Q&A: Are prices for exterior paints going up?

We’re planning to paint our house in the coming weeks, and I’ve noticed that paint prices seem higher. Have they risen? If yes, why?

As we reported in our June 2008 report, rising petroleum prices could cause a jump of several dollars per gallon for exterior paints and stains. The higher prices might tempt you to pick a cheaper coating, but our tests show that penny-pinching by buying a lower-quality finish could cost you more money over time.

Our latest Ratings of more than 40 exterior paints and stains (available to subscribers) include results for major brands after one to three years of accelerated outdoor testing, equal to about three to nine years on a house. But as the scores show, some initially promising finishes look far less impressive when they're fully tested. (See “A Torture Test for Paints and Stains.”)

Get all the details on exterior paints and stains in “Scrimping Doesn’t Pay.”

CPSC recall of Cabot deck cleaner

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recently issued a recall of about 24,000 containers of Cabot Composite Deck Cleaner #3502 because of an inhalation and fire hazard.

The cleaner, made by Cabot Stains of Newburyport, Massachusetts, contains an ingredient that can react with metal foil residue on the packaging, releasing heat and chlorine gas, according to the CPSC.

If you bought any of the cleaner, which comes in a 2-pound plastic container (shown), do not use it and return the product to the store where you bought it for a refund. If the container appears misshapen or feels hot, call Cabot (877-755-3336, 24 hours a day) to arrange for the safe handling of the cleaner.

For more details on the recall, read the CPSC’s notice or download a PDF from the Cabot Web site.

Essential information: Look for our report on deck materials and deck stains in the July 2008 issue of Consumer Reports. And follow these tips to get a great-looking deck.

What are VOCs in paint, and is more or less of them better?

At my area home center I’m seeing more interior paints whose cans say the finishes have low or no VOCs. What are VOCs and what do the numbers mean?

The seal has definitely been broken on the issue of VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, in paint. You can expect to see more brands touting their virtuous VOC content.

VOCs are solvents that get released into the air as the paint dries. (Other products emit solvents, including adhesives, cleaning supplies, and even some home furnishings.) VOCs can cause acute symptoms, including headaches and dizziness. The long-term effects are less certain, but according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, some VOCs are suspected carcinogens.

The federal government caps the VOC content in paint at 250 grams per liter (g/l) for flat finishes and 380 g/l for other finishes (low-luster, semigloss, etc.). However, some manufacturers have opted to comply with more stringent limits—50 g/l for all finishes—set by California’s South Coast Air Quality Management District. These paints include such products as Benjamin Moore Aura, True Value Easy Care, and Glidden Evermore. In the past, low-VOC paints have performed poorly in our tests, but these products all got high marks in our latest tests of low-luster interior paints; see our Ratings (available to subscribers) for the full details.

(The Ozone Transport Commission, a multistate organization created under the Clean Air Act, also has a model rule that limits flat coatings to 100 g/l and non-flat coatings to 150 g/l. It has been adopted by the District of Columbia and the following states: Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont and Virginia. Any sold in these places must be OTC-compliant.)

A handful of paints whose manufacturers claim they contain zero VOCs are now on the market. One is Mythic, which sells for $35 to $45 per gallon at independent dealers nationwide. If you’re a reader of shelter magazines, you’ve probably seen the print ads for Mythic, including the one shown here. Another zero-VOC paint is Freshaire Choice, a Home Depot exclusive that sells for $35 to $38 a gallon. Freshaire has adopted a more wholesome marketing approach: “It’s good for your family, and better for our world.”

The base of other paints might also be free of VOCs, but when any pigment is added at the point of sale, the VOC level climbs as high as 150 g/l, according to ICI Paints, which manufacturers Freshaire Choice. But the makers of Mythic and Freshaire Choice both say that the color pigments used in their finishes contain no VOCs.

