Rebates and tax credits can lower appliance costs

While you might have back-burnered your plans for a kitchen remodel or a new laundry room, you can’t ignore an ailing dishwasher, a struggling refrigerator, or a washed-up clothes washer.

Fixing these appliances could be an option—see our repair-or-replace-it guide (available to subscribers)—but when you decide to replace appliances, consider more-energy-efficient models. This is one way to spend your federal economic-stimulus payment. And, as unlikely as it might seem, you can also turn to your utility company and the state and local government for some financial relief.

As of mid-May, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, maintained by North Carolina State University’s Solar Center with funding from the U.S. Department of Energy, lists 732 utility rebate and loan programs for consumers who buy energy-efficient appliances or other home systems. (The DSIRE's map is shown.) The site also includes details on 35 state rebate and loan programs and 13 personal-income-tax-credit or tax-holiday plans.

You’ll also fund information on rebate and tax-credit programs from utilities, states, and partners at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Partner Activities search; if you don’t see a program listed for your area, look on your utility bill for more information or contact your state taxation office.

These programs can offset the short-term acquisition and long-term operating costs of new appliances. Here’s how to take advantage of these opportunities:

Plug into utility companies’ rebates. To benefit from rebates and tax credits, you have to buy an appliance that falls into either Tier 1 or Tier 2 of the federal government’s Energy Star standards. For example, a Tier 1 rated-dishwasher with an Energy Factor (the number of loads that can be washed per kilowatt-hour) of 0.65 will use 339 kWh per year, while a Tier 2 model will have an EF of 0.68 and use 325 kWh annually.

In California, the Sacramento Municipal Utility District is offering a $25 rebate on a Tier 1 dishwasher and $75 on a Tier 2 model, provided you’re using an electric water heater in your home. In Oregon, the Columbia River Public Utility District ups the ante to a $100 rebate for a Tier 2 clothes washer that uses water from an electric heater, and $50 for one with water heated by gas, oil, or propane.

Brian Lips, a policy analyst at the North Carolina Solar Center at North Carolina State, notes that even if they don’t offer a rebate, many utilities will offer free pickup of an old refrigerator, saving you the disposal fee. 

10 Questions for . . . Joan DesCombes, Certified Kitchen Designer

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . . , Senior Editor Daniel DiClerico speaks with Joan DesCombes, CKD, principal of Winter Park, Florida–based Architectural Artworks Incorporated. Here, DesCombes, who received the 2008 Pinnacle of Design award from the National Kitchen & Bath Association in April, talks about her winning project, where kitchen design stands today headed, and what her clients want in their new kitchens.

Q. Congratulations on winning the 2008 Pinnacle of Design award. What separates you from other designers?

A. I think I’m a little unique for a kitchen designer in that this isn’t my first career. I was trained as a designer but then I ended up working in the fashion industry for many years. So I approach a kitchen almost like I’m dressing somebody. I start by asking a lot of questions about the homeowners’ lifestyle. The more I know about them, the more I can create a room that suits their personality. Coming from the fashion industry, I strive to design rooms that are functional first but also that people look good in. If you’re a blue-eyed blond I’m going to design that room differently than if you have dark hair and dark eyes.

Q. How is that philosophy reflected in the award-winning kitchen?

A. This kitchen, in Winter Park, Florida (shown), is in keeping with who that homeowner is. He’s a creative person and he wanted a kitchen that’s innovative and uses rare materials. The combination of stainless steel and raw wood on the ceiling gives the space a loftlike feel that’s in keeping with the rest of the house. The stone floor is the same throughout, enhancing the Zen-inspired fluidity of the space. The same stone continues up the side of the island for a dramatic effect. The lighting is also very dramatic, combining cable lights with hanging pendants.

Q. What are your favorite features about the kitchen?

A. When you look at most kitchens, they tend to be traditional in look and layout. This one wasn’t traditional from any standpoint. We reused a lot of existing materials, so while it isn’t green in the conventional sense, it’s largely recycled. The purple-concrete countertop was left over from a project we worked on with designer Fu-Tung Cheng, from Berkeley, California. We also used some leftover cabinetry for the pantries that flank the refrigerator, a Sub-Zero with a paneled front that matches the cabinetry. The fully integrated refrigerator is something we do all the time. It goes along with my kitchen-as-furniture philosophy. Homeowners need to understand that furnishing a kitchen is no different than furnishing a living room. Except that they’re going to spend a lot more time in the kitchen.

Q. In general, how are people today interacting with their kitchens differently?

A. Everybody’s lifestyle is different, and so every kitchen needs to be different too. Take someone who’s big in the organic-food movement. They’re going to need more refrigerator than freezer space, and they’re going to need that refrigeration in several different places throughout the kitchen. For a recent client who’s vegetarian, we added a set of refrigerator drawers to her food prep island. That’s where she keeps the fresh vegetables for the salads she often makes. This split configuration is also popular with parents with small children. It means they can keep the juice and milk next to where the kids eat breakfast in the morning.

Kitchen remodeling remains a popular project

My 84-year-old father told us a joke at the dinner table last Sunday (remember, this is a joke): “A guy cutting down a tree with a chain saw accidentally severs his left pinkie. His wife rushes him to the local hospital, where the emergency-room doctor explains to him, ‘You have two choices. We can replace the finger using expensive experimental microsurgery—it’ll cost $75,000—or you can live a perfectly normal life without the digit. Which would you prefer?’

“The guy tells the doctor he needs to quickly talk it over with his wife. The wife comes in, and her husband asks her what he should do. She ponders the question for a moment and replies: ‘I’d rather have a new kitchen.’”

There’s a raunchy version of that joke, but its point is the same: People love to remodel their kitchens, and some are willing to give up a lot to do so. And even in the midst of the economic slump we’re in, kitchen remodeling remains popular in the United States. In fact, kitchen projects are estimated to be the biggest source of remodeling spending in 2008, garnering 18 percent of the total home- improvement dollars American consumers will shell out, according to the Home Improvement Research Institute’s 2007 Project Decision Study. (Adding a bathroom accounts for 7 percent of spending; replacing a roof, 8 percent.) The average kitchen remodel in 2007 cost $6,800, according to HIRI.

