Tip of the Day: Find the right caulk for your home project

As you might have already encountered in the caulk aisle at your local home center, there's a dizzying array of caulking products in tubes, cartridges, and aerosol cans. All those choices could make finding the right caulk for the job a hassle. The chart below covers the major categories of caulk and can help you find the best material for your project.

Why use caulk? When the right type of caulk is applied properly, it can protect your home from the elements and make it more energy efficient or prevent leaks from the shower or tub. What's more, our stories on five key home repairs and smart ways to cut your energy use reveal how important caulk can be.

Modern caulk formulations are relatively inexpensive and many are easy to apply, simple to paint over, and a snap to clean up. Althogh the 30 percent federal tax credit on purchases of weatherization materials doesn't apply to caulking, state incentives are often available.

Ed Pollack, a team leader for residential-energy-efficiency research at the U.S. Department of Energy, recommends you use water-based foam sealants since they're easier to clean up. And he urges you to start caulking from the outside first. "You want to seal openings in your home's exterior that could allow water and cause mold or ruin the caulking you've done to interior spaces."—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Consider weatherizing your attic to save money and boost comfort at home year-round. Our Energy Saving & Green Living guide offers many ways to weatherize your home and make it more efficient. And the Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs provides illustrated instructions for key do-it-yourself weatherization projects, and with the purchase of the book you get a free 30-day trial of ConsumerReports.org, including access to the ratings.

Type of Caulk	Best Use(s)	Pros	Cons	Price
Acrylic tub and tile	To seal kitchen and bathroom fixtures.	Flexible; mildew resistant; cleans up with water.	Not paintable; not as durable as 100% silicone.	$4 and up per tube
Butyl rubber	To seal and fill around windows and skylights and around flashings and in gutters to seal dissimilar materials (glass, metal, plastic, wood, and concrete). More flexible (can stretch in multiple directions) than silicone. Good in areas that experience high temperature variations. Formulations with with asphalt are best for roofing repairs.	More flexible (can stretch in multiple directions) than silicone; can be painted after curing one week. Good in areas that experience high temperature variations. Formulations with asphalt are best for roofing repairs.	Does not adhere well to painted surfaces; shrinkage varies; might require two applications. Can be toxic; precautions must be taken and requires solvent cleanup.	$3.50 and up per tube
Concrete and mortar repair	To repair cracks in concrete and damaged masonry and mortar.	Can be shaped to fit before drying; remains flexible, cleans up with water, dries to color of concrete mortar or can be painted.	Not recommended for horizontal surfaces where water could accumulate.	$4.50 and up per tube
Latex	To seal gaps in exterior walls and plug holes and fill gaps in interior walls and woodwork before painting.	Inexpensive; takes paint well;, can be sanded; easy to work with; cleans up with water.	Will crack eventually where temperatures vary greatly (acrylic latex formulations are more durable); needs to be painted when used outdoors; won't adhere to metal.	$1.50 and up per tube
Oil or resin-based	To seal gaps in exterior walls.	Inexpensive; will bond to most surfaces.	Cracks after a few years; much less durable than elastomeric (silicone, latex, or acrylic) caulks.	$1 and up per tube
100% silicone	To fill around pipes and vents and building structures made of nonporous materials and plumbing fixtures. Not as effective on wood or masonry.	Very durable and flexible; doesn't crack.	Expensive; limited colors; can't be painted or sanded, gives off strong odor when curing; solvent required for cleanup.	$4.50 and up per tube
Siliconized latex	Same uses as 100% silicone, except not on plumbing fixtures.	Very durable and flexible; rarely cracks, many colors available; cleans up with water; less expensive than 100% silicone.	Can't be sanded.	$3.50 and up per tube
Spray foam (polyurethane-based)	To seal around window and door frames or to fill cracks and holes.	Expands more than latex and fills a greater area than caulking alone.	Expands after application, so it can warp door and window frames; can't resist UV light; must be painted for exterior use; very difficult to clean up after use.	$5.40 and up per can (but one can fills as much space as many tubes of caulking)
Spray foam (water-based)	Around window and door frames or to fill cracks and holes.	Does not expand as much as polyurethane foam; can be shaped while wet; easy cleanup with water; will not cause windows or doors to bind.	Does not adhere as tightly to materials as urethane; takes longer to cure (up to 24 hours).	$5 and up per can (but one can can fill as much space as many tubes of caulking)

