Tip of the Day: Cut your heating bill, boost the value of your home

Combining no- and low-cost weatherizing tactics with government and utility incentives can help raise or at least maintain the value of your home and slash your energy bills. You'll also help protect the environment.

Several energy-saving projects can reduce your heating bills this winter, according to our calculations. For instance, insulating the attic or basement is typically inexpensive and easy to do yourself. Adding attic insulation can lower your heating costs from 5 to 30 percent, according to a U.S. Department of Energy study.

Another simple measure you can implement right now is to drop the temperature setting on your household thermostat(s). For every degree you lower the temperature, you can save about 3 percent on your heating costs. Also consider lowering the setting 5° to 10°F when no one is home and at night.

Weatherizing you home can save you up to 30 percent on heating. And tests performed by the Oak Ridge National Laboratory for the DOE showed that an aggressive weatherization program at your house can provide a 33.5 percent decrease in natural-gas consumption for space heating.

What's more, every dollar you shave off your energy bills with such home improvements can add more than $20 to the resale value of your home, according to a study by the Appraisal Institute. And a recent study by Seattle-based GreenWorks Realty showed that energy-efficient homes spend 18 percent less time on the market and sell for up to 37 percent more per square foot than conventional homes. (Consumer Reports has been leading the way on home-energy savings for decades, as detailed in "How to Cut Your Fuel Bill," from our August 1941 issue. As you'll see in this free PDF download—How to cut your fuel bill 1941.pdf—what's old is new.)

"We call efficiency the 'first fuel' that a homeowner consumes," says Suzanne Watson, policy director for the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy. "Once you get that flowing, it cuts down your use of expensive secondary fossil fuels."

Seal holes
Cracks and crevices at all levels of your home allow expensive heated air to escape from your home; in an older house, those nooks and crannies can be the equivalent of a 2-square-foot hole in the side of the house. (Picture that.) But, estimates the DOE, proper weatherization alone can cut energy bills by at least 30 percent. Some utility companies provide free energy audits to pinpoint problem areas at your home; you can also find certified professionals in your area through the Residential Energy Services Network.

If you want to do the work yourself, look for dirty insulation, a sign of air movement that reveals other gaps you must fill. Also install precut foam pads to insulate electrical outlets, an often-overlooked source of cold-air infiltration and make sure you insulate holes in floors where heating and water pipes emerge. If you have steam radiators, place foil-faced insulation behind them to reflect heat back into the room. If your doors and windows are structurally sound there is no need to replace them. But you should replace any worn weather-stripping around doors and windows to cut drafts, which can make you feel colder and cause you to raise your thermostat setting.

"Add Insulation to Lower Your Heating Bills" and "Stay Warm Without Getting Fleeced" offer additional DIY ways to seal gaps.

Effikal gas Vent dampers recalled

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission on October 9, 2008, announced the recall of 45,000 automatic gas-vent dampers manufactured by Effikal LLC, of Orion, Michigan, that could fail and cause gas boilers to emit carbon monoxide if the blocked vent switch does not activate.

For full details—including a list of the 14 different brands of gas boilers that could be affected—visit the CPSC recall page and the manufacturer's own Web site.

Essential information: With winter heating season upon us, read about carbon-monoxide detectors  and smoke alarms. You can also review our guides to buying a new gas furnace or wood- or pellet-burning stove and brand-history repair for gas furnaces. You'll also find advice on maintaining your heating systems and head-to-head efficiency comparisons of major appliances.

Home-heating costs projected to rise this winter

While you might be relieved to see prices at the pump drop in recent weeks, your energy-cost euphoria will likely be short-lived.

Not to be a bummer, but home-heating bills are expected to soar during the 2008-2009 heating season, which runs from October 1 to March 31. The average American household will pay $1,182, up 19.8 percent from last year, according to the Energy Information Administration. That's a 65 percent increase from 2003-2004, says the EIA. (All figures here are from the EIA, which revises them every month. You'll find updated information on the EIA site.) It's no wonder one of the most common searches on ConsumerReports.org is for wood- and pellet-burning stoves.

Some regions will be harder hit than others:

People who live in the Northeast and heat with oil are facing the biggest price increase—they'll pay on average $2,725 this winter, up 37.1 percent over 2007-2008. The national average price for heating with oil has grown more than 198 percent from 2003-2004 to 2008-2009.

Southerners who heat with propane will pay on average $1,578, an 18.7 percent increase over 2003-2004. The national average price for heating with propane has soared just over 100 percent from 2003-2004 to 2008-2009.

Residents of the West who heat with gas will pay on average $684, the lowest regional cost in the country. Nonetheless, that's a 23.8 percent increase, even with the stepped-up production of natural gas. The national average price for heating with natural gas has climbed almost 61 percent from 2003-2004 to 2008-2009.

And Midwesterners who heat with electricity will see the smallest hike. It will cost them on average $1,051 to heat their homes, a 4.7 percent climb. The national average price for heating with electricity is up almost 34 percent from 2003-2004 to 2008-2009.

Regardless of where you live or what type of fuel you use, get your heating system checked before the cold weather comes. It's also a good idea to insulate the attic, install a programmable thermostat, and seal leaks and cracks throughout your home. Read more about keeping your energy costs down in "Heating: Stay Warm Without Getting Fleeced."—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Learn more about energy efficiency by reading our "Save Energy, Save Money" feature in the October 2008 Consumer Reports. The issue also contains a review of tankless water heaters, an update on our testing of compact fluorescent lightbulbs, and an investigative piece on the federal government's Energy Star program. Finally, learn about heating safety.

Q&A: Are there any tax credits for installing a residential solar-energy system?

Hoping to save on our energy bills, we're considering installing a solar water heater at our home. Does the federal government offer any tax breaks for these systems?