Some other interesting findings from the HIRI study:

• 46 percent of U.S. kitchen remodels were completely do-it-yourself, while 62 percent were at least partially DIY.

• “Buy-it-yourself,” or BIY, remodels—in which the consumer buys the products and has a contractor install them—account for 21 percent of kitchen remodels.

• Women initiate most kitchen-remodeling projects. Still, men initiated 31 percent of kitchen remodels, up from 18 percent in 2003.

• The use of built-in appliances in remodeled kitchens is growing. (Read our recent Q&A on the repair history of built-in refrigerators.)

• Average spending on kitchen remodeling projects has not increased much over the last two years.

With inflation on the rise, how have consumers managed not to spend more on their kitchen projects even as prices are increasing? The answer might lie in the BIY trend: Savvy homeowners who shop around for materials and appliances are making wise choices in the products they use and are getting good deals.—Karin Weisburgh, Senior Research Analyst

Essential information: Be a smart shopper yourself and read our report on where to buy appliances.

What are VOCs in paint, and is more or less of them better?

At my area home center I’m seeing more interior paints whose cans say the finishes have low or no VOCs. What are VOCs and what do the numbers mean?

The seal has definitely been broken on the issue of VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, in paint. You can expect to see more brands touting their virtuous VOC content.

VOCs are solvents that get released into the air as the paint dries. (Other products emit solvents, including adhesives, cleaning supplies, and even some home furnishings.) VOCs can cause acute symptoms, including headaches and dizziness. The long-term effects are less certain, but according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, some VOCs are suspected carcinogens.

The federal government caps the VOC content in paint at 250 grams per liter (g/l) for flat finishes and 380 g/l for other finishes (low-luster, semigloss, etc.). However, some manufacturers have opted to comply with more stringent limits—50 g/l for all finishes—set by California’s South Coast Air Quality Management District. These paints include such products as Benjamin Moore Aura, True Value Easy Care, and Glidden Evermore. In the past, low-VOC paints have performed poorly in our tests, but these products all got high marks in our latest tests of low-luster interior paints; see our Ratings (available to subscribers) for the full details.

(The Ozone Transport Commission, a multistate organization created under the Clean Air Act, also has a model rule that limits flat coatings to 100 g/l and non-flat coatings to 150 g/l. It has been adopted by the District of Columbia and the following states: Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont and Virginia. Any sold in these places must be OTC-compliant.)

A handful of paints whose manufacturers claim they contain zero VOCs are now on the market. One is Mythic, which sells for $35 to $45 per gallon at independent dealers nationwide. If you’re a reader of shelter magazines, you’ve probably seen the print ads for Mythic, including the one shown here. Another zero-VOC paint is Freshaire Choice, a Home Depot exclusive that sells for $35 to $38 a gallon. Freshaire has adopted a more wholesome marketing approach: “It’s good for your family, and better for our world.”

The base of other paints might also be free of VOCs, but when any pigment is added at the point of sale, the VOC level climbs as high as 150 g/l, according to ICI Paints, which manufacturers Freshaire Choice. But the makers of Mythic and Freshaire Choice both say that the color pigments used in their finishes contain no VOCs.

Mythic and Freshaire Choice use a VOC-free color additive that is supposed to eliminate not only harmful solvents but also the telltale odor of a freshly painted room, according to their manufacturers. Carl E. Smith, CEO of the Greenguard Environmental Institute, argues that measuring emissions is as important as identifying the VOC level in a paint. “You can have a low count on VOC, but still have high emissions,” says Smith. That’s why Greenguard, which describes itself as an “industry-independent, third-party testing” organization, makes emissions central to its certification process. Currently, Freshaire Choice earns the Greenguard seal, as does Benjamin Moore Aura, whose low-luster and flat paints scored an excellent and a very good overall score, respectively; Mythic has not yet been tested by Greenguard.

Consumer Reports has not yet tested Mythic or Freshaire Choice but both will be considered for our 2009 report of interior paints. We don’t know whether these finishes will endure our typical hiding, fading, and stain resistance tests.

Remember, even though a paint might have low or no VOCs, it doesn’t do you any good if it needs constant touch-ups or reapplying.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: If you’re about to tackle a painting project, see our buying guide to interior paint. Also, read this post on avoiding common painting mistakes.

How to go green in the kitchen

The following article is reprinted from Kitchen Planning & Buying Guide 2008 (cover shown), a new publication from the editors of Consumer Reports. The issue ($5.99) is on newsstands nationwide until June 30, 2008.

“Green is an approach that’s going to stay part of our design ethic,” says Connecticut-based kitchen designer Mary Jo Peterson. She believes that reducing waste and energy, reusing, and recycling are keys to a greener kitchen. The ingredients? Products made from sustainable, renewable materials, energy-wise appliances, and tools that foster recycling. Here are some particulars on designing a green kitchen:

Appliances. The Energy Star label indicates that qualified models are even more efficient than the minimum levels established by the federal government. Also, if you don’t need a large oven or refrigerator, scale down to smaller models. You won’t necessarily have to forgo quality features. A tiny secondary oven also saves energy for mini meals and reheating.

Cabinetry. Some manufacturers produce cabinets free of formaldehyde, a carcinogenic gas, as well as cabinets made of particleboard or fiberboard with as much as 75 percent recycled or recovered material content.

Countertops. From recycled glass to paper, sustainable ingredients are making their way onto kitchen counters. However, they are typically pricey, available through architects and designers, and too new to evaluate long-term durability.

Flooring. Bamboo grows rapidly, reaching its harvestable height in six to eight years versus up to 80 years for some hardwoods. Cork is peeled off the bark of cork oak trees without killing the tree. It is soft and quiet underfoot. However, both materials changed color in our UV tests, and neither proved especially tough when it came to wear. Also, some are more sustainably harvested than others. Certification from the Forest Stewardship Council helps ensure that at least some sustainable practices are used. (Learn about the growing use of bamboo in the home.)

