Learn more about the Amish heater and EdenPure space heater

The calendar indicates that heating season is  upon us, but the Home & Garden blog team doesn't need to look at a thermometer or watch the Weather Channel to know it's starting to get colder here in the New York City metro area and elsewhere around the country.

Nope, all we've got to do is look at the traffic to and comments about heating appliances on the Home & Garden blog and ConsumerReports.org. Specifically, readers are looking for information about the Heat Surge Roll-n-Glow Electric Fireplace (aka the Amish heater), EdenPure space heaters, and pellet stoves.

• If you're considering the Heat Surge appliance, read our review of the Amish heater as well as our post about some consumer complaints to the Better Business Bureau. And remember, although Heat Surge claims its heaters will help you save on your heating bills, the only way to do so is to employ zone heating. (Note: According to a customer-service representative at Heat Surge, heaters made in 2009 were updated with a stronger blower and other changes affecting heat distribution. The company also says it plans to add a thermostat on future versions, possibly in 2010. The model we purchased and reviewed early this year might have incorporated some or all of the updates.)

• If you're pondering buying an EdenPure space heater, read "Are EdenPure Space Heaters Just a Lot of Hot Air?"
 
• If a pellet stove seems like a viable heating option, learn more about these appliances in our October 2009 report and our previous buyer's guide to pellet- and wood-burning stoves.

Essential information: "Don't Let Energy Savings Go Up and Out the Chimney" covers proven ways to save energy during heating season. And learn about space heaters, programmable thermostats, and weatherizing your attic. If you're in the market for new heating equipment, get up to speed on the $300 million State Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Program, aka cash for clunkers for appliances.

Tip of the Day: Find the right caulk for your home project

As you might have already encountered in the caulk aisle at your local home center, there's a dizzying array of caulking products in tubes, cartridges, and aerosol cans. All those choices could make finding the right caulk for the job a hassle. The chart below covers the major categories of caulk and can help you find the best material for your project.

Why use caulk? When the right type of caulk is applied properly, it can protect your home from the elements and make it more energy efficient or prevent leaks from the shower or tub. What's more, our stories on five key home repairs and smart ways to cut your energy use reveal how important caulk can be.

Modern caulk formulations are relatively inexpensive and many are easy to apply, simple to paint over, and a snap to clean up. Althogh the 30 percent federal tax credit on purchases of weatherization materials doesn't apply to caulking, state incentives are often available.

Ed Pollack, a team leader for residential-energy-efficiency research at the U.S. Department of Energy, recommends you use water-based foam sealants since they're easier to clean up. And he urges you to start caulking from the outside first. "You want to seal openings in your home's exterior that could allow water and cause mold or ruin the caulking you've done to interior spaces."—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Consider weatherizing your attic to save money and boost comfort at home year-round. Our Energy Saving & Green Living guide offers many ways to weatherize your home and make it more efficient. And the Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs provides illustrated instructions for key do-it-yourself weatherization projects, and with the purchase of the book you get a free 30-day trial of ConsumerReports.org, including access to the ratings.

