By the Numbers: Federal funding for weatherization eclipses cash for clunkers for appliances money

$4,728,750,000

Money allocated to the U.S. Department of Energy's Weatherization Assistance Program under the 2009 Recovery Act. To date, the program has doled out about half of its multibillion-dollar funding for a variety of weatherization projects, such as properly insulating an attic.

New York tops the WAP recipient list with $394,686,513, followed by Texas ($326,975,732), Pennsylvania ($252,793,062), Michigan (243,398,975), and Illinois ($242,526,619).

The nearly $5 billion is a boatload of money, but if spent wisely it could go a long way toward saving millions of Americans money and helping the environment. A recent report from Harvard University's Joint Center for Housing Studies estimates that residential energy use would decline by 22.5 percent if the roughly 120 million homes built before 2000 were made as efficient as those built since then.

Perhaps that potential significant impact explains why federal weatherization money so far exceeds that given to the $300 million State Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Program, also known as cash for clunkers for appliances. Visit the Energy Star Web site for information on special offers and rebates for appliances, heating and cooling equipment, water heaters, and the like, and find out how much money your state has available for rebates, weatherization programs, and more.

You'll find more information on other federal and state energy-efficiency programs on the Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy Web site.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Our Energy Saving & Green Living guide can help you cut your carbon footprint and save money. Follow our overall advice for using less energy at home, and remember that some projects might qualify for federal tax credits.

10 Questions for . . . Jon Strimling, President of WoodPellets.com

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . ., Associate Editor Gian Trotta speaks with Jon Strimling, president of WoodPellets.com about the pellet market. Strimling also addresses some of our readers' concerns about wood pellets and their delivery.

Last year there were reports of pellet shortages. What are the prospects for pellet supplies this winter?
We're clearly in a better position now at the macro level than we were last year, when oil prices shot through the roof in May, June, and July and caused a run on pellet supplies. The industry usually has until November to provide enough fuel for a winter season, but last year many people saw prices going up and thought that they should get their pellets early.

The sudden surge in demand was challenging, and there were times last year when one coast or another would go into back order. But the country has never been short of supply; it was just a case of the product sitting in the wrong place. We were able to keep a flow, but pellets were traveling farther and cost of transport was higher.

A fair bit of additional capacity has also become available. Over past few years 20 new mills have started producing pellets in U.S. and Canada, and new capacity has been added to existing plants. This year, a major boost to raw-material supplies consists of lodgepole pines in Colorado and British Columbia. Because of beetle infestations in recent years, there is an enormous quality of dead standing timber being removed for forest-fire mitigation, and the highest-value use of that resource is pellets.

Will all those factors offset the reduction in pellet raw materials from lumber and wood-flooring production?
Certainly, housing starts are down, and that has reduced capacity of some mills that rely on that stream of dry residual wood. But most of the newer mills can employ "green chips" that enable them to continue to produce premium pellets, and in some cases even superpremium pellets. These clean, debarked chips are cut before wood is dried, for example from the lumber cut from side of logs to square them.

How vulnerable are pellet-producing plants to supply interruptions?
Fortunately, production is dispersed among several areas and companies to reduce chance of shortages. Individual pellet-supply facilities can go down, especially if they are linked to a particular lumber mill. The network of 80 to 100 plants is as a whole pretty robust, so if someone goes down, someone else will pick up that volume.

One of our readers noted that when he began using pellets five years ago, pellets were $110 a ton, now he's paying $265. What is your long-term forecast for pellet prices?
It may be that this consumer got a very unusual deal in 2005 through some sort of a clearance event, because that price is much lower than even typical wholesale pricing was in 2005. If you look at when we started this business in 2006, our retail price was right about what it is now. In 2008, pricing went up about 10 percent.

If you go back five to 10 years ago when crude was cheaper, pellets cost less. Wood and pellets are typically moved by trucks that use diesel fuel, which has gone up since then; so there's no avoiding that pellet prices will rise as oil rises, as diesel fuel is an element of pellets' cost. Normally, when the price of oil doubles, it results in an increase in transportation costs for pellets of about 25 percent.