Lighting. Use energy-saving compact fluorescent lightbulbs, now available in warm tones, and less-versatile LEDs (light-emitting diodes) where possible. Like all fluorescent lighting, the fluorescent bulbs we tested contain small amounts of mercury, a neurotoxin, and should be recycled to prevent release into the environment. Contact your sanitation department to see if recycling is an option in your area, visit www.epa.gov/bulbrecycling to find recyclers and learn about other options, and read  “Where, oh where, can I recycle my CFLs?” from the Home & Garden blog.

Paints. Shop for interior paints that off-gas little or no volatile organic compounds (VOC). There are several readily available zero- and low-VOC paints from major paint manufacturers. Some may not perform as well as other paints, so be sure to check our Ratings (available to subscribers) for performance.

Water. If you are on a public municipal water system, check your Consumer Confidence Report, which lists what compounds are in your water. Or have your water tested if you are on a private well. If those reports uncover any contaminants you should invest in a filtration system. It’s cheaper than bottled water and less wasteful. For more information, read our latest report on water filters. For more information, read our latest report on water filters.

Essential information: For more information on Earth Day and greener living, visit our Earth Day Guide.

10 Questions for . . . Don Ferrier, Green Builder

In this first installment of a new feature on the Home & Garden blog, we put 10 questions to Don Ferrier, president of Ferrier Custom Homes in Fort Worth, Texas. Ferrier (shown below) is at the forefront of the green-building movement in this country.

Q. You’ve been called one of the godfathers of green building. When did you first become interested in energy-efficient practices?

A. In 1881 my Scottish grandfather immigrated to the U.S. because the state of Texas needed masons to build its new capital. He settled in north Texas and had 12 kids, one of whom started a structural concrete business building bridges. I eventually joined the family business and in 1982 a couple approached us about building an earth-sheltered, underground home.
    Imagine a bunker with concrete on three sides and the fourth, which typically faces south for passive solar orientation, made of glass. The result was an extremely energy-efficient structure that’s also storm-resistant and easy to maintain. That’s how I got started in green construction, although we didn’t call it that at the time.

Q. Nowadays you’re building more-conventional homes, although the emphasis is still on energy efficiency. What major developments have taken place in the ensuing quarter century?

A. There’s been a tidal wave of change. To give you just one example, in 1985 I built my first home out of structural insulated panels, or SIPs. Today, 95 percent of the homes we build are made of the material. (Editor's note: Only 0.5 percent of U.S. homes built in 2005 were made with SIPs,
according to the Structural Insulation Panel Association; 70 percent were built with conventional framing techniques.) The amount of knowledge about this sort of construction is no longer obscure. Public education is the other development. I’m a big fan of the LEED for Homes and the NAHB Green Building programs. Both organizations do a phenomenal amount of good and are tremendous resources for builders as well as homeowners.

Q. Can you describe the greenest house you’ve ever built?

A. That would be Heather’s Home (shown above) a prototype home that we started in September 2005 for LEED and the NAHB near Fort Worth. It’s named after Heather, my then 25-year old daughter, who came to me saying she wanted to build a very green home and wanted to do it on a tight budget. That was more a less our mission statement. It’s not the cheapest house out there but it’s far from the most expensive.

Q. What are some energy-efficient features of Heather’s home?

A. It starts with orientation. In our climate, that means controlling the sun to keep the house from getting too hot. A combination of trees, porches, and overhangs shields the glass portions of the house. They’re angled in such a way that during the summer, when the sun is high in the sky, solar heat gain isn’t an issue. But come winter, when the sun is lower in the sky, it warms the house. The house is built with SIPs, which make for an extremely tight, well-insulated house. Then there’s a high-efficiency air-conditioner unit and water heater. The lighting and appliances all have Energy Star ratings. And the outside of the house is a combination of stucco and low-maintenance fiber cement.

Q. What about indoor air quality? How does this relate to green building?

A. Here’s the dilemma. The average home is leaky. That makes it inefficient, but it lets enough outdoor air into the home that you don’t have to worry about indoor air quality. An energy-efficient home is very tightly constructed. But if you’re not careful about what you put inside, you’ll be left with polluted indoor air. So you have to watch what products you introduce into the home. For example, you have to watch out for the VOCs that are in many materials, including cabinets, countertops, carpets, stains, and paints.

Turn your bathroom into at-home retreat

Given the current depressed housing market, Americans are more likely to stay in their current homes than to move. But they’ll continue to pump money into their condos, town homes, and houses: U.S. consumers are expected to spend in excess of $170 billion on remodeling projects in 2008, according to Harvard’s Joint Center for Housing Studies.

The bathroom remains one of the most commonly fixed-up rooms. One trend in recent years has seen bathrooms converted into getaway spaces as consumers bling out their baths with whirlpool tubs, steam and multihead showers, high-style sinks, faucets, counters, and flooring, and other fixtures and surfaces once found only in high-end hotels and resorts. And, of course, the bathroom has become a multimedia center just like the kitchen, as manufacturers add music and video to their bathroom gear.

At last week's 2008 Kitchen/Bath Industry Show, we saw of the latest bathroom offerings, including the Hansgrohe Pharo Showerpanel SkyLine,  the Brondell Swash Ecoseat toilet seat, and the SonicSplash audio option from Lasco. Learn about these and other products in our video (right), featuring Bob Markovich, Home editor of Consumer Reports.—Steven H. Saltzman

Essential information: Use our expert advice when you’re shopping for a new toilet and refer to our Ratings (available to subscribers) to find the right model for your home. Also learn how to remodel a bathroom for less and avoid common project mistakes.

Bamboo is growing in the home

Consumer Reports has tested bamboo towels, bamboo flooring, and even bamboo plates, many touting the claimed green aspects of these products. And last week we saw all kinds of bamboo offerings at the 2008 Kitchen/Bath Industry Show, including Rio Grande Imports' Zoom bamboo bath sink, Totally Bamboo's bamboo countertop panels for kitchens and baths, and Teragren's Studio bamboo flooring.