Given the high upfront expense of solar photovoltaic (PV) systems and solar water heaters, it's no wonder you're interested in financial incentives to alleviate some of the cost. Federal tax credits for PV systems and solar water heaters do exist, though you'll need to move quickly because they expire this December 31. (OCTOBER 2008 UPDATE: The $700 billion Emergency Economic Stabilization Act of 2008 extended and expanded the tax credits for residential solar systems. Read more in this post from the Consumer Reports Money blog.)

Advocates of solar energy fear the end of the tax credits will discourage adoption of these promising technologies. "If the federal solar credits expire as planned, it will definitely put a huge damper on the market, and we'll see a large drop in installations," says Larry Sherwood, a consultant to the Interstate Renewable Energy Council, a nonprofit that promotes renewable energy.

Federal tax credits for solar power have helped double the number of commercial and residential installations of PV and solar-water-heater systems since taking effect in 2006, according to the new "U.S. Solar Market Trends" report by Sherwood. Rising energy prices and state incentives have also played a role in spurring the market, particularly in states where those incentives have the biggest payoff.

California, with the largest state incentive program for PV systems, dominates the market with 69 percent of all installations. Similarly, Hawaii, with its generous incentives, accounts for half of the solar-water-heater market. (Read this blog post for more on solar water heaters in Hawaii.)

Still, most Americans own neither type of system since they remain prohibitively expensive. Check out this listing of state incentives for solar power; select "Solar (All)" in the drop-down menu. You'll find more information on renewable-energy incentives on the same site.

A PV system capable of fully powering the average U.S. home costs $64,000 to $80,000 installed, says the Solar Energy Industries Association trade group. While much cheaper, solar water heaters still cost $5,000 to $7,000, including installation. Such steep prices make renewable-energy incentives attractive.

The existing federal incentives allow you to take a 30 percent tax credit up to $2,000 for the purchase and installation of a PV system or solar water heater. But even that's not enough, says the SEIA, which is pushing for an eight-year extension of the federal credits and to eliminate the existing $2,000 limit for residential buyers.

Some progress toward that goal has been made. Last May, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the Renewable Energy and Job Creation Act of 2008, which extends the credits for eight years and also doubles the cap to $4,000 for residential buyers. But after eight attempts, the Senate has failed to pass a bill of its own.

Given the need for more secure, clean-energy technologies, we shouldn't let the sun set on these important incentives.—Kristi Wiedemann, Science and Policy Analyst, GreenerChoices.org

Essential information: Find out how solar and other renewable-energy technologies are greening the workforce, get the latest buzz on backyard wind power, and learn about tax credits and rebates for energy-efficient appliances. Also read what Consumers Union has to say about the hidden price you pay for energy.—Kristi Wiedemann, Science and Policy Analyst, GreenerChoices.org

Protect Your Investment: Maintain your air conditioner

Air conditioners can be energy gluttons, but if you keep your air-conditioning in tiptop shape, you can decrease how much energy your cooling system uses this summer and maximize its efficiency. Consider that a dirty, clogged filter reduces airflow, can lead to operational problems like coil freeze-up, and in general makes your system work harder.

Best of all, the work is easy and won’t cause you to break a sweat.

Installation steps
• Vacuum any debris from the indoor and outdoor coils with an upholstery-brush attachment before you install your room air conditioner. Take care not to damage or deform the soft fins.
• Seal the perimeter of the installed unit with new weatherstripping, if needed.

Monthly jobs during cooling season
• Take out the filter and vacuum off debris. Wash it in warm, soapy water. Rinse the filter let it dry completely, then reinstall. If the filter is very dirty or your usage increases significantly, clean the filter more often.
• If dirt and debris have bypassed the filter, you will need to remove the front panel and vacuum dust and debris from the coils.
• Replace a deteriorated filter.

Tips for a central-air unit
• Call in your service contractor if you haven’t already. The pro should change all filters; clean and flush the coils, drain pan, and drainage system; and vacuum the blower compartments. Additionally, the service contractor should ensure that the system is properly charged with refrigerant, that there are no leaks, and that all mechanical components are working properly. Our experts also recommend that you:
• Clean or replace the filters monthly or as needed. Also clean the grilles.
• Clear debris and dirt from the outdoor condenser coils. And keep vegetation at least two feet away from the unit.
• Check if there’s a blockage in the pipe that drains condensed water from the indoor unit.

At the end of the cooling season, follow the expert advice in this Q&A from the Home & Garden blog.— Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Read our latest report on air conditioners, including Ratings of dozens of models (available to subscribers). Also find out how to use less air conditioning this summer and read our review of ceiling fans. And use our Home Improvement Guide interactive to take a room-by-room tour of the top-rated appliances and most cost-effective improvements you can make to your home.

America takes on spring cleaning

Nearly 77 percent of Americans will undertake some type of spring cleaning this year, according to a recent survey by the Soap and Detergent Association (SDA), a cleaning-products trade group. Men and women tackle these seasonal chores, though more women (86 percent) than men (68 percent) tidy up behind furniture, wash windows, clean appliances and floors, and tend to bedclothes/linens.

Not surprisingly, many survey respondents admit to not liking the task, which is nowhere near as fun as that other rite of spring: the start of a new baseball season. Indeed, nearly a third of respondents would pay $100 to hire someone to do their cleaning for them.

I’d have thought that more people would give up household cleaning, but it seems that Americans do like this chore: Only 8 percent of respondents to the SDA’s 2004 spring-cleaning survey described house cleaning as a job they dislike, while 88 percent considered cleaning as important to keeping their families happy, healthy and safe; maintaining a presentable home; or providing a sense of satisfaction when finished.

The benefit to spring cleaning? More than 50 percent of respondents feel a thorough cleaning once a year cuts down on their cleanup work the rest of the time.

Seventy-five percent of those surveyed look for product effectiveness as key in the cleaners they buy (they also like multipurpose cleaners), and they also consider cost and convenience when shopping. They’re  increasingly seeking out green or organic cleaning products, like those recently introduced by Clorox and SC Johnson. See our blog on this industry trend.

