Tip of the Day: How to cut your dry-cleaning costs

My latest bill from the cleaner (right) showed a $1.50 per-item hike for pants and sweaters. It turns out that the cost of wire hangers is largely to blame for the new price. Considering how much laundry my family can generate, I've decided to look for some ways to cut my clothes-cleaning costs.

When I worked as a sportswriter, I used to steam up hotel bathrooms and hang my shirts in there to dewrinkle them.
But I'm not on the road anymore. What's more, notes Chris Allsbrooks, a textile analyst at the Dry Cleaning & Laundry Institute. "Hanging clothes in the bathroom to remove wrinkles doesn't work as well as it once did, since American bathrooms have gotten much larger."

High-tech appliances might be a viable way to cut my costs. But our tests of steam-equipped washers and dryers have shown that these machines are unlikely to replace dry cleaners anytime soon.

However, we did get good results when we checked out the Whirlpool Fabric Freshener, $215, a couple of years ago. This appliance uses a pop-up steam chamber the size of a large garment bag to remove wrinkles and odors from clothes. We filled it with several rumpled dress shirts and other cotton items steeped in cigarette smoke and a cooking concoction of cumin, garlic, and clove. After we added the recommended amount of distilled water and waited about 40 minutes, the shirts emerged relatively wrinkle free, and the load smelled laundry fresh. Whirlpool is offering all shoppers a $40 discount on this device; use the code BZZ40 if you buy off the Fabric Freshener Web site.

A more labor-intensive approach to get my clothes clean for less would be to wash and iron them myself. These tips for effective ironing should make the task easier. Our report on irons reveals a number of capable models starting at $40 that combined performance and ease of use.

Another reason to consider the DIY route is that you can eliminate harsh chemicals; most American dry cleaners use the cleaning solvent perchloroethylene, or perc, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Perc has been linked to liver and kidney damage in animals and nerve damage in humans and is considered a carcinogen. Last year, California began a phaseout of perc in dry cleaning that should conclude by 2023. Read "A Perc You Can Do Without" for more information.

Choosing clothes designed to be wrinkle free could also help me cut down on dry-cleaning expenses. Our tests of permanent-press dress shirts revealed some good performers.

So I'll have to make some simple changes to look spiffy while being thrifty, but they should be worth it. Share your own ways to cut cleaning bills by leaving a comment below or on our laundry and cleaning forum.—Gian Trotta

Essential Information: "Making Laundry Less of a Chore" offers ways to clean your wardrobe.

Tip of the Day: Time- and money-saving steps for a better Thanksgiving

Now that Halloween and Election Day have come and gone, it's time to think about your Thanksgiving Day feast. Proper planning and innovative cooking appliances can help you save time and even money for the November 27 celebration. (Note to pigskin fans: The Tennessee Titans play the Detroit Lions in the first NFL game this Thanksgiving, the Seattle Seahawks take on the Dallas Cowboys in the second gridiron throwdown, and the Arizona Cardinals visit the Philadelphia Eagles in the nightcap.)

Your first step in planning this holiday meal is to get a head count so that you don't buy too much food. When working up a menu, include a few room-temperature dishes so your range and cooktop aren't overloaded on Thanksgiving Day; also prepare then freeze baked goods like cookies, pound cakes, and other desserts that freeze well.

Before you shop, check for advertised specials, hunt online for coupons, and if you prefer a fresh turkey, order it in advance. And don't be ashamed to ask guests to bring a favorite dish—some folks enjoy sharing their family favorites.

If you need to replace your range, consider one with convection, an oven fan that forces warm around and speeds up cooking for some foods. (Convection ovens cost about $150 more than standard models.)

With some convection ovens you can trim about 25 percent off roasting time. That's fast, but even faster appliances are on the market. In our recent turkey cook-off, an Electrolux Wave-Touch smoothtop convection range served up a 13-pound bird in 98 minutes and the TurboChef Speedcook double-wall oven did it in just 42 minutes; a conventional oven takes about 3 hours. Both turkeys were nicely browned, crispy outside, and juicy inside. Fast cooking doesn't come cheap—the Electrolux costs $2,000; the TurboChef, nearly $8,000. (See video, right.)

As you map out your holiday gathering, consider these tips from the National Turkey Federation and the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Shopping for a turkey
Choose the right-size bird. Figure on 1 pound of turkey per person if you're buying a whole bird and want some leftovers—that's a 15-pound turkey for a 15-person gathering.

Consider buying only a turkey breast. This could be a good move if you're hosting a small gathering and/or you eat only white meat. If you want leftovers, you'll need 3/4 pound per guest for a bone-in breast or 1/2 pound per person for boneless. (These are uncooked weights.) You could also ask your butcher to halve a whole fresh turkey; roast one half for Thanksgiving and freeze the other.

Look for product dating. Federal regulations don't require dating on the turkey, but some stores or processors list it. "Sell-by" means you should buy the turkey before the date. "Best if used by" and "use by" give you the last date recommended for getting the most flavor and quality, though this isn't a purchase or safety date. If you'll cook a fresh turkey, pick it up from the store only a day or two before cooking.

Pass on fresh prestuffed turkeys. You can get sick if a turkey hasn't been properly handled and the stuffing isn't fully cooked. The USDA suggests buying only frozen prestuffed turkeys that bear a USDA or state inspection mark.

Storing and thawing the bird
Place a fresh turkey in a pan. The pan will catch juices and keep your refrigerator clean.

Thaw a frozen turkey in the refrigerator. This method is safest. Keep the bird in its original wrapping and also place it in a pan to catch liquids. Allow about 24 hours for every 4 to 5 pounds. You can also thaw a turkey in cold water or in the microwave. But if you microwave it, you have to cook it right away. Follow the USDA's instructions for proper thawing.

The leaves on the trees are falling . . .

I just got back in from an early-morning walk with my 17-week-old dog, and one thing's clear here in my Northern New Jersey hometown: Fall-cleanup season has begun in earnest the last couple of days. The weather has been terrific recently, mild days with more of a late-summer everything-is-in-bloom upbeat feel than a winter-is-coming, let's-pack-it-in-for-the-season dread.

