Q&A: How can I deal with lawn fungus?

After all the recent heavy rain we've had, several brown spots have appeared on my lawn, and they're spreading. Neighborhood dogs aren't causing the problem. Is my grass suffering from some kind of fungus?

Based on the photograph you sent us (shown), it looks as if your yard does have a fungus problem. Even if you took good care of your lawn earlier in the growing season, excessive water can damage grass and foster fungus growth.

To identify a fungus in your yard, use our guide to common lawn problems and visit the Cornell Cooperative Extension Web site. The CCE is a nationwide network of agricultural and environmental specialists based in Ithaca, New York.

Your next step is to apply a recommended fungicide to and around the infected area to keep the fungus from spreading.The CCE advises that you use the right product for the fungus problem you have and closely follow application instructions and precautions. When mowing, cut the healthy parts of the lawn before the sick, and bag and dispose of clippings to avoid spreading the fungus with your mower.

Proactive application of a general fungicide when the temperature first starts to rise in the spring, as recommended by our lawn-care expert, Peter Sawchuk, might prevent fungus problems altogether throughout the growing seasons, although you also need to take any possible measures to keep your lawn from encouraging fungal growth in the first place. Sawchuk buys fungicides in the fall since these products tends to be scarce in stores in the spring, when they're needed the most.

If you're in the market for a new lawn mower or tractor, read our latest report on this outdoor power equipment (story and ratings available to subscribers) and visit our mower/tractor product page.—Ed Perratore | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Water your lawn early in the morning, which lets the water settle in with less evaporation and protects your grass against the brightest, hottest part of the day. Watering late in the day could make your lawn susceptible to such fungi as brown patch, Pythium, and rust.

Q&A: How can I estimate how much roofing we'll need?

We're planning to replace our roof later this summer and want to get some ballpark estimates from a number of pros. How can I estimate how much roofing we'll need?

Knowing how much roofing material you'll need will make it easier to compare bids from contractors.

Roofs are measured in 100-square-foot areas, or squares. A square of three-tab shingles is typically three bundles, while for laminated shingles a square is usually four bundles. Read our latest report on roofing, which includes ratings of more than two dozen products and expert buying advice (report and ratings available to subscribers).

To gauge your needs, multiply the overall length and width of each section of your roof to determine the square footage, adding 10 percent to allow for waste. Then divide that number by 100 to determine how many squares the job will require.

If you don’t want to go on your roof to get accurate measurements, you can estimate the roof surface area by using the length and width of your home as the basis. Increase each of these dimensions by the amount the roof overhangs the exterior walls on each side of the home. Since the roof might have distinct sections and because most roofs are pitched, you'll want to increase the number you calculate. Adjust the calculated area by about 5 percent for a low-sloped simple roof to about 40 percent for a complex roof design with a steep slope.

When you get bids, be sure the contractor includes the cost of the underlayment (roofing felt), which creates a moisture barrier for the wood sheathing and rafters underneath. And don't forget to factor in adding an ice-and-water shield, which runs along the eaves and the valleys where two wings of the roof intersect, as well as new drip edges and metal flashing, which are often needed around pipes, chimneys, and the like. e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Weekend Project: Sharpen your mower blade

For our second weekend project, we're focusing on the blade of your lawn mower. As mentioned in the first installment of this series, we're running these items early in the week so you can get them on your to-do list early—and perhaps free up time for some R&R this weekend.

If you didn't sharpen the blade on your lawn mower at the start of this mowing season, or if you've been doing a lot of cutting so far this spring, now's the time to hone the cutter. And remember, you should sharpen the blade every year, more frequently if you have rocky or sandy soil. (If you're in the market for a new mower or tractor, read our latest report on this outdoor power equipment, available to subscribers).

A sharp blade not only cuts grass more cleanly but also trims fuel costs by up to 25 percent. Yet more than a quarter of Americans surveyed in our latest poll about lawns admit they've never sharpened their blade. That's a lot of gas money being left on the table not to mention butchered grass blades leading to ugly, unhealthy lawns.

Here's how to remove and sharpen the blade:

1. To remove the blade, turn the mower on its side; tip the mower so that the air filter faces up to keep engine oil from saturating the filter. To prevent a fuel spill, remove the blade once the mower has run out of gas or siphon off the gas. For good measure, remove the spark plug so there's no chance of the blade suddenly spinning to life.