Consumer Reports, of course, is here to help you get through these annual—and arduous—chores. Refer to our Spring Cleaning Guide for expert advice on keeping your home and your car looking their best. If you’re in the market for a new vacuum cleaner, read our latest report and watch the video buying guide at right. And for any heavier-duty tasks in the garage, basement, or workshop, learn about wet/dry vacuums.—Cyndi Schoenbrun, Senior Research Analyst

International Builders’ Show Product Preview: Best by Broan IP29 Vent Hood

When you’re shopping for an undercabinet range hood, you’ll find a large variety of styles, sizes, and performance abilities as well as a number of very good $500 and under models. (See our latest report, “Over the Range.”)

Downdraft models are another venting option. These are designed to reverse the direction of rising smoke and fumes and exhaust them through ducts running beneath the floor. But our testing has shown downdrafts to be among the least effective venting systems at removing smoke and steam.

But if you cook at a kitchen island, venting can be more complicated—and expensive. Many overhead vent hoods cost $2,000 and up, without installation and ducting.

The stylish stainless-steel Best IP29 from Broan costs $3,300 to $4,800, might be a good choice if you need a vent hood. Sensor technology detects what you’re cooking and can turn on the hood automatically, at whatever speed and duration are needed, according to the manufacturer.

The IP29 features pushbutton LCD controls for speed and light settings and an Americans With Disabilities Act–compliant remote control, says Broan. The hood comes in 42- and 54-inch lengths and is 32 inches deep.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: See our Ratings of range hoods (available to subscribers) and tips for proper venting. To help you make your dream kitchen a reality, refer to our kitchen-planning guide.

Buyer’s guide to pellet- and wood-burning stoves

Rising energy costs have prodded Americans to buy not only more fuel-efficient cars but also more firewood and wood pellets, which generally are made from sawdust and wood shavings, as fuel to heat their homes. More than 800,000 homeowners are already using wood pellets.

Although you can use pellets (shown) to run a whole-house heating system, the fuel is more commonly used to feed fireplace inserts and freestanding stoves serving as supplemental heating appliances. Turn on an insert or stove when you're in a room and you can turn down the household thermostat and thus save money. Converting wood waste (and other biomass, like shelled corn and wheat hulls) into energy-dense fuel results in less waste being heaped onto landfills. Plus, pelletized wood and more-traditional solid wood are eco-friendly alternatives to nonrenewable fossil fuels such as natural gas, oil, and coal.

Before you jump on the wood-burning bandwagon, though, consider a few of the drawbacks. Because most homes aren't equipped with a thermostat in every room, the heat from an insert or stove might cause nearby thermostats to think the temperature throughout their zones is at the set level. The result? Rooms adjacent to the heated space could become cold, and you might be tempted to boost the thermostat when in those rooms. That defeats the purpose of the stove or insert, because it will save you money only if you keep the thermostat turned down.

Also, your actual savings depend on fuel costs in your area. It's also worth noting that wood and wood pellets don't burn quite as cleanly as natural gas or fuel oil, which is an environmental issue and a concern if you or family members have respiratory difficulties. Perhaps most important to note is that wood-burning and pellet-burning appliances require constant attention—loading, lighting, tending, and cleaning—especially compared with the "just press start" ease of most gas- and oil-powered appliances.

How to Choose
Appliance type. If you already have a fireplace, don't use it for space heating. Fireplaces often cause all areas except the room they're in to become cold. And their efficiency is very low—generally about 25 percent. But you can boost the efficiency of a fireplace with a fireplace insert. Essentially a self-contained firebox, the insert fits into the existing box and allows air to circulate around it, thus heating it. The insert is connected to the chimney to vent the smoke and combustion by-products. If you don't have a working fireplace, choose a freestanding stove, which you can place nearly anywhere in your home. (Venting a freestanding stove requires punching through the building envelope and installing a chimney of appropriate design, or alternatively, using an aftermarket power vent designed for wood-burning appliances.) Whichever type of appliance you choose, expect to pay at least $750 plus installation fees of $250 and up. Use a National Fireplace Institute-certified installer.

Heating needs. Heat load is measured in British thermal units per hour, or Btu/h. You need 25 to 30 Btu/h per square foot, or at least 5,000 Btu/h for a 200-square-foot space. The actual heat loss (and conversely the amount of heat needed) is based on where you live (outdoor air temperature), the amount of insulation in the ceiling and exterior walls of the space, the number and size of the space's windows, and whether or not there is heated space above and below the room. Calculate how many Btu/h you need to heat your space and select an appropriately sized insert or stove.

Fuel. The average cost of a cord of firewood or a ton of wood pellets is $190, according to the United States Department of Energy. But for a true comparison of the costs, you have to look at not just the price of the fuel but also the heating value of the fuel, also measured in Btu, and the efficiency of the heating appliance. Using averages for all three, the Energy Information Administration's Heating Fuel Comparison Calculator estimates it costs $14.39 to produce 1 million Btu using pellets or solid wood. Those figures are between the costs of coal ($5.35) and natural gas ($17.82) and are well below the costs of oil ($22.83), propane ($27.65), and electric furnaces ($32.49) and electric baseboards and space heaters ($30.86).

Other significant differences between wood and pellets:
Availability. Cord wood is sold in most parts of the United States. If you're lucky, you might be able to harvest the fuel for free from your own property. Wood pellets aren't as widely available, though manufacturers are in every region of the country. When buying cord wood, be sure you get what you pay for. A true cord is a stack that's 8 feet long x 4 feet deep x 4 feet high; a "cord run" is the same length and height but includes only 16-inch logs, making it a third the volume of a true cord.

Grade. Use whatever hardwood is plentiful in your area and prepare and store it properly. There are two types of wood pellets: standard grade, which contain more ash, and premium grade, which burn a bit cleaner but are a bit more expensive. Some stoves can burn both grades and others are designed to burn pellets made of corn, wheat, and other materials. "Multifuel" inserts and stoves can burn pellets made from wood and wood alternatives.

