Q&A: Can an oven's slow-cook mode do as good a job as a slow cooker?

A new oven I'm considering has a slow-cook mode. Is this feature better than my trusty Crock-Pot?

To see how well the slow-cook mode on an oven or range compares to slow cookers, as part of our latest report on slow cookers we pitted the GE Profile PB975SM electric smoothtop range with dual ovens (one of which has a slow-cook mode), $1,950, against 15 electronic and mechanically controlled electric slow cookers.

For this test, we slow-cooked chicken wings, pulled pork, spare ribs, orange chicken, and apple brown Betty in the lower oven of the 30-inch PB975SM (shown) and in each slow cooker. Here's what we found:

• Instructions for the oven recommend using the beef setting whenever you don’t know the cooking time for a given dish. But with the beef setting for an apple brown Betty, the dessert was overdone after 2¾ hours, much longer than the 4 hours it needs in a typical countertop slow cooker. So you’d have to adjust cooking times and recipes to prevent overcooking and burning.

• Overall, the oven cooked much more quickly than any slow cooker, though that’s not necessarily an advantage when slowness is the goal. In fact, some chicken wings got burned when we cooked them for the time indicated in the recipe. Still, the pulled pork from the oven was tender and flavorful and the spare ribs were falling-off-the-bone tender.

• Like the slow cookers in our ratings, the GE Profile’s slow-cook feature goes into warm mode automatically once the cooking time has elapsed. The oven has programs for slow-cooking beef, poultry, pork, and stew, settings not found on most of the slow cookers.

Regarding energy usage, the slow cooker comes out ahead. (Energy use was calculated based on running an average slower cooker and the oven for 1 hour.) A typical slow cooker will use less energy than the slow-cook mode on the GE range. Note that for a dish that’s done in less than four hours using the oven’s slow-cook mode, the energy use might be identical to that of a slow cooker.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: See our ratings of slow cookers (available to subscribers) to find the best model for your home.

Q&A: Is it a worth the extra cost to buy windows filled with argon gas?

The replacement windows I'm considering buying come with the option of using argon gas to boost their energy efficiency. Should I spend more to get the argon gas?

It is generally not a good investment to replace windows just for energy-efficiency purposes. But if you need to replace irreparable windows or are undertaking a home remodel, then consider the incremental costs of higher-efficiency replacement windows over models without such features as specialty gas fills, including argon, or low-e coatings.

Large incremental costs for these options generally outweigh their benefit. Argon, for instance, typically increases the insulating R-value of a window by only half a point. (Insulated-glass windows, also called double-pane glass, typically have an R-value of around 2.0 to 3.0. R-value is the measurement of thermal resistance; the higher the number, the more efficient the window. Learn more about the energy performance of windows.)

This small increase in insulating value from the argon gas will get you slight energy savings, but the additional initial cost could significantly extend the payback time for the windows. What's more, the argon does little or nothing to reduce transmission of ultraviolet and infrared radiation. UV light from the sun can damage your furnishings but, more important, infrared radiation transfers heat into or out of a home. Studies have shown that windows with a low-e coating can measurably reduce solar heat gain during cooling season (assuming you do not draw curtains or blinds anyway). However, homes in cold climates tend not to see a benefit from this option.

It's worth noting that many manufacturers of high-quality windows, including all those we tested for our latest report on windows, now use argon-filled glass as the standard for their windows. In fact, some companies might charge you more if you want windows with glass that provides less insulation, including models with only air-filled glass or with no low-e coating.

Essential information: Learn how to choose the best windows, understand the different window types and designs, and find an expert installer.

Q&A: Should I buy a lithium-ion-powered cordless drill?

I’m considering finally replacing my trusty corded drill with a new cordless model. Does it pay to spend more for a lithium-ion tool?

We’ve seen more makers of cordless drills and cordless tool kits abandoning nickel-cadmium batteries for lithium-ion, or Li-Ion, cells, which promise lighter weight and/or longer run times. How you plan on using the tool would play a critical role in that decision. If you’re an infrequent, light-duty user, it probably wouldn’t make sense to pay a premium for a Li-Ion-powered drill. If you use the tool frequently for heavy-duty tasks, it might make sense to buy a Li-Ion drill.

But our latest tests, in the November 2008 issue of Consumer Reports, reveal that you might need to follow different charging and use patterns with Li-Ion batteries; otherwise they might not last as long as you’d expect. What’s more, Li-Ion replacement batteries are more expensive than the nickel-cadmium ones and can cost more than $100 apiece.

Read our new review of cordless tools to drill down to the details on lithium-ion tools, use our buying advice to find the right model, and use our tips for better drilling.

Essential information: Watch our exclusive videos on cordless tools, including pieces on how we test drills (right), basic shopping advice, and a tool kit with a problematic saw.

Q&A: Are there any tax credits for installing a residential solar-energy system?