Learn about the latest green-themed bamboo products in the video (right) featuring Bob Markovich, Home editor of Consumer Reports.

Q&A: Are built-in refrigerators more prone to repairs than other types?

I’m planning a kitchen remodel and want the look of a built-in refrigerator. But built-ins have been more likely to need repairs, according to Consumer Reports. Are these refrigerators a bad investment?

Our past surveys have found that built-in refrigerators were more repair prone than other types. But a recent analysis by the Consumer Reports National Research Center (CRNRC) shows there's been a change. When the CRNRC looked at reader responses to the Annual Product Reliability Survey about refrigerators bought between 2003 and 2007, it found that built-in refrigerators have not been more repair prone. Note that the survey did indicate that Sub-Zero built-in refrigerators have been repair prone.

Built-in refrigerators like the highly rated KitchenAid KBFC42F[SS] shown offer a sophisticated, sleek look—at a high price. (The 11 built-in models in our latest report range in cost from $5,200 to $7,600.) Built-ins align with cabinets and can be covered with panels that match cabinetry. Most built-ins are at least 36 inches wide and are about a foot taller than conventional refrigerators since their compressors are on top.

Many built-in refrigerators are bottom-freezers, but you’ll even find separate built-in refrigerator and freezer columns that you can place next to each other or install in different areas of the kitchen. 

Essential information: Before you shop for a refrigerator, read our buying advice and review our Ratings of bottom-freezers, built-ins, side-by-sides, and top-freezers (available to subscribers).

Protect Your Investment: Wood Floors

Part of the beauty of wood floors is that they change over time, taking on character and patina. You might even appreciate the squeaks and creaks that sometimes develop—as long as they’re not too loud.

But you still need to manage the aging process of your floors. Severely worn wood floors don’t look good, and when you sell your home, prospective buyers won’t see the “character” of the floors so much as several thousand dollars they’ll have to spend having the surfaces refinished or replaced. Here’s how to keep your wood floors looking their best.

Daily Duty
Sweeping is essential to maintaining the integrity of the finish. Regularly sweep wood floors with a soft-bristle broom. If the floorboards have beveled edges that trap dirt and crumbs, use the bare-floor option on your vacuum instead of a broom. (In our tests, canister vacuums perform better than upright vacuums on wood floors. The trade-off is they can be heavier and pricier than uprights. For more advice on choosing a vacuum, read our latest report and use our expert shopping advice.)

Occasional Tasks
Clean your floors periodically with a wood-cleaning solution. (If you sweep or vacuum diligently, cleaning a few times a year might suffice.) Which cleaner you use will depend on the type of finish you have. To test, apply a few drops of water in an inconspicuous area, says inside a closet. If white spots appear within 10 minutes, the finish is wax. If no white spots show up, it's polyurethane. Another way to identify a polyurethane finish is to scratch the surface (again, in an out-of-the-way area) with a coin or other sharp object. If the finish does not flake, it’s polyurethane.

Clean floors with a polyurethane finish with a solution of 1 cup distilled white vinegar and 3 to 4 gallons of warm water. (Or use a waterborne cleaner designed specifically for urethane finishes, such as Bona.) Damp-mop the floor damp—don’t soak it: Dip a terry-cloth towel into the solution, wringing the towel of excess solution and covering a standard flathead mop with the towel to clean the floor.

Clean wax-finish floors with a solvent-based cleaner and liquid wax designed specifically for wood floors.

Regardless of the finish, never use products intended for vinyl or tile on wood floors, as they can dull the finish and make the floors slippery. Be careful when using a sponge mop; some have hard metal edges that can easily scratch floors.

Preventive Measures
• Place a doormat outside entrances to your home to keep people from tracking dirt and grit indoors.
• Better yet, instate a no-shoes policy, which will preserve the floors. If you can’t ban all footwear indoors, at least ask people to remove high-heel shoes; they can have an impact of 2,000 pounds per square inch, enough to mottle the surface of a wood floor over time.
• Use plastic or felt protectors under furniture legs to prevent scratches. When rearranging furniture, always lift pieces instead of sliding them.
• If you have a wood floor in the kitchen, place a mat in front of the sink and range to prevent steady foot traffic from wearing bare spots into the finish.

Essential information: When you need to install new floors, read our latest report on solid-wood, engineered-wood, and plastic-laminate options.

International Builders’ Show Product Preview: Best by Broan IP29 Vent Hood

When you’re shopping for an undercabinet range hood, you’ll find a large variety of styles, sizes, and performance abilities as well as a number of very good $500 and under models. (See our latest report, “Over the Range.”)

Downdraft models are another venting option. These are designed to reverse the direction of rising smoke and fumes and exhaust them through ducts running beneath the floor. But our testing has shown downdrafts to be among the least effective venting systems at removing smoke and steam.

But if you cook at a kitchen island, venting can be more complicated—and expensive. Many overhead vent hoods cost $2,000 and up, without installation and ducting.

The stylish stainless-steel Best IP29 from Broan costs $3,300 to $4,800, might be a good choice if you need a vent hood. Sensor technology detects what you’re cooking and can turn on the hood automatically, at whatever speed and duration are needed, according to the manufacturer.

The IP29 features pushbutton LCD controls for speed and light settings and an Americans With Disabilities Act–compliant remote control, says Broan. The hood comes in 42- and 54-inch lengths and is 32 inches deep.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: See our Ratings of range hoods (available to subscribers) and tips for proper venting. To help you make your dream kitchen a reality, refer to our kitchen-planning guide.

Protect Your Investment: Stone Countertops

A quick scan of the real-estate listings will tell you the role stone countertops can play in marketing a home. “Beautiful luxury home with granite countertops,” read a recent listing in Maryland. “Updated kitchen with marble countertops,” related another from Seattle.