This morning, the brass dial thermometer on my deck reads a bracing 41°F; that's not too bad for October 18, but the leaves have taken the autumn chill of the last 48 hours as a sign to release their tree-bound grip and cascade toward the suburban lawns.

For me and countless others, the sudden shift to full-on fall will interrupt our regularly scheduled lineup of relaxing weekend programming and force us to grab rake, mower, leaf blower, collection receptacle, and myriad essential gear as we gather countless leaves from all the ash, locust, maple, sycamore, and oak trees around us.

Fall cleanup is not a terrible hassle for me, and I dig the vibrant splashes of seasonal color, but I am always looking for ways to make the job go faster and more efficiently. (The sooner it's done tomorrow, for instance, the earlier my twins and I can go for a bike ride.) Fortunately, a colleague of mine prepared this "Tip of the Day: Make faster work of leaf removal" last fall. I followed some of the DIY advice then and I'll use it again in the coming weeks. You should, too.

Good luck, all you leaf wranglers out there. If you have some can't-miss suggestions for ways to deal with leaves, add a comment below.—Steven H. Saltzman

Essential information: Read these other smart moves for fall cleanup. And if you're in the market for a new leaf blower, check out our ratings-based report before you buy.

Tip of the Day: Cut your heating bill, boost the value of your home

Combining no- and low-cost weatherizing tactics with government and utility incentives can help raise or at least maintain the value of your home and slash your energy bills. You'll also help protect the environment.

Several energy-saving projects can reduce your heating bills this winter, according to our calculations. For instance, insulating the attic or basement is typically inexpensive and easy to do yourself. Adding attic insulation can lower your heating costs from 5 to 30 percent, according to a U.S. Department of Energy study.

Another simple measure you can implement right now is to drop the temperature setting on your household thermostat(s). For every degree you lower the temperature, you can save about 3 percent on your heating costs. Also consider lowering the setting 5° to 10°F when no one is home and at night.

Weatherizing you home can save you up to 30 percent on heating. And tests performed by the Oak Ridge National Laboratory for the DOE showed that an aggressive weatherization program at your house can provide a 33.5 percent decrease in natural-gas consumption for space heating.

What's more, every dollar you shave off your energy bills with such home improvements can add more than $20 to the resale value of your home, according to a study by the Appraisal Institute. And a recent study by Seattle-based GreenWorks Realty showed that energy-efficient homes spend 18 percent less time on the market and sell for up to 37 percent more per square foot than conventional homes. (Consumer Reports has been leading the way on home-energy savings for decades, as detailed in "How to Cut Your Fuel Bill," from our August 1941 issue. As you'll see in this free PDF download—How to cut your fuel bill 1941.pdf—what's old is new.)

"We call efficiency the 'first fuel' that a homeowner consumes," says Suzanne Watson, policy director for the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy. "Once you get that flowing, it cuts down your use of expensive secondary fossil fuels."

Seal holes
Cracks and crevices at all levels of your home allow expensive heated air to escape from your home; in an older house, those nooks and crannies can be the equivalent of a 2-square-foot hole in the side of the house. (Picture that.) But, estimates the DOE, proper weatherization alone can cut energy bills by at least 30 percent. Some utility companies provide free energy audits to pinpoint problem areas at your home; you can also find certified professionals in your area through the Residential Energy Services Network.

If you want to do the work yourself, look for dirty insulation, a sign of air movement that reveals other gaps you must fill. Also install precut foam pads to insulate electrical outlets, an often-overlooked source of cold-air infiltration and make sure you insulate holes in floors where heating and water pipes emerge. If you have steam radiators, place foil-faced insulation behind them to reflect heat back into the room. If your doors and windows are structurally sound there is no need to replace them. But you should replace any worn weather-stripping around doors and windows to cut drafts, which can make you feel colder and cause you to raise your thermostat setting.

"Add Insulation to Lower Your Heating Bills" and "Stay Warm Without Getting Fleeced" offer additional DIY ways to seal gaps.

Pest Patrol: How to control moles in your yard

Moles, common in backyards throughout most of the United States, are a frequently cited problem in our Pest Patrol forum. The two most common mole varieties—star-nosed and eastern—measure about 7 inches long from nose to tail. They have broad, outward-facing pads on their front feet, small and narrow hind feet, and tiny pinholes for eyes; their ears are not visible.

Moles are voracious, high-metabolism feeders who use their large front paws to tunnel through the ground searching for ants, earthworms, and grubs; some species consume more than their weight in food daily. "They are pretty well adapted to life underground," says Craig Riekena, a compliance manager for Bell Laboratories, which makes the mole poison Talpirid. "Their fur lies and flexes against their skin in a way that lets them tunnel as if they're swimming."

You'll know you have a mole problem if you spot visible trenches and dug-up soil in your lawn and garden. Look for the raised ridges that characterize mole feeding burrows, along with molehills, which look like miniature volcanoes with plugged holes in the center. These are often located close to the deep permanent burrows where moles nest and reproduce.

Some molehills can be substantial enough to damage mower blades and housings. Flower beds are also at risk. "Since grubs gather around the roots of shrubs and flowers, moles scrape that dirt away and remove the plant's foundation and depriving the flowers of nourishment," says Stephanie VanSyckle, a spokeswoman for mole-trap manufacturer Victor.

Whether you take action against moles will depend on the extent of the damage they cause and your personal threshold for how it looks. Consumers Union Senior Scientist Michael Hansen notes that the ridges and molehills are mainly an aesthetic problem; you can tamp down the ridges and water them to repair damage. Hansen points out that moles' preferred foods include several soil pests, especially grubs, so getting rid of moles could exacerbate other problems.

To prevent moles from burrowing under or climbing into specific sections of your garden, experts recommend burying metal mesh hardware cloth 2 feet vertically below ground with another 6 inches showing above ground. Moles tend to tunnel closer to the surface in spring when soil is moist and go deeper in the summer. "Since moles have trouble burrowing through dense soil, arranging stones or dense claylike soil around a garden to a depth of 2 feet can also help," says Hansen.

