Tip of the Day: Take the work and injury out of fall cleanup

As I lay in bed last Sunday morning recovering from a day spent removing my air conditioners, my colleague Steven H. Saltzman had already started on his fall yard cleanup and wasted no time blogging about it.

Don't feel guilty if you've yet to start your own seasonal cleanup. In this case, procrastination is not a bad thing--use the time to review our best lawn-care products.

Plus, you'll be able to heed this expert advice from the Consumer Reports Health blog to avoid raking-related and other injuries. And follow these tips from Silvana Fix, D.P.T., a doctor of physical therapy with Spine and Sports Rehab in Fairfield, Connecticut.

• Before you start working, "a brisk walk for about 10 minutes is a good general warm-up," says Fix. To stretch your back, "Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and bend backward five to 10 times before returning to a full upright position," says Fix.

For your quadriceps, bend your right leg, grab the ankle with your right hand, and gently pull your leg toward your buttocks. Hold that for a count of 10 or 20. Repeat with your left leg. Be sure you're near a wall or tree and on flat ground so you can maintain your balance.

Fix also recommends this easy chest-and-shoulder stretch: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, clasp your hands behind your back and gently bring your hands away from your back. Hold for a count of 10 and repeat two or three times.

• When you rake, "Keep your wrists in a neutral position, with no bending. A rake that has a bent or side-mounted handle can help here," says Fix. She adds that good body mechanics are important: "Place one foot ahead of the other, keep your back straight, and rake the leaves while taking small steps backward and keeping your arms close to our body."

As you work, avoid stooping or bending forward, twisting your back, and overreaching with your arms, and keep your feet planted firmly in one place on the ground, according to Fix, who notes that you should stretch again when you're done and consult a medical professional if you pain lingers.—Gian Trotta

Essential information: Remember, it's important to get rid of leaves, especially under your deck. Piles of leaves are an open invitation to mice, which can carry Lyme disease and hantavirus, and other pests to set up warm winter homes. Our fall lawn-and-yard checklist will help your yard looks its best next spring. Autumn is an especially effective time to fertilize some lawns. Don't hesitate to fall back on mechanical help to get the job done, including the latest leaf-bagging lawn tractors, cordless and gas-powered leaf blowers, and string trimmers.

Pest Patrol: How to control moles in your yard

Moles, common in backyards throughout most of the United States, are a frequently cited problem in our Pest Patrol forum. The two most common mole varieties—star-nosed and eastern—measure about 7 inches long from nose to tail. They have broad, outward-facing pads on their front feet, small and narrow hind feet, and tiny pinholes for eyes; their ears are not visible.

Moles are voracious, high-metabolism feeders who use their large front paws to tunnel through the ground searching for ants, earthworms, and grubs; some species consume more than their weight in food daily. "They are pretty well adapted to life underground," says Craig Riekena, a compliance manager for Bell Laboratories, which makes the mole poison Talpirid. "Their fur lies and flexes against their skin in a way that lets them tunnel as if they're swimming."

You'll know you have a mole problem if you spot visible trenches and dug-up soil in your lawn and garden. Look for the raised ridges that characterize mole feeding burrows, along with molehills, which look like miniature volcanoes with plugged holes in the center. These are often located close to the deep permanent burrows where moles nest and reproduce.

Some molehills can be substantial enough to damage mower blades and housings. Flower beds are also at risk. "Since grubs gather around the roots of shrubs and flowers, moles scrape that dirt away and remove the plant's foundation and depriving the flowers of nourishment," says Stephanie VanSyckle, a spokeswoman for mole-trap manufacturer Victor.

Whether you take action against moles will depend on the extent of the damage they cause and your personal threshold for how it looks. Consumers Union Senior Scientist Michael Hansen notes that the ridges and molehills are mainly an aesthetic problem; you can tamp down the ridges and water them to repair damage. Hansen points out that moles' preferred foods include several soil pests, especially grubs, so getting rid of moles could exacerbate other problems.

To prevent moles from burrowing under or climbing into specific sections of your garden, experts recommend burying metal mesh hardware cloth 2 feet vertically below ground with another 6 inches showing above ground. Moles tend to tunnel closer to the surface in spring when soil is moist and go deeper in the summer. "Since moles have trouble burrowing through dense soil, arranging stones or dense claylike soil around a garden to a depth of 2 feet can also help," says Hansen.

Another natural defense—using a castor-oil mixture—has been touted by a poster in the Pest Patrol forum who says he hit on the idea after hearing that moles sometimes avoid fields where castor beans are planted. There's more than a bean of truth to that idea—a series of studies by three Michigan State University researchers revealed that one castor-oil-based spray repellent did keep moles at bay for periods ranging from 30 to 60 days.

However, researchers from Ohio State University and the University of Arkansas disagree with the MSU  findings, citing the short duration and effect of weather on the tests. Marne Titchenell, a professor of wildlife ecology at OSU, also warns that castor oil can harm insects, earthworms and other creatures that populate the soil.

Peter Sawchuk, a program leader in our Technical Department, reports good results using Spectracide's Mole Stop and Bonide's Mole & Gopher Repellent. "Both of these have worked well for me," Sawchuk says, "but keep in mind that you'll be driving the moles into the adjoining property, which might not endear you to your neighbor." Other posters are recommending cats as another natural way to control moles.

Pest Patrol: How to get rid of grubs in your yard

If irregularly shaped sections of your lawn are withering away, the problem could be grubs. These small beetle larvae live in the soil and feed on lawn roots.

To determine whether you have a grub problem, cut into your lawn near the edge of a brown area and lift the grass. If it comes up easily, as if you’re rolling up carpet, your yard has grubs. Odds are, you’ll see some of these milky-white, wormlike creatures with brown heads and three pairs of legs curled into a C shape (shown).

The remedy: Apply chemical insecticides with imidacloprid or halofenozide in July or August when grubs are immature. After a couple of days, reseed or replant any damaged areas. (Learn how to plant the perfect grass.)

To kill mature grubs this fall or next spring, combine Heterorhabditis nematodes—sold in pastelike form—with water and apply to the soil according to the package instructions.

Next week’s pest: There’s one other reason to target grubs—they’re a favorite food of moles, whose extensive tunneling can exacerbate the damage grubs do to your lawn. We’ll target ways to control the five species of mole common to the U.S. in an upcoming installment of Pest Patrol.

Essential information: Our updated Complete Lawn & Yard Guide offers how-to advice for planting and pruning and Ratings (available to subscribers) of a wide array of lawn and garden equipment. You’ll also find the best ways to deal with weeds, lawn diseases, and common insects as well as an interactive tour of  major lawn problems.