Emissions. Traditional wood-burning fireplaces and older stoves can be woefully inefficient, and are known to produce upwards of 40 grams of smoke per hour. The latest wood-burning inserts and stoves are much better—EPA-certified to produce no more than 7.5 grams of smoke per hour. Pellet emissions are so minimal that the EPA does not regulate them (though voluntary certification is available). In areas of the country where burning solid wood is restricted, pellet burning is often unrestricted.

Convenience. Wood-burning appliances are literally "off the grid," so you need to load, light, and stoke them by hand. Pellet-burning devices, on the other hand, can be fully automated but require electricity to operate. (Battery backups are available, and you can also connect the units to a backup generator. Although you don't need to tend to pellet appliances, you must fill the hopper frequently (shown), depending on the size of the reservoir and amount of use. You'll need to dedicate sufficient space to store wood (an average of 6.5 cords to heat a home for one heating season—obviously less to fuel a single supplemental heating appliance) or premium wood pellets (7.3 tons) according to the USDA's Fuel Calculator.

Regardless of what you burn, you'll have to clear out the ashes, clean the chimney, vent connector, and flueways, and perform basic maintenance. Also have the unit inspected annually by a Chimney Safety Institute of America-certified contractor.

Safety. Burning solid wood produces sparks, shifting embers, and creosote, a flammable liquid that can accumulate in and clog vents and chimney stacks. Wood can also ferry things like mold and mildew into the home, and stacked cords can shelter spiders, termites, insects, and even rodents. There's also the risk of fire and carbon-monoxide poisoning, so be sure to install and regularly test smoke and carbon-monoxide alarms. If you're felling trees and cutting wood with a chain saw, there are additional safety concerns.

Design considerations. Unlike boilers and furnaces, fireplace inserts and freestanding stoves often occupy public spaces of the home and might be the focal point of the room, which means they're made to be seen. They're available in a variety of styles and finishes—classic cast-iron potbellies and contemporary stainless-steel models—to match any décor. You'll get a sense of the options at the Web sites of the manufacturers below as well as at the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association Web site:

Appalachian Stove
Avalon
Blaze King
Breckwell Hearth Products
DESA Heating Products
England’s Stove Works
Energy King
Harman Stove Company
Kozy Heat Fireplaces
Kuma Stoves
Lennox Hearth Products
Napoleon Fireplaces
NU-TEC Incorporated
Rais
Vogelzang
Wittus

For some vacuums, smaller isn’t better

Got a cramped closet? Some of the latest vacuums Consumer Reports tested for our March 2008 report fold for compact storage, while others meld upright and canister features into one machine. But our vacuum tests show that several brands need to pay more attention to cleaning.

New uprights that fold include the Hoover Fold Away Widepath ($70) and the Electrolux Intensity ($300). We also tested the folding Dyson Stowaway ($500), the brand’s latest canister. Yet only the Electrolux was impressive at cleaning carpets—our toughest test and the type of cleaning vacuums typically do most. Indeed, only three of the latest models we tested were better than mediocre for carpet cleaning.

Our tests of more than 60 uprights and canisters include a new top performer among canister vacs. (See an alphabetized listing below of the vacuums in our Ratings as of the end of February 2008.) We also tested vacuums that claim to kill germs and clean their own filters, among other promises. But some could disappoint you if you value cleaning over gadgetry. Here are the details:

Less-than-magical wands. The new Dirt Devil i M130000 ($250), Dyson DC15 The Ball All Floors ($500), and Panasonic AeroBlast MC-UL975 ($700) uprights have handles you can remove and use as a canister-style wand to clean curtains and battle those dust bunnies beneath the couch. But like most of the newest folding vacs, two of those scored only a good for carpets, and the Dirt Devil scored only fair.

Big claims, middling performance. The AeroBlast includes a unique feature that promises to stretch filter life, among other benefits. (See our blog on the Panasonic AeroBlast.) But our test results belied those claims.

Halo Technologies says its uprights, including the UVX ($400), kill dust mites, flea eggs, and germs using UV light. We didn’t test those claims because the UVX was only so-so at the more primary tasks of cleaning carpets and picking up pet hair. What’s more, it has no hose or tools. (On February 26, 2008, the National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus recommended that Halo modify or discontinue certain advertising claims for one of its vacuums. Read more here: Download HaloVacuum.pdf)

Clobbered by cat fur. The Electrolux Harmony canister ($300) is the latest to flub our grueling pet-hair test. As with the brand’s TwinClean model, cat hair wound itself around the brush and stopped it—partly because the brush is driven by airflow, rather than by a motor.

A venerable brand has problems. A predecessor company to Hoover was the name on the first widely available electric vac in 1908, and Hoover is still a best seller. While Hoover vacuums are often fine values, our latest survey found more reliable upright brands, including Dyson, a relative newcomer.

Read our expert shopping advice and watch our video buying guide (above) for detailed information on what to look for in your next vacuum. And continue reading this blog to find out which models we’ve tested.

Scam Alert: Avoid “dirty” duct cleaners

The scenario: You get a flyer in the mail from a company offering to clean the air ducts at your home for only $99. Intrigued by the low price, you contact the company and set up an appointment.

When the company arrives at your house, the rep tries to sell you on a bunch of other services, including carpet cleaning or mold remediation, to improve the air quality inside your home. If you don’t bite at these invoice-increasing items, he gives your ducts a cursory cleaning before moving on to the next mark somewhere in your area.

That lowball offer should have been a red flag to avoid that firm. A reputable company will charge $400 to $1,000 to clean the ducts in a typical 2,000-square-foot house, says the National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA). A quality job should take two pros, who’ll use specialized tools, about 4 to 6 hours to complete.