How do sales of pellet-burning appliances affect your demand forecast?
Last year, sales of pellet-burning appliances were up 180 percent. We won't see sales like that repeat this year—probably not until the next spike in oil pricing. But every heating system sold creates an incremental increase in demand, and people who have systems are continuing to use them, even with oil at lower price levels.

What we're seeing this year is that demand for pellets is coming later. There hasn't been mad rush to go out and buy supply, so we're seeing a later buying season with strong demand. There's not a feeling of panic of everyone this year like last year with the continued growth in the industry. Folks with stoves and inserts are telling friends to go out and buy a pellet-burning stove.

What's the difference between premium and superpremium pellets?
The Pellet Fuel Institute just released a new standard for superpremium pellets and is working out the statistical data around the new methodology. Ash level is a major distinction. Premium has a maximum of 1 percent ash content while superpremium has less than one-half of one percent. That's a big deal to a stove owner because you're cleaning your stove half as often.

Other things tested by the PFI include Btu content, length and diameter of the pellets, and durability. The heating value and ash level are of primary interest to a consumer. The range of variation for the heating value can be 10 percent, but ash level can vary by a factor of three. Moisture level is inversely proportional to heating performance also.

Weekend Project: Weatherize your attic to save money and boost comfort at home year-round

Properly weatherizing your attic can cut 10 to 30 percent off your heating and cooling bills, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. And while you might not want to spend the money (or the time) to do the work, keep in mind that the federal government offers a 30 percent tax credit up to a maximum of $1,500 on weatherization materials, and utilities and states in place like Massachusetts, New York, and Washington offer additional incentives that sometimes cover labor costs.

There are some simple things to remember when weatherizing your attic, such as never using duct tape on, well, ducts. Also know that if some conditions are present, such as if your insulation is wet or there's mold or knob-and-tube wiring, you should hire a contractor to do the work.

Otherwise follow this advice from the DOE's do-it-yourself guide to attic insulation (PDF) and our own Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs to seal up your attic and start saving money now. Download this PDF from the book for more details on insulating your attic and/or basement: Insulate Basement-Attic, and watch our video.

1. If you see dirty insulation . . .
It means air is passing through the insulation from the heated space below because most thermal-insulation products are not air barriers. Search for the source of airflow, such as a large open chase or smaller gaps around an electrical wire or junction box or plumbing pipes or vents

2. If you see narrow gaps less than 1/2 inch wide . . .
Seal gaps with the appropriate caulking. If the crack is deep, use flexible backer rod before caulking. (Gaps around heating-system flues, chimneys, or recessed lights should be handled differently to avoid a fire hazards; see the precautions below.)

3. If you see gaps more than 1/2 to 2 inches wide . . .
First, close up large openings using scrap wood or metal flashing that you screw in place. Then caulk all seams and small gaps or seal using expandable, spray-in water- or foam-based sealant. Remember, foam-based sealants can expand to several times their original volume, crush flexible vent pipes, and cause structural damage if too much is applied. Water-based foams expand less; you can also use fiberglass insulation stuffed in a plastic bag. When working, wear gloves, long sleeves, and a dust mask specifically marked as being for fiberglass insulation. And remember, foam-based sealant is also nearly impossible to remove if you get it on your skin, and fiberglass insulation can irritate skin.

4. If you see uninsulated areas around light fixtures or where chimneys and furnace flues penetrate through floors . . .
Most recessed light fixtures that protrude up into the attic should not be covered with insulation, which could cause them to overheat. Instead, use a similar barrier made of sheet metal, wire mesh, or lumber to keep the insulation away from the light housing. These fixtures also allow air to flow, but unfortunately most cannot be sealed directly. You can build a larger box enclosure around each fixture that can serve as the air barrier, or you can have the fixtures replaced with a version that is an air barrier type rated for insulation contact as well.

For chimneys or flue pipes, use a heat-resistant caulking or follow the DOE's instructions to create a sheet-metal insulation dam that will keep insulation 2 inches away from the heat source.