Hoping to save on our energy bills, we're considering installing a solar water heater at our home. Does the federal government offer any tax breaks for these systems?

Given the high upfront expense of solar photovoltaic (PV) systems and solar water heaters, it's no wonder you're interested in financial incentives to alleviate some of the cost. Federal tax credits for PV systems and solar water heaters do exist, though you'll need to move quickly because they expire this December 31. (OCTOBER 2008 UPDATE: The $700 billion Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008 extended and expanded the tax credits for residential solar systems. Read more in this post from the Consumer Reports Money blog.)

Advocates of solar energy fear the end of the tax credits will discourage adoption of these promising technologies. "If the federal solar credits expire as planned, it will definitely put a huge damper on the market, and we'll see a large drop in installations," says Larry Sherwood, a consultant to the Interstate Renewable Energy Council, a nonprofit that promotes renewable energy.

Federal tax credits for solar power have helped double the number of commercial and residential installations of PV and solar-water-heater systems since taking effect in 2006, according to the new "U.S. Solar Market Trends" report by Sherwood. Rising energy prices and state incentives have also played a role in spurring the market, particularly in states where those incentives have the biggest payoff.

California, with the largest state incentive program for PV systems, dominates the market with 69 percent of all installations. Similarly, Hawaii, with its generous incentives, accounts for half of the solar-water-heater market. (Read this blog post for more on solar water heaters in Hawaii.)

Still, most Americans own neither type of system since they remain prohibitively expensive. Check out this listing of state incentives for solar power; select "Solar (All)" in the drop-down menu. You'll find more information on renewable-energy incentives on the same site.

A PV system capable of fully powering the average U.S. home costs $64,000 to $80,000 installed, says the Solar Energy Industries Association trade group. While much cheaper, solar water heaters still cost $5,000 to $7,000, including installation. Such steep prices make renewable-energy incentives attractive.

The existing federal incentives allow you to take a 30 percent tax credit up to $2,000 for the purchase and installation of a PV system or solar water heater. But even that's not enough, says the SEIA, which is pushing for an eight-year extension of the federal credits and to eliminate the existing $2,000 limit for residential buyers.

Some progress toward that goal has been made. Last May, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the Renewable Energy and Job Creation Act of 2008, which extends the credits for eight years and also doubles the cap to $4,000 for residential buyers. But after eight attempts, the Senate has failed to pass a bill of its own.

Given the need for more secure, clean-energy technologies, we shouldn't let the sun set on these important incentives.—Kristi Wiedemann, Science and Policy Analyst, GreenerChoices.org

Essential information: Find out how solar and other renewable-energy technologies are greening the workforce, get the latest buzz on backyard wind power, and learn about tax credits and rebates for energy-efficient appliances. Also read what Consumers Union has to say about the hidden price you pay for energy.—Kristi Wiedemann, Science and Policy Analyst, GreenerChoices.org

Q&A: Who's responsible when my neighbor's tree falls on my roof?

During a recent storm, a branch from my neighbor's tree fell onto my roof. Who's responsible for the repairs and cleanup?

Unfortunately for roofs everywhere (not to mention shiny new sedans in driveways), this is an all-too-common query. In the September 2008 issue of Consumer Reports, we report that trees are among the most common causes of neighbor disputes. Couple that with the extreme weather now gripping the nation, and that's a lot of fallen tree limbs setting off some serious border wars.

So who has to pony up for the damages? The answer—as it often is where the law's concerned—is, that depends. If your neighbor knew, or should have known, that the branch was unsound, he or she is guilty of negligence and is thus responsible.

But unless the neighbor is a forest ranger or tree surgeon, proving negligence can be tricky. You might argue in court that the lack of foliage or visibly diseased bark provides clear proof that the limb in question was unsound. But the judge may not hear that defense, which is why neighbor disputes are best resolved outside the courts.

"You don't control the outcome," says Jonathan Rosenthal, executive director of Alternative Dispute Resolution Programs for the District Court of Maryland. "It's entirely up to the judge, who may only listen to certain evidence." Rosenthal (like everyone we interviewed for the September report) recommends mediation, in which a neutral third party helps feuding neighbors figure out a fair solution.                

But back to the tree branch on your roof. Culpability aside, most homeowners' insurance policies cover damage done by a neighbor's tree. After compensating you, the company may turn around and sue your neighbor, but you'll be spared the legal fees and inconvenience. However, the incident will almost certainly sour neighbor relations.

That's why it's best to address unsound limbs before they come hurtling to the ground. Any large or old trees should be inspected annually. Note that you're within your right to cut back from a neighbor's tree branches that encroach onto your property. As a courtesy, tell your neighbor beforehand. With any luck, the neighbor will share the expense, which can run anywhere from $300 to $1,000—still less than the cost of a new roof or car.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Read our latest report on homeowners' insurance, which includes five ways to cut your premiums. And bookmark our Storm and Emergency guide ahead of the next major weather event.

