
Peppers in a plastic bag in a warmer zone of the refrigerator. Leave them whole, and unwashed.
Yellow squash/zucchini in a plastic bag in a warmer zone of the refrigerator. Leave them unwashed, and use within two or three days of purchase.

Outside of the refrigerator, keep . . .
Avocados in a brown-paper bag; add an apple or banana to the bag to accelerate ripening.
Bananas in a fruit bowl on the counter.
Onions in a dark, dry, well-ventilated place. Store them away from potatoes, since they can absorb the potatoes moisture and spoilage-inducing ethylene gas.
Stone fruits, including nectarines, peaches, and plums, in a brown-paper bag at room temperature to speed ripening. Refrigerate once ripe.
Potatoes in a cool place, away from light. Don't refrigerate, since the moisture will encourage sprouting.
Tomatoes always at room temperature but not in direct sunlight.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you're shopping for a new refrigerator, read our free buying advice and check the ratings (available to subscribers) to find out which models are the most energy efficient and do the best job at controlling temperatures. Also, learn about the real capacity of refrigerators.

Tip of the Day: Find the proper temperature for serving wine and learn about wine cellars

I was at a wine dinner last night where we drank a variety of French red wines. Given the wide range of grapes in the 10 wines—primarily Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, with some Carignan and even a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir—and the somewhat warm, humid evening, I was wondering about the proper serving temperatures for the wines. Should we give some a bit of a chill? Do we need to decant any?

There are no hard-and-fast rules associated with proper serving temperature. As we note in "How to Serve Wine," optimal pouring temperatures vary by wine type and characteristics. The body of wine plays as big of a role if not more of one in determining serving temperature.

Use the chart below as a guide, and visit our wine page to find ratings and recommendations (available to subscribers) of good-value reds and whites.—Steven H. Saltzman | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Read about wine cellars/chillers and corkscrews.

 

Tip of the Day: Cut your exposure to arsenic in pressure-treated lumber

If you have a deck, playground set, or other outdoor structure that was built before 2004 with pressure-treated lumber, you should pay attention to the new advice from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission on how to mitigate hazards associated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) used to preserve wood.

As covered in this article on carcinogens and pressure-treated lumber, CCA, used for decades to make wood resistant to insects and rot, was found to contain known carcinogens. While the federal government did not order a recall of CCA-treated lumber, the outdoor-lumber industry voluntarily halted its production for residential use at the beginning of 2004. Also at the time, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency acknowledged the importance of reducing exposure to CCA.

The EPA and CPSC have since completed a study of stains and sealants. "The new information is that we want people using oil-based or water-based deep penetrating stains about once a year to help people trap the arsenic into CCA-treated lumber that is still out there," says Scott Wolfson, the CPSC's deputy director of public affairs.

Our ratings of deck stains (available to subscribers) include semitransparent stains like the ones Wolfson recommends. Be sure to follow proper safety precautions when working with CCA-treated wood.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums

Essential information: Even if your deck doesn't contain CCA-treated lumber, you should perform an annual safety check and clean underneath it. Also check out our report on decking materials.