5. If you see joist edges showing above your current attic insulation . . .
Add another layer of roll insulation perpendicular to the joists. Use a piece of scrap wood to push the first line into place under the eaves but don't block airflow from the eave out into the attic space. While the attic floor surface should be insulated, an air gap should exist between the roof rafters so air can flow between the eave and the rest of the attic. Don't use foil-faced insulation. The layer of insulation below should have an existing vapor barrier.

In general, good building practice requires three barriers of protection on the surface that separates the heated and cooled living space of the rooms below and the unconditioned attic space above. These barriers are the thermal insulation to slow the heat loss (or gain), the air barrier to stop uncontrolled air exchange between the two spaces, and the vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. Typically, the vapor barrier should be on the warm side of this dividing surface, so in a warm climate it would be on the attic side of the thermal insulation, and in a cold climate it would be on the living space side of the thermal insulation. The air and vapor barrier can be provided by one product or separate products or approaches.

Weekend Project: Make your home more energy efficient during Energy Awareness Month

The poster for the U.S. Department of Energy's Energy Awareness Month campaign for 2009 (shown) declares, "We're putting all the pieces together" and shows a jigsaw puzzle of the United States. That's an apt representation of how puzzling the energy issue can be for many consumers. But as you'll read in our energy-saving special in the October 2009 issue of Consumer Reports, saving big bucks on your utility bills doesn't have to be that complicated.

If you've already made your home as efficient as possible but need appliances, read our FAQ on the $300 million cash for clunkers for appliances program.

Install a programmable thermostat. Lowering your thermostat by 5° to 10°F at night and when no one is at home will reduce your winter heating bills by up to 20 percent, and a programmable thermostat makes heat management a snap. Refer to our thermostat ratings (available to subscribers) to find a model that's easy to operate and maintains consistent temperatures. After you choose a new model, learn how to install a programmable thermostat.

Check attic insulation. Many homes lack adequate attic insulation, especially those built before 1980. You need at least 11 inches of fiberglass or 8 inches of cellulose to keep your house warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Use the DOE's ZIP-code insulation program to get specific insulation recommendations for your home and Energy Star's page with insulation information. And take advantage of federal tax credits on the purchase of new insulation.

Plug air leaks. While you’re checking for insulation, inspect the attic floor for cracks and gaps around canister lights, ductwork, and other electrical and plumbing penetrations. Recessed-light fixtures are another air-leakage source because many designs require some airflow to prevent them from overheating.  Consider replacing these with models designed for airtight construction. Even the smallest leaks contribute to the stack effect, whereby heated air escapes through the attic and is replaced with cool air from lower levels.

Get your heating system inspected. An annual checkup by a licensed heating contractor will eliminate inefficiencies in your heating system. Though not included in the typical annual checkup, have the duct-distribution system inspected to find and seal leaks. Additionally, sections of the duct system that pass through unheated parts of the home should be insulated properly. An annual inspection can also reduce the risk of carbon-monoxide poisoning from furnaces. Even with an inspection, it's critical to install CO and smoke alarms on every level of your home; read our report on both types of alarms in the November 2009 issue of Consumer Reports.

Consider an energy audit. If you suspect your home is severely inefficient, it may be worth hiring a home-performance contractor to perform a whole-house energy audit. Some pros will waive the cost of the audit if you hire them for the work. If you're lucky, your contractor will be up on the latest incentives as well as PACE, or Property Assessed Clean Energy, bonds.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Visit our Energy Saving & Green Living guide for information on more ways to save energy.

U.S. households could bank savings on heating costs this winter

Your heating bill could drop this winter, thanks to lower fuel prices and a forecast of slightly milder weather in many areas, according to the latest projections from the U.S. Department of Energy's Energy Information Administration.

The EIA estimates that the average U.S. household will spend about $960 on heating during the October 2009-March 2010 heating season. That's a decline of $84, or 8 percent, from the 2008-2009 heating season. The biggest savings are expected for homes that heat with natural gas or propane. You can save even more money by installing and using a programmable thermostat.

• Natural gas. The EIA expects that the average household that heats with gas save 12 percent this heating season, with those in the Midwest spending 15 percent less. (Check out our buyer's guide to furnaces.) A record high inventory of natural gas has resulted from a huge decrease in demand by the industrial sector and an increase in domestic production, including shale gas.