Q&A: Should I have my home tested before I put it on the market?

Should we test our older home for radon, mold, and lead before trying to sell it? Would this help us stand out in a tough market?

We spoke with three regional vice presidents of the National Association of Realtors—each with more than three decades of experience selling homes in up and down markets.

"Buyers want to get their own tests, and they tend not to believe the seller's tests," says Mary Davis, a real-estate agent in River Edge, New Jersey. John Veneris, a real-estate agent in Downers Grove, Illinois, adds that home buyers should "wait until the general inspection to resolve any problems."

Robert Bailey, a real-estate agent in Santa Cruz, California, suggests that before homeowners put their house on the market, they get an idea of what problems exist by doing a general and pest-control inspection, along with a visual inspection for such problems as mold. (Keep in mind that mold-testing kits proved generally ineffective in Consumer Reports testing. Lead and radon kits fared better although quality varied in some cases very widely between brands.)

But time and money invested in home repairs and regular maintenance can pay off when it's time to sell. Water damage and cracks in the foundation won't go away and could be a deal breaker. A general professional home inspection is not required, but recommended as part of the selling process. And a property condition disclosure form is required in 44 states and the District of Columbia, according to NAR spokesman Walter Molony.

Buyers should be aware that Alaska, Arkansas, Kansas, Vermont, West Virginia, and Wyoming do not require this form, but federal law mandates that any seller of a house built before 1978 must disclose if lead paint was used as an interior or exterior finish.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Find out why staging your home might help close the deal and how to get the most for your house in a soft market.

Q&A: Are compact refrigerators an energy-efficient alternative to full-size ones?

We're considering getting a compact refrigerator for our finished basement. How energy efficient are these small fridges?

A small refrigerator, say a model with a capacity of about 2 cubic feet, could be a good fit for a your basement or home office or a dorm room (most are bought for dorms). And the low price—some models cost as little as $70—might be appealing. But these Lilliputian appliances are surprisingly inefficient when it comes to electricity consumption. The most-efficient compact refrigerator we recently tested consumes about 280 kilowatt-hours per year, compared with roughly 390 kWh for an energy-efficient 18-cubic-foot top-freezer refrigerator.

That means the mini-fridge offers only about a tenth of the storage space but uses almost 72 percent of the energy the full-size model consumes. In other words, you're not getting a lot of storage bang for your fridge buck. For more on compact refrigerators, read our brand-new ratings-based buying guide.

Whenever you shop for a refrigerator or other appliance, refer to the yellow EnergyGuide label to find out how much electricity it's likely to use. And read "Refrigerator Capacity Claims Don't Add Up" to find out which regular-size models offer the most usable storage space.

Q&A: How should I prepare for an earthquake?

We've moved to the Los Angeles area from the Northeast and just went through our first earthquake. What should we do to prepare for an earthquake?

Scientists are seizing the aftermath of the 5.4-magnitude earthquake that hit Southern California on July 29 as a "teaching moment." (See map below.) They've been doing hundreds of media interviews in a bid to better prepare the public for future earthquake activity.

As we note in our earthquake coverage on our Storm & Emergency Guide seismic activity is not confined to the West Coast. Follow our advice to gird your home so it can better withstand seismic shock.

For instance, you can bracket and brace bookcases, hanging pictures, chandeliers, and appliances to studs and joists; for a ceiling fan, ensure that the electrical box it attaches to is designed to support its weight and properly secured to framing; equip gas lines with automatic shut-off valves to reduce the chance of explosion and fire; and, if allowed by local building codes, replace rigid gas and water connectors with flexible connectors that can move during a quake.

We've also provided similar commonsense and cost-effective ways to harden your home against hurricanes, tornadoes and high winds, floods, and wildfires.

Emergency-management experts stressed in "Be Prepared for Weather Emergencies" that it's essential to have a plan to safeguard your papers and properties before a natural disaster strikes and safely evacuate your family. You'll find printable instructions on these preparations in our Storm & Emergency Guide.—Gian Trotta

Essential information: Read our product reports and expert advice if you need a chain saw or power generator as part of your emergency planning.

Earthquake map courtesy of the California Governor’s Office of Emergency Services.

10 Questions for . . . Andy Graves, Countertop Fabricator

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . ., Associate Editor Kimberly Janeway speaks with Andy Graves, owner of Olive Mill, a countertop fabricator/installer in Anaheim, California. Graves has been in the business for 22 years, and runs two Web sites about countertops, one for consumers and another for the trade. Here he offers his advice about buying, installing, and maintaining kitchen countertops.

What's hot in countertops?
Green materials, including product like Vetrazzo, IceStone, Paperstone, UrbanSlabs, EcoTop, Richlite, and many others. You can see the complete list of eco-friendly products at CountertopReview.com, my consumer Web site.

(Consumer Reports recently tested Richlite, a paper-composite countertop. Find out how it and other materials performed by researching our countertop Ratings, available to subscribers.)