Type of Caulk	Best Use(s)	Pros	Cons	Price
Acrylic tub and tile	To seal kitchen and bathroom fixtures.	Flexible; mildew resistant; cleans up with water.	Not paintable; not as durable as 100% silicone.	$4 and up per tube
Butyl rubber	To seal and fill around windows and skylights and around flashings and in gutters to seal dissimilar materials (glass, metal, plastic, wood, and concrete). More flexible (can stretch in multiple directions) than silicone. Good in areas that experience high temperature variations. Formulations with with asphalt are best for roofing repairs.	More flexible (can stretch in multiple directions) than silicone; can be painted after curing one week. Good in areas that experience high temperature variations. Formulations with asphalt are best for roofing repairs.	Does not adhere well to painted surfaces; shrinkage varies; might require two applications. Can be toxic; precautions must be taken and requires solvent cleanup.	$3.50 and up per tube
Concrete and mortar repair	To repair cracks in concrete and damaged masonry and mortar.	Can be shaped to fit before drying; remains flexible, cleans up with water, dries to color of concrete mortar or can be painted.	Not recommended for horizontal surfaces where water could accumulate.	$4.50 and up per tube
Latex	To seal gaps in exterior walls and plug holes and fill gaps in interior walls and woodwork before painting.	Inexpensive; takes paint well;, can be sanded; easy to work with; cleans up with water.	Will crack eventually where temperatures vary greatly (acrylic latex formulations are more durable); needs to be painted when used outdoors; won't adhere to metal.	$1.50 and up per tube
Oil or resin-based	To seal gaps in exterior walls.	Inexpensive; will bond to most surfaces.	Cracks after a few years; much less durable than elastomeric (silicone, latex, or acrylic) caulks.	$1 and up per tube
100% silicone	To fill around pipes and vents and building structures made of nonporous materials and plumbing fixtures. Not as effective on wood or masonry.	Very durable and flexible; doesn't crack.	Expensive; limited colors; can't be painted or sanded, gives off strong odor when curing; solvent required for cleanup.	$4.50 and up per tube
Siliconized latex	Same uses as 100% silicone, except not on plumbing fixtures.	Very durable and flexible; rarely cracks, many colors available; cleans up with water; less expensive than 100% silicone.	Can't be sanded.	$3.50 and up per tube
Spray foam (polyurethane-based)	To seal around window and door frames or to fill cracks and holes.	Expands more than latex and fills a greater area than caulking alone.	Expands after application, so it can warp door and window frames; can't resist UV light; must be painted for exterior use; very difficult to clean up after use.	$5.40 and up per can (but one can fills as much space as many tubes of caulking)
Spray foam (water-based)	Around window and door frames or to fill cracks and holes.	Does not expand as much as polyurethane foam; can be shaped while wet; easy cleanup with water; will not cause windows or doors to bind.	Does not adhere as tightly to materials as urethane; takes longer to cure (up to 24 hours).	$5 and up per can (but one can can fill as much space as many tubes of caulking)

By the Numbers: Energy Star homes reach major milestone

1 million

Number of Energy Star-qualified homes built nationwide since the program debuted in 1995. These homes have saved Americans $1.2 billion in energy costs, reduced greenhouse-gas emissions by 22 billion pounds, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The top 10 markets for Energy Star homes are Houston, Dallas, Las Vegas, Phoenix, Los Angeles, New York City, Tucson, San Antonio, Sacramento, and San Diego.

To qualify for Energy Star, says the EPA, a new home must be at least 15 percent more efficient than homes built to the 2004 International Residential Code and include other features that make them 20 to 30 percent more efficient than standard home, such as effective insulation, high-performance windows, and efficient heating and cooling equipment, appliances, lighting, and ventilation. (The image below, from Energy Star, shows typical locations of air leaks in a home. Check out our recent Weekend Project on weatherizing your attic.)

"This is an amazing achievement for the Energy Star program, but the real winners are the 1 million American families who have the chance to save money and keep harmful pollution out of the air. That's great news for anyone who wants to cut costs and protect our planet," said EPA Administrator Lisa P. Jackson in a press release. "We're going to keep the number of Energy Star homes growing, because every new Energy Star home is a step towards lower costs, cleaner air, and communities that are environmentally and economically sustainable."

To boost the energy efficiency of your home and save some real money, start with these simple, inexpensive steps and follow our overall advice for using less energy at home.—Celia Kuperszmid Lehrman | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you haven't done so already, get your heating system tuned up and install a programmable thermostat. Also refer to our buyer's guides to furnaces (more details here), water heaters, pellet stoves, and solar water heaters, and find the best compact fluorescent lightbulbs. Remember, some projects might qualify for federal tax credits. If you want energy-efficient appliances, stay up on the news related to the $300 million State Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Program, also known as cash for clunkers for appliances.

 

10 Questions for . . . Jon Strimling, President of WoodPellets.com

In this installment of 10 Questions for . . ., Associate Editor Gian Trotta speaks with Jon Strimling, president of WoodPellets.com about the pellet market. Strimling also addresses some of our readers' concerns about wood pellets and their delivery.