By the Numbers: Federal funding for weatherization eclipses cash for clunkers for appliances money

$4,728,750,000

Money allocated to the U.S. Department of Energy's Weatherization Assistance Program under the 2009 Recovery Act. To date, the program has doled out about half of its multibillion-dollar funding for a variety of weatherization projects, such as properly insulating an attic.

New York tops the WAP recipient list with $394,686,513, followed by Texas ($326,975,732), Pennsylvania ($252,793,062), Michigan (243,398,975), and Illinois ($242,526,619).

The nearly $5 billion is a boatload of money, but if spent wisely it could go a long way toward saving millions of Americans money and helping the environment. A recent report from Harvard University's Joint Center for Housing Studies estimates that residential energy use would decline by 22.5 percent if the roughly 120 million homes built before 2000 were made as efficient as those built since then.

Perhaps that potential significant impact explains why federal weatherization money so far exceeds that given to the $300 million State Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Program, also known as cash for clunkers for appliances. Visit the Energy Star Web site for information on special offers and rebates for appliances, heating and cooling equipment, water heaters, and the like, and find out how much money your state has available for rebates, weatherization programs, and more.

You'll find more information on other federal and state energy-efficiency programs on the Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy Web site.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Our Energy Saving & Green Living guide can help you cut your carbon footprint and save money. Follow our overall advice for using less energy at home, and remember that some projects might qualify for federal tax credits.

By the Numbers: Energy Star homes reach major milestone

1 million

Number of Energy Star-qualified homes built nationwide since the program debuted in 1995. These homes have saved Americans $1.2 billion in energy costs, reduced greenhouse-gas emissions by 22 billion pounds, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The top 10 markets for Energy Star homes are Houston, Dallas, Las Vegas, Phoenix, Los Angeles, New York City, Tucson, San Antonio, Sacramento, and San Diego.

To qualify for Energy Star, says the EPA, a new home must be at least 15 percent more efficient than homes built to the 2004 International Residential Code and include other features that make them 20 to 30 percent more efficient than standard home, such as effective insulation, high-performance windows, and efficient heating and cooling equipment, appliances, lighting, and ventilation. (The image below, from Energy Star, shows typical locations of air leaks in a home. Check out our recent Weekend Project on weatherizing your attic.)

"This is an amazing achievement for the Energy Star program, but the real winners are the 1 million American families who have the chance to save money and keep harmful pollution out of the air. That's great news for anyone who wants to cut costs and protect our planet," said EPA Administrator Lisa P. Jackson in a press release. "We're going to keep the number of Energy Star homes growing, because every new Energy Star home is a step towards lower costs, cleaner air, and communities that are environmentally and economically sustainable."

To boost the energy efficiency of your home and save some real money, start with these simple, inexpensive steps and follow our overall advice for using less energy at home.—Celia Kuperszmid Lehrman | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you haven't done so already, get your heating system tuned up and install a programmable thermostat. Also refer to our buyer's guides to furnaces (more details here), water heaters, pellet stoves, and solar water heaters, and find the best compact fluorescent lightbulbs. Remember, some projects might qualify for federal tax credits. If you want energy-efficient appliances, stay up on the news related to the $300 million State Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Program, also known as cash for clunkers for appliances.