Part of the appeal of stone countertops is their permanence. But invincible they’re not, even with the protective sealer that many stone countertops receive before, during, or after installation. To maintain the appearance and value of your counters, follow this advice:

• Know your stone. Natural stone falls into two main categories, according to the Marble Institute of America. Siliceous stone is composed mainly of quartzlike particles, and includes materials like granite, slate, sandstone, and quartzite. Calcareous stone is composed mainly of calcium carbonate, and includes marble (shown), travertine, limestone, and onyx. These stones are more sensitive to acid than siliceous ones.

Being able to identify what material your stone countertop is made of will help you care for it properly. To determine the type, apply a drop of distilled white vinegar to a discrete corner of the counter. If it starts to fizzle, the stone is calcareous; if it doesn’t, the counter is siliceous. (If the counter has been polished or sealed, this test might prove inconclusive. )

• Avoid direct contact. Stone is very durable, but some materials, like limestone, are relatively soft and easy to slice, nick, and scratch, while others, like marble, get discolored more easily. That’s why it’s generally a good idea to use coasters under glasses, especially those containing alcohol or citrus juice; the acid from these liquids will etch or dull many stone surfaces. Also, avoid placing cookware you’ve just taken out off the oven or off the cooktop directly on your countertops; use trivets instead. And minimize scratching by putting dishes and flatware on place mats.

• Act quickly. Wipe up spills immediately with a wet towel or sponge, especially heavy-staining liquids like red wine. In our tests, stains that were allowed to dry overnight proved problematic for glossy and honed stones alike. If the mess is sticky or otherwise stubborn, use a dishwashing liquid and warm water. But avoid cleaning products that contain lemon, vinegar, or other acids, especially if your countertops are calcareous. Rinse the surface thoroughly after cleaning and dry with a soft cloth. Never use scouring powders or creams to clean spills—the abrasives can scratch the surface.

• Treat discolorations wisely. You can remove some surface discolorations with a mild detergent or an appropriate stone cleaner, available at hardware stores, home centers, and stone suppliers. You might need to treat deeper-set stains with a poultice, a pastelike material that you spread over a stain and leave there for over 24 hours. As the poultice dries, it wicks the stain up from the countertop.

• Reseal when appropriate. Even factory-applied sealers wear out eventually. If liquids are migrating into your stone surface, you might needs to reseal it. To test absorption, put a tablespoon of water right on the countertop; if the stone starts to darken after a couple of minutes, it is absorptive and would benefit from resealing.

Impregnator, or penetrating, sealers seep into the countertop, creating an invisible barrier beneath the surface. They are more common than topical sealers, which leave a visible film that might turn yellow under UV light. Penetrating sealers last for several years, whereas topical ones might need to be applied more frequently. Regardless of which sealer you use, make sure it’s approved for food-handling areas and if you’re applying it to kitchen countertops.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Before you decide on a new counter, read our guide to countertops and refer to the Ratings (available to subscribers), which evaluate materials by how well they resist stains, among other performance characteristics.

Photo courtesy of the Marble Institute of America

International Builders’ Show Product Preview: QuietRock Soundproof Drywall

Dedicating a room of a new home theater with the latest flat-panel TV and state-of-the-art sound system? Then the last thing you want to do is wake the kids while you’re watching the DVD or have your entertainment ruined by your neighbors’ noisy central-air compressor.

QuietRock drywall is a soundproofing wall and ceiling panel that manufacturer Quiet Solution claims will reduce up to eight times more noise than ordinary gypsum board. The QuietRock comes in varying thicknesses in 4x8-foot sheets, with additional sizes up to 4x12 feet.

QuietRock 510 (shown), suitable for DIY installation, according to the manufacturer, costs $40 for a 1⁄2-inch 4x8-foot sheet; the same-size panel of the 5⁄8-inch 530 costs about $130. The highest-performance panels are 1-3⁄8 inches thick.—Ed Perratore

International Builders'€™ Show Product Preview: Gem-Loc Premiere Edge

Laminate countertops have gotten better looking in recent years, thanks to the use of vibrant colors and patterns that mimic pricier materials. But their edge treatments have generally lacked innovation. The new Gem-Loc Premiere Edge, made by Loti Corporation, is a unique hybrid alternative to the standard-issue laminate edging with square or beveled edges.

The manufacturer claims Gem-Loc is the first edge material to combine a laminate face with solid-surface edging with rounded corners. The result is a near seamless molding designed to minimize the unattractive black line of square laminate edge treatments. By softening the transition, the edge treatment becomes a design element, rather than an eyesore, says the manufacturer. What’s more, says Loti, Gem-Loc can be color-matched to a countertop from just about any laminate maker.

Maybe most important, Gem-Loc is designed to be more durable and easier to install and than beveled laminate. That’s because the edging is applied slightly higher than the countertop and then filed flush, eliminating the precision required on beveled jobs.

This edge treatment retails for about $6 per square foot. Across an entire kitchen, Gem-Loc should run only $100 more than beveled edges, according to a company spokesperson.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Visit our kitchen-planning guide for expert advice on countertops and many others elements of kitchen remodeling.

International Builders'€™ Show Product Preview: American Standard FloWise Toilet

The latest low-flow toilets use even less water: California now requires that a residential toilet use 1.28 gallons per flush (gpf), 20 percent less than the 1.6-gpf standard in effect elsewhere nationwide.

The American Standard FloWise (shown) is among the first commodes to meet the new California standard without requiring a second, water-saving mode. It also carries the EPA's WaterSense label for high-efficiency toilets—€”akin to an Energy Star qualification—€”and is eligible for rebates in drought-prone areas.

This gravity-fed toilet is green without being wimpy, claims American Standard, thanks to a funnel-shaped, piston-action flush valve that helps accelerate incoming water; the valve is similar to the one on the company'€™s Champion models, a line of gravity toilet that did well in our last toilet report.

The FloWise retails for $395 in white and is backed by a 10-year limited warranty. We'll see how these American Standard models and other lower-flow toilets fare in our next toilet test.—€”Bob Markovich

International Builders' Show Product Preview: Kohler Express Vanities

A vanity will add style and storage to your bathroom, but getting that bulky piece home from the store, schlepping it to its location, and assembling the piece can prove challenging.