Even more important to know is that there’s no proof that cleaning ducts prevents health problems, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Nor do studies conclusively show that dirty ducts increase levels of airborne particulates in a home. Still, there are times when you should get your ducts cleaned:
• Have the ductwork cleaned if it contains visible mold buildup or has debris coming out of supply registers, or if the ducts are infested with vermin. Check for problems by removing the registers and shining a flashlight into the ductwork.
• Consider having your ductwork professionally inspected if someone in your home is suffering from unexplained allergies or illness. Before you do that, however, a doctor should rule out other causes.

To find a reputable duct cleaner, get referrals from the company that services your furnace. You’ll also find NADCA member contractors in your area on the association’s Web site. Before you sign a contract, ask for evidence of contamination, including a lab report if mold is a concern. And be sure the company cleans the entire HVAC system, including the ducts, heat exchanger, and air handler.

After the work has been completed, insist on a thorough visual inspection—all components of the HVAC system should be free of visible dust and debris. A top-shelf pro might even use remote photography to show you the clean ducts.

Essential information: Read “Filtering the Claims” for information on air purifiers.

Dyson DC21 Stowaway: First Look

This compact canister vacuum excels at cleaning bare floors

Price we paid: $500

Date of Consumer Reports full report: March 2008

What it is. The DC21 is a new canister vacuum from Dyson, a company best known for its upright vacuums. This bagless model uses the same Root Cyclone technology as Dyson’s uprights and features a very compact design: The bin is smaller than that on the upright models and mounted 45 degrees to vertical on large wheels.

What we liked. As the name implies, the Stowaway is designed to take up minimal storage space. To store it, you detach the power head and mount it in a holder, coil the hose twice around the canister dirt bin, and place the wand end in a slot on the side. It takes a while to master coiling the hose, but once you do, you’ve got a very svelte unit—folded up it measures about 14 x 11 x 17½ inches, according to the manufacturer. All of the tools, except the bare-floor attachment, store on the unit, and you can even stand the vacuum upright.

In our initial tests, the Stowaway did an excellent job of cleaning bare floors, and its sustained airflow lends itself well to cleaning with the tools. Its emission levels have been extremely low when vacuuming, and this cleaner does not redistribute any dust it collects back into the air. It also comes with a lifetime, maintenance-free HEPA filter.

What we didn’t like. At 23 pounds, the Stowaway is heavy, especially for its small size. The beefy, gunlike grip and telescoping shaft make the wand heavy even without the power head, so using the tool can be fatiguing. Early tests show that its ability to clean carpets is only mediocre.

Our initial take. The DC21 is a worthy choice if storage space is a premium, but if you want a vacuum with outstanding cleaning power, there are better, less-expensive choices.

Essential information: Look for our full report on vacuums in the March 2008 issue of Consumer Reports. Visit our vacuum page, read our free buying advice, and watch our video shopping guide. And celebrate the 100th anniversary of the vacuum cleaner by reading "A Century of Doing America’s Dirty Work."               

Update in Sharper Image air-purifier class action

Last fall, a federal judge rejected the latest version of a proposed settlement to a class-action lawsuit filed on behalf of millions of consumers who purchased The Sharper Image's Ionic Breeze air purifier after April 1999. Under the proposed settlement in Figueroa v. Sharper Image Corp., the company had agreed to provide plaintiffs store credit worth $19 for each air purifier they had bought—the machines cost up to several hundred dollars apiece—and to make available at the highly reduced price of $7 an “OzoneGuard” attachment to reduce ozone emissions in each purifier purchased.

Judge Cecilia M. Altonaga, a trial judge in the Federal District Court in Miami, ruled that the parties involved in the class action had not established that the settlement terms were “fair, adequate, or reasonable,” and that arguments referring to The Sharper Image’s “precarious” financial position did not make them so. (The Sharper Image reported a drop in sales for October. Meanwhile, there’s been a significant decline in of the value of the company stock.) The attorneys general from 34 states and the District of Columbia also opposed the settlement.

In her ruling, Judge Altonaga also cited the Senate Judiciary Committee, which before passing the Class Action Fairness Act in 2005 decried settlements in which plaintiffs receive promotional coupons or other nominal damages while the lawyers representing the members of the class action get substantial fees. In Figueroa v. Sharper Image Corp., attorneys’ fees for the plaintiffs totaled $2 million.

Among objections to the settlement was one from a class member who had spent more than $500 on two Ionic Breeze purifiers but would have received only coupons worth $38. “The settlement is plagued by a cumbersome claims process that will make it extremely difficult for class members to even obtain the inadequate relief provided by this settlement,” read the 61-page denial of the settlement. (See Judge Altonaga’s decision here.)

In their suit against Sharper Image, plaintiffs had referred to past Consumer Reports tests of the Ionic Breeze that found, as we said in 2002, “almost no measurable reduction in airborne particles” and judged the model poor at removing dust and smoke from the air. (Consumer Reports’ policy does not permit the magazine to involve itself in litigation between other parties.)

Before the proposed settlement, many of the suits against The Sharper Image had been combined into a single nationwide complaint. Plaintiffs in one of the initial suits against the company had also claimed that the company "falsely advertised that the Ionic Breeze air purifier cleans and purifies the air," and that the Ionic Breeze is harmful because it emits ozone in excess of 50 parts per billion.

Following Judge Altonaga’s decision, The Sharper Image issued a statement expressing that it was “clearly disappointed” in the ruling.—Ed Perratore

Essential information: If you suffer from asthma or allergies or have other concerns about the air quality in your home, you might own or be considering buying a room or whole-house air purifier. As we reported in the December 2007 article “Filtering the claims,” there’s little definitive medical evidence that air purifiers help relieve respiratory symptoms, and some models might pose a threat even to healthy users.

Try these basic air-cleaning steps before you buy an air purifier. If you decide to purchase one, be sure to read our December 2007 report. You'll find buying advice and Ratings of room air cleaners. (Ratings of room and whole-house models are available to subscribers.) To see how those appliances clean the air in your home, read “Purifier types,” plus our updated recommendations on electrostatic precipitators and our warnings about two ozone generators.                            

