Popularity of pellet stoves drives delivery-system innovation

Sales of pellet stoves continue to sizzle. Through the first six months of 2008, shipments were up 135 percent over 2007, according to the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association.

As a result, in New England, where a majority of this country's estimated 800,000 operating pellet stoves have been sold, units are reportedly on back order into 2009. (To learn more about this equipment, read our buyer's guide to pellet- and wood-burning stoves.)

The pellets used in pellet stoves are often made from sawdust recovered from lumber mills, furniture factories, and flooring manufacturers. Pellets are also made from corn, wheat, sunflower seeds, and other biomass ingredients.

Whatever their raw material, pellets have traditionally been sold at home centers, supermarkets, and other retailers in 40- to 50-pound packages. When you consider that an average stove might burn through a couple pounds of pellets every hour during the winter months, loading all those bags into your car and unloading them at home can be a lot of work.

That's why more suppliers have started delivering pellets by the pallet directly to consumers. This shift cuts out the middleman and a lot of the lifting, though you still have to empty the pellets into your stove, which creates plastic debris and a good deal of dust.

Jon Strimling, founder of PelletSales.com in Goffstown, New Hampshire, has recognized the inefficiency of that system. "You wouldn't pour a bucket of oil into your furnace each time you wanted to turn it on," he says. "So why should you have to do it with pellets?"

PelletSales.com has developed a bulk-delivery system in which pellets are shunted from a truck to a large hopper on your property, say in the garage or garden shed. Once the necessary transfer equipment is installed between the stove and hopper, you can in theory fill your stove with the flick a switch. Note that you'll still need to empty the ash by hand every week or so, according to the Pellet Fuels Institute. Premium pellets produce about 1 percent of their weight as ash; standard pellets, about 2 to 4 percent ash.

Besides eliminating the pellet-hauling hassle, the delivery system could also generate savings, since 10 to 15 percent of the cost of pellets goes to packaging, according to Strimling. That should help offset the initial cost of the storage bin and transfer equipment, which can run $1,000 to $5,000. No small chunk of change, sure, especially for a piece of equipment that's essentially a large space heater. If you want a pellet stove but don't have the means or the desire to deal with a hundred 40-pound bags each year, Strimling's bulk-delivery program might be the answer.

The program is still at the pilot stage, but Strimling hopes to have it up and running in time for the 2009-2010 heating season.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: As part of some new federal legislation that covers a wide range of energy incentives, you are entitled to a $300 tax deduction if you purchase a pellet stove after January 1, 2009.

Buzzword: Zoning

What it means. Don't confuse this week's Buzzword with school or community zoning. Rather, in the context of heating and cooling, zoning refers to dividing a home into two or more areas where you set different temperatures. Historically, zoning was more common in homes with a hot-water boiler system than in those with a forced-air furnace system. But as houses bulked up in recent years (thanks in part to the McMansion movement), the need to zone even forced-air-heating systems increased. Besides having more interior space to heat and cool, big houses are more likely to have living spaces with different exposures. To keep these rooms from getting too hot or too cold on certain days, multiple distribution systems are needed to control the flow of conditioned air.

Zoning is pitched as a way to not only make your home more comfortable but also to save you money by letting you reduce the heating or cooling to seldom-used spaces. Some manufacturers and retailers also tout zoning by suggesting that you can save by running a space heater or pellet- or wood-burning stove in a frequently occupied room and turning down the heat with your thermostat (see video, right) in other parts of the home.

Why the buzz? Residential heating costs for the 2008-2009 season are projected to be higher than for last season, according to the Energy Information Administration and, says the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration, the lower 48 states will experience 2.4 percent colder temperatures this winter.

Those figures might make zoning a more tempting proposition. And, in fact, zoning has its place in certain situations, including where one room has very different heating requirements from others in a home. "A room with lots of glass or a bedroom built over a garage could both be candidates for zoning," says Buck Taylor, a heating professional and consultant for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

But for retrofit scenarios, the question of whether it pays to implement zoning depends largely on the accessibility of the hot-water pipes (for a hot-water system) or ductwork (for forced-air system). On a forced-air system, if the central air conditioner and furnace share the same distribution system, balancing the airflow correctly can be even trickier and costlier. 