Another natural defense—using a castor-oil mixture—has been touted by a poster in the Pest Patrol forum who says he hit on the idea after hearing that moles sometimes avoid fields where castor beans are planted. There's more than a bean of truth to that idea—a series of studies by three Michigan State University researchers revealed that one castor-oil-based spray repellent did keep moles at bay for periods ranging from 30 to 60 days.

However, researchers from Ohio State University and the University of Arkansas disagree with the MSU  findings, citing the short duration and effect of weather on the tests. Marne Titchenell, a professor of wildlife ecology at OSU, also warns that castor oil can harm insects, earthworms and other creatures that populate the soil.

Peter Sawchuk, a program leader in our Technical Department, reports good results using Spectracide's Mole Stop and Bonide's Mole & Gopher Repellent. "Both of these have worked well for me," Sawchuk says, "but keep in mind that you'll be driving the moles into the adjoining property, which might not endear you to your neighbor." Other posters are recommending cats as another natural way to control moles.

Use your sewing machine to make a Halloween costume

Batman, Indiana Jones, Iron Man, and Tina Fey, er, Sarah Palin are some of the popular picks for Halloween costume themes this year, according to the Sewing & Craft Alliance. Chances are you'll see a few McCains and Obamas, too, in search of candy if not votes around your neighborhood on Friday, October 31. (The costume shown is a monster from the organization's Web site.) 

If you're hoping to save a few bucks by making your own costume or want the challenge of creating a DIY design, know that you don't have to be a sewing expert to design a good-looking getup. "Many patterns are for beginners, and the instructions are clearly written and generally not complicated," says Linda Griepentrog, a spokeswoman for the Sewing & Craft Alliance.

To keep what should be a fun project from fraying your nerves, look for a costume that's easy and inexpensive to make—your kid will likely wear it only once. A historical-reproduction costume, for instance, might win praise from friends or a prize at a school or town contest, but it could be a lot of work.

No matter the outfit you pick, follow this advice from Griepentrog, who's been sewing costumes for decades:

* Factor in the weather. Don't choose a skimpy costume if the Halloween weather tends to be chilly in your town. Allow enough room for your child to wear clothes under the costume or consider making it out of an insulating fabric, like fleece.

* Design for safety. Avoid using dark materials and add reflective ribbon to the costume, especially important if your child will be trick-or-treating at night. Hem the costume short enough to prevent tripping and don't sew on a long tail for, say, an animal-themed costume.

Make large eyeholes in the mask. Or use face paint instead of a mask. If the costume material is flammable, remind your princess or pirate to be careful when near lit jack-o-lanterns. (Note: The labels on the ends of bolts of fabric might have information about flammability, especially if the fabric could be used for children's sleepwear. Unless it is specifically stated that a fabric can be used for children's sleepwear, you can generally assume that a fabric is flammable.) You'll find more safety advice for costumes in this post from the Consumer Reports Safety blog.

Look for more good costume tips on the Sewing & Craft Alliance Web site. And share your ideas for creative costume ideas by posting a comment below.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: We're working on a report on sewing machines for the March 2009 issue of Consumer Reports. Step into our labs to learn more about our ongoing testing of sewing machines and read our buying advice for these appliances.

Tip of the Day: Use a lead test kit to identify problems at your home

Lead paint is an obvious health risk and could even impact a pending home sale. If you are concerned about lead paint, buying a lead-paint test kit ($8 to $30) could be a good start.

A while back, Consumer Reports Senior Editor Ed Perratore had his circa-1950 Cape Cod home checked for lead by a certified lead-paint inspector, who used an x-ray fluorescence device to detect lead under multiple coats of paint.

Deborah Wallace, a senior project leader in our Technical Division, then marked the spots where the inspector detected lead levels exceeding 1.0 milligram per square centimeter, the level at which the federal government requires abatement in public housing. Later, under Wallace's supervision, Perratore tried seven home test kits on those spots and rated the instructions of each kit and how easy the kits were to use.

Every kit indicated lead was present at the marked spots. We then tested the kits in our laboratories by adding lead to latex paint and applying it to glass substrates. All of the kits successfully detected the lead; the video (right) shows which ones best combined accuracy with ease of use. For more details, read our September 2008 ratings-based report, which also includes coverage of radon test kits. (Ratings of lead test kits and radon tests kits are available to subscribers.)

Perratore was happy to learn that lead paint was only in limited areas of his home, even though his house was built 28 years before the federal government banned lead paint in 1978. "As it all turned out, only three exterior doors and their frames tested positive, and we want to replace them anyway," Perratore notes, adding that a basement stairway also tested positive, something he can easily stabilize. Everywhere else tested negative, including the bedrooms, the windowsills, the closets, and the playroom where his kids played for years.

"My kids have made it well into their teen years with no harmful effects from lead," he notes.—Gian Trotta

Essential information: If the results you get from a lead test kit indicate action levels inside or outside your home, get a quantitative analysis by hiring a certified lead-hazard assessor to determine the extent of the problem or sending samples to a certified lab. For more information, visit this page at the EPA Web site. And learn more ways to reduce your exposure to harmful chemicals, especially during projects at your home.

10 Questions for . . . Robert Lenney, Gutter Expert

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . . , Associate Editor Gian Trotta talks with Robert Lenney, a cofounder of California-based Gutterglove and a former certified arborist. In December 2007,  Lenney and partner John Lewis received a patent for their Gutterglove gutter-guard system, which uses a fine stainless-steel mesh stretched across anodized aluminum panels.

You've cleaned many gutters in your time. How should a homeowner start planning the task?
Always think about safety first; don't just go jump on the roof and start tossing out handfuls of gunk. Pick a day when it hasn't rained for a few days; if that's not possible, wait until midmorning, after the sun has dried out the roof.

Do you recommend any special clothing?
I recommend wearing durable pants like jeans and a long-sleeve shirt. Tuck your shirt into your pants—when you're up on a ladder or on a roof, balance is everything, and if a loose end of clothing catches on something, it can cause a fall. Tucking the bottom of your pants into your socks also protects against wasps crawling up your pants leg.