Last year there were reports of pellet shortages. What are the prospects for pellet supplies this winter?
We're clearly in a better position now at the macro level than we were last year, when oil prices shot through the roof in May, June, and July and caused a run on pellet supplies. The industry usually has until November to provide enough fuel for a winter season, but last year many people saw prices going up and thought that they should get their pellets early.

The sudden surge in demand was challenging, and there were times last year when one coast or another would go into back order. But the country has never been short of supply; it was just a case of the product sitting in the wrong place. We were able to keep a flow, but pellets were traveling farther and cost of transport was higher.

A fair bit of additional capacity has also become available. Over past few years 20 new mills have started producing pellets in U.S. and Canada, and new capacity has been added to existing plants. This year, a major boost to raw-material supplies consists of lodgepole pines in Colorado and British Columbia. Because of beetle infestations in recent years, there is an enormous quality of dead standing timber being removed for forest-fire mitigation, and the highest-value use of that resource is pellets.

Will all those factors offset the reduction in pellet raw materials from lumber and wood-flooring production?
Certainly, housing starts are down, and that has reduced capacity of some mills that rely on that stream of dry residual wood. But most of the newer mills can employ "green chips" that enable them to continue to produce premium pellets, and in some cases even superpremium pellets. These clean, debarked chips are cut before wood is dried, for example from the lumber cut from side of logs to square them.

How vulnerable are pellet-producing plants to supply interruptions?
Fortunately, production is dispersed among several areas and companies to reduce chance of shortages. Individual pellet-supply facilities can go down, especially if they are linked to a particular lumber mill. The network of 80 to 100 plants is as a whole pretty robust, so if someone goes down, someone else will pick up that volume.

One of our readers noted that when he began using pellets five years ago, pellets were $110 a ton, now he's paying $265. What is your long-term forecast for pellet prices?
It may be that this consumer got a very unusual deal in 2005 through some sort of a clearance event, because that price is much lower than even typical wholesale pricing was in 2005. If you look at when we started this business in 2006, our retail price was right about what it is now. In 2008, pricing went up about 10 percent.

If you go back five to 10 years ago when crude was cheaper, pellets cost less. Wood and pellets are typically moved by trucks that use diesel fuel, which has gone up since then; so there's no avoiding that pellet prices will rise as oil rises, as diesel fuel is an element of pellets' cost. Normally, when the price of oil doubles, it results in an increase in transportation costs for pellets of about 25 percent.

How do sales of pellet-burning appliances affect your demand forecast?
Last year, sales of pellet-burning appliances were up 180 percent. We won't see sales like that repeat this year—probably not until the next spike in oil pricing. But every heating system sold creates an incremental increase in demand, and people who have systems are continuing to use them, even with oil at lower price levels.

What we're seeing this year is that demand for pellets is coming later. There hasn't been mad rush to go out and buy supply, so we're seeing a later buying season with strong demand. There's not a feeling of panic of everyone this year like last year with the continued growth in the industry. Folks with stoves and inserts are telling friends to go out and buy a pellet-burning stove.

What's the difference between premium and superpremium pellets?
The Pellet Fuel Institute just released a new standard for superpremium pellets and is working out the statistical data around the new methodology. Ash level is a major distinction. Premium has a maximum of 1 percent ash content while superpremium has less than one-half of one percent. That's a big deal to a stove owner because you're cleaning your stove half as often.

Other things tested by the PFI include Btu content, length and diameter of the pellets, and durability. The heating value and ash level are of primary interest to a consumer. The range of variation for the heating value can be 10 percent, but ash level can vary by a factor of three. Moisture level is inversely proportional to heating performance also.

At opening of Florida solar-energy facility, President Obama focuses on smart grid and renewable energy

On Tuesday, President Barack Obama promoted the smart grid and renewable energy at the opening of Florida Power & Light's DeSoto Next Generation Solar Energy Center (shown). The facility consists of more than 90,500 solar panels, making it the largest solar-photovoltaic plant in the country and, according to FPL, its annual estimated generation is about 42,000 megawatt hours.