• Propane. Midwesterners might see an average decrease of 21 percent while those in the West should spend only 5 percent less. One reason for the variation is that the Midwest is projected to have a winter that's about 4 percent warmer while the West could be about 4 percent colder, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

• Heating oil. Oil is used by only 7 percent of U.S. households, the majority of which are in the Northeast. This season, those who heat with oil could save about 3 percent, around $60. Heating oil is averaging about $2.64 a gallon, 2 cents less than last season and 67 cents less than the in 2007-2008.

• Electricity. Those who heat with electricity will spend 2 percent less than last winter , an average of $20.—Kimberly Janeway | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential reading: Our latest report on pellet stoves highlights the pros and cons of this alternative heat source. (Ratings are available to subscribers.) To cut energy use year-round, find out how to save up to $1,500 on your annual utility bills, read our report on solar water heaters, and learn which compact fluorescent lightbulbs top our ratings.

Pellet stoves are a hot topic with consumers

As high energy prices and federal tax incentives continue to spur interest in pellet stoves, the number of online discussions about these appliances seems to be on the rise. Among the topics of interest to potential buyers and seasoned users are which pellets to buy, their proper storage and cleanup, and even possible pellet shortages during peak heating season. The Napoleon NPS40 stove, $2,350, is shown.

You'll be happy to learn that the "supply of pellets stoves and fuel is good," according to Leslie G. Wheeler, director of communications for the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association.

The HPBA advises that you keep pellets dry and not handle them more than necessary, since they can breakup into smaller pieces. Also note that wood pellets in 40-pound bags are easier to store, keep dry, and tote to a stove than loose pellets, which require some sort of large bin.

Storage area can definitely be a concern with wood pellets. "You need some space to store the pellets; I have 4 tons in my basement," says John McAloon, a project leader in the Consumer Reports Technical Division. McAloon schleps the 40-pound bags of pellets into his basement by himself, but innovative bulk-delivery systems could become a more-attractive alternative.

As for water damage, "I've had water get into one or two bags stacked near the bottom of the pallet, but it ruined only a small amount of pellets," McAloon adds.

The HPBA suggests that you burn only grades of pellet recommended by the manufacturer of the stove and clean your stove(s) at least once a week regardless of which grade of pellet you burn.

"The stove requires some cleaning, but I haven't had problems with dust, and the pellets do burn pretty efficiently. Each week, after burning 300 to 400 pounds of pellets, I might find just a few clinkers—large ash deposits,"  says McAloon.

Two manufacturers whose pellet stoves were tested four our recent report—Harman Home Heating and England's Stove Works—offer valuable safety and troubleshooting advice on their Web sites.

Share your own tips or insights about using pellet stoves, which fuels to buy, and other subjects by leaving a comment below. Our future coverage will look at these burning topics.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential Information: The October 2009 issue of Consumer Reports includes expert advice on ways to slash your energy bills, ratings of compact fluorescent lightbulbs, and coverage of solar water heaters (stories and ratings are available to subscribers). Look for more ways to save in our new Energy Saving & Green Living guide.

World Health Organization lowers recommended action level for radon; goal is to reduce lung-cancer risk

Based on recently completed research, the World Health Organization is recommending that homeowners take action to remediate the radon level in their home if it exceeds 100 becquerels (Bq), which corresponds to 2.7 picocuries per liter (pCi/L).That's lower than the 4.0 pCi/L current action level in this country as recommended by the U.S Environmental Protection Agency.

The WHO also says that if this level can't be reached because of country-specific conditions, the action level should not exceed 300 Bq, or about 8 pCi/L. 

The WHO research, based on four years of work by 100 scientists from 30 countries, appears in the "WHO Handbook on Indoor Radon" (PDF).

The EPA has just learned of the WHO's recommendation, according to Tom Kelly, acting director of the EPA's Office of Radiation and Indoor Air. The EPA regularly reexamines its recommendations on radon and will take the WHO's advice into account but is not changing the level now. "The WHO does not say 2.7 is a safe level; there is no safe level. The EPA has said that homeowners should consider mitigation at levels of 2.0 pCi/L," says Kelly. "At levels of 4.0 pCi/L, homeowner should be very concerned. What's most important is that homeowners have their homes tested and that our message on radon is simple, clear, memorable, and actionable."
 