I certainly agree about the wasp hazard; I got stung on my last gutter-cleaning foray. What about gloves?
Leather rather than cotton or rubber gloves give better protection—there are a lot of sharp edges in a gutter. Also, you might encounter some very distasteful substances—pigeon droppings are a prime example—that can cause bacterial infections or leave a lingering smell on your hands. I also recommend some kind of eye protection, either goggles or safety glasses.

When it comes to ladder safety, what precautions do you observe?
There are some precautions to observe with all ladders. Try to set an extension ladder so about 3 feet of it extends above the roofline. While the ladder might feel secure when you step on it, there might be a gopher hole or loose soil under the leg and it could cave in as you climb up. So very lightly jump up and down a few times on the first rung to seat the ladder well before climbing up. If the ladder has a shelf, you can keep a five-gallon bucket on it, securing the bucket with a lanyard.

Inspect the ladder carefully to make sure it's working properly. Be sure the hinge arms on a stepladder and spring hooks on an extension ladder are fully locked. Check that the ladder's rungs and sides aren't  split or bent or loose and that screws and bolts are secure—ladders held together with rivets are usually better in this regard.

(Here are some additional guidelines from the experts at Consumer Reports: Ladders are categorized by weight ratings; we recommend that you get a heavy-duty type 1A. For gutters above 17 feet you should use a conventional extension ladder. Choose a fiberglass or wooden ladder where electricity is a factor, and remember that any ladder can conduct electricity when it’s wet. Extension ladders should be set up with the base 1 foot away from the wall for every 4 feet the ladder reaches up—that's 3 feet at the base for a 12-foot ladder, or roughly a 75-degree angle. For lower gutters, you can use a stepladder or multiuse ladder. No matter which ladder you have, always follow manufacturers directions for setup. For more ladder-safety advice, read our safety tips.) 

What other specialized tools should be used?
Don't use that heavy metal planter scoop from your garden kit or an old spatula. They can scratch steel gutters and give rust and opportunity to form. They can also damage the caulking used on seams of other types of metal gutters.

Those plastic orange gutter scoops sold in stores have one nice quality: Their tips are thin and flexible, so they conform to the contours of your particular gutter style. The downside is they're not as strong as a metal tool, so we go through a lot of them in a season. But the average homeowner should get a few years out of a scoop.

Tip of the Day: Fertilize your lawn this fall

After months of planting, fertilizing, mowing, and other chores, you might be ready to take a break from all the yard work.

But you shouldn't. Fertilizing your yard during the fall can be essential to maintaining a healthy lawn, especially if you have cool-season turfgrasses like bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass.

"Autumn is the optimum growth period," says Martin Petrovic, Ph.D., a turf expert in the Department of Horticulture at Cornell University. "The temperatures favor a balanced growth of roots and shoots, so the nutrients in the fertilizer have the best chance of doing their job." Petrovic recommends two fall applications based on the acronym SON, for September, October, and November: Do the first feeding in late September to early October, the second in November, around your final mow of the season.

Another helpful fertilizing mnemonic is "up, down, all around." That indicates the action of the three main ingredients in lawn fertilizer. Nitrogen promotes growth and greening ("up"), phosphorous aids root development ("down"), and potassium fortifies the grass against disease, cold, insects, and the like ("all around").

The numbers on a fertilizer bag, in N-P-K order, indicate the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, respectively, on a weight basis. For example, a 100-pound bag labeled 20-0-0 has 20 pounds of nitrogen but no phosphorus or potassium.

"Unfortunately, there's no magic formula for fall fertilizer," says Petrovic. You'll likely see 20-5-15 mix sold at home and garden centers, but the only sure way to determine your lawn needs is to test the soil. Private labs and cooperative extensions perform the service, including specific nutrient recommendations in their report.

Fertilizer bags should also indicate the nitrogen's release characteristic. Slow-release fertilizers contain water-insoluble nitrogen, making them suitable for early-fall applications. Later in the season, a water-soluble fast-release fertilizer is necessary, says Petrovic.

Recommendations for lawn fertilizers are usually given in actual nitrogen over a given area. As a general rule, you should apply no more than 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn if it's thin and weedy. "If the turf looks dense, you don't need to put down as much nitrogen," says Petrovic.

It's always better to use too little fertilizer rather than too much, since nitrogen and phosphorous not absorbed by your lawn can get washed into storm drains and watersheds. Known as nutrient pollution, this phenomenon is particularly problematic in coastal regions with loose, sandy soil. For more information, download the Environmental Protection Agency's June 2008 "Sowing the Seeds for Healthy Waterways" report.

Use the Purdue University Turf Fertilizer Calculator to figure out how much fertilizer you'll need based on the nitrogen concentration. Also, be sure to calibrate your drop spreader to make sure you don't overfertilize. And remember that using your mower's mulch setting can reduce fertilizer needs by a third since the soil-enriching nitrogen from decomposing clippings promote turf growth naturally.

Take care of your yard this fall, and you'll have less lawn maintenance to deal with come spring.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: See our fall lawn-and-yard checklist for advice on trees and shrubs, flowers and gardens, and how to use herbicides safely.

Buzzword: Precycle

What it means. Precycling represents the next generation in residential-waste management. It's no longer enough for you to recycle, separating cans and bottles for curbside collection and depositing unwanted electronics at manufacturer's consolidation centers: These days, the truly trash-conscious aim to minimize would-be waste from even entering the home. Hence the rise of the precycler, an environmentally minded relative of the EcoMom.

Why the buzz? Twenty years ago, there was just one curbside-recycling program in the United States, but by 2006, approximately 8,660 programs had sprouted up. The nation now recycles 32.5 percent of its waste, double the rate of 15 years ago, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Despite the gains, Americans generated 251 million tons of municipal solid waste (that's household trash) in 2006—almost 1,700 pounds for every person. In the European Union, the per capita amount is about 500 pounds less.

To slash the amount of waste you create and to reduce pressure on the nation's landfills, learn how to precycle with these simple lifestyle changes:

1. Buy in bulk. Cut down on packaging and use less gas on shopping trips by stocking up at warehouse clubs. Read our head-to-head comparison of Costco and Sam's Club.