What's crucial when choosing a counter?
Knowing your expectations. Many customers want the "perfect" material, and it doesn't exist. Customers need to find the material that fits their lifestyle. How much maintenance are you willing to do? Granite, concrete, tile, and wood all need sealers applied periodically. Can you afford this material? People need to find a great product that fits their budget.

What important detail do your customers ignore when selecting a material?
Seams. Because the samples never have seams in stores, customers just don't think about them and when they don't, they're usually disappointed when the counter is installed because the seams draw your attention. Solid surface, stainless steel, and wood have seams that can be finished to be virtually inconspicuous. And poured concrete can be one piece if done on site. But granite, quartz, laminate, glass, paper composite and marble have noticeable seams that can be seen and felt. And remember, the larger the top, the more seams.

Laminates are in wide use and did well in our recent tests. Why does this material remain so popular?
It's a great product and it's inexpensive. The newer ones come in a wider array of colors. The seams are minimal and there's no grout. Laminate is also very durable and can last a long time.

Undermount sinks are popular but not every material is suitable for such an installation. Which materials can be used with this type of sink?
A waterproof material is preferred—solid surface, stainless steel, and quartz are your best choices. Wood, granite, and concrete are also good choices, but make absolutely sure that they are thoroughly sealed. If the countertop material is sealed, you shouldn't have a problem with water damage.

Which materials can be used for seamless sinks, where you use the same material for the sink and counter?
Choose solid surface, stainless, or concrete when you want to use the same material for the sink and counter. (The photo right, courtesy of Olive Mill, shows a seamless solid-surface installation.)

Some countertop companies advertise prices in square feet, others in linear feet. What's the difference?
Not many companies charge based on linear feet. It has gone towards square feet, which is the basic length, or running feet, multiplied by the width. Linear feet and running feet are the same thing, a figure that represents the total length of countertops along the wall. But don't count the inside corner twice.

Q&A: How can I identify green flooring products?

I want to replace my kitchen floor with sustainably harvested wood. I've seen all kinds different green labeling on flooring. How do I know whether a material is environmentally sound?

If you had lived during the 19th century, you wouldn't have had many flooring choices for your home. Chances are the lumber used would have been the dominant species from a nearby forest, and you likely wouldn't have had concerns about the condition of the forest.

Fast-forward to 2008. You'll now find a wide array of wood-flooring options, including many domestic choices, products that originate in exotic locales around the world, and a number of nonwood materials, as we detailed in our August 2008 report. (The same goes for decking products, as we covered in our July 2008 review.) In this time of greater environmental awareness, you can choose flooring—and hundreds of other wood products—based on how sustainably they were produced.

That's where certification enters the picture. Among the dozens of sustainable-forestry certification programs, the Forest Stewardship Council and the Sustainable Forestry Initiative are the most recognizable in this country. Both nonprofit organizations, which date to the 1990s, aim to promote sustainable forestry.

Forest Stewardship Council
The FSC was founded by the World Wide Fund for Nature, other environmental groups, and industry representatives. The FSC's global standards for forestry management include 10 environmental, social, and economic principles and 56 criteria. All products that claim to contain FSC-certified wood must undergo an independent certification.

In part because the standards are very detailed and represent a balance of interests, leading environmental groups, including the Natural Resources Defense Council and the Sierra Club, consider the FSC to be the most credible forest-certification program.

To identify 100 percent FSC-certified products, look for the FSC logo (shown) along with "100%." The FSC also has percentage-based content labels, which indicate a blend of FSC-certified wood and other controlled sources and/or recycled material. You'll find a list of FSC products by using the search tool on the Forest Certification Resource Center Web site.

Q&A: How can we get a new area of our wood deck to match the existing part?

We need to replace a section of our pressure-treated deck, and I'm concerned the old wood and new planks won't look good together. How can we get the two sections to match?

Once you lay down the new deck, a thorough cleaning of the old section should help to even out any shade differences between the lumber.

• With a stiff-bristle brush attached to a long handle, apply a cleaning solution across the entire deck. Use a store-bought product or make your own by carefully adding 1 quart of bleach to a large bucket filled with 3 quarts of water. The cleaning solution will remove built-up dirt while the bleach solution will help rid the deck of mold and mildew.

• Use a pressure washer as an alternative to or in addition to a cleaner for dirt removal. Check out our advice for choosing a pressure washer and watch our video on using this equipment safely (above right).

• Using the wide spray pattern on the pressure washer, begin with the nozzle 2 feet away from the surface and move closer as needed but no closer than 6 inches to avoid damaging the wood fibers. If you don't have a pressure washer, use a garden hose with a sprayer attachment.

You could leave your deck unfinished, as the passage of time will finish the job of evening out the appearance between the two sections. But in your particular case, staining the deck will improve its appearance and unify the two sections visually. Plus, since your deck likely contains wood infused with chromated copper arsenate, staining it will have another payout. CCA, intended to make lumber resistant to insects and rot, contains known carcinogens. The penetrating stain will prevent water from saturating the wood and help to prevent arsenic from leaching out of your older lumber.