Radon, a radioactive gas, results from the natural decay of uranium that's present in most soils and can enter the home through cracks and holes in the foundation. Radon is a leading cause of lung cancer among nonsmokers. The WHO states that as many as 14 percent of lung-cancer cases in many countries, including the United States, are caused by exposure to radon. Smokers who live in a home with radon face an even higher lung-cancer risk.
 
Detecting radon is relatively simple and fixing the problem isn't difficult. However, as we found in our latest report on radon test kits, some kits underreported radon levels by almost 40 percent, so choosing the right one is crucial. Check out our ratings of radon test kits to find the most accurate, reliable models.

Long-term kits are more accurate because radon levels can vary from day to day. You should place the test kit(s) on the lowest occupied level of your home away from windows or vents.—Celia Kuperszmid Lehrman | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Remember, radon levels can vary from one house to another in a neighborhood, so even if all surrounding homes are free of radon, you should have yours tested, especially important if you've done major structural renovations. To find a remediation contractor, contact your state radon office. Remediation will cost $800 to $2,500, depending on the radon-reduction system used and the characteristics of your home.

Weekend Project: Fall cleaning tips for inside your home

Spring cleaning seems to get most of the attention, but fall is also a good time to get your house in order. Check out these fall-cleaning tips for the interior of your home and your yard and garden and those that follow.

Clean drapes, upholstery, carpeting, and floors. A canister vacuum is better equipped to clean drapes and upholstery, while an upright is better for deep-cleaning carpets. For your carpeting, use a carpet cleaner or schedule a professional cleaning. If your wood floors have taken a beating over the summer, see "Can This Flooring Be Saved?" to deal with worn finishes or damage.

Be a greener cleaner. Try these alternatives to store-bought cleaners. The video here shows more ways that everyday products cleaners can substitute for specialized cleaners.

Dispose of old paint and other hazardous products. Don't dispose of old paint, cleaners, solvents, pesticides, or other potentially dangerous products with the trash. Read our advice for proper disposal of  paints and finishes and common household items.

Also check with your municipality for collection dates for hazardous household materials. A feature on Earth911.com lets you search by location for dates. As a colleague recently discovered, you can save a ton of money carting refuse to a certified facility rather using a professional waste-disposal service.

Be wary of airborne and other problems. If your home has never been tested for radon or lead, read our report on home-use test kits to find those that work best. We've also found mold kits to be ineffective; use a professional if you see these telltale signs of mold.

There's also little evidence that air purifiers can help people who suffer from asthma and allergies. If you want to use an air purifier, use whole-house and portable models that rely on filters and that produce no ozone. (Ratings of air purifiers are available to subscribers.) Look for our report on carbon-monoxide and smoke alarms in the November 2009 issue of Consumer Reports, online and on newsstands in early October.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you or another member are prone to accidents, watch this video on the best ways to handle spills from wine and soda. Before the start of heating season, get your heating system tuned up. And to save money on your utility bills, install a programmable thermostat, read our buyer's guides to furnaces (more details here), solar water heaters, and pellet stoves, and follow our overall experts tips for cutting your energy costs.

Tip of the Day: How to make your own (less-toxic) household cleaners

Whether you're looking to lower your exposure certain potentially toxic ingredients in store-bought products or to save yourself some money or both, it's easy to make your own less-toxic cleaners using common household ingredients  and some clean, empty containers. Check out the list of ingredients below and then try the simple, reliable recipes that follow.

As always, store cleaners safely and don't experiment mixing common household cleaners. Mixing bleach and ammonia, for instance, could produce an irritating or dangerous toxic gas. Also read "Clear Windows, Unclear Warnings," which covers glass cleaners whose safety warnings for children and pets aren't as obvious as they could be. And read our report on keeping kids safe around the house.

Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). You can use this mild alkali powder for a variety of purposes, such as removing stains from tile, glass, oven doors, and china; cleaning the inside of a refrigerator; helping to absorb odors; and removing baked-on food from pans. It also acts as a stain remover for fruit juices and other mild acids.