The Kohler Express installation system, available on the Alberry, Chalkstripe, Clermont, and Westmore vanities, addresses those inconveniences. This patented setup (shown partially open) uses a patented hinge design that allows you to stow the vanity relatively flat in your car, lift it more easily through a doorway, and essentially snap it into shape. Even better, there'€™s no charge for delivery and installation.

Vanities with the express system costs $450 to $700; countertop and sink are sold and installed separately. The vanities are available at Kohler showrooms and at major retailers nationwide, including Home Depot and Lowe'€™s.—€”Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Our report on bathroom makeovers includes information on countertop materials and a primer on how to avoid common remodeling blunders.

Tip of the day: Avoid common painting mistakes

You don’t have to be a pro to get high-quality results. But cutting corners will produce a sloppy job, and even the highest-rated paint will fail if you don’t apply it properly.

To make your work last, DON’T . . .

Ignore prep work. “Surface prep is 85 percent of the job,” says Debbie Zimmer, director of communications and media relations at the Paint Quality Institute, which educates consumers and pros alike about buying and using paint.

• To ensure a smooth, even, and secure finish, start by wiping dust, dirt, and grime from the surface with a damp cloth.

• Tackle stubborn stains with a solution of 3 parts water to 1 part bleach.

• Fill dings and nail holes with plaster compound and patch cracks with painter’s caulk.

• Apply a primer coat to naked wood surfaces, new drywall, walls painted a dark color, and deep-set stains, such as those caused by tobacco smoke or water damage.

Skimp on materials. A gallon of paint covers roughly 400 square feet of surface. A quart should suffice to paint the molding and trim in a 100-square-foot room. Don’t eke out the job by applying too little paint—you want to try to apply the same amount to all surfaces. You can use properly stored leftover paint for future touch-ups. Click here for guidelines on paint storage.

Use the wrong tools. Cheap brushes and rollers could leave bristles and fibers on the wall, and they won’t load and distribute paint properly. A synthetic-bristle brush is best for latex-based interior paints. (You’d use a natural-bristle brush for an oil-based, or alkyd, paint.) Choose brushes whose bristles have split ends that taper to the tip. For rollers, choose a synthetic-fiber, seamless roll with a short nap; 1⁄16 to 1⁄4 inch is recommended for smooth plaster, wood, and metal surfaces.

Overapply paint. An A+ paint job requires a steady, measured hand. Start by cutting in a 2-inch strip around windows, doors, corners, and edges. Then fill in the fields with a roller. Follow a W-shaped pattern, which will distribute paint evenly and prevent drips and lap marks from marring the surface and always blend wet edge back into previously painted section.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Read our March 2008 report on interior paints, including the latest information on one-coat finishing and details on volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in paint.

How to hire a contractor

While most home contractors out there are legit and do quality work, the rogues gallery of bogus builders, careless carpenters, pitiful plumbers, and the like is a vast one.

Some of your friends and neighbors likely can relate cautionary tales of purloining pros, and perhaps you’ve even been the victim of a contractor whose work you cursed.

I’m sure you don’t want to revisit the miserable days when your project got derailed by an incompetent contractor, but “The Pros and Cons,” in the January 2008 issue of Angie’s List magazine, is a worthwhile read. The article (scroll to pages 12-21) features a nationwide who’s who of the top contractors and their sketchy counterparts.

The story won’t make up for any nightmares you’ve endured, but it might reassure you that genuine pros are out there. (Thousands of people use Angie’s List each month to report their customer experience in 250 categories, including home improvement and handymen. A membership fee gets you access to first-hand accounts from members and A to F ratings in several areas, including price, quality, punctuality and professionalism.)

To avoid hiring the contractor from hell, follow our advice:

Plan for success. Get three bids to gauge the going rate for work. But don't jump at the lowest bid; our surveys have shown that people who hired the lowest bidder generally got poorer work.

Get an estimate. It should list product, material, and labor costs and a timetable. Material and product allowances should give prices and quantities. Compare services and prices before making a final decision.

Choose pros you know. Our surveys have indicated that people who hire contractors they had worked with before were happier and had fewer time and cost overruns than those who hired someone new. While readers who hired pros recommended by a friend or neighbor were more satisfied than those who hired strangers, they faced as many delays and extra costs.

Get references from recent and older jobs. Reputable contractors will be happy to provide names and contact information for satisfied customers. Then check the work to see how it’s holding up.

Look for proper licensing and insurance. Make sure the contractor is licensed to do business in your state and that he has proper general liability and workers-compensation insurance. Check with your local government for permit requirements and confirm with the contractor who is responsible for paying for permits. Also visit the Contractor's License Reference Site to learn about licensing requirements in your state and to find out if a contractor is licensed.

Check the Better Business Bureau for filed complaints. Also contact your state's attorney general's office. Look for contact information in your state here. (Should you encounter a problem or fraud later on, report problems or fraud to your state attorney general.)

Do the hiring yourself. Your project is more likely to stay within budget and on time if you hire pros yourself than leaving the hiring and supervising to a general contractor.

Obtain a contract. A written contract will specify what will be done to complete the job, associated costs, and the payment schedule. Never sign a blank contract or one with blank spaces.

Stick with the plans. Making changes to plans after work begins could lead to cost overruns and delays.

Pay by check. Write out the check to the contracting company rather than to an individual. A reasonable down payment is 30 percent of the total project cost to be paid upon initial delivery of materials.

Make final payments only when the work is completed to your satisfaction. A reputable contractor will not threaten you or pressure you to sign documents if the job is not finished properly.—Steven H. Saltzman

Universal design can make a safer bathroom

An estimated 34 million Americans care for a parent, relative, or family friend over the age of 50, according to a recent survey conducted by National Alliance for Caregiving, a research and policy organization, and Evercare, a provider of health plans for frail elderly, disabled, and chronically ill Americans. That number is expected to grow as more baby boomers move into retirement.