 

Weekend Project: Weatherize your attic to save money and boost comfort at home year-round

Properly weatherizing your attic can cut 10 to 30 percent off your heating and cooling bills, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. And while you might not want to spend the money (or the time) to do the work, keep in mind that the federal government offers a 30 percent tax credit up to a maximum of $1,500 on weatherization materials, and utilities and states in place like Massachusetts, New York, and Washington offer additional incentives that sometimes cover labor costs.

There are some simple things to remember when weatherizing your attic, such as never using duct tape on, well, ducts. Also know that if some conditions are present, such as if your insulation is wet or there's mold or knob-and-tube wiring, you should hire a contractor to do the work.

Otherwise follow this advice from the DOE's do-it-yourself guide to attic insulation (PDF) and our own Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs to seal up your attic and start saving money now. Download this PDF from the book for more details on insulating your attic and/or basement: Insulate Basement-Attic, and watch our video.

1. If you see dirty insulation . . .
It means air is passing through the insulation from the heated space below because most thermal-insulation products are not air barriers. Search for the source of airflow, such as a large open chase or smaller gaps around an electrical wire or junction box or plumbing pipes or vents

2. If you see narrow gaps less than 1/2 inch wide . . .
Seal gaps with the appropriate caulking. If the crack is deep, use flexible backer rod before caulking. (Gaps around heating-system flues, chimneys, or recessed lights should be handled differently to avoid a fire hazards; see the precautions below.)

3. If you see gaps more than 1/2 to 2 inches wide . . .
First, close up large openings using scrap wood or metal flashing that you screw in place. Then caulk all seams and small gaps or seal using expandable, spray-in water- or foam-based sealant. Remember, foam-based sealants can expand to several times their original volume, crush flexible vent pipes, and cause structural damage if too much is applied. Water-based foams expand less; you can also use fiberglass insulation stuffed in a plastic bag. When working, wear gloves, long sleeves, and a dust mask specifically marked as being for fiberglass insulation. And remember, foam-based sealant is also nearly impossible to remove if you get it on your skin, and fiberglass insulation can irritate skin.

4. If you see uninsulated areas around light fixtures or where chimneys and furnace flues penetrate through floors . . .
Most recessed light fixtures that protrude up into the attic should not be covered with insulation, which could cause them to overheat. Instead, use a similar barrier made of sheet metal, wire mesh, or lumber to keep the insulation away from the light housing. These fixtures also allow air to flow, but unfortunately most cannot be sealed directly. You can build a larger box enclosure around each fixture that can serve as the air barrier, or you can have the fixtures replaced with a version that is an air barrier type rated for insulation contact as well.

For chimneys or flue pipes, use a heat-resistant caulking or follow the DOE's instructions to create a sheet-metal insulation dam that will keep insulation 2 inches away from the heat source.

5. If you see joist edges showing above your current attic insulation . . .
Add another layer of roll insulation perpendicular to the joists. Use a piece of scrap wood to push the first line into place under the eaves but don't block airflow from the eave out into the attic space. While the attic floor surface should be insulated, an air gap should exist between the roof rafters so air can flow between the eave and the rest of the attic. Don't use foil-faced insulation. The layer of insulation below should have an existing vapor barrier.

In general, good building practice requires three barriers of protection on the surface that separates the heated and cooled living space of the rooms below and the unconditioned attic space above. These barriers are the thermal insulation to slow the heat loss (or gain), the air barrier to stop uncontrolled air exchange between the two spaces, and the vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. Typically, the vapor barrier should be on the warm side of this dividing surface, so in a warm climate it would be on the attic side of the thermal insulation, and in a cold climate it would be on the living space side of the thermal insulation. The air and vapor barrier can be provided by one product or separate products or approaches.

Weekend Project: Make your home more energy efficient during Energy Awareness Month

The poster for the U.S. Department of Energy's Energy Awareness Month campaign for 2009 (shown) declares, "We're putting all the pieces together" and shows a jigsaw puzzle of the United States. That's an apt representation of how puzzling the energy issue can be for many consumers. But as you'll read in our energy-saving special in the October 2009 issue of Consumer Reports, saving big bucks on your utility bills doesn't have to be that complicated.