2. Focus on concentrated products. This move cuts down on packaging and how much of a product you consume. In our latest test of laundry detergents, for example, many of the concentrated products cleaned just as well as conventional detergents.

3. Opt for recycled packaging. You can't avoid packaging altogether, but look for products that are made from recycled materials. Even some paint containers are fabricated from 100 percent recycled materials.

4. Dispose of disposables. Choose cloth napkins, towels, diapers, and the like to eliminate packaging and keep the resulting waste out of the landfill. And use washable dishware instead of plastic cutlery, cups, and plates. To conserve water, wash items in the dishwasher instead of by hand, and don't prerinse. (Read about the best dishwasher detergents.)

5. Bring your own bags. Forget the paper-vs.-plastic debate. Use your own reusable canvas or cloth bags when you shop.

6. Eliminate junk mail. Opt for paperless billing with your bank, utility companies, and the like. And put an end to all those unwanted catalogs by taking your name off mailing lists at the Direct Marketing Association Web site. Get more details by reading "How to Opt Out of Marketing Lists."

7. Screw in long-lasting bulbs. CFLs and LEDs are more efficient than incandescent lights, meaning fewer bulbs and less packaging.

8. Start a compost bin. This step falls under the "reuse" side of precycling. Tossing organic kitchen scraps and appropriate yard waste onto a compost heap turns them into nutrients for the garden. (Compost your leaves this fall.)

9. Conserve grass clippings. Instead of bagging clippings, use the mulching mode on your lawn mower to deposit them back into the lawn.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Read our special report on energy savings in the October 2008 issue of Consumer Reports, including a list of 25 simple ways to save.

How to make the perfect steak

While many folks do less outdoor grilling once  Labor Day has passed, I refuse to let the calendar influence my cooking habits. I'll happily grill away year-round and will fire up my Vermont Castings cooker in pretty much any weather.

But if Labor Day does signal your last hurrah for outdoor cooking this year, go out like a pro by following our expert advice for grilling the perfect steak (video, right). A number of my coworkers have tried the tips and report that they've never turned out better beef.

Don't miss our easy-to-make recipes for the grill.—Steven H. Saltzman

Essential information: If you're looking for a good deal on a gas grill, you might find lower prices in stores as the end of summer approaches. But before you shop, read our latest report and visit our gas-grills product page for more information.

Mold can be a problem for some front-loading washers

Front-loading washing machines are more efficient than traditional top-loading washers. Sure, you’ll pay a $400 to $500 premium over the average top-loader, but your electricity and water savings should offset the added expense over the lifetime of the appliance. Plus, front-loaders are among the highest-rated washers in our tests.

But front-loaders don’t have a spotless reputation. We’ve received myriad comments from readers about water left behind at the end of the wash cycle, bleach spotting, excessive vibrations, unhelpful service reps, and other complaints common to all washers. But one issue seems unique to front-loaders: mold buildup in the rubber gasket of the door and the resulting odor on clothes.

The mold problem is so widespread that class-action suits are targeting LG, Whirlpool, and Sears, whose Kenmore front-loaders are made by Whirlpool. The Maytag Neptune front-loading washer line has been part of a similar lawsuit, for which a settlement was reached.

One Consumer Reports reader had a Whirlpool Duet for four months when it and her family’s clothes began to smell of mold. She contacted the manufacturer, which she says told her to clean the machine twice a week with bleach, wipe the door down after each wash, and leave the door open to dry it out. “I work full time and have five children—four who do their own laundry,” says Merryl Nall of Collierville, Tennessee, says. “Needless to say, that would not work.” Whirlpool took back the washer, and Nall has switched to a top-loader. (You'll find more discussions about mold in washers in this forum.)

Mold, according to the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, can cause symptoms that include nasal stuffiness, eye irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation, fever, and shortness of breath. For people with chronic lung illnesses, mold infections can develop in their lungs. And exposure to mold can also bring on asthma attacks.

Suggested remedies to the mold problem abound. Whirlpool sells Affresh tablets as a way to clean washer residue and mold. Sears warns against using non-HE detergents, cleaners that could create conditions for mold growth. And LG recommends that once or twice a month you run a special hot cycle to which you add bleach to clean the washer.

Our advice:
• When washing, use warm or hot water unless a load requires cold.
• Wipe the door gasket and glass dry once you’re done washing.
• Clean the detergent dispenser and any attachments once or twice a month.
• Run a dehumidifier if your laundry room is damp.

If you see mold buildup in a front-loading washer, call the manufacturer for service and save all paperwork related to the purchase and service of your machine. In the Maytag Neptune settlement, plaintiffs eligible for restitution needed to document multiple authorized repair visits made during the warranty period and soon after the warranty expired.

In response to the many reader letters we've received, we're asking owners of front-loaders whether repairs they’ve had done to their washers relate to mold alone. We’ll report on the findings from the Annual Questionnaire, conducted by the Consumer Reports National Research Center, in future stories.—Ed Perratore

Q&A: Should I have my home tested before I put it on the market?

Should we test our older home for radon, mold, and lead before trying to sell it? Would this help us stand out in a tough market?

We spoke with three regional vice presidents of the National Association of Realtors—each with more than three decades of experience selling homes in up and down markets.

"Buyers want to get their own tests, and they tend not to believe the seller's tests," says Mary Davis, a real-estate agent in River Edge, New Jersey. John Veneris, a real-estate agent in Downers Grove, Illinois, adds that home buyers should "wait until the general inspection to resolve any problems."

Robert Bailey, a real-estate agent in Santa Cruz, California, suggests that before homeowners put their house on the market, they get an idea of what problems exist by doing a general and pest-control inspection, along with a visual inspection for such problems as mold. (Keep in mind that mold-testing kits proved generally ineffective in Consumer Reports testing. Lead and radon kits fared better although quality varied in some cases very widely between brands.)

But time and money invested in home repairs and regular maintenance can pay off when it's time to sell. Water damage and cracks in the foundation won't go away and could be a deal breaker. A general professional home inspection is not required, but recommended as part of the selling process. And a property condition disclosure form is required in 44 states and the District of Columbia, according to NAR spokesman Walter Molony.