2. Wearing heavy work gloves, secure the blade by lodging a block of 2x4 block between it and the mower deck (shown). Then use a combination wrench to loosen the bolt that anchors the blade to the drive shaft (there might be more than one bolt). If the bolt sticks, hit the handle of the wrench with a rubber mallet or use the breaker bar from your socket set for added leverage. Never be in a position where your hand or arm will contact the blade if the wrench or socket slips off the bolt or nut. Be sure to put the hardware in a safe place until remounting so you don't lose it.

3. Bring your blade into the local hardware store or power-equipment shop, where a sharpening will run you $5 to $10. If you get to the store before it gets too busy, they might be able to sharpen it on the spot, allowing you to get down to the real weekend project: cutting the grass. While you're at the store, pick up a second blade ($15 to $20). That way you'll always have a sharp blade on hand. Check the owner's manual before you head out to be sure you buy the right blade.

You could also sharpen the blade on your own using a metal file or a bench grinder, but it takes a steady hand to hold the blade at just the right angle and balance it without damaging the blade or hurting yourself.

4. When you remount the blade, be sure its cutting edge follows the direction of rotation—the wings of the blade will be oriented up toward the mower deck. If the mower has a cup washer, make sure the cup is facing the blade. Tighten the bolt according to the manufacturer's specifications.

Another good sharpening option is Dremel's Lawn Mower & Garden Tool Sharpener attachment (about $8) is. Peter Sawchuk, our outdoor-power-equipment expert, uses this attachment at our mower/tractor-testing site in Fort Myers, Florida, where we check out several dozen models every year. "I see value in the attachment for homeowners," says Sawchuk, noting that the nylon guide holds the blade at the right angle for maximum sharpness. In Sawchuk's experience, the only drawback to the attachment is that it can't grind out major nicks. You can also get similar drill attachments for sharpening a mower blade. Properly clamping the blade in a stationary position and using two hands to guide the tool will help you get a uniformly sharp cutting edge.

Even if you have to buy the rotary tool—a basic Dremel kit with a compatible model costs about $45 to $100—it will pay for itself in two or three years.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Read our additional tips for saving money while maintaining a lush, healthy lawn. And check out our mowers and tractors buyer's guide.

Protect Your Investment: Consider climate when building a new deck

If summer has taken a toll on your deck and you plan to replace it this fall or next spring, wouldn't it be nice to have a crystal ball to predict how long the deck will last, whether its color or grain will fade in the sun, or whether mildew stains will appear on shade-covered parts?

To get a glimpse into how well the almost two dozen different decking materials we recently tested might do after a year in different conditions, we left samples of each in Florida (warm, humid climate) and in Arizona (warm, arid climate); as a reference, we also kept a sample of each indoors in our labs.

(From left to right, the columns in the photographs here show the decking after one year stored in our lab; in Florida; and in Arizona. The five rows from top to bottom show the decking unwashed; washed with water and a brush; washed with OxiClean and a brush; washed with Behr wood cleaner; and cleaned with a pressure washer.)

Our testing indicates that rain and humidity foster the greatest mildew growth on composite decking materials. ChoiceDek (shown above), Monarch Exotics, Fiberon Tropics, Rhino Deck Vision Solid, and Trex Brasilia and Accents in particular showed mildew growth after a year in Florida. Symmatrix, Tamko EverGrain, and TimberTech stood out as the most resistant to mildew. Still, if you're concerned about mildew, consider using a deck stain formulated for composite decking. Also check whether the manufacturer claims its product is mildew resistant.

When it comes to wood, unless you apply a finish to preserve a wood deck—we recommend you treat a newly installed deck within a month of installation—it could turn an off color after a year or less. (Our wood decks turned gray in Florida, brown in Arizona.)

Color change in untreated decking isn't confined to wood. Trex Accents and Rhino Deck Vision Solid underwent the most dramatic color shift among composites. The plastic decking, including Deck Lok, Eon Classic, and Bear Boards, and the aluminum LockDry (shown right) we tested experienced little color change, and nearly all did an excellent job resisting mildew.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: For more details, visit our Decks & Deck Stains product page. And use our Outdoor-Living Guide to get the most out of your yard and deck, patio, or porch.

Q&A: Should I have my home tested before I put it on the market?

Should we test our older home for radon, mold, and lead before trying to sell it? Would this help us stand out in a tough market?