"For homes with a forced-air system, adding zoning is number 11 on the list of things I'd do [to lower energy costs]," says Harvey Sachs, a senior fellow at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy. He suggests you put your money into insulation, windows, and other forms of weatherization. (Read our advice for cutting your heating bill and enhancing the value of your home.) Taylor agrees, even for homes with a boiler: "Every dollar should be spent in the shell of the house, reducing how much heat is required in the first place, before you start trying to solve problems with mechanical systems."

Chandler von Schrader, head of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Home Improvement with Energy Star program, adds ductwork sealing to the steps you should take before zoning your HVAC system. He notes that duct leakage is in the 30 to 35 percent range for many homes. Correcting the problem can lead to significant savings and enhanced comfort. "Unfortunately, sealing ducts is dirty, nasty work, crawling around attic crawl spaces," Schrader says. As a result, it's a lot easier for contractors to simply zone the system. "But that doesn't correct the root cause of the problem," Schrader adds.

As for zone heating with a fireplace, fireplace insert, or wood or pellet stove, that's a smart move only if your home is buttoned up tight and the fireplace is more efficient than your heating system. If your gas fireplace is 70 percent efficient and your furnace is 85 to 90 percent efficient, you're probably better off running the furnace.

Bottom line, zoning is seldom the cure-all that some heating-equipment manufacturers would have you believe. So work with a trained professional to get a comprehensive home-energy audit, including a residential-load calculation, and determine the best approach to improving the energy efficiency of and comfort level in your home. Find a qualified heating pro by reading this story and visiting the Residential Energy Savings Network.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Learn how to save hundreds on your energy costs, and discover the differences between energy savers and every hogs.

Firewood and wood pellets become a hot commodity

As stock indices worldwide declined this fall, prices for firewood and wood pellets climbed. So too is the number of reported incidents of stolen wood in central Maine. In 2008, according to the Kennebec Journal, there have been seven reported thefts of wood, up from two in 2006. The thieves take trees awaiting shipment to mills and cut it into firewood for eventual sale to consumers.

Throughout the Northeast, skyrocketing fuel costs have lit a fire under the firewood business. The demand is sparking severe shortages ahead of the home-heating season, says Sarah Smith, forest-industry specialist at the University of New Hampshire cooperative extension. "If I called up 10 folks in the firewood business and asked them for a cord of dry wood, they'd all laugh," she says.

The firewood shortage started this summer, when soaring oil prices motivated more people to consider heating their homes—€”or supplementing their oil, natural-gas, electric, or propane heat—€”with wood. "The loggers and firewood producers who were predicting and processing wood based on their usual demand couldn't accommodate all these people, many of whom hadn't burned wood in the past," says Smith.

Dwindling supplies have led to higher prices. Customers are paying up to $250 for a cord of green wood, material that hasn't been sufficiently dried for burning. Two years ago, the same cords were going for as little as $100. Those lucky enough to find seasoned dry wood can expect to pay at least $350 for a cord, says Smith.

A similar trend is affecting the cost of wood pellets used in pellet-burning stoves. "Prices are definitely higher," says Leslie Wheeler, director of communications for the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association. Although actual costs vary by region, she says the average is $250 to $260 per ton of pellets. An October 1 article in the Bangor News put the average price per ton at $300. Two years ago, the United States Department of Energy listed the average price as $190.

There are ways to try to save on wood and pellets. Buy wood pellets in bulk, for instance. For cordwood, Smith advises checking the local papers and sites like Craigslist for deals. But, remember, the short supply of firewood provides an opportunity for shifty suppliers. To keep yourself from getting burned, follow these tips:

• Request the right wood. Maple, oak, cherry, and other hardwoods burn longer and cleaner than softwoods like pine, aspen, and poplar. Softwoods tend to create more creosote in the chimney; if you don't eliminate the creosote regularly, it can become a fire hazard. The Wood Heat Organization's Web site includes a list of the best-burning species and helpful tips for building and maintaining wood fires. Tip: Don't get ripped off by a scamming chimney sweep.