Mythic and Freshaire Choice use a VOC-free color additive that is supposed to eliminate not only harmful solvents but also the telltale odor of a freshly painted room, according to their manufacturers. Carl E. Smith, CEO of the Greenguard Environmental Institute, argues that measuring emissions is as important as identifying the VOC level in a paint. “You can have a low count on VOC, but still have high emissions,” says Smith. That’s why Greenguard, which describes itself as an “industry-independent, third-party testing” organization, makes emissions central to its certification process. Currently, Freshaire Choice earns the Greenguard seal, as does Benjamin Moore Aura, whose low-luster and flat paints scored an excellent and a very good overall score, respectively; Mythic has not yet been tested by Greenguard.

Consumer Reports has not yet tested Mythic or Freshaire Choice but both will be considered for our 2009 report of interior paints. We don’t know whether these finishes will endure our typical hiding, fading, and stain resistance tests.

Remember, even though a paint might have low or no VOCs, it doesn’t do you any good if it needs constant touch-ups or reapplying.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: If you’re about to tackle a painting project, see our buying guide to interior paint. Also, read this post on avoiding common painting mistakes.

Kitchen/Bath Industry Show Product Preview: Thomas’ Liquid Stainless Steel

Suppose you love your refrigerator, range, or dishwasher but really hate the bisque color you loved when you bought the appliance. Instead of replacing the appliance you can give it a makeover. Thomas' Kitchen Art Liquid Stainless Steel is designed to cover up an old finish with a stainless-steel look.

You can apply this brush-on finish yourself in a weekend, claims Thomas’. This two-part, water-based paint includes a base coat with micron-size flakes of real stainless steel and a clear-urethane topcoat for toughness, says the manufacturer. You can even use your refrigerator magnets once the paint has cured, according to Thomas’. (An after shot of a range is shown below left; the before of the same range is below right.)

The steps are straightforward:
• Prep the appliance surface by removing or masking handles and trim. Lightly rough-sand and clean the surface with window cleaner.
• Apply three light coats of the paint with a roller and smooth it with a foam brush, letting each coat dry about an hour before you apply the next one.

Liquid Stainless Steel works on painted and stainless finishes and can withstand heat up to 300°F on range tops, according to the manufacturer. The Fridge Kit, $40, is supposed to have enough paint for an average-size refrigerator, while the Range and Dishwasher Kit, $20, should handle both appliances. The kits are sold at hardware stores and some Home Depots. A spray-on version for faucets and other small items is on the way, says Thomas’.—Bob Markovich

Q&A: Will one coat of paint cut it for interior projects?

We’re going to try to prep and paint two bedrooms in a long weekend. Any chance we can get away with only one coat of paint?

Our latest testing of interior paints reveals that some finishes deliver better one-coat coverage than others.

To determine one-coat ability, we paint a white, pastel, and medium of each paint on striped hiding charts with light-gray to jet-black bars (shown). To merit better one-coat distinction, even the white version of a paint must conceal at least the two lightest-color bars with a single coat. As you can see, the paint on the bottom offers more-complete coverage after a single coat than the one on the top.

But before we can recommend you use only one coat, we need to know the exact nature of your project because there are times when even the best one-coat paint won’t provide satisfactory coverage. For example, if you’re changing the bedroom walls from a darker color to a lighter one, say burgundy to beige, no fewer than two coats will keep the darker base from bleeding through.

That’s why you should use two coats of a top-rated paint for any decorative application—two coats are better than one. What’s more, to enhance hiding ability of a paint, manufacturers might skimp on some additives and end up diminishing other performance results of their paints. That is, a paint might cover well in one coat but might not resist scrubbing with a sponge or might start to fade a few months down the road.

If you’re intent on trying for a one-coat application, you won’t have to spend big bucks to do so: Five of the 14 paints that deliver better one-coat hiding cost $20 or less per gallon. One of those paints is the No. 1 paint in the low-luster category, which we consider to be the best paint for most applications.

Which paint is that? Check our Ratings of interior paints, available to subscribers.—Daniel DiClerico

Protect Your Investment: Make your paint last

“At the end of a paint job, you’ll almost always have some leftover paint. Don’t dispose of it,” says Debbie Zimmer, director of communications and media relations at the Paint Quality Institute. Inevitably you’ll need to touch up a paint job, and you could have trouble matching the color at a later date if you don’t save the leftover paint.