Our recent report on deck stains found some excellent solid (opaque) and penetrating stains to consider. After you buy the best stain for your deck (Ratings are available to subscribers), here's how to apply it.

• Let the deck dry out for a few days after you wash it before staining it, then follow the instructions printed on the can of stain. Typically, instructions recommend brushing deck boards one at a time following the grain. Be careful to not allow any pools of stain to form.

• If you use a roller, follow up with a brush to work in the treatment between the planks.

• Apply as many coats as the manufacturer recommends and wait for the indicated time between coats. Some finishes, including Sikkens Cetol SRD 1708902 semitransparent stain, $27 per gallon, can provide one-coat protection.

A final point to consider. The wood preservative ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary) can corrode some low-quality fasteners. If the planks you'll install are treated with ACQ, you might need to upgrade the fasteners you'll use.

Essential information: You'll find more information on deck materials, deck stains, and other outdoor-living essentials on our decks and deck stains product page. And don't forget to clean under your deck.

Q&A: Should we fix or replace our old water heater?

Our storage-tank water heater is on the fritz. Should we get it fixed or buy a new one?

It depends on the nature of the problem and whether your water heater is still under warranty.

Storage-tank water heaters are fairly long-lived, and most are backed by a 10-year or longer warranty. But when one does give out, it usually happens suddenly; you’ll probably notice water leaking out through a corroded spot in the tank. (Note to self: The typical storage-tank water heater holds 40 gallons of water, and a hole in the tank is really the same as an open spigot—the water will keep flowing until you shut off the supply So consider buying a wet/dry vacuum to deal with this type of mess.)

While you can’t salvage a corroded, leaking tank, a leaky drain valve or temperature/pressure-relief valve or a worn-out electric heating element can be repaired. But replacing the heater might make more sense.

First, get a repair estimate. Then weigh that amount against the $500 to $600 you’ll pay for a new heater and its installation. The $100 per hour you’ll pay a plumber for a repair will quickly add up to the cost of a new water heater. So put your money toward installing a new unit, especially if the warranty on your current model has expired.

Essential information: Learn more water heaters, including details on buying a new model. Read about actor/activist Ed Begley Jr.'s energy-efficiency efforts, and look for our report on tankless water heaters in the October 2008 issue of Consumer Reports.

Q&A: Is cocoa mulch dangerous to dogs?

We're considering using cocoa mulch around our entire property but read online that this stuff could toxic to our dog. Any truth to those stories?

The concern over dogs being poisoned by cocoa mulch dates back a few years. Unlike all those urban myths on the Web, there's some truth to the warnings about this mulch, also called cocoa-shell mulch (shown). For more information, read "Cocoa Mulch Is Toxic to Dogs."

Essential information: Visit our lawn and yard guide for more expert advice for your yard and garden.

Q&A: What’s the best way to repair bare patches in my lawn?

My lawn has several small bare spots. What’s the best way to repair these bald patches?

You can easily revive your yard without starting from scratch. Since you’re dealing with small areas, the easiest fix is to patch the bare spots.

1. Dig up and remove the damaged section, plus 6 inches of surrounding, healthy lawn, cutting 2 inches deep.

2. Smooth and level the soil. Add a small amount of soil amendment and starter fertilizer, firm the soil, water, and level again if needed.

3. Replant with seed, sod, or sprigs. For seed, cover lightly, press into place, and keep moist until germination. For sod, cut a section to fit, press it into place to firm roots against soil, and water frequently until rooted. For sprigs or plugs, plant them a few inches apart, cover lightly and press into place, and water until rooted.

NOTE: Do not use a fertilizer with crabgrass or weed control in the area to be reseeded six weeks before seeding and until after the new grass seed has germinated. Otherwise the grass will not germinate.

Essential information: See our lawn and yard guide for more expert advice for your property, including details on planting the right grass.

Q&A: Are prices for exterior paints going up?

We’re planning to paint our house in the coming weeks, and I’ve noticed that paint prices seem higher. Have they risen? If yes, why?

As we reported in our June 2008 report, rising petroleum prices could cause a jump of several dollars per gallon for exterior paints and stains. The higher prices might tempt you to pick a cheaper coating, but our tests show that penny-pinching by buying a lower-quality finish could cost you more money over time.

Our latest Ratings of more than 40 exterior paints and stains (available to subscribers) include results for major brands after one to three years of accelerated outdoor testing, equal to about three to nine years on a house. But as the scores show, some initially promising finishes look far less impressive when they're fully tested. (See “A Torture Test for Paints and Stains.”)

Get all the details on exterior paints and stains in “Scrimping Doesn’t Pay.”

Q&A: Any tips for getting my propane-gas grill ready for outdoor-cooking season?