If your parents will be moving in to your home, you might want or need to accommodate them by remodeling a bathroom following universal-design guidelines. (See our Bed & Bath page for more information on bathrooms.)

Before you start your project, read the advice here from Mary Jo Peterson, a universal-design expert in Brookfield, Connecticut, on how you can make the bathroom work for everyone in your family:

DOOR
Simple solutions. Switch a doorknob to a lever and remove or countersink the doorsill between rooms. Also, since a wheelchair typically requires a doorway 34 to 36 inches wide, install an open-out door or fold-flat hinges—they might provide a wide enough access.

Upgraded option. Use twin 18-inch pocket doors, which slide into the wall on each side.

FAUCET
Simple solutions. Avoid rounded, smooth faucet controls, which can be difficult to grip. Look for antiscald features.

Upgraded options. Faucets with wide levers or a spout with a single-handle control look good and are easiest to use.

SHOWER STALL
Simple solutions. Use a curtain for stand-alone showers. Angle the floor to direct water toward the drain. Put controls near the entryway so they’re reachable from outside. Use textured tiles, grab bars, and a seat.

Upgraded option. A built-in seating platform adds security and a spalike feel. Read "Go for the flow" for  information on showerheads.

SINK
Simple solutions. If the bathroom has two sinks, consider adding one that’s taller to reduce bending. To allow adequate knee space beneath, a sink should be at least 29 inches high by 30 inches wide.

Upgraded options. Four-legged consoles, including recessed or countertop bowls, are a trendy alternative to vanities. A wide console can accommodate a wheelchair, as can a wall-mounted sink and a sink counter that leaves space below itself.

SUPPORT GRIPS
Simple solution. Use grab bars in the toilet and bath areas. Anchor them in 3/4-inch-thick plywood behind the drywall.

Upgraded options. Some companies offer grab bars in a range of colors. These bars are made of nonslip nylon, a better choice than metal.

TOILET
Simple solutions. Install a taller, comfort-height toilet; it’s a plus for anyone with a bad back or weak leg muscles. And an elongated bowl is more versatile than a round one. Remember, a wheelchair requires a space at least 30 inches wide by 48 inches deep in front of the toilet.

Upgraded options. A wall-mounted toilet can be installed at any height. An open-ended toilet-paper holder is simpler to use than a spring-loaded holder. Learn more about toilets in "Comfortable and efficient."

TUB
Simple solutions. Build a tub into a “deck” someone can sit on before getting into the water. Put controls and faucets on the sides of the tub, and install a hand-held showerhead on the wall or deck.

Upgraded options. Ease entry to the tub by installing grab bars and an undermount tub.

More safety information: Smooth, glazed ceramic tiles can be slippery in the wet bathroom environment. To prevent slips and falls, be sure the floor, shower area, and tub have slip-resistant finishes. Also consider adding a rubber bath mat or stick-on strips. To prevent burns from hot water, install antiscald valves in the shower or tub.

Taking the “LEED” on green home building

The U.S. Green Building Council, a nonprofit organization that promotes sustainable construction, recently launched a new green-home certification program for residential housing.

Known as LEED for Homes, the voluntary program is one of several green-building rating systems the USGBC has developed for commercial, government, and residential buildings. Under the LEED program, the USGBC has certified more than 1,000 buildings and some 300 pilot-phase homes worldwide, and more than 16,000 new projects are under way. Well-known LEED-certified commercial buildings, such as New York City’s 7 World Trade Center and the new Hearst Tower, have helped to build buzz around the program.

LEED—leadership in energy and environmental design—is a set of USGBC-verified green-building standards in eight categories: innovation and design; location and linkages to the larger community; sustainable sites; water conservation; energy efficiency; materials and resources; indoor air quality; and consumer education.

For a home to earn LEED certification, it must be newly built or substantially gutted and renovated and meet a minimum number of criteria. Depending on how many criteria are met, a home is awarded a certified, silver, gold, or platinum rating. (The house shown is a 2,250-square-foot LEED-silver home in Freeport, Maine.) While more than 70 other local or regional green home building programs exist in the U.S., not all require documentation and independent verification.

At a minimum, for example, a LEED-certified home must be 15 to 20 percent more energy-efficient than a conventional one, lowering energy costs by the same amount. Not surprisingly, such benefits, along with a home’s rating, are touted as selling points.

Factoring in the savings from lower energy and water bills, the overall cost of owning a LEED home is comparable to owning a conventional one, claims the USGBC.

While the rating is ultimately determined for the house as a whole, specific elements can help a home earn points toward certification. The USGBC doesn’t endorse individual product brands, but if a product meets or exceeds the green-building criteria in the LEED standards, that product can be used. Consider LEED’s standard for windows, which specifies that they meet or exceed Energy Star requirements in order to earn points for windows. The Energy Star-qualified Andersen and Pella windows in our October 2007 window report fit that bill. (CR Quick Recommendations and Ratings are available to subscribers.)

If you’re interested in buying or building a LEED home, contact a LEED for Homes provider in your area. To learn more about LEED and other green-building programs, visit the LEED for Homes Web site and GreenerChoices.org, our free environmental Web site.—Kristi Wiedemann, Science and Policy Analyst, GreenerChoices.org

Essential information: See the USGBC’s Green Home Guide to learn more about building an energy-efficient abode.

Avoid remodeler’s remorse

When you’re an editor at Consumer Reports, cocktail-party chatter often turns to subjects the magazine covers—kitchen appliances and remodeling, HDTVs, family sedans, and the like. So it was last Saturday night when, following the usual pleasantries, an old friend updated me on her search for the perfect countertop. After months of deliberation, she’d settled on honed slate.

“Nice,” I said, thinking how the matte texture and blue-gray tone of that slate would be a perfect fit in her contemporary kitchen.

“Actually, no,” she countered.

Although her local stone supplier had insisted that all of the slate it sells resists staining, my friend decided to conduct her own tests on her four top choices. Acid and many counter types don’t mix, so she put a few drops of lemon juice on each slate sample and let them sit overnight. The next morning, two of the four samples, including her favorite, were visibly stained.