We spoke with three regional vice presidents of the National Association of Realtors—each with more than three decades of experience selling homes in up and down markets.

"Buyers want to get their own tests, and they tend not to believe the seller's tests," says Mary Davis, a real-estate agent in River Edge, New Jersey. John Veneris, a real-estate agent in Downers Grove, Illinois, adds that home buyers should "wait until the general inspection to resolve any problems."

Robert Bailey, a real-estate agent in Santa Cruz, California, suggests that before homeowners put their house on the market, they get an idea of what problems exist by doing a general and pest-control inspection, along with a visual inspection for such problems as mold. (Keep in mind that mold-testing kits proved generally ineffective in Consumer Reports testing. Lead and radon kits fared better although quality varied in some cases very widely between brands.)

But time and money invested in home repairs and regular maintenance can pay off when it's time to sell. Water damage and cracks in the foundation won't go away and could be a deal breaker. A general professional home inspection is not required, but recommended as part of the selling process. And a property condition disclosure form is required in 44 states and the District of Columbia, according to NAR spokesman Walter Molony.

Buyers should be aware that Alaska, Arkansas, Kansas, Vermont, West Virginia, and Wyoming do not require this form, but federal law mandates that any seller of a house built before 1978 must disclose if lead paint was used as an interior or exterior finish.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Find out why staging your home might help close the deal and how to get the most for your house in a soft market.

Protect Your Investment: Refrigerators

The average refrigerator lasts 14 years or longer—plenty of time to forget the spoilage and mess that can happen if it simply stops working. While you have few DIY options if it starts acting up, these routine maintenance tips can maximize its life and minimize repair-related down time:

Keep refrigerator and freezer gaskets clean to keep cold air in. That and holding open the doors as little as possible—especially with a houseful of kids—can also take a big bite our of your utility bills, since refrigerators compete with dishwashers as the biggest energy hogs in the kitchen (and both of them vie with plasma TVs for the title of top energy user in the entire house).

Check for simple solutions before calling a pro. The owner's manual typically includes a troubleshooting section. If the manual covers multiple models, be sure to mark which is yours, along with the serial number, while paperwork from the purchase is still handy—often a challenge later. Also be sure to save that paperwork as long as you own the fridge.

Serial numbers can be found on the inside walls of the refrigerator or freezer compartments, attached to the cabinet door jambs, or behind the kick plate at the bottom of the unit.

Protect your warranty by calling the right person. If you need help and the fridge is still under warranty, be sure to contact a manufacturer-authorized repair service. Otherwise, work done within the warranty may not be covered. Have model and serial numbers ready when you call, and get receipts for all work performed.

A specific serial number can also help you determine the age of your fridge. One Illinois-based energy consultacy has created this Refrigerator Dating Page that lets you input your brand, serial and model number to learn its exact age.

See the "How we test refrigerators" video above to get more insight into your icebox's innards. Even more model-specific expertise and empathy is available in one of the 141 topic threads in the Refrigerators section of our of our Appliances Forum.  Many manufacturer Web sites also often host forums with advice on specific models.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: Subscribers can see our complete advice recycling products that are beyond hope. Should you need to shop for a new refrigerator, start here.

Protect Your Investment: Lawn mower/tractor

Whether your mower, lawn tractor, or zero-turn-radius riding mower is new or old, some midseason maintenance can keep it cutting cleanly and reliably for years to come. Otherwise, you may face the same situation of one Keith Walendowski of Milwaukee, who shot his Lawn-Boy mower because it wouldn't start. (In all fairness, here is one opinion that insists the mower got what was coming to it.)

I asked Peter Sawchuk, our lead tester of outdoor power equipment, about the best ways to extend the life of a lawn mower or tractor, including zero-turn-radius mowers. They're a smarter, cheaper, and safer alternative to going postal in your backyard:

Clean the deck regularly. Make it part of your mowing routine to wash out the underside of the deck with a hose after each mowing. Clipping buildup reduces mulching performance and corrodes the metal over time, particularly when those clippings include fertilizer. Do it immediately after mowing, before clippings dry and harden.

Many tractors and zero-turn-radius mowers come with washout ports that accept a hose. Some models also accept retrofit ports. (Among walk-behind mowers, newer Toros are among the models that include washout ports.) If you have to wash out a riding mower manually, get a set of automotive ramps and simply drive the front of the tractor onto the ramps for easier access beneath.