Q&A: Can air purifiers get rid of household odors?

Our kitchen is poorly ventilated, so cooking odors tend to linger. Will an air purifier eliminate the smells?

Some manufacturers of air purifiers claim their machines will remove odors from your home as well as improve the overall air quality there. Hoping to sniff out the truth, we put five room air purifiers to the test.

Manufacturers use a range of different technologies to enable their machines to remove odors:
• The Whirlpool Whispure AP45030S, $230, highly rated in “Filtering the claims,” uses a thin carbon-fiber mat that also serves as a prefilter to remove large particles.

• The Bio-Net EGF Enhanced, a $750 electrostatic precipitator–type purifier, has a small shallow cartridge loaded with carbon granules.

• The IQAir HealthPro Plus, $800, and the Austin Air Systems HealthMate HM-400 (shown), $450, are equipped with large cartridges filled with carbon granules.

• The Winix PlasmaWave 5000, $300, combines a carbon filter with “PlasmaWave” technology said to, generate “both positive and negative ions” to create plasma clusters that “instantly neutralize viruses, bacteria, chemical vapors and odors in the air.”

Over the course of several days, we ran each of the five machines through its paces in the same sealed chamber we used to test for dust and smoke removal. Read the results of the testing below.

Dealing with the dangers of radon gas

January is National Radon Action Month. If you’re unsure whether your home has a high level of radon, it's time to find out if your house is among the estimated 1 in 15 with a dangerous level of the cancer-causing radioactive gas, which is estimated to claim 21,000 lives a year in this country.

"We know that radon-related deaths can be prevented," says EPA Mid-Atlantic Regional Administrator Donald S. Welsh. "No one has to live in a home with high radon levels because virtually any home with a radon problem can be fixed. Our hope is that once people understand this health risk, they will test their homes for radon and fix any problems they find."

There is no national requirement to test for radon, and the gas is found in every state, though the potential for high levels is greater in some locations (the EPA radon zone map is shown) particularly in the Northeast and Midwest. Check with your state radon office to learn about state-specific regulations and to find certified radon-testing and radon-mitigation companies.

What Is Radon?
You can't smell or see radon. It's an odorless, colorless gas that is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S. A study published in 2005 in the journal Epidemiology concluded your chance of getting lung cancer increases by 11 percent to 21 percent at average radon concentrations of about 3.0 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) of air over an exposure period of 5 to 30 years. The EPA recommends radon mitigation at 4.0 pCi/L. And if you're a smoker, the presence of radon in your home will considerably increase your chance of getting lung cancer.

The presence of radon doesn't mean your home was built over an atomic-waste dump. Its origins are natural—from the breakdown of uranium found in almost all soil. The gas finds its way into a home through such paths as cracks and other holes in the foundation.

Home Testing
While you might have had your home tested for radon when you purchased it, research indicates as many as 80 percent of American homes still need to be tested, according to the EPA and the Surgeon General's Office. Consumers Union, the nonprofit publisher of Consumer Reports, recommends not waiting for a home sale to check for the gas. If a test already has been completed, it is not necessary to repeat the test, unless you've fundamentally changed your home in a way that could allow more radon to enter the structure. Those changes include adding new windows and doors, modifying your heating or cooling system, adding or changing exhaust systems or any other element that could change the pressure and ventilation characteristics of the house, and building an addition.

Home test kits that measure the level of radon typically cost less than $20. In many locations, you can get discounted kits through your state or county health department or environmental-affairs department. The New York State Department of Health, for example, offers residents a kit for $6.75 and will provide a free kit within a year to any resident who has already had work done by a mitigation contractor and wants to verify that the radon level is low.

Short-term testing takes 2 to 7 days; long-term testing runs for 90 days, giving a more accurate picture of the year-round level. About all you have to do is place a sampling container in the lowest occupied level of your home, typically the basement. Seal the container immediately after the specified test period and send it to the laboratory marked on the package.

After the test is processed, sometimes in just a few days, you’ll receive a report by mail or e-mail or through a Web site that will show the measure of gas detected. You should perform a short-term or long-term follow-up test if the reading is more than 4.0 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). (Sometimes the test results show "Working Levels," or WL. The threshold of 4.0 pCi/L corresponds to 0.016 WL.)

If the radon level is high, you can hire a certified radon-remediation contractor. Find one through your state radon office or through these private organizations: the National Environmental Health Association and the National Radon Safety Board. Expect to pay about $800 to $2,500, with an average bill about $1,200.

Contractors will reduce the level of gas in your home by:
• Installing a suction system to draw the gas out of and away from the home
• Changing the ventilation and pressurization in the basement
• Sealing foundation cracks and openings

If you live in an area with a cold climate, it's best to test during the winter months, when windows are closed, limiting air exchange. The low pressure created by a chimney or other ventilation device can draw soil gases into the home near the foundation.

Essential information: To learn about other indoor-air-quality issues, read our report Indoor Air Quality: How Clean is the Air in Your Home? And watch this public-service announcement from the EPA.

A century of doing America’s dirty work

One hundred years ago in Canton, Ohio, James M. Spangler, an asthmatic department-store janitor, attached a broom handle, a sateen pillowcase, and an old fan motor to an empty soapbox, creating what would eventually become a must-have appliance for every U.S. household. Twenty-six million vacuum cleaners were sold in the United States in 2006, generating sales of $4.4 billion.

Motivated by a desire to lessen the cough-inducing dust kicked up by the manual carpet sweeper he used on the job, Spangler continued to tweak his invention. He received a patent for it in 1908 and started the Electric Suction Sweeper Company based in New Berlin, Ohio (now North Canton). A diagram from the patent application is shown here.

Although Spangler’s clever cleaner is crude by today’s standards, back then it impressed his cousin’s husband, William Hoover. A saddle maker and leather merchant, Hoover bought into Spangler’s company, eventually becoming president and changing the name to the familiar Hoover Company in 1922.