• Get what you pay for. A full cord measures 128 cubic feet, or a stack roughly 4 feet high x 8 feet long x 4 feet deep. A face cord is 4 feet high x 8 feet long and as deep as the individual logs—typically 16, 20, or 24 inches, depending on the dimensions of the fireplace or stove. Be home when the wood is delivered and have the vendor identify in writing the type of wood you're getting. Wood species can be difficult to identify. Hardwoods tend to be denser than softwoods, so a simple heft test can provide a helpful clue. Also, many softwoods have a telltale piney scent. Well-cured wood is grayish on the end, with radial cracks.

• Have the vendor stack the logs. You'll pay more for the service, but you will be able verify how much wood got delivered before the delivery guy drives away. Be on the lookout for loose stacking, which is a trick crooked vendors use to short-change unsuspecting customers. If you've ordered a face cord, check that the logs have been cut to the specified length. To prevent termites and other insects from invading your home, stack firewood away from the structure, preferably in a sunny, exposed spot; you can use a plastic tarp to keep the top layer dry.

• Obtain a receipt. The bill of sale should include the vendor's contact information, the sale date, the type and quantity of wood, and the purchase price. A reputable vendor won't object to the request.—”Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Before you light a fire or turn up the thermostat, read these tips for locking in the heat.

Tip of the day: How to buy firewood

If your supply of firewood is running low, make sure it’s the logs that get burned after your next order. The usual spate of firewood scams have occurred this winter, perpetrated by vendors who take advantage of homeowners whose only connection to a “cord” is the one that supplies power to their toaster.

“Anyone with a pickup truck and a chain saw can call himself a firewood dealer,” warns John E. Meyer Jr., director of the Bureau of Weights and Measures for Oneida County, New York. In his pocket of the state, as in other cold-weather climates, rising fuel and electricity prices have motivated more homeowners to use wood-burning fireplaces and stoves to supplement the heat in their homes. Some people will burn through 5 to 20 cords of wood this season, according to Meyer.

(We don’t advise that you use your fireplace to provide supplemental heat. Most fireplaces are only about 25 percent efficient. What’s more, a heated chimney draws heated air from your home, increasing air infiltration and driving up your heating costs. Read our buyer’s guide to learn more about wood- and pellet-burning stoves.)

While most firewood dealers, says Meyer, are honest, the spike in demand creates an opportunity for crooks. Follow his advice to make sure you get your money’s worth:

• Request the right wood. Hardwoods, such as maple, oak, and cherry, burn longer and cleaner than softwoods, like pine, aspen, and poplar. Softwoods tend to create more creosote in the chimney; if you don’t eliminate the creosote regularly, it can become a fire hazard. The Wood Heat Organization’s Web site includes a list of the best-burning species and helpful tips for building and maintaining wood fires. Firewood pricing varies (in New Jersey, for example, a delivered full cord costs $135 to $175), so the usual rule of comparing quotes from several vendors applies.

All firewood should have been seasoned for six months, at which point it’s moisture content will be around 20 percent, resulting in efficient, low-smoke fires. If you buy bundles of wood at a gas station, supermarket, hardware store, or elsewhere, let the wood dry out before you use it. Wood wrapped in plastic might be too moist to burn optimally.

• Get what you pay for. A full cord is a unit of cut wood that measures 128 cubic feet, or a stack roughly 4 feet high x 8 feet long x 4 feet deep. A face cord is 4 feet high x 8 feet long and as deep as the individual logs—typically 16, 20, or 24 inches, depending on the dimensions of the fireplace or stove. Be home when the wood is delivered and have the vendor identify in writing the type of wood you’re getting. Wood species can be difficult to identify. Hardwoods tend to be denser than softwoods, so a simple heft test can provide a helpful clue. Also, many softwoods have a telltale piney scent. Well-cured wood is grayish on the end, with radial cracks.

• Have the vendor stack the logs. You’ll pay more for the service, but you will be able verify how much wood got delivered before the delivery guy drives away. Be on the lookout for loose stacking, which is a trick crooked vendors use to short change unsuspecting customers. If you’ve ordered a face cord, check that the logs have been cut to the specified length. To prevent termites and other insects from invading your home, stack firewood away from the structure, preferably in a sunny, exposed spot; you can use a plastic tarp to keep the top layer dry.

• Obtain a receipt. The bill of sale should include the vendor’s contact information, the sale date, the type and quantity of wood, and the purchase price. A reputable vendor won’t object to the request.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Click below to read out Scam Alert so you don't get duped by an unscrupulous chimney sweep.