Buyers should be aware that Alaska, Arkansas, Kansas, Vermont, West Virginia, and Wyoming do not require this form, but federal law mandates that any seller of a house built before 1978 must disclose if lead paint was used as an interior or exterior finish.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Find out why staging your home might help close the deal and how to get the most for your house in a soft market.

10 Questions for . . . Barb Schwarz, Professional Stager

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . . , Associate Editor Kimberly Janeway interviews Barb Schwarz, staging guru and CEO of Stagedhomes.com. Schwarz explains staging and how it helps to sell houses.

Who coined the phrase “home staging”?
I invented the industry 36 years ago. I had an interior design business and then went into real estate in the early ‘70s and was shocked at the way the houses looked. I started thinking about decorating houses to sell them. I used my theatre experience to set the scene. Staging is preparing your home so that the buyers can imagine living there with their own things. But most people have too much stuff and they don’t think to put it away. I’ve taught more than one million realtors and decorators about staging via my seminars.

But don’t potential buyers like a house that’s neat but lived in?
Just because you lived in a home one way isn’t the way you sell it. A home becomes a house, then a product to get top dollar. That’s why you do the staging—so the buyer doesn’t look at the stuff, but looks at the space.

What does a stager actually do?
First, I chat on phone with the potential client and then visit the home. I bring my credentials and pictures of my work. I take notes and photos and then I’ll write a proposal. I work on full homes, vacant homes. I have inventory for rent. Usually in lived-in homes you don’t have to buy or rent anything. Staging includes cleaning, packing up stuff, rearranging and moving furniture from one room to another, displaying art, and maybe even painting rooms.

Packing up stuff? What happens to the stuff?
The homeowners might have to get portable storage or box it up and put it in storage and get rid of it for now. Or they can have a garage sale or give things to charity.

Tell me more about staging. What are the steps?
1. Get it clean (stager arranges this or owner does it)
2. Make it clutter-free (seller or stager does it)
3. Use color wisely. Put soft colors, neutrals, on the walls and floors. This expands the size of the room. No red bedrooms, no purple. Put the punch in accessories.
4. Compromise. When you can, put the money in something that’s in poor condition, such as replacing a vinyl kitchen floor that’s in bad shape. But if the bathroom counter is pink, diffuse it and go retro by hanging black hand towels, putting up a new white shower curtain, and painting the walls white.
5. Creativity. Staging is not about spending money. I can stage homes with a ball of rope and a pair of clippers. Angle the bed so that it opens walls and makes the room look bigger. Use nice sheets and pull back the bedspread to show off the sheets.
6. Communication. What is each room communicating to the buyer? Do we have to change the message? Is the room calm, peaceful?
7. Commitment. The seller has to be committed and say they can do this and not be afraid of changes.

Protect Your Investment: Refrigerators

The average refrigerator lasts 14 years or longer—plenty of time to forget the spoilage and mess that can happen if it simply stops working. While you have few DIY options if it starts acting up, these routine maintenance tips can maximize its life and minimize repair-related down time:

Keep refrigerator and freezer gaskets clean to keep cold air in. That and holding open the doors as little as possible—especially with a houseful of kids—can also take a big bite our of your utility bills, since refrigerators compete with dishwashers as the biggest energy hogs in the kitchen (and both of them vie with plasma TVs for the title of top energy user in the entire house).

Check for simple solutions before calling a pro. The owner's manual typically includes a troubleshooting section. If the manual covers multiple models, be sure to mark which is yours, along with the serial number, while paperwork from the purchase is still handy—often a challenge later. Also be sure to save that paperwork as long as you own the fridge.

Serial numbers can be found on the inside walls of the refrigerator or freezer compartments, attached to the cabinet door jambs, or behind the kick plate at the bottom of the unit.

Protect your warranty by calling the right person. If you need help and the fridge is still under warranty, be sure to contact a manufacturer-authorized repair service. Otherwise, work done within the warranty may not be covered. Have model and serial numbers ready when you call, and get receipts for all work performed.

A specific serial number can also help you determine the age of your fridge. One Illinois-based energy consultacy has created this Refrigerator Dating Page that lets you input your brand, serial and model number to learn its exact age.

See the "How we test refrigerators" video above to get more insight into your icebox's innards. Even more model-specific expertise and empathy is available in one of the 141 topic threads in the Refrigerators section of our of our Appliances Forum.  Many manufacturer Web sites also often host forums with advice on specific models.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: Subscribers can see our complete advice recycling products that are beyond hope. Should you need to shop for a new refrigerator, start here.

Protect Your Investment: Lawn mower/tractor

Whether your mower, lawn tractor, or zero-turn-radius riding mower is new or old, some midseason maintenance can keep it cutting cleanly and reliably for years to come. Otherwise, you may face the same situation of one Keith Walendowski of Milwaukee, who shot his Lawn-Boy mower because it wouldn't start. (In all fairness, here is one opinion that insists the mower got what was coming to it.)

I asked Peter Sawchuk, our lead tester of outdoor power equipment, about the best ways to extend the life of a lawn mower or tractor, including zero-turn-radius mowers. They're a smarter, cheaper, and safer alternative to going postal in your backyard:

Clean the deck regularly. Make it part of your mowing routine to wash out the underside of the deck with a hose after each mowing. Clipping buildup reduces mulching performance and corrodes the metal over time, particularly when those clippings include fertilizer. Do it immediately after mowing, before clippings dry and harden.

Many tractors and zero-turn-radius mowers come with washout ports that accept a hose. Some models also accept retrofit ports. (Among walk-behind mowers, newer Toros are among the models that include washout ports.) If you have to wash out a riding mower manually, get a set of automotive ramps and simply drive the front of the tractor onto the ramps for easier access beneath.

An extra tip: After washing the underside of the deck, consider spraying it with an organic-based, non-toxic lubricant to help keep clippings from sticking next time around.

Keep blades sharp. Especially during the hotter, dryer part of the season, sharpen the blade(s) or have it done. Optimally, you'll do it at the start of the season and monthly thereafter—more often if you do lots of heavy cutting. Dull blades damage the grass as they cut, leaving unsightly brown-tipped grass in their wake. You'll also pay more in gas, since dull blades make your mower work harder and longer. Buying spare blades means your lawn won't overgrow while you get the first sharpened.