Follow this expert advice to properly store open cans of paint. Do the job right, and your paint could last for years:

1. Never store paint where it will be subjected to subfreezing cold or extreme heat (more 100°F). Although most paints are formulated to withstand several freeze/thaw cycles, these conditions can ruin coatings by causing them to solidify
2. Always store the paint in its original container, with the label intact. This will help you properly identify the color and type of paint when you use it again
3. If key information is concealed by paint drippings, write down the brand, manufacturer’s code, color, gloss level, and type of paint on a strip of masking tape and affix it to the side of the can before you put it away. It’s also a good idea to include detailed information on where you used the paint, especially when similar colors were used throughout the house.
4. Clean wet paint from the groove on the rim with paper towels.
5. Cover the can opening with plastic wrap to help keep the container airtight.
6. On a metal can, replace the lid by using strong pressure to press it down into the groove lines. Don’t use a hammer to seal the can—you could damage the rim. Instead, use a rubber mallet, but not with too much force. If you have a plastic can with a screw-on lid, follow the first two steps, then apply the lid. If the leftover paint is an alkyd, or oil-based, product, place a piece of waxed paper directly onto the paint before sealing the can to prevent a film from forming as the paint sits.

Essential information: Read our March 2008 report on interior paints, including the latest information on one-coat finishing and details on volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in paint. And when the time comes to dispose of paint, find out the best ways to handle your old finishes.

Tip of the day: Avoid common painting mistakes

You don’t have to be a pro to get high-quality results. But cutting corners will produce a sloppy job, and even the highest-rated paint will fail if you don’t apply it properly.

To make your work last, DON’T . . .

Ignore prep work. “Surface prep is 85 percent of the job,” says Debbie Zimmer, director of communications and media relations at the Paint Quality Institute, which educates consumers and pros alike about buying and using paint.

• To ensure a smooth, even, and secure finish, start by wiping dust, dirt, and grime from the surface with a damp cloth.

• Tackle stubborn stains with a solution of 3 parts water to 1 part bleach.

• Fill dings and nail holes with plaster compound and patch cracks with painter’s caulk.

• Apply a primer coat to naked wood surfaces, new drywall, walls painted a dark color, and deep-set stains, such as those caused by tobacco smoke or water damage.

Skimp on materials. A gallon of paint covers roughly 400 square feet of surface. A quart should suffice to paint the molding and trim in a 100-square-foot room. Don’t eke out the job by applying too little paint—you want to try to apply the same amount to all surfaces. You can use properly stored leftover paint for future touch-ups. Click here for guidelines on paint storage.

Use the wrong tools. Cheap brushes and rollers could leave bristles and fibers on the wall, and they won’t load and distribute paint properly. A synthetic-bristle brush is best for latex-based interior paints. (You’d use a natural-bristle brush for an oil-based, or alkyd, paint.) Choose brushes whose bristles have split ends that taper to the tip. For rollers, choose a synthetic-fiber, seamless roll with a short nap; 1⁄16 to 1⁄4 inch is recommended for smooth plaster, wood, and metal surfaces.

Overapply paint. An A+ paint job requires a steady, measured hand. Start by cutting in a 2-inch strip around windows, doors, corners, and edges. Then fill in the fields with a roller. Follow a W-shaped pattern, which will distribute paint evenly and prevent drips and lap marks from marring the surface and always blend wet edge back into previously painted section.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Read our March 2008 report on interior paints, including the latest information on one-coat finishing and details on volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in paint.

Tip of the day: How to dispose of paint

You’ve probably got at least a few partially used cans of paint or stain sitting around your basement, garage, or shed. Should you hold on to them for touch-up jobs? Bring them to your municipal recycling center? Find an organization to donate them to?