Unfortunately, most people weren’t as impressed as Hoover. He improved upon Spangler’s original design, but initial sales were sluggish. Enter the door-to-door salesman. Home demonstrations and 10-day free trials kick-started business.

Vacuum cleaners reached critical mass after World War II, when families moved to wall-to-wall carpeted homes in the suburbs and started raising mess-making baby boomers. As the industry evolved, vacuums became lighter, traded cloth bags for disposable, and came with accessories.

The next major change in vacuum technology came in the 1980s, when British inventor James Dyson developed a bagless model. Frustrated by conventional vacuums that lost suction as the bag filled up, Dyson created a machine that used centrifugal force to fling dirt out of the airflow’s path.

The handy vacuum has long been one of the most popular products we review. (The photo here shows a suction test from 1954.) Today, vacuum cleaners come in many shapes, sizes, and types: upright and canister (Ratings are available to subscribers), handheld, wet/dry, stick sweepers, central systems, and robotic.

In keeping with Spangler’s original inspiration, vacuum makers are now pushing asthma and allergen relief along with the usual cleaning as their claims move beyond carpets and floors. It’s worth noting that our recent tests show that those promises sometimes mean less than they suggest.—Helen A.S. Popkin

Essential information: Want to find out more about the latest innovations modern vacuum cleaners offer? Read our free buying advice and watch our video shopping guide.

Tip of the day: How to choose an air purifier

Consumers Union, the nonprofit publisher of Consumer Reports, continues to urge the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission to set indoor ozone limits for all air purifiers and mandate performance tests and labels disclosing the results. CU also urges the Federal Trade Commission to investigate air purifier ads to determine the validity of health-related claims.

But if you're set on buying an air purifier, read our latest report “Filtering the claims” and see our Ratings of room and whole-house models (available to subscribers) and keep these points in mind:

Consider a whole-house air purifier. Forced-air heating/cooling systems circulate so much air that they can overwhelm portable purifiers. Whole-house purifiers are a better option. Better products range from $10 to $30 for do-it-yourself filters (shown) to $1,000-plus systems that have to be installed by a pro. The latter are more effective at removing dust and smoke.DIY furnace filters do nearly as good a job of removing dust but aren't as good at removing smoke. Buy a whole-house air purifier with a filter rather than an electrostatic precipitator, which produces some ozone.

Buy a bigger portable model. Portable air purifiers work best at high speeds but are quietest on low. Run the unit on the higher, louder setting when you're not in the room, and turn it down to low when you're nearby. Or buy an air purifier certified for a larger area. We believe a clean-air delivery rate (CADR) above 350 is excellent, and one below 100 is poor. Look for CADR figures with an Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) logo. Only those were confirmed by AHAM.

Avoid ozone generators. Makers of ozone generators often target home users with claims that the devices reduce allergens such as dust, smoke, pollen, germs, and mold.

But our tests found that even at the low everyday settings on some ozone generators, their ozone production quickly exceeded the Food and Drug Administration’s 50 parts per billion limit for medical devices. Purifiers aren't considered medical devices by the FDA.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency warns that relatively low levels of ozone can cause chest pain and shortness of breath. Ozone might also worsen asthma and compromise the ability of the body to fight respiratory infections. The EPA regulates outdoor ozone levels, but there is no federal agency that regulates indoor levels or air purifiers. California has recently banned the sale of ozone generators for most uses.—Ed Perratore

Tip of the day: Buy the right vacuum

Vacuums are popular with visitors to ConsumerReports.org and readers of Consumer Reports—indeed, "vacuum" is among the most widely searched terms on our Web site. Manufacturers, seeming to have picked up on your interest, continue to introduce new models and new types with myriad bells and whistles and claimed benefits. We'll even be testing one model designed to use ultraviolet light to kill dust mites.

(Consumer Reports has been testing vacs for decades, as illustrated by the circa-1954 photograph shown. In this image, a technician is measuring the suction ability of a vacuum.)
 
Given this crowded market filled with topnotch performers as well as middling models, it's essential to match the type of vacuum you choose to the kind of cleaning you typically do. Below you'll find a description of the common types and the pros and cons of each.

Once you know which style you want, read our latest reports on vacuums and wet/dry models and refer to our Ratings of upright, canister, wet/dry (available to subscribers) to choose the right model for your home. Before you shop, be sure to watch our exclusive video buying guide.

UPRIGHT
Best for deep-cleaning carpets. Most upright vacuums are less expensive and easier to store than canister vacuums.

But you must push and pull the entire machine for most floor and carpet cleaning. When you’re vacuuming on stairs, an upright is less stable than canister models.

Price: $100 to $500 for most models

CANISTER
Best for cleaning bare floors, and stairs, drapes, and upholstery using tools. Canisters are more stable on stairs than uprights. The head fits under furniture, and you move only the head and hose.

But the entire machine tends to be heavier, bulkier, and pricier. Most aren’t as effective on carpets.

Price: $150 to $700 for most models

STICK SWEEPER
Best for light cleaning of carpets, bare floors, and edges. These suctionless sweepers are relatively quiet and have long battery run times.

But they’re not designed to deep-clean carpets, and on bare floors they might scatter debris, such as rice, kitty litter, and other common spills for which they’re designed.

Price: $20 to $80

STICK VACUUM
Best for light-duty cleaning on short-pile carpets and bare floors.

But they have trouble cleaning larger items off carpet and deliver shorter run times than sweepers, and some are no easier to push than full-size vacuums.

Price: $30 to $100

WET/DRY
Best for cleaning heavy dust, remodeling debris, liquids, and other tougher messes.

But dust emissions are high with some models. The largest can be hard to maneuver and store; the cheapest often aren’t very effective. All are noisy.

Price: $30 to $150 for most models

HAND
Best for spot cleanups on carpets and bare floors.

But you need to stoop when using one, and most handhelds lose power quickly, making them suitable only for occasional use.