Check the oil. Walk-behind mower engines typically give out after 150 to 200 hours of use—or about eight to 10 years. But you can easily cut that lifespan if you let the oil level on four-stroke engines get too low on the dipstick or don't change the oil as often as the manufacturer recommends. Each time you mow, check the oil before you begin, and add more when the level drop to halfway point or lower. But filling above the "full" mark can also shorten engine life by causing the oil to foam and fail to lubricate critical parts.

Check the tires. For a tractors or riding mower, midseason is also the time of year to check tire pressure. As with car tires, those on mowers gradually lose air even without an actual leak, making the machine harder to steer and damaging the tires if air pressure gets too low. A rear tire that's low can also affect traction, making it easier to tear grass or slide on inclines.

Consider a new mower if your old one is tired. As with appliances and most products we test, it typically makes sense to replace rather than repair if the fix costs more than 50 percent of what you'll pay for a comparable new model. A timely benefit to newer gas mowers and tractors: They tend to run more efficiently and use less gas. If you're considering an electric mower for a smaller property, check with your local government for trade-in programs (like this recent one in Chicago) that let you swap a gas-powered mower for a less-polluting new battery-powered one.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: We tested more than 70 mowers and tractors (including zero-turn-radius mowers) in time for the early mowing season, but you can still find models in stores if you need to shop now. Here's advice on mower types, mowing safety, emissions, and robotic mowers. View Ratings of push and self-propelled mowers and tractors and our repair-or-replace charts (available to subscribers).

Q&A: How should I prepare for an earthquake?

We've moved to the Los Angeles area from the Northeast and just went through our first earthquake. What should we do to prepare for an earthquake?

Scientists are seizing the aftermath of the 5.4-magnitude earthquake that hit Southern California on July 29 as a "teaching moment." (See map below.) They've been doing hundreds of media interviews in a bid to better prepare the public for future earthquake activity.

As we note in our earthquake coverage on our Storm & Emergency Guide seismic activity is not confined to the West Coast. Follow our advice to gird your home so it can better withstand seismic shock.

For instance, you can bracket and brace bookcases, hanging pictures, chandeliers, and appliances to studs and joists; for a ceiling fan, ensure that the electrical box it attaches to is designed to support its weight and properly secured to framing; equip gas lines with automatic shut-off valves to reduce the chance of explosion and fire; and, if allowed by local building codes, replace rigid gas and water connectors with flexible connectors that can move during a quake.

We've also provided similar commonsense and cost-effective ways to harden your home against hurricanes, tornadoes and high winds, floods, and wildfires.

Emergency-management experts stressed in "Be Prepared for Weather Emergencies" that it's essential to have a plan to safeguard your papers and properties before a natural disaster strikes and safely evacuate your family. You'll find printable instructions on these preparations in our Storm & Emergency Guide.—Gian Trotta

Essential information: Read our product reports and expert advice if you need a chain saw or power generator as part of your emergency planning.

Earthquake map courtesy of the California Governor’s Office of Emergency Services.

Tip of the Day: Avoid accidents when grilling

Lots of us cook on a gas or charcoal- or wood-burning grill during summertime entertaining. Apparently some of us are spending too much time talking about our golf games, the presidential race, or a recipe for a killer dry rub instead of paying attention to the fire—more than 5,000 people went to the emergency room for grilling-related injuries in 2007, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Burns were the most common injury.

To avoid grilling accidents and keep yourself out of the ER, follow the advice below, compiled from our own experts, the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association trade group, and the CPSC:

• Check hoses and fittings for gas leaks when you first use your gas grill each year and a couple of times during outdoor-cooking season. Mix a small amount of dishwashing liquid and water in a spray bottle. Spray the soapy solution over connections and along the hose. Turn on the gas at the tank but leave the burners off. Bubbling at connections or along the hose means you need to replace the hose or fittings or possibly tighten a loose connection.
• Always grill outside and never in an enclosed area like the garage. Carbon monoxide could build up and make you sick or even asphyxiate you.
• Empty the grease pan, tray, or receptacle to decrease the risk of fire. Replace it after cleaning.
• Cook in a low-traffic area and away from any combustible surfaces. Sweep up dry brush and leaves. If your home has vinyl siding, be sure to keep a hot grill far away or it can cause the siding to melt and sag.
• Keep young kids and pets away from the grill when you're cooking and even after you're done—a grill can stay hot for up to an hour after you've cooked the last kebab. And never move a hot grill.
• Do not start a charcoal or wood fire with gasoline, and don't add lighter fluid after the fire has started; the flame can follow the fluid to its source—that being the container you're holding in your hand.
• When lighting a gas grill, keep the lid open to prevent gas from building up and causing what the HPBA calls a "flash off."
• Cook with long-handled utensils and flame-retardant mitts.
• Control flare-ups to keep yourself and others from getting burned. On a gas grill, lower the temperature. For a charcoal- or wood-burning model, raise the grid or evenly spread the coals.
• Put out a grease fire with baking soda and have a fire extinguisher on hand. If you don't have a fire extinguisher , use bucket of sand or douse the fire with water from your garden hose.
• Let ashes from a charcoal or a wood-burning grill sit for at least 48 hours before you throw them out.

10 Questions for . . . Katherine Steiger, Professional Organizer

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . . , Senior Editor Daniel DiClerico talks to Katherine Steiger, a professional organizer whose company, Right Stuff Organizing, helps households in the Boston area combat clutter. Steiger shares her tricks of the trade and favorite sources and explains how to keep things organized with kids in the house.

What are the most common sources of clutter in the home?
Mail is one of the biggest causes of clutter. It's relentless, and people just don't know how to deal with it. The first thing is to get your name off the mailing lists by visiting the Direct Marketing Association Web site. That will put an end to unwanted catalogues. Also, don't subscribe to things that you don't read.

I encourage clients to deposit unwanted mail directly in the recycling bin. It can take some time to get off the mailing lists and cancel subscriptions, so this is a good stopgap. If the mail comes through a slot in the front door, keep the recycling bin right there. That might not be the most elegant solution, but if you're entertaining you can always move the bin temporarily. The important thing is to stop the pile up of papers.