I haven’t used my gas grill since last fall—it’s been sitting covered on my deck. How can I be sure it’s in shape to cook this summer?

Memorial Day is just a few weeks away, and this unofficial start of summer also signals the kickoff of outdoor-cooking season. Before you start searing steaks, grilling vegetables, or flipping burgers, you need to make sure your gas grill is in shape. Remember, a clean, well-maintained grill will improve the flavor of all the food you cook and help prevent grease fires and other accidents.

Follow the steps in “Help Your Grill Cook Better, Longer” and you should be all set to fire up your grill—safely—this spring and summer.

Essential information: Before you buy a grill, read our June 2008 gas-grills report and visit our gas-grills product page. Be sure to try our delicious, easy-to-prepare dishes—with expert advice for cooking the perfect steak—and use chef-restaurateur Bobby Flay’s recipes.

What are VOCs in paint, and is more or less of them better?

At my area home center I’m seeing more interior paints whose cans say the finishes have low or no VOCs. What are VOCs and what do the numbers mean?

The seal has definitely been broken on the issue of VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, in paint. You can expect to see more brands touting their virtuous VOC content.

VOCs are solvents that get released into the air as the paint dries. (Other products emit solvents, including adhesives, cleaning supplies, and even some home furnishings.) VOCs can cause acute symptoms, including headaches and dizziness. The long-term effects are less certain, but according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, some VOCs are suspected carcinogens.

The federal government caps the VOC content in paint at 250 grams per liter (g/l) for flat finishes and 380 g/l for other finishes (low-luster, semigloss, etc.). However, some manufacturers have opted to comply with more stringent limits—50 g/l for all finishes—set by California’s South Coast Air Quality Management District. These paints include such products as Benjamin Moore Aura, True Value Easy Care, and Glidden Evermore. In the past, low-VOC paints have performed poorly in our tests, but these products all got high marks in our latest tests of low-luster interior paints; see our Ratings (available to subscribers) for the full details.

(The Ozone Transport Commission, a multistate organization created under the Clean Air Act, also has a model rule that limits flat coatings to 100 g/l and non-flat coatings to 150 g/l. It has been adopted by the District of Columbia and the following states: Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont and Virginia. Any sold in these places must be OTC-compliant.)

A handful of paints whose manufacturers claim they contain zero VOCs are now on the market. One is Mythic, which sells for $35 to $45 per gallon at independent dealers nationwide. If you’re a reader of shelter magazines, you’ve probably seen the print ads for Mythic, including the one shown here. Another zero-VOC paint is Freshaire Choice, a Home Depot exclusive that sells for $35 to $38 a gallon. Freshaire has adopted a more wholesome marketing approach: “It’s good for your family, and better for our world.”

The base of other paints might also be free of VOCs, but when any pigment is added at the point of sale, the VOC level climbs as high as 150 g/l, according to ICI Paints, which manufacturers Freshaire Choice. But the makers of Mythic and Freshaire Choice both say that the color pigments used in their finishes contain no VOCs.

Mythic and Freshaire Choice use a VOC-free color additive that is supposed to eliminate not only harmful solvents but also the telltale odor of a freshly painted room, according to their manufacturers. Carl E. Smith, CEO of the Greenguard Environmental Institute, argues that measuring emissions is as important as identifying the VOC level in a paint. “You can have a low count on VOC, but still have high emissions,” says Smith. That’s why Greenguard, which describes itself as an “industry-independent, third-party testing” organization, makes emissions central to its certification process. Currently, Freshaire Choice earns the Greenguard seal, as does Benjamin Moore Aura, whose low-luster and flat paints scored an excellent and a very good overall score, respectively; Mythic has not yet been tested by Greenguard.

Consumer Reports has not yet tested Mythic or Freshaire Choice but both will be considered for our 2009 report of interior paints. We don’t know whether these finishes will endure our typical hiding, fading, and stain resistance tests.

Remember, even though a paint might have low or no VOCs, it doesn’t do you any good if it needs constant touch-ups or reapplying.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: If you’re about to tackle a painting project, see our buying guide to interior paint. Also, read this post on avoiding common painting mistakes.

Q&A: Where does Consumer Reports test lawn mowers?

I noticed that Consumer Reports is based on Yonkers, New York, which means you can't review new lawn mowers and tractors over the winter. Where do you test this kind of equipment?

To test walk-behind mowers, lawn tractors, and zero-turn mowers each year, project leader Peter Sawchuk heads a team of experts in Fort Myers, Florida. We prepare our six acres of test fields in late fall so they are ready in midwinter for us to put dozens of models through their paces with enough time for us to prepare a test report for the May issue of Consumer Reports and for the kickoff of prime outdoor-power-equipment buying season. If you’re in the market for a new model, see our latest reviews of mowers, tractors, and string trimmers. (Get your lawn mower in shape for spring and see how we test mowers and tractors.)

But grass isn’t all that flourished in the meadows during our six weeks of testing in February and March. Frequent visitors to the test fields included two pairs of red-shouldered hawks and a comical flock of white ibises.

By far, though, the most ubiquitous and numerous visitors were cattle egrets, one of which (shown) chanced upon a Toro zero-turn-radius mower parked near our test shed. Trying to nab uprooted insects, cattle egrets follow behind horses and cattle—and our tractor. Our feathered friend stayed put for several minutes before alighting for apparently greener or other bug-filled pastures.

As fun as it was to see the birds, our 2008 testing featured these more-interesting highlights:

Q&A: Are built-in refrigerators more prone to repairs than other types?

I’m planning a kitchen remodel and want the look of a built-in refrigerator. But built-ins have been more likely to need repairs, according to Consumer Reports. Are these refrigerators a bad investment?

Our past surveys have found that built-in refrigerators were more repair prone than other types. But a recent analysis by the Consumer Reports National Research Center (CRNRC) shows there's been a change. When the CRNRC looked at reader responses to the Annual Product Reliability Survey about refrigerators bought between 2003 and 2007, it found that built-in refrigerators have not been more repair prone. Note that the survey did indicate that Sub-Zero built-in refrigerators have been repair prone.

Built-in refrigerators like the highly rated KitchenAid KBFC42F[SS] shown offer a sophisticated, sleek look—at a high price. (The 11 built-in models in our latest report range in cost from $5,200 to $7,600.) Built-ins align with cabinets and can be covered with panels that match cabinetry. Most built-ins are at least 36 inches wide and are about a foot taller than conventional refrigerators since their compressors are on top.

Many built-in refrigerators are bottom-freezers, but you’ll even find separate built-in refrigerator and freezer columns that you can place next to each other or install in different areas of the kitchen. 

Essential information: Before you shop for a refrigerator, read our buying advice and review our Ratings of bottom-freezers, built-ins, side-by-sides, and top-freezers (available to subscribers).

Q&A: What's the best way to load a dishwasher?

My kids load the dishwasher in a haphazard way and the dishes sometimes come out dirty. Is there a proper way to load a dishwasher?

Careful placement—combined with using an enzyme detergent and a rinse aid—can make the difference between your getting glistening dishes and grungy ones. Note that you can skip prerinsing your dishes. This step wastes time and energy and uses as much as 6,500 gallons of water per year. You can save even more water by running only full loads.

Follow our expert advice to help your dishwasher perform its best and keep your items from getting damaged:

1. Load large items at the sides and back of the dishwasher, so that they don't block water and detergent from reaching other dishes.

2. Place the dirtier side of dishes toward the center of the machine to provide more exposure to the spray. Don’t let dishes or utensils nest, or rest side by side, which can prevent water from reaching all surfaces.

3. Use the top rack for plastic and delicate items that are dishwasher safe.

4. Rest glassware on prongs to prevent breakage. And to prevent chipping, make sure that china, crystal, and stemware don’t touch other items. Don’t machine-wash brass, bronze, cast iron, disposable plastics, gold-colored flatware, gold-leaf china, hollow-handle knives, pewter, tin, or anything made of wood or with a wood handle.

5. Load silverware with handles down but place knives with the handles up. If your dishwasher has an open basket, mix spoons, forks, and knives to prevent them from sticking together.

6. Place items with baked-on food facedown and toward the sprayer in the bottom rack.

Essential information: Read our latest dishwasher report and visit our dishwasher page for expert advice on how to choose the right model and to check out our Ratings (available to subscribers). Continue reading this blog to find out which models we've tested.

Q&A: Can I use a superglue for wood repairs?

In getting my wood planter boxes ready for early-spring planting, I noticed that some of the containers are pretty loose at the joints and that wide gaps have formed. Can a superglue handle this type of work?

Superglues are good for plastic, most are also intended for ceramic, and some will even work on wood, But superglues, like the other glues we tested for “No Adhesive Does It All,” aren’t ideal for everything, Simply put, no one household glue can serve every need.

Fixing outdoor wooden items like your flower boxes requires a water-resistant wood glue that will bond wood, make strong joints, and excel at filling gaps, such as Elmer's ProBond Interior/Exterior Wood Glue and Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue. (Ratings of glues are available to subscribers.)

Not all wood glues are water-resistant, so look for the word “exterior” or “waterproof” on the label. Most wood glues take 24 to 72 hours to cure and often require clamping,

No matter the work you’re doing, always choose an adhesive that’s right for the material you’re working with. See our expert advice for finding the right adhesive.—Kimberly Janeway

Q&A: Will one coat of paint cut it for interior projects?

We’re going to try to prep and paint two bedrooms in a long weekend. Any chance we can get away with only one coat of paint?

Our latest testing of interior paints reveals that some finishes deliver better one-coat coverage than others.