Price: $20 to $60

ROBOTIC
Best for their novelty and low effort between regular vacuuming in uncluttered rooms.

But they’re expensive as a group and time-consuming to set up and run. In our test, most also tended to miss edges and corners.

Price: $200 to $1,800

CENTRAL SYSTEM
Best for canisterlike cleaning without carrying the body. They tend to be relatively quiet and can be emptied infrequently.

But central vacs are pricey and often require professional installation. The
30-foot hose can be cumbersome and takes up storage space. And there's no
place to carry tools while you work.

Price: $500 to $1,250 with tools; $300 to $750 to install

Hunter Fan Co. humidifier recall

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission on November 6 announced the recall of about 84,000 Hunter Fan Co. Warm Mist Carefree Humidifiers due to a fire hazard. The humidifiers ($40 to $65) were sold from September 2005 through February 2007 at Lowe's and Wal-Mart stores nationwide as well as at other discount and hardware stores and through mail-order catalogs and Web retailers.

For detailed information on the recalled humidifiers, go to the manufacturer’s recall page or read the CPSC's announcement.

California regulates “ozone generator” air purifiers

In a step that surpasses federal and other state efforts to regulate the emissions from air purifiers, the California Air Resources Board has moved to ban the sale of some ozone generator air purifiers and could even affect some air purifiers that generate ozone as a by-product.

In late September, CARB deemed “hazardous” hundreds of different models of ozone generator and air purifier that emit ozone in amounts greater than 50 parts per billion (ppb) in tests and approved a regulation to limit the amount of ozone air purifiers can produce to be certified for open sale in the state. Manufacturers will have 24 months from when the ruling takes effect (the projected date is next April) to get their air purifiers tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory and certified by CARB.

Beyond that 24-month period, any model that that exceeds the 50-ppb threshold must be labeled as appropriate only for industrial use and have a warning about its ozone emissions; electronic models for residential, commercial, in-vehicle, and personal use are affected. CARB also plans to embark on a public-education campaign to discourage state residents from buying ozone generators even before the 24-month period has elapsed.

The California regulation particularly targets what are commonly called ozone generators, which by design produce large amounts of ozone. Manufacturers of ozone generators tout a variety of health benefits. However, the federal EPA has cautioned generally that any ozone produced would have to greatly exceed public-health standards to be effective at removing most indoor-air contaminants and irritants, including germs, smoke, dust, and odors.

(The best-selling air purifiers in the U.S. market are known as electrostatic precipitators. Sold by Oreck, The Sharper Image, and others, they use a technology that typically produces less than 50 ppb of ozone as a by-product; these will also have to undergo testing. Another type, filter-based models, produces no ozone.)

Even relatively low levels of ground-level ozone, the chief ingredient of smog, have been linked to decreases in lung function and increased risks of throat irritation, coughing, chest pain, and lung-tissue inflammation. For outdoor air, the federal standard is a maximum eight-hour average concentration of 80 ppb; California’s standard is 70 ppb, near the level the U.S. EPA has recently proposed.

While no formal standard for indoor air exists, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration imposes a 50-ppb limit on medical devices. But air purifiers don’t fit into this classification.

The regulation, according to CARB, could prevent exposure to potentially harmful levels of ozone for an estimated 828,000 Californians. CARB has generated a list of potentially hazardous ozone generators, which includes products designed for use in single rooms, whole houses, cars, entire floors of commercial spaces, and even “personal air purifiers” worn around the neck. Note that CARB will periodically update the list, and that a product’s nonappearance on the list doesn’t mean it is necessarily safe. No whole-house products that attach to forced-air HVAC systems, for example, are so far on the list.

Eliminating allergens and ventilating spaces are more effective than any air purifier, say experts at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the American Lung Association. If you’re considering buying an air purifier, read our latest report, “Filtering the claims,” from the December 2007 of Consumer Reports .—Ed Perratore

Blueair AirPod air purifier: First Look

This compact model is quiet, but is it effective?

Name of product: Blueair AirPod

Price we paid: $100

Date of Consumer Reports full report: December 2007

What it is. This HEPA-filter-equipped air purifier, which sort of resembles an oversized iPod, stands a compact 13 inches high x 6.3 inches wide x 4.3 inches deep. The manufacturer claims this air purifier can clean the air in a 5x6-foot space. Keeping with the iPod motif, the cardboard casing of the filter slides into a so-called “docking station” that includes a small electric fan.

This air purifier comes in a number of patterns and colors, including “waves” (shown), “trees,” and “paisley,” so you can match it to a room décor. When you buy a unit in pink, Blueair will donate 5 percent of the proceeds to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

What we liked. In our preliminary tests, the AirPod was quiet even when running on high and used the least energy of all the portable models we tested.

What we didn’t like. The manufacturer’s claim that it can clean a 5x6-foot space is, in our judgment, a significant limitation since most rooms are bigger than that. We’ve been testing the AirPod in our standard 12x18-foot chamber, and it has not done a good job removing dust and smoke.

Our initial take. The AirPod is quiet and stylish, but its air-cleaning performance so far has struck a bad chord.

Look for our full report on room and whole-house air purifiers, with Ratings of 60 different models, in the December 2007 issue of Consumer Reports.

NRDC cites concerns over air fresheners

If you typically try to cover up unpleasant odors inside your home with plug-in air fresheners or scented sprays, gels, and oils, you might want to reconsider using these products. Many of them contain phthalates, according to an issue paper recently released by the Natural Resources Defense Council. Phthalates, which dissolve and then carry the smell of fragrances, have been linked to hormonal abnormalities, birth defects, and reproductive problems. Once these chemicals are released into the air, you can inhale them or they can land on your skin and be absorbed.

The NRDC, Sierra Club, the Alliance for Health Homes, and the National Center for Healthy Housing are petitioning the Environmental Protection Agency and the Consumer Product Safety Commission to test all air fresheners on the market and assess the risks they might pose to consumers. “Because there are no labeling requirements