An extra tip: After washing the underside of the deck, consider spraying it with an organic-based, non-toxic lubricant to help keep clippings from sticking next time around.

Keep blades sharp. Especially during the hotter, dryer part of the season, sharpen the blade(s) or have it done. Optimally, you'll do it at the start of the season and monthly thereafter—more often if you do lots of heavy cutting. Dull blades damage the grass as they cut, leaving unsightly brown-tipped grass in their wake. You'll also pay more in gas, since dull blades make your mower work harder and longer. Buying spare blades means your lawn won't overgrow while you get the first sharpened.

Check the oil. Walk-behind mower engines typically give out after 150 to 200 hours of use—or about eight to 10 years. But you can easily cut that lifespan if you let the oil level on four-stroke engines get too low on the dipstick or don't change the oil as often as the manufacturer recommends. Each time you mow, check the oil before you begin, and add more when the level drop to halfway point or lower. But filling above the "full" mark can also shorten engine life by causing the oil to foam and fail to lubricate critical parts.

Check the tires. For a tractors or riding mower, midseason is also the time of year to check tire pressure. As with car tires, those on mowers gradually lose air even without an actual leak, making the machine harder to steer and damaging the tires if air pressure gets too low. A rear tire that's low can also affect traction, making it easier to tear grass or slide on inclines.

Consider a new mower if your old one is tired. As with appliances and most products we test, it typically makes sense to replace rather than repair if the fix costs more than 50 percent of what you'll pay for a comparable new model. A timely benefit to newer gas mowers and tractors: They tend to run more efficiently and use less gas. If you're considering an electric mower for a smaller property, check with your local government for trade-in programs (like this recent one in Chicago) that let you swap a gas-powered mower for a less-polluting new battery-powered one.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: We tested more than 70 mowers and tractors (including zero-turn-radius mowers) in time for the early mowing season, but you can still find models in stores if you need to shop now. Here's advice on mower types, mowing safety, emissions, and robotic mowers. View Ratings of push and self-propelled mowers and tractors and our repair-or-replace charts (available to subscribers).

Protect Your Investment: Maintain your air conditioner

Air conditioners can be energy gluttons, but if you keep your air-conditioning in tiptop shape, you can decrease how much energy your cooling system uses this summer and maximize its efficiency. Consider that a dirty, clogged filter reduces airflow, can lead to operational problems like coil freeze-up, and in general makes your system work harder.

Best of all, the work is easy and won’t cause you to break a sweat.

Installation steps
• Vacuum any debris from the indoor and outdoor coils with an upholstery-brush attachment before you install your room air conditioner. Take care not to damage or deform the soft fins.
• Seal the perimeter of the installed unit with new weatherstripping, if needed.

Monthly jobs during cooling season
• Take out the filter and vacuum off debris. Wash it in warm, soapy water. Rinse the filter let it dry completely, then reinstall. If the filter is very dirty or your usage increases significantly, clean the filter more often.
• If dirt and debris have bypassed the filter, you will need to remove the front panel and vacuum dust and debris from the coils.
• Replace a deteriorated filter.

Tips for a central-air unit
• Call in your service contractor if you haven’t already. The pro should change all filters; clean and flush the coils, drain pan, and drainage system; and vacuum the blower compartments. Additionally, the service contractor should ensure that the system is properly charged with refrigerant, that there are no leaks, and that all mechanical components are working properly. Our experts also recommend that you:
• Clean or replace the filters monthly or as needed. Also clean the grilles.
• Clear debris and dirt from the outdoor condenser coils. And keep vegetation at least two feet away from the unit.
• Check if there’s a blockage in the pipe that drains condensed water from the indoor unit.

At the end of the cooling season, follow the expert advice in this Q&A from the Home & Garden blog.— Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Read our latest report on air conditioners, including Ratings of dozens of models (available to subscribers). Also find out how to use less air conditioning this summer and read our review of ceiling fans. And use our Home Improvement Guide interactive to take a room-by-room tour of the top-rated appliances and most cost-effective improvements you can make to your home.

Protect Your Investment: Decks

If you own a deck, the arrival of summer means your deck will start seeing a lot more traffic and activity, especially since 2008 appears to be the year of the staycation. A few simple moves will protect your deck from the crush of footfalls and prevent any deck-related accidents from dampening the festivities. (The North American Deck and Railing Association has designated May as Deck Safety Month.)

Check the Structure
Look for water stains inside your home where the deck ties to the house. Ongoing water leakage can lead to wood decay, weakening the deck structure and the house. For decks that are supported by the home’s structure on one side, be sure that the ledger board is properly attached with bolts (not nails) sufficient to support the load.

If you have any doubt about the structural integrity of the deck, especially if it’s a second-story or higher structure, call in a pro to investigate. The NADRA Web site includes a national directory of certified deck builders. Better yet, most municipalities have stepped up their enforcement of proper deck-construction techniques, so check with your local building department. As my colleague, Ed Perratore, reminds in this recent post, it’s important to clean debris from under the deck as well.

Clean the Surface
Rid your deck of moss and mold. If it’s a light build-up, a hose, a stiff-bristled brush, and a household cleaner and/or mild bleach solution may do the trick. But pressure washers are more effective against heavy gunk, provided you use them safely. If you see wood damage, like raised fibers, increase the distance between the spray nozzle and the decking.

If you’re in the market for a new pressure washer and have easy access to electricity near your intended uses, get an electric model instead of a gas-fueled one. Electric models are quieter and easier to transport and store than a gas-powered model (Ratings of pressure washers are available to subscribers.)

Treat the Decking
Check the decking for popped nails and cracked or checked wood. You can bang nails back in but you’ll need to replace boards that are badly splintered or severely rotted. If the finish is worn away or peeling, these are two good signs that the surface is ready for a new protective topcoat. We test opaque, semitransparent, and clear deck treatments. Opaque treatments hold up the longest but the paintlike film of this finish can crack and peel making refinishing more of a chore. This film also hides the natural wood grain. Clear treatments reveal the grain but typically need to be reapplied annually. Semitransparent treatments are a middle-of-the-road solution. For more information on deck treatments, visit our Decks & Deck Stains page.

Secure the Railings
Start by giving banisters a good strong bump to make sure they’re securely fastened to the structure. Then check that all the dimensions are up to code. Railings must be 36 inches high and rails must be no more than 4 inches apart to keep small children and pets from slipping through.

Photo courtesy of the North American Deck and Railing Association

Rebates and tax credits can lower appliance costs

While you might have back-burnered your plans for a kitchen remodel or a new laundry room, you can’t ignore an ailing dishwasher, a struggling refrigerator, or a washed-up clothes washer.

Fixing these appliances could be an option—see our repair-or-replace-it guide (available to subscribers)—but when you decide to replace appliances, consider more-energy-efficient models. This is one way to spend your federal economic-stimulus payment. And, as unlikely as it might seem, you can also turn to your utility company and the state and local government for some financial relief.

As of mid-May, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, maintained by North Carolina State University’s Solar Center with funding from the U.S. Department of Energy, lists 732 utility rebate and loan programs for consumers who buy energy-efficient appliances or other home systems. (The DSIRE's map is shown.) The site also includes details on 35 state rebate and loan programs and 13 personal-income-tax-credit or tax-holiday plans.

You’ll also fund information on rebate and tax-credit programs from utilities, states, and partners at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Partner Activities search; if you don’t see a program listed for your area, look on your utility bill for more information or contact your state taxation office.

These programs can offset the short-term acquisition and long-term operating costs of new appliances. Here’s how to take advantage of these opportunities:

Plug into utility companies’ rebates. Contact the efficiency program at your utility company, which might offer rebates on appliance purchases. Depending on the  offering, you might need to buy either an Energy Star–qualified appliance or one that meets higher efficiency levels, such as a Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) tier. For example, a CEE Tier 1 dishwasher must have an Energy Factor (the number of loads that can be washed per kilowatt-hour) of 0.65 and can't use more than 339 kWh per year, while a Tier 2 model must have an Energy Factor of 0.68 and use no more than 325 kWh annually.

 

In California, the Sacramento Municipal Utility District is offering a $25 rebate on a Tier 1 dishwasher and $75 on a Tier 2 model, provided you’re using an electric water heater in your home. In Oregon, the Columbia River Public Utility District ups the ante to a $100 rebate for a Tier 2 clothes washer that uses water from an electric heater, and $50 for one with water heated by gas, oil, or propane.

Brian Lips, a policy analyst at the North Carolina Solar Center at North Carolina State, notes that even if they don’t offer a rebate, many utilities will offer free pickup of an old refrigerator, saving you the disposal fee.