To determine one-coat ability, we paint a white, pastel, and medium of each paint on striped hiding charts with light-gray to jet-black bars (shown). To merit better one-coat distinction, even the white version of a paint must conceal at least the two lightest-color bars with a single coat. As you can see, the paint on the bottom offers more-complete coverage after a single coat than the one on the top.

But before we can recommend you use only one coat, we need to know the exact nature of your project because there are times when even the best one-coat paint won’t provide satisfactory coverage. For example, if you’re changing the bedroom walls from a darker color to a lighter one, say burgundy to beige, no fewer than two coats will keep the darker base from bleeding through.

That’s why you should use two coats of a top-rated paint for any decorative application—two coats are better than one. What’s more, to enhance hiding ability of a paint, manufacturers might skimp on some additives and end up diminishing other performance results of their paints. That is, a paint might cover well in one coat but might not resist scrubbing with a sponge or might start to fade a few months down the road.

If you’re intent on trying for a one-coat application, you won’t have to spend big bucks to do so: Five of the 14 paints that deliver better one-coat hiding cost $20 or less per gallon. One of those paints is the No. 1 paint in the low-luster category, which we consider to be the best paint for most applications.

Which paint is that? Check our Ratings of interior paints, available to subscribers.—Daniel DiClerico

Q&A: Do steam laundry appliances work better than regular washers and dryers?

I've seen a growing number of steam-equipped washers and dryers in stores. How well do these machines work?

As we noted in our February 2008 report "Washers and Dryers: Performance for Less,"€ more manufacturers are adding steam capability to their laundry appliances. (We've also tested steam dishwashers, including the LG LDF9810[ST].)

Three front-loading washers we tested—Kenmore (Sears) Elite HE5t Steam 4778[1], $1,600, LG Tromm SteamWasher WM2688H[WM], $1,500 (shown), and Whirlpool Duet Steam WFW9600T[W], $1,600—€”are equipped with steam modes designed to boost cleaning, sanitize fabrics, and remove stains. Each machine did a better job at removing stains with the steam setting, but these models cleaned well even without steam.

We also tested the steam modes of the matching Kenmore (Sears) Elite HE5 Steam 8772[1], $1,300, and Whirlpool Duet Steam WED9600T[W], $1,100, dryers; they use a water hookup and heat to generate steam. In steam mode, both dryers did a good job of getting rid of wrinkles and odors from the shirts we tested. Note that the steam mode allows only up to four garments per load. Another wrinkle: These dryers cost about twice as much as the Best Buys from our latest report.

Essential information: If you're in the market for new laundry appliances, see our buying advice for washers and dryers. Then check our Ratings of washers and dryers (available to subscribers).

Q&A: I'm agonizing over organizing. How can I get my home in order?

My No. 1 New Year’s resolution was to organize my home, including the garage. Any tips for managing the mess?

You’re not alone. Getting organized ranks high on resolution lists, up there with losing weight and spending more time with family and friends. The National Association of Professional Organizers even designates January as Get Organized Month. This drive to organize spells big business for manufacturers of de- and uncluttering products: The storage-and-organizing industry is a $6 billion business, and Americans will spend $8.6 billion on organizing products in 2011, according to the Freedonia Group, a business-research company.

But while plastic bins and drawer dividers can be part of an organizing strategy, buying them is not the starting point. “I try to steer my clients away from buying products, at least in the beginning,” says NAPO president and Boston-based organizer Standolyn Robertson. Instead, she gets homeowners to figure out how they want to use a space. In a garage, that might mean creating space for a small plant-potting station—“not to mention the $80,000 worth of cars that are currently parked out on the driveway,” says Robertson.

Once you’ve figured out what function a space will serve, it’s time to purge and purge again, as our colleagues at ShopSmart note in their March 2008 issue. Debra Proctor, an organizer based in Raleigh, North Carolina, stresses the importance of sorting. She has clients take everything out of a given space and sort it into three piles: essentials, useful stuff that they’re not crazy about, and items that no longer serve any purpose. She has them sort through the useful pile again until only the bare necessities are left.

The next step involves getting rid of unwanted items. Some of the cast-asides will merit a date with the dustbin. But keep them out of the landfill, if possible, by observing local recycling laws. For example, rather than toss paint cans out with the household garbage, take them to your local household-hazardous-waste station. Learn more about dealing with leftover paint here and disposing of other household materials. And visit our Electronics Reuse & Recycling Center.

For items that are still in decent shape, find charities that will take them off your hands for free. Some organizations will even come to your home and haul away the goods—and you might even earn a tax deduction in the process. Click on each category below to find an organization that will take your items.

Appliances    Automobiles    Books    Building Supplies    Cell Phones    Computers    Electronics    Exercise Equipment    Furniture 

Other options for getting rid of your stuff include Freecycle and Craigslist. Remember, your trash might be someone else’s treasure.

Once you’ve parsed, purged, and passed along, you’re ready to find a home for the