In general, what does it take to live an organized life?
I often say to my clients, "Be ruthless." The general rule is if you haven't used something in a year, you're probably not going to ever use it. Maybe there's that one roasting pan you use for Thanksgiving that you do need—you don't want to spend $100 every year to buy a new one. But if you haven't touched the thing in 10 years, you're probably not the one hosting Thanksgiving. So you really need to be honest with yourself. It's the same with clothing. If you haven't worn an outfit for a whole cycle of seasons, get rid of it. Here's where charities help. People always feel better donating clothing than tossing it in the garbage. There's a charity called Dress for Success that prepares out-of-work women for job interviews, including giving them an outfit. Charities are one of the organizer's greatest tools. OnlineOrganizing.com has clearinghouse of organizations that makes it easy to donate just about anything.

There are so many products out there geared toward organization. Are they useful?
People often think if they just buy the right stuff their lives will be perfect. You can spend $200 at the Container Store or Target, but if the products don't get used they haven't helped you. So first you have to figure out what you're going to be left with. Professional organizers use the acronym SPACE:

• Sort the stuff.
• Purge those items you no longer use.
• Assign the keepers a place.
• Pick a Container.
• Equalize—if one comes in, one goes out.

So you see, products are far along in the process. When the time comes, containers should be sized relative to what you have—little things in little containers and big things in bigger containers. And it's always better to use clear containers so that you can see what's inside.

How has the green movement affected home organization?
A big challenge I find is older homes that weren't designed to cope with modern recycling needs. Just figuring out a place where clients can keep a bin or basket is tricky. But there are a lot of retractable trashcans and recycling systems that can be tucked into a cabinet, solving the spatial problem. Sometimes products are the answer.

Another great green organizing resource is Freecycle. This community-based Web site allows you to give away items to or get them from other people in the network. Often you have something that you just don't need anymore and that isn't valuable enough to sell but may not fit within your local charity's donation guidelines. For instance, most charities don't take Legos and other toys for safety reasons. Freecycle is a way to keep them out of the landfill.

The kitchen is command central in many households. What are some tips for keeping one orderly?
The biggest step is getting rid of the stuff you don't use. We all have items crammed in the back of cabinets, the ice-cream or bread maker or the special late-night-TV slicer that we got as a gift 10 years ago. These items should not be taking cabinets space away from things you use every day. If you really do make ice cream once a year for the Labor Day picnic, that's fine. But move the maker to a shelf in the basement.

Once you've purged, you need to create centers of activity. That's a concept organizers use a lot, not just in kitchens. The goal is to create zones where you do the same kinds of activities. That might mean putting all your baking stuff together in a cabinet by the oven and keeping the things that you need for food prep by an island countertop. It's also important to create a landing pad in the kitchen, since it's usually the first and last point of entry for families. A dedicated spot for keys and cell phones will keep you from hunting around for them when you leave. It will also keep the counters clear. You can't let this prime real estate get cluttered with unnecessary stuff.

Tip of the Day: Safely apply herbicides

The best way to keep your lawn free of weeds is to fertilize, water, and mow it properly. You can also make your lawn more resilient to weeds (and drought) by allowing it to grow longer. A healthy lawn will resist weeds without your having to apply chemical herbicides.

But if you're going to use herbicides to deal with broadleaf plantain, crabgrass, dandelions (shown), oxalis, and countless other weeds, you'll need to apply it properly. To identify common lawn weeds, use our interactive guide. Keep in mind that spot application of herbicides will require the use of less chemicals, which could save you money and be better for the environment.

Herbicides are classified according to their use or mode of action:

Nonselective herbicides like Roundup kill all kinds of plants.

Selective herbicides like Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max Weed Killer for Lawns Concentrate kill some plants but not others. In your lawn, selective herbicides kill dicots (which include many common lawn weeds), plants with branching veins in variously shaped leaves.

Postemergent herbicides such as Roundup and Weed-B-Gon kill growing weeds and may be either selective or not.

Preemergent herbicides prevent some weed seeds from even germinating. They are typically used in early spring to prevent crabgrass. Most often these herbicides are combined with a fertilizer, as in Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer.

To learn how to safely and properly use granular herbicides and concentrated liquid sprays, read our expert advice.

Q&A: How can I identify green flooring products?

I want to replace my kitchen floor with sustainably harvested wood. I've seen all kinds different green labeling on flooring. How do I know whether a material is environmentally sound?

If you had lived during the 19th century, you wouldn't have had many flooring choices for your home. Chances are the lumber used would have been the dominant species from a nearby forest, and you likely wouldn't have had concerns about the condition of the forest.

Fast-forward to 2008. You'll now find a wide array of wood-flooring options, including many domestic choices, products that originate in exotic locales around the world, and a number of nonwood materials, as we detailed in our August 2008 report. (The same goes for decking products, as we covered in our July 2008 review.) In this time of greater environmental awareness, you can choose flooring—and hundreds of other wood products—based on how sustainably they were produced.

That's where certification enters the picture. Among the dozens of sustainable-forestry certification programs, the Forest Stewardship Council and the Sustainable Forestry Initiative are the most recognizable in this country. Both nonprofit organizations, which date to the 1990s, aim to promote sustainable forestry.

Forest Stewardship Council
The FSC was founded by the World Wide Fund for Nature, other environmental groups, and industry representatives. The FSC's global standards for forestry management include 10 environmental, social, and economic principles and 56 criteria. All products that claim to contain FSC-certified wood must undergo an independent certification.

In part because the standards are very detailed and represent a balance of interests, leading environmental groups, including the Natural Resources Defense Council and the Sierra Club, consider the FSC to be the most credible forest-certification program.

To identify 100 percent FSC-certified products, look for the FSC logo (shown) along with "100%." The FSC also has percentage-based content labels, which indicate a blend of FSC-certified wood and other controlled sources and/or recycled material. You'll find a list of FSC products by using the search tool on the Forest Certification Resource Center Web site.

Q&A: How can we get a new area of our wood deck to match the existing part?