If you've already made your home as efficient as possible but need appliances, read our FAQ on the $300 million cash for clunkers for appliances program.

Install a programmable thermostat. Lowering your thermostat by 5° to 10°F at night and when no one is at home will reduce your winter heating bills by up to 20 percent, and a programmable thermostat makes heat management a snap. Refer to our thermostat ratings (available to subscribers) to find a model that's easy to operate and maintains consistent temperatures. After you choose a new model, learn how to install a programmable thermostat.

Check attic insulation. Many homes lack adequate attic insulation, especially those built before 1980. You need at least 11 inches of fiberglass or 8 inches of cellulose to keep your house warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Use the DOE's ZIP-code insulation program to get specific insulation recommendations for your home and Energy Star's page with insulation information. And take advantage of federal tax credits on the purchase of new insulation.

Plug air leaks. While you’re checking for insulation, inspect the attic floor for cracks and gaps around canister lights, ductwork, and other electrical and plumbing penetrations. Recessed-light fixtures are another air-leakage source because many designs require some airflow to prevent them from overheating.  Consider replacing these with models designed for airtight construction. Even the smallest leaks contribute to the stack effect, whereby heated air escapes through the attic and is replaced with cool air from lower levels.

Get your heating system inspected. An annual checkup by a licensed heating contractor will eliminate inefficiencies in your heating system. Though not included in the typical annual checkup, have the duct-distribution system inspected to find and seal leaks. Additionally, sections of the duct system that pass through unheated parts of the home should be insulated properly. An annual inspection can also reduce the risk of carbon-monoxide poisoning from furnaces. Even with an inspection, it's critical to install CO and smoke alarms on every level of your home; read our report on both types of alarms in the November 2009 issue of Consumer Reports.

Consider an energy audit. If you suspect your home is severely inefficient, it may be worth hiring a home-performance contractor to perform a whole-house energy audit. Some pros will waive the cost of the audit if you hire them for the work. If you're lucky, your contractor will be up on the latest incentives as well as PACE, or Property Assessed Clean Energy, bonds.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Visit our Energy Saving & Green Living guide for information on more ways to save energy.

What's new on ConsumerReports.org: October 2009 home-related content

Tests that reveal the pros, cons and long-term costs of pellet-burning stoves and solar water heaters headline the new Energy Saving and Green Living Guide that we've published in tandem with these stories from our October 2009 issue. Among the key findings:

• Pellet stoves and solar water heaters. Our Alternative Energy overview reveals how both pellet-burning stoves and solar water heaters could reduce heating costs. But their high prices ($1,300 to $3,900 for pellet stoves; $2,200 to $6000 for solar water heaters, not including installation) and in the case of pellet stoves, higher operating costs (burning pellets is more costly and more polluting than burning natural gas) can lengthen payback times. Both also require upkeep and maintenance. Ratings of pellet stoves and an interim report our solar water heater testing are available to subscribers.

• Simple energy savings. Cut your Energy Bills lists more low-cost and cost-effective ways to reduce your utility bills, including specific tactics for heating and cooling, water consumption, and electricity use.
 
• Tracking federal incentives. See qualification criteria, installation costs, and annual monetary savings from the many energy-savings products and projects eligible for a 30 percent federal tax credit. We also describe how energy audits (done by private firms or on your own with help from government Web sites) can spot home energy wasters.

• CFLs now offer savings and style. Choosing the right compact fluorescent lights is another great way to cut your electric bills. They've been showing up in more and more fixtures, and our ratings (available to subscribers) include models that will work in conventional lights and recessed and track lights, outdoor and flood lights and porch/post lights.

• Readers share mattress ratings. When it's lights out, tap into the wisdom of 17,444 Consumer Reports readers who shared their ratings of the best mattress brands and retailers.