You’re not alone in your predicament. In fact, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recently estimated that as much as 69 million gallons of paint are left over annually in the United States. That’s enough paint to cover 27.6 billion square feet each and every year, or the five boroughs of New York City--some 303 square miles—more than three times. Keeping the paint is definitely a better move than tossing it in the trash; at least that way the paint stays out of the waste stream, where it could contaminate soil and groundwater. Or you could even use the paint for odd jobs around the house, say, painting your garage walls. But if you want to give the boot to those old cans, here’s what you can do:

Check the label. Paint made before 1978 might contain lead, and paint made before 1991 might contain mercury. Both materials should be listed on the paint label. If they’re not and you’re concerned the paint contains either of those neurotoxins, read "Dispose of it," below. (For more information on the environmental health impacts of lead and mercury, use the Toxics search on GreenerChoices.org.)

Donate it for reuse. Some organizations will accept paint that’s in good condition, meaning it can be easily stirred to a smooth consistency and is uncontaminated. The paint should also be in an intact, labeled container. Check for donation options in your area by clicking on “Paint donation” at Earth911.

Recycle it. Some communities offer recycling programs for old paint and empty paint cans. Water-based, or latex, paint can be recycled into new paint or it can even be used to create nonpaint products such as cement. Oil-based, or alkyd, paint is usually used for fuel blending—meaning it’s burned to create energy at a power plant. To find out whether paint recycling is an option in your area, contact your municipal recycling or household-hazardous-waste center. You can also search for recycling options by ZIP code by clicking on “Paint recycling” at Earth911 or by calling the group’s free service line at 800-253-2687.

Dispose of it. If you can’t donate or recycle your paint, find out how to properly dispose of it in your area. Each municipality has different requirements, depending on whether the paint is oil- or water-based.

Oil-based paint is always considered hazardous and should be disposed of at a household-hazardous-waste collection facility. Water-based paint is treated as hazardous in only a few states—including California, Washington and Minnesota—and is still generally accepted at hazardous-waste facilities. To find disposal instructions for your area, contact your local household-hazardous-waste center. You can also search for options by ZIP code by clicking on “Paint disposal” at Earth911 or by calling the group’s free service line at 800-253-2687.—Kristi Wiedemann, Science and Policy Analyst, GreenerChoices.org

Essential information: Find out which interior paint to buy in our March 2008 report on interior paints, which includes the latest information on one-coat finishing and details on volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in paint. 

House paint: Get the lead out

While you might have read, heard, or seen many recent news reports about the recalls of children’s toys with excessive levels of lead paint, it’s important to remember that the leading cause of lead poisoning in children is house paint. "Protect Our Most Valuable Resource—Our Children" is the theme of this year’s National Lead Poisoning Prevention Week, which runs through October 27. It’s a good time to take advantage of free lead screening and educational events hosted by many states and communities and to eliminate risks around your home.

Even though paints containing lead have been banned in this country since 1978, lead remains a looming danger for anyone living in a home built before that year since a renovation or remodeling project or even simple aging can create toxic dust. Airborne lead particles can make their way into your body or contaminate the soil around your home. The older your home, says the Environmental Protection Agency, the greater the chance it has lead-based paint, a threat even if you've laid lead-free coats over it. To minimize lead-paint exposure, follow these tips when working on your home:

Look for lead. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests you not use home test kits but rather opt for professional testing. (We are currently testing home-use testing kits for lead in paint and will report on them in a Spring 2008 issue.) A trained inspector can test painted surfaces on-site or send samples to a lab. The EPA brochure “Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home,” available at www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/rrpamph.pdf, offers suggestions on finding an inspector as well as information on what to look for in a remediation contractor. (The brochure is a good overall source of information for dealing with lead hazards.) Also read this entry from the Consumer Reports On Safety blog about our recent report on home lead-testing kits.

Prep properly when painting. If there are no qualified pros in your area to remediate lead paint or if you're determined to do the job yourself, steer clear of hazards when you're preparing a surface for repainting. Do not use a sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry scraper, or dry sandpaper to remove the finish. If you do, you can create dust that's tracked around the house, and fumes generated when heat is applied can be poisonous.

Protect yourself. Dust masks won't help, so wear a NIOSH-certified respirator equipped with HEPA filters to control lead exposure. Also don coveralls, goggles, and gloves. Clean up carefully with a HEPA-filter vacuum and a wet mop.

Shield your family. Move them out of the house--or at least properly seal off the work area--until the prepping is complete and the area is thoroughly cleaned. This involves removing all paints chips immediately, wiping all surfaces with warm water and a general-purpose cleaner or one designed for use with lead, and thoroughly rinsing sponges and mops afterward. Wash your kids’ hands often, especially before meals and bedtime. And regularly clean items in play areas.

Eliminate leftover paint. While paint made after 1978 does not contain lead, it can still pose a threat. For example, tossing the remaining paint sends it into the waste stream where it could contaminate soil and groundwater. See our report on dealing with leftover paint for information on how to reuse, donate, or properly dispose of cans.—Helen A.S. Popkin

Essential information: To learn about childhood lead-poisoning prevention, contact the following agencies:
• Center for Disease Control’s Childhood Lead Poisoning Prevention Program
• Department of Housing and Urban Development
• Environmental Protection Agency
• National Lead Information Center.

Tip of the day: How to hire a painter

Most homeowners hire a contractor to repaint the exterior of their home. Follow our advice to help ensure a high-quality job, whether you’ll have your house painted this fall or next spring.

Meet the pros. Call in at least three different contractors for your job. (Friends and family are good reference sources.) And be home for the initial meeting with them. That way, you’ll know how much time each contractor took to assess the condition of your home. The longer he takes, the more realistic the estimate you’ll get. Even an experienced painter will need more than a quick walk around your house.
    Also ask each contractor about the size of his crew and the members’ experience level.

State your expectations. The number of coats a painter applies isn’t the only factor in determining the quality—and price—of the project. Preparation is also key. If you want a surface that’s free of unevenness from past paint jobs, tell the contractors—and be prepared to pay extra. But if you can live with some imperfections, agree on what level of prep is acceptable and what isn’t.

Get estimates. Seek a written estimate from each contractor. It should include a breakdown of labor, material costs, the number of coats of primer and paint, the brand and model of materials, and a detailed description of the amount of surface preparation that will be done.

Check references and past work. Get a list of references from each contractor and call them to find about their experience with the pro. A history of positive references is a good sign. Also examine jobs the painters did several years ago to see how their work is holding up. Use recent projects to check the skill of their current crews.

Consider credentials. Before you hire someone, consider his credentials. Membership in a trade or local business group, for example, isn’t a guarantee of quality work, but it shows a level of commitment and reliability on his part. Also verify whether the pro has the appropriate license(s). (You’ll find the licensing information in your state at the Contractor’s License Reference Site. Also check with the Better Business Bureau, the attorney general’s office in your state, or a local consumer-affairs agency to learn whether the contractor has a history of unresolved complaints.

Obtain a complete contract. The contract should include all the contractor’s key information: name, address, office and cell numbers, and license number, plus whatever details were in the estimate. Make sure the contract clearly states what is and is not included in the job.
    Get a copy of the painter’s liability and workers’ compensation insurance certificates. If he doesn’t have coverage, you could be on the hook if, for example, the crew drops a ladder on your neighbor’s car or a crew member gets hurt on the job.

Ask for a guarantee. The painter should promise to correct any chipping, peeling, blistering, flaking, or excessive fading or chalking that occurs within two years after the job is done at no or little cost. If he tells you the paint itself has a warranty, remember that doesn’t include labor, which is a far more costly proposition than material.

Choose the paint yourself. Your painter might try to talk you into a paint he prefers, but use the finish you want. See our latest report on exterior paints and stains and refer to our Ratings (available to subscribers) to find top performers.

Look for lead. If your home was built before 1978, older coats of paint could contain lead. That means the painter might need to take extra precautions to avoid any hazards. See “Getting the lead out” for more information.

Hold out. Finally, don’t make a large down payment and withhold the final payment, typically 10 to 15 percent, until you are fully satisfied with the job.

Illustration by Jason Schneider

Q&A: Why does the paint color I liked in the store look so bad on my walls?

We recently started to repaint our dining room. The off-the-shelf yellow we chose seems a lot flatter on the first wall we finished than it did on the color sample at our local home center. What went wrong?—R. Gordon, via e-mail

Color intensifies in large areas, and sunlight and room light can affect your color perception. Fluorescent light, the kind used at the store, enhances blues and greens but makes warm reds, oranges, and yellows appear dull. Incandescent light works well with warm colors, but might detract from the look of cool ones. And natural sunlight changes how a finish looks depending on the season and the time of day. Gloss level also affects color. For example, flat paints and textured walls absorb light, so colors seem darker. 

Since you don’t want to live with a finish you don’t like, choose another color. (You might be able to return unopened cans for store credit.) Buy a quart or a pint of a few different samples in the color family you like.

Apply each paint on a practice board, available at most home centers. Hang the boards in various areas of the room to see how the colors appear in the changing light. Then take a few days to live with the colors and decide which one you prefer. If it's a toss-up between a darker and a lighter shade, go with the lighter one.

Essential information: Choose the top-of-the-line paint in whichever brand you choose. Lesser paints don’t perform nearly as well and repainting might cost you more money in the long run. Read our latest report on interior paints, “Basic to off-the-wall,” and our buying advice to learn how to choose a paint. Then see our Ratings (available to subscribers) to find out which brands performed best.

Q&A: Any tips for refinishing a wood deck?

My 15-year-old pressure-treated-wood deck is in good shape but the opaque finish needs a face-lift. I don’t want to pay a pro, so what’s the easiest way to get the job done?—W. Burks, San Anselmo, CA

Unless the old deck treatment has peeled or flaked, refinishing a deck is definitely a DIY job most homeowners can handle. The work can be tedious, but it’s not tough to do. Since opaque finishes are like paint, the surface simply needs to be free of mildew and clean enough to allow proper adhesion of the next coat. If the old finish is in poor condition with peeling, flaking and cracking, you might want to call in a pro for this more-involved work.

First, choose an alkyd-based or latex-based finish. If you want a water cleanup, use a latex finish. A few alkyds can be cleaned up with water. And stick with the opaque finish to avoid having to sand off the old finish. If you switch to a clear or semitransparent finish and have to scrape or sand any part of the deck, wear adequate protection—gloves, goggles, and a dust mask—and properly dispose of all sawdust and debris. (For more information on working with pressure-treated lumber, read this information from Environmental Protection Agency.)

To find the right finish for your deck, read our latest report on deck treatments, “Clear Winners.” Our test-based Ratings (available to subscribers) feature 20 fully tested finishes, including four Quick Picks.

Plan your work when the weather forecast calls for an extended period of dry weather. Then follow these steps:

• Remove all furniture, planters, and other objects from the deck. Sweep off any debris or leaves. Protect plantings around the deck by covering them with a plastic tarp. And use painter’s tape to keep the finish off walls or other adjacent surfaces.

• With a stiff bristle brush attached to a long handle, apply a cleaning solution across the entire deck. Use a store-bought product or make your own: Carefully add 1 quart of bleach to a large bucket filled with 3 of quarts water. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application.

• Get out your pressure washer to rid the deck of mildew and other stains. Using a wide spray pattern, begin with the nozzle 2 feet away and move closer as needed, but no closer than 6 inches to avoid damaging the wood. Wash the entire deck. If you don’t have a pressure washer, use a garden hose with a sprayer attachment. Let the deck dry for a few days before applying the new finish.

• To apply the finish, brush deck boards one at a time following the grain. Be careful to not allow any pools to form. Avoid brush marks by applying the finish from wet areas to dry areas. If you use a roller, follow up with a brush to work in the treatment.

• Use as many coats as the manufacturer recommends.

• If you’re going to apply a second coat, check the label for drying time between coats. Let the final coat dry for at least 72 hours before walking on it or replacing the furniture and planters.

Send your questions about deck treatments or any other home-related topic to our experts.