The president outlined how the federal government is making a $3.4 billion investment from Recovery Act funds to modernize the country's electric grid with a goal of creating a more-reliable, more-efficient system. "But getting there will take a few more days like this one and more projects like this one," said the president. "And I have often said that the creation of such an economy is going to require nothing less than the sustained effort of an entire nation—an all-hands-on-deck approach similar to the mobilization that preceded World War II or the Apollo Project."

If you're interested in using solar power at your home, read our report on solar water heaters from the October 2009 issue of Consumer Reports and look for ongoing coverage of these devices on this blog, such as this testing update from earlier this month.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: The president referred to World War II the other day, and it was during this era that George Löf undertook his first experiments with solar power. Löf, a solar innovator who died earlier this month at the age of 95, is credited with creating one of the earliest solar-heated homes in this country, according to his obituary in The Wall Street Journal. Löf's system consisted of a large glass roof panel that heated a pile of gravel in the basement, which in turn warmed the house.

Official White House photo by Chuck Kennedy

Weekend Project: Weatherize your attic to save money and boost comfort at home year-round

Properly weatherizing your attic can cut 10 to 30 percent off your heating and cooling bills, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. And while you might not want to spend the money (or the time) to do the work, keep in mind that the federal government offers a 30 percent tax credit up to a maximum of $1,500 on weatherization materials, and utilities and states in place like Massachusetts, New York, and Washington offer additional incentives that sometimes cover labor costs.

There are some simple things to remember when weatherizing your attic, such as never using duct tape on, well, ducts. Also know that if some conditions are present, such as if your insulation is wet or there's mold or knob-and-tube wiring, you should hire a contractor to do the work.

Otherwise follow this advice from the DOE's do-it-yourself guide to attic insulation (PDF) and our own Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs to seal up your attic and start saving money now. Download this PDF from the book for more details on insulating your attic and/or basement: Insulate Basement-Attic, and watch our video.

1. If you see dirty insulation . . .
It means air is passing through the insulation from the heated space below because most thermal-insulation products are not air barriers. Search for the source of airflow, such as a large open chase or smaller gaps around an electrical wire or junction box or plumbing pipes or vents

2. If you see narrow gaps less than 1/2 inch wide . . .
Seal gaps with the appropriate caulking. If the crack is deep, use flexible backer rod before caulking. (Gaps around heating-system flues, chimneys, or recessed lights should be handled differently to avoid a fire hazards; see the precautions below.)

3. If you see gaps more than 1/2 to 2 inches wide . . .
First, close up large openings using scrap wood or metal flashing that you screw in place. Then caulk all seams and small gaps or seal using expandable, spray-in water- or foam-based sealant. Remember, foam-based sealants can expand to several times their original volume, crush flexible vent pipes, and cause structural damage if too much is applied. Water-based foams expand less; you can also use fiberglass insulation stuffed in a plastic bag. When working, wear gloves, long sleeves, and a dust mask specifically marked as being for fiberglass insulation. And remember, foam-based sealant is also nearly impossible to remove if you get it on your skin, and fiberglass insulation can irritate skin.

4. If you see uninsulated areas around light fixtures or where chimneys and furnace flues penetrate through floors . . .
Most recessed light fixtures that protrude up into the attic should not be covered with insulation, which could cause them to overheat. Instead, use a similar barrier made of sheet metal, wire mesh, or lumber to keep the insulation away from the light housing. These fixtures also allow air to flow, but unfortunately most cannot be sealed directly. You can build a larger box enclosure around each fixture that can serve as the air barrier, or you can have the fixtures replaced with a version that is an air barrier type rated for insulation contact as well.

For chimneys or flue pipes, use a heat-resistant caulking or follow the DOE's instructions to create a sheet-metal insulation dam that will keep insulation 2 inches away from the heat source.

5. If you see joist edges showing above your current attic insulation . . .
Add another layer of roll insulation perpendicular to the joists. Use a piece of scrap wood to push the first line into place under the eaves but don't block airflow from the eave out into the attic space. While the attic floor surface should be insulated, an air gap should exist between the roof rafters so air can flow between the eave and the rest of the attic. Don't use foil-faced insulation. The layer of insulation below should have an existing vapor barrier.