• Vacuums for tough times. Our report on Vacuums rates the performance of both the high-powered high-end and low-priced (but still well performing) models that manufacturers are rolling out during this recession.

• Standout shower towers. Our tests of shower towers revealed three models that could provide an invigorating spray while staying within federal water-consumption regulations and avoiding surcharges imposed by some utilities for heavy water use.

• The scoop on a robotic gutter cleaner. We unleashed the iRobot Looj 155 robotic cleaner on some sections of leaf-clogged gutters and found its promise exceeded its performance. Subscribers can read the full report here.

• Snow blower problem. We found a Toro snow blower that lacks an essential safety feature and gave it our Don't Buy: Safety Alert rating. But safe and cost-effective blowers did abound in our new ratings of 17 models (available to subscribers).

• Green dishwasher detergents wash out. Our tests of three phosphate-free dishwasher detergents also proved disappointing, although you can find capable phosphate-free performers in our August 2009 review of dishwasher detergents.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Find our more about upcoming increases in federal incentives for energy-efficient appliances.

By the Numbers: When it comes to programmable thermostats, Department of Energy doesn't follow its own advice

$11.5 million

Amount the U.S. Department of Energy could save by using programmable thermostats in its buildings, according to a July 2009 audit by the DOE's Office of Inspector General. That situation erases some of the $400 million that the federal government says it's saving annually by making its buildings more energy efficient.  

In 20 of 55 audited buildings, programmable thermostats—or "setbacks," as the report calls them—had been installed but were not being used. "They've actually invested taxpayer money to be more efficient, and then failed to use it," Lane Burt, an energy-policy analyst for the Natural Resources Defense Council, said in this article in The New York Times. In another 15 buildings, thermostats had not been installed or were no longer functional.

"In our judgment, the Department and its facility management and operating contractors need to place greater emphasis on reducing energy consumption through the application of setbacks. Although we found that facility contracts for the sites we visited had formal provisions which required the implementation of setbacks, the actual execution was spotty, suffering from a lack of specific policies or procedures establishing a regime using thermostat setbacks as an effective energy conservation tool," read "The Department of Energy's Opportunity for Energy Savings Through the Use of Setbacks in Its Facilities" audit report.

Installing programmable thermostats is an easy, cost-effective way to lower your energy bill. You can cut heating and cooling costs by at least 10 percent by setting back your thermostat(s) 10° to 15°F for eight hours a day. The source of this sage money- and energy-saving advice? None other than the DOE itself.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Read our report on programmable thermostats to find a model that's easy to operate and maintains steady temperatures. And look for our special report on energy efficiency in the October 2009 issue of Consumer Reports, online and on newsstands next week.

Federal tax credits offer consumers energy incentives

Congress included a wide array of tax breaks for solar-, wind-. and geothermal-energy systems in the $700 billion bailout bill for the financial-services industry. Can these rebates provide cheaper, cleaner cost-effective energy systems for your home?

That depends. Alternative-energy systems are still expensive, but you can offset the high up-front costs by combining federal, state or utility rebates with a U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development energy-efficient mortgage.

Also, keep in mind that payback periods will depend on where you live, the style of your home and key components like windows, insulation, and ductwork, and current prices for electricity, home heating oil, and natural gas. Here's a look at the systems

Solar-photovoltaic systems: 30 percent tax credit
Congress not only instituted the credit but also removed a $2,000 cap on the total credit. That's a key move, since a solar-photovoltaic system capable of fully powering the average U.S. home costs $64,000 to $80,000 installed, according to the Solar Energy Industries Association trade group.

That's a steep cost for consumers, but "without the rebates for solar photovoltaic, its cost would be out of the ballpark," says Jim Wright, vice president of Hudson Valley Clean Energy in Rhinebeck, New York. One alternative program is under way in Connecticut, where the CT Solar Lease program, a partnership between government agencies and lenders, will give an entire solar-photovoltaic system to qualifying homeowners, who in turn commit to a monthly lease payment of about $120 for 15 years.