She contacted the supplier, who disputed the results and said he’d run his own tests. The next day he called back, his voice a bit obscured by a mouthful of humble pie: Two of the samples had in fact reacted to the lemon juice. His  explanation was that the slate in question had come from a different quarry, one used primarily in the production of roof tiles.

Disappointed, my friend was back to square one, her desire to find the perfect countertop redoubled. As someone who covers home products professionally, even I learned from the cautionary tale.

First and foremost: Due diligence is the secret to smart remodeling. Our product reports, buying advice, and ratings offer excellent starting points when you’re choosing a countertop, flooring, or the kitchen sink.

But don’t stop there. Whenever possible, get samples of your top choices. Live with them for a few days, seeing how they look under different light conditions. (This is especially important with interior paint.) And if you have any doubts about performance, don’t be afraid to conduct your own tests. “I tell my clients to cut on stone samples, scratch them, spill wine on them, or ink or cooking oil,” says South Carolina kitchen designer Duval Acker, ASID, CKBD. Every home is unique, so you need to create the precise conditions a material will be subjected to.

As for countertops made from slate or any other stone, slabs do differ from quarry to quarry. “There are 6,000 varieties of materials, and every one of them is unique,” says Chuck Muehlbauer, technical director of the Marble Institute of America. That’s why it’s important for you to work with a reputable distributor who really knows the specific stones it carries. The Marble Institute of America recently launched a nationwide accreditation program to help you find a reputable dealer in your area on its Web site.

I’ll be sure to mention this to be my friend the next time I see her.—Daniel DiClerico

Here’s the key to the different counter types in the image above: 1. Quartz (aka engineered stone).
2. Granite. 3. Laminate. 4. Stainless steel. 5. Solid surface. 6. Marble. 7. Ceramic tile. 8. Concrete.
9. Limestone. 10. Butcher block.

This Old Haunted House

Beware, all ye remodelers!

Turns out, your home can kick up more than dust. Just in time for Halloween 2007, the Web site for This Old House has reposted last year’s infinitely entertaining and informative Haunted Houses slide show, which featured 14 infamous domiciles bedeviled by both ghosts and contractors. Among the spooky overhauls you'll find online are:

Hampton Lillibridge House
Bought by ill-fated antiques dealer Jim Williams of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil fame, the Hampton Lillibridge House is known for eerie accidents and benign spectral activity. A worker was crushed during the relocation of the Savannah, Georgia, home, originally built in 1796, and Williams died of heart failure in the same spot where he allegedly shot and killed his former assistant. Continued spooky happenings at the Georgian-style home include the disembodied sounds of footsteps and a Dixieland band and well-dressed spirits roaming the premises.

Makens Bemont House (shown)
This gambrel-roofed abode in East Hartford, Connecticut, built in 1761, houses a hard-working contractor you can’t hire within this realm. Huguenot saddle maker Makens Bemont and his family lived in the house from the 1760s to the 1820s. The restoration of the house 150 years later brought on the ghostly sounds of hammering and falling bricks.

Wildflower Inn
While converting their 1898 Colonial Revival in Falmouth, Massachusetts, into a B&B, the owners apparently awoke a young female ghost when they moved some attic contents into a guest room. The ghost, nicknamed Ada, reportedly fills her afterlife hours by moving workers' tools, pulling mirrors off the walls, and flushing toilets and turning on the faucets. (If you’re reading this, Ada, all that water wasting is terribly ungreen.)—Helen A.S. Popkin

Essential information: Avoid earthly renovation nightmares by following our expert advice and recommendations. Whether you need a handyman for a simple repair or are planning a full-scale remodel for your kitchen, you have to make wise hiring decisions. After all the effort you've put into buying your home or designing your dream kitchen, don't be less than thorough when booking pros for your jobs.

Photo courtesy of the Historical Society of East Hartford

Tip of the day: How to hire a painter

Most homeowners hire a contractor to repaint the exterior of their home. Follow our advice to help ensure a high-quality job, whether you’ll have your house painted this fall or next spring.

Meet the pros. Call in at least three different contractors for your job. (Friends and family are good reference sources.) And be home for the initial meeting with them. That way, you’ll know how much time each contractor took to assess the condition of your home. The longer he takes, the more realistic the estimate you’ll get. Even an experienced painter will need more than a quick walk around your house.
    Also ask each contractor about the size of his crew and the members’ experience level.

State your expectations. The number of coats a painter applies isn’t the only factor in determining the quality—and price—of the project. Preparation is also key. If you want a surface that’s free of unevenness from past paint jobs, tell the contractors—and be prepared to pay extra. But if you can live with some imperfections, agree on what level of prep is acceptable and what isn’t.

Get estimates. Seek a written estimate from each contractor. It should include a breakdown of labor, material costs, the number of coats of primer and paint, the brand and model of materials, and a detailed description of the amount of surface preparation that will be done.

Check references and past work. Get a list of references from each contractor and call them to find about their experience with the pro. A history of positive references is a good sign. Also examine jobs the painters did several years ago to see how their work is holding up. Use recent projects to check the skill of their current crews.

Consider credentials. Before you hire someone, consider his credentials. Membership in a trade or local business group, for example, isn’t a guarantee of quality work, but it shows a level of commitment and reliability on his part. Also verify whether the pro has the appropriate license(s). (You’ll find the licensing information in your state at the Contractor’s License Reference Site. Also check with the Better Business Bureau, the attorney general’s office in your state, or a local consumer-affairs agency to learn whether the contractor has a history of unresolved complaints.

Obtain a complete contract. The contract should include all the contractor’s key information: name, address, office and cell numbers, and license number, plus whatever details were in the estimate. Make sure the contract clearly states what is and is not included in the job.
    Get a copy of the painter’s liability and workers’ compensation insurance certificates. If he doesn’t have coverage, you could be on the hook if, for example, the crew drops a ladder on your neighbor’s car or a crew member gets hurt on t