In general, good building practice requires three barriers of protection on the surface that separates the heated and cooled living space of the rooms below and the unconditioned attic space above. These barriers are the thermal insulation to slow the heat loss (or gain), the air barrier to stop uncontrolled air exchange between the two spaces, and the vapor barrier to prevent moisture migration. Typically, the vapor barrier should be on the warm side of this dividing surface, so in a warm climate it would be on the attic side of the thermal insulation, and in a cold climate it would be on the living space side of the thermal insulation. The air and vapor barrier can be provided by one product or separate products or approaches.

Shale gas holds promise, but drilling for it is controversial

As we covered in Buzzword: Shale gas, this natural gas contained within fine-grained, sedimentary rock is a topic of much interest for the energy industry. There are vast reserves of shale gas nationwide, and energy companies are working hard and fast to tap these natural-gas sources through what's called water fracturing, also known as hydraulic fracturing or hydrofracking. (The graphic below details how hydrofracking works. It was created by Al Granberg and is being used courtesy of ProPublica: Journalism in the Public Interest, a site that features lots of coverage of shale gas and gas drilling.)

As you might expect, there's more to shale gas than the promise of abundant supplies of natural gas and lower prices for consumers. There's also concern that the process used to tap into the shale-gas reserves presents serious environmental and health risks.

Today's New York Times features an interesting story, "Gas Company Won't Drill in New York Watershed," on the decision by Chesapeake Energy not to drill for natural gas in upstate New York after the Oklahoma City-based corporation's plans met with strong opposition. If you're interested in the topic of shale gas, give it a read.—Steven H. Saltzman | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: If you haven't already, get your heating system tuned up. And to save money on your utility bills, install a programmable thermostat, read our buyer's guides to furnaces (more details here), solar water heaters, and pellet stoves, and follow our overall advice for using less energy at home.

A tale of two Super Bowl ads: GE's smart grid and Cash4Gold

The broadcast for last February's Super Bowl XLIII, in which the Pittsburgh Steelers edged the Arizona Cardinals, featured the usual roster of ads vying for your attention and Twitter posts if not your money.

Among the more notable spots were this one for Cash4Gold, in which Ed McMahon and MC Hammer urged people to trade in their precious jewelry for cold, hard cash and this one for GE's efforts related to the smart grid, in which an animated scarecrow sings an updated rendition of The Wizard of Oz tune "If I Only Had a Brain" (shown).

The intervening months have not been kind to Cash4Gold, as you can read in the coverage by our colleagues at the Consumerist.

The smart grid has fared significantly better. About $4.5 billion in federal stimulus money from the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 is being doled out by the U.S. Department of Energy to help utilities turn the existing power grid into a smart network. This modernization is designed to enable two-way communication between utilities and consumers.provide safer, more-efficient management of the electric grid, and save you money.

Based on what I heard during an Edison Electric Institute event last week in New York City, it seems as if the stimulus influx for the smart grid has the country's biggest power companies in good spirits.

"We've been talking about the smart grid for years," said Thomas R. Kuhn, EEI president and event moderator. "It's finally coming to fruition." He added that 58 million smart meters will be installed in U.S. homes within the next 10 years. Pacific Gas & Electric, for instance, says it has deployed smart meters for nearly 4 million of its 15 million customers in California and installs 13,000 every day.

During the event, Andrew Tang, senior director of PG&E's Smart Energy Web, talked about the "changing relationship between consumers and their electric bill" that smart meters catalyze. For example, instead of paying a flat rate for electricity, customers pay a time-of-use rate, with peak hours occurring from midday to early evening. Customers can also buy an energy orb (shown), a plug-in device that changes colors to indicate real-time changes in the price of electricity. A simple visual signal like this results in energy reductions ranging from 22 to 37 percent, according to Tang. And more-sophisticated technologies are on the way, including comprehensive in-home displays and programmable communicating thermostats, which are supposed to automatically adjust temperatures based on pricing signals they receive from the utility.