Solar-thermal systems: 30 percent tax credit, $2,000 maximum cap removed
Using solar energy just to heat your water should provide a much faster return on investment than for a whole-house system. A basic, open-loop system with one 4x10-foot collection panel and an 80-gallon water tank will cost about $2,000, although this will prove feasible only in warm, sunny climates like Hawaii and southern Florida. (Earlier this year, Hawaii became the first state to require solar water heaters in all new homes.

Colder climates require costlier systems that empty the rooftop panels when low temperatures are detected or use an antifreeze solution. A conventional water heating system to provide backup on cloudy days is also needed.

Closed-loop solar-thermal systems with two collection panels, an 80 gallon tank and heat exchanger costs approximately $5,000. (Consumer Reports has purchased several systems, including the FAFCO system shown, for testing. The $2,000 FAFCO system, designed for DIY installation, consists of two polymer panels that sit on the roof and two 1/4-inch plastic tubes that carry water to a heating plate linked to an indoor storage tank.) Installation will double or triple the cost, depending on the contractor's markup. "If a contractor is only putting in one or two systems a year, he's going to get top dollar," says Les Nelson, executive director of the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation.

Tankless water heaters: $300 credit
Many experts say tankless water heaters are the best solution for providing hot water when a solar-thermal system alone cannot. "The sun can preheat the water going to the tankless heater so it's only heating the difference in temperature needed for residential hot water," says Amy Beaudet of the Hudson, Massachusetts-based Alternative Energy Store.

Our recent report on tankless water heaters showed that these appliances are 22 percent more efficient than storage-tank heaters, but whether they are more economical will depend on the cost of upgraded pipes and vents your model might require. "Even if one factors in the energy tax credit, the payback for the tankless heaters we looked at would still require 10 to 15 years, down from 15 to 22 years," says Jim Nanni, manager of the Consumer Reports appliances, recreation, and home-improvement department.

Buzzword: Zoning

What it means. Don't confuse this week's Buzzword with school or community zoning. Rather, in the context of heating and cooling, zoning refers to dividing a home into two or more areas where you set different temperatures. Historically, zoning was more common in homes with a hot-water boiler system than in those with a forced-air furnace system. But as houses bulked up in recent years (thanks in part to the McMansion movement), the need to zone even forced-air-heating systems increased. Besides having more interior space to heat and cool, big houses are more likely to have living spaces with different exposures. To keep these rooms from getting too hot or too cold on certain days, multiple distribution systems are needed to control the flow of conditioned air.

Zoning is pitched as a way to not only make your home more comfortable but also to save you money by letting you reduce the heating or cooling to seldom-used spaces. Some manufacturers and retailers also tout zoning by suggesting that you can save by running a space heater or pellet- or wood-burning stove in a frequently occupied room and turning down the heat with your thermostat (see video, right) in other parts of the home.

Why the buzz? Residential heating costs for the 2008-2009 season are projected to be higher than for last season, according to the Energy Information Administration and, says the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration, the lower 48 states will experience 2.4 percent colder temperatures this winter.

Those figures might make zoning a more tempting proposition. And, in fact, zoning has its place in certain situations, including where one room has very different heating requirements from others in a home. "A room with lots of glass or a bedroom built over a garage could both be candidates for zoning," says Buck Taylor, a heating professional and consultant for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

But for retrofit scenarios, the question of whether it pays to implement zoning depends largely on the accessibility of the hot-water pipes (for a hot-water system) or ductwork (for forced-air system). On a forced-air system, if the central air conditioner and furnace share the same distribution system, balancing the airflow correctly can be even trickier and costlier. 

"For homes with a forced-air system, adding zoning is number 11 on the list of things I'd do [to lower energy costs]," says Harvey Sachs, a senior fellow at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy. He suggests you put your money into insulation, windows, and other forms of weatherization. (Read our advice for cutting your heating bill and enhancing the value of your home.) Taylor agrees, even for homes with a boiler: "Every dollar should be spent in the shell of the house, reducing how much heat is required in the first place, before you start trying to solve problems with mechanical systems."

Chandler von Schrader, head of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Home Improvement with Energy Star program, adds ductwork sealing to the steps you should take before zoning your HVAC system. He notes that duct leakage is in the 30 to 35 percent range for many homes. Correcting the problem can lead to significant savings and enhanced comfort. "Unfortunately, sealing ducts is dirty, nasty work, crawling around attic crawl spaces," Schrader says. As a result, it's a lot easier for contractors to simply zone the system. "But that doesn't correct the root cause of the problem," Schrader adds.

As for zone heating with a fireplace, fireplace insert, or wood or pellet stove, that's a smart move only if your home is buttoned up tight and the fireplace is more efficient than your heating system. If your gas fireplace is 70 percent efficient and your furnace is 85 to 90 percent efficient, you're probably better off running the furnace.

Bottom line, zoning is seldom the cure-all that some heating-equipment manufacturers would have you believe. So work with a trained professional to get a comprehensive home-energy audit, including a residential-load calculation, and determine the best approach to improving the energy efficiency of and comfort level in your home. Find a qualified heating pro by reading this story and visiting the Residential Energy Savings Network.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Learn how to save hundreds on your energy costs, and discover the differences between energy savers and every hogs.

Buzzword: Weatherization

What it means. Weatherization is the practice of making a building more energy efficient by sealing its exterior against wind and precipitation and protecting its interior from heat and cold. Buttoning up the envelope of a house with insulation and caulk is the first line of defense. But best weatherization practices treat a building as a single energy-consuming system and might include such whole-house measures as replacing old heating, cooling, and water-heating devices with higher-efficiency models.

Why the buzz? In the presidential debate between candidates John McCain and Barack Obama on October 7, 2008, moderator Tom Brokaw asked the candidates what sacrifices Americans will have to make to get the country's economy back on track. One of Senator Obama's points covered energy use: "Each and every one of us can start thinking about how can we save energy in our homes, in our buildings," he said. "One of the things I want to do is make sure that . . . you are able to weatherize your home or make your business more fuel efficient." (Read the full debate transcript.)

This is not the first time a president or a candidate for that office trumpeted energy efficiency. President Jimmy Carter famously wore a beige cardigan during a 1977 fireside chat in which he talked to the American public about the country's energy crisis. Carter's wardrobe choice is remembered more than his message, made explicit in his 1979 Crisis of Confidence speech, in which he warned: "The energy crisis is real. It is worldwide. It is a clear and present danger to our nation."

In today's world, weatherization should remain relevant beyond Election Day. With that, we've pulled together steps you can take to weatherize your home, helping you to save yourself money and reduce your energy use. If your more motivated by money than by patriotism, note that on average, weatherization reduces heating bills by 32 percent and overall energy bills by $358 per year at current prices, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Plug the big leaks first. Start in the basement and attic and seal any gaps around your plumbing pipes, ductwork, light fixtures, and electric wiring that allow air to flow out of your house. Also seal around your chimney and flue pipes, being sure to use products suitable for high temperatures. Lay insulation between attic-floor joists and on the hatch or door, or add more if it's already there. Also look for dirty insulation, a sign of air movement that reveals other gaps you must fill. Insulate ducts running through the attic, basement, or other unheated spaces.

Stop air infiltration. Insulate the ceilings in an unheated basement or crawl space or around the exterior walls if they are heated. Also be sure to insulate ducts and hot-water pipes.

Program thermostats for savings. Lower your heating-system thermostat 5° F at night and 10° F during the day if no one is home, a move that will shave up to 20 percent off your heating costs. Many electronic setback thermostats let you set a different schedule for each day. Many automatically switch from heating to cooling, and some tell you when it's time to change your furnace or air-conditioner filters. (Read more about air purifiers.)