Borax. A powder or crystalline salt sold in most grocery stores, borax is a water softener and sanitizer. It makes an excellent freshener when added to laundry and is an all-around deodorizer.

Castile soap. A mild soap available in liquid or bar form that can be used for general-purpose cleaning. It was once made from olive oil, but now might include other vegetable oils as well.

Cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate). This common baking ingredient is a mild acid that you can use as a sink and bathtub stain remover. It can also be used to remove spots from aluminum cookware.

Distilled white vinegar. Good for a variety of household cleaning tasks, use vinegar to help kill germs and deodorize, remove some carpet stains, clean coffeemakers, chrome, cookware, and countertops, and  unclog drains. Note that while white vinegar has a slight scent while wet, when dry, it leaves no odor. However, don’t use it on acetate fabrics, such as in some tablecloths, because it can dissolve the fibers.

Hydrogen peroxide. A mild alternative to chlorine bleach that you can use for stain removal and mild bleaching and germ killing. Available in drug stores and supermarkets.

Lemon juice. You can use the juice (which acts like a very mild bleach) to lighten stains and cut grease. It can also be used to remove tarnish can be used on brass, copper, bronze, and aluminum, but not on silver.

Washing soda (sodium carbonate or soda ash). A stronger alternative to baking soda, washing soda can be used as a water softener in conjunction with laundry detergents (gloves are recommended as it will irritate skin). Don't use it with silks, woolens, or vinyl.

What's new on ConsumerReports.org: October 2009 home-related content

Tests that reveal the pros, cons and long-term costs of pellet-burning stoves and solar water heaters headline the new Energy Saving and Green Living Guide that we've published in tandem with these stories from our October 2009 issue. Among the key findings:

• Pellet stoves and solar water heaters. Our Alternative Energy overview reveals how both pellet-burning stoves and solar water heaters could reduce heating costs. But their high prices ($1,300 to $3,900 for pellet stoves; $2,200 to $6000 for solar water heaters, not including installation) and in the case of pellet stoves, higher operating costs (burning pellets is more costly and more polluting than burning natural gas) can lengthen payback times. Both also require upkeep and maintenance. Ratings of pellet stoves and an interim report our solar water heater testing are available to subscribers.

• Simple energy savings. Cut your Energy Bills lists more low-cost and cost-effective ways to reduce your utility bills, including specific tactics for heating and cooling, water consumption, and electricity use.
 
• Tracking federal incentives. See qualification criteria, installation costs, and annual monetary savings from the many energy-savings products and projects eligible for a 30 percent federal tax credit. We also describe how energy audits (done by private firms or on your own with help from government Web sites) can spot home energy wasters.

• CFLs now offer savings and style. Choosing the right compact fluorescent lights is another great way to cut your electric bills. They've been showing up in more and more fixtures, and our ratings (available to subscribers) include models that will work in conventional lights and recessed and track lights, outdoor and flood lights and porch/post lights.

• Readers share mattress ratings. When it's lights out, tap into the wisdom of 17,444 Consumer Reports readers who shared their ratings of the best mattress brands and retailers.

• Vacuums for tough times. Our report on Vacuums rates the performance of both the high-powered high-end and low-priced (but still well performing) models that manufacturers are rolling out during this recession.

• Standout shower towers. Our tests of shower towers revealed three models that could provide an invigorating spray while staying within federal water-consumption regulations and avoiding surcharges imposed by some utilities for heavy water use.

• The scoop on a robotic gutter cleaner. We unleashed the iRobot Looj 155 robotic cleaner on some sections of leaf-clogged gutters and found its promise exceeded its performance. Subscribers can read the full report here.

• Snow blower problem. We found a Toro snow blower that lacks an essential safety feature and gave it our Don't Buy: Safety Alert rating. But safe and cost-effective blowers did abound in our new ratings of 17 models (available to subscribers).

• Green dishwasher detergents wash out. Our tests of three phosphate-free dishwasher detergents also proved disappointing, although you can find capable phosphate-free performers in our August 2009 review of dishwasher detergents.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Find our more about upcoming increases in federal incentives for energy-efficient appliances.