Looking at the future of the energy-efficient home at the 2009 Solar Decathlon

Mother Nature didn't make it easy for the teams that took part in 2009 Solar Decathlon, hosted by the U.S. Department of Energy on the National Mall in Washington, D.C. The homes designed and built by 20 college and university teams were put through the weather wringer during the final days of the event last weekend, with cold, rainy, overcast weather prevailing—not exactly ideal conditions for solar-powered homes.

The homes in the 2009 Solar Decathlon were judged on 10 characteristics, including architecture, comfort, lighting, appliances, hot water, home entertainment, and market viability, or how easy and affordable the home is to build. Readily available products used in the houses include compact fluorescent lightbulbs and LED lighting, induction cooktops, front-loading washing machines, energy-efficient windows, bamboo flooring, and low-VOC paint.

Team Germany took first prize in the fourth installment of this competition (see its home in the video above) earning 908.29 points out of a possible 1,000, followed by the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, and Team California with 863.08 points. See the complete final standings.

With umbrella in hand and galoshes on feet, I checked out the future of the energy-efficient home. (You can avoid any inclement weather by visiting the 20 projects via a virtual tour.)

While the competition calls for uniformity in overall size—houses can be no larger than 800 square feet—the first thing I noticed was how different the houses looked from one another. With teams from throughout the U.S. as well as Canada, German, Puerto Rico, and Spain, each featured a design unique to its climate and region.

New agreement sets regional standards for heating and cooling appliances, could save consumers billions

The Pledge of Allegiance describes the United States as "one nation . . . indivisible." But a new agreement among manufacturers of heating and cooling equipment and energy-efficiency advocates divides the country in three.

The voluntary "Agreement on Legislative and Regulatory Strategy for Amending Federal Energy Efficiency Standards, Test Procedures, Metrics and Building Code Provisions for Residential Central Air Conditioners, Heat Pumps, Weatherized and Non-Weatherized Furnaces And Related Matters" splits the country into north, south, and southwest regions (shown) and mandates new, tougher efficiency standards for that heating and cooling equipment. The agreement raises the minimum efficiency of residential central-air-conditioning systems by about 8 percent and furnaces by about 13 percent.

The agreement was signed by the Alliance to Save Energy, the Appliance Standards Awareness Project; the Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute; the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy; the California Energy Commission; the Natural Resources Defense Council; Northeast Energy Efficiency Partnerships; and the Northwest Power and Conservation Council. Among the manufacturers who inked the agreement are Bard Manufacturing, Carrier Corporation, Goodman Manufacturing, Johnson Controls/York, Lennox International, Mitsubishi Electric and Electronics USA, National Comfort Products, Nordyne, Rheem Manufacturing, and Trane/Ingersoll Rand.

The new standards will go into effect in 2013, and by 2030 they could save consumers $13 billion, an average annual savings of $100 per household. Over that time, the more-efficient equipment will use 3.7 quadrillion Btu less energy, equivalent to that used by about 18 million households in a year, and in 2030 reduce annual greenhouse-gas emissions by 23 million metric tons, equal to what equal to 4 million cars produce every year.

Manufacturers should benefit from not having to deal with multiple state standards. "Massachusetts, for example, applied for a waiver from federal furnace standards they felt were too weak, so there was a lot of uncertainty among manufacturers of what the requirements they were going to be," notes Lowell Ungar, director of policy for the Alliance to Save Energy.

Tougher standards might also prompt manufacturers to try to exceed them. "It depends on the circumstances, but air conditioners in general have gotten much more efficient. The shift from the SEER-10 to SEER-13 minimum standard was a 30 percent improvement, and the market also shifted, so you could find SEER-14 and -15 models, and if the standard were to go higher, manufacturers will come out with SEER-17 and -18 models," says Ungar.—Gian Trotta | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: Check out our free buyer's guides to furnaces and air conditioners and refer to our brand repair history for gas furnaces and central-air-conditioning systems (available to subscribers). See our Energy Saving & Green Living guide for more details on ways to cut your utility bills and improve your home and stay on top of the news related to the cash for clunkers for appliances rebate program.

Image courtesy of Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute, Alliance to Save Energy, and American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy