On AMC's Mad Men, attention to detail includes appliances in the Drapers' kitchen

Much has been written about the painstaking detail that goes into every costume, set decoration, and cocktail on Mad Men, the hit drama on AMC about the advertising industry in the early 1960s.

We'll leave it to the fashion scribes to decide whether the lapels on Don Draper's suit and the furniture at the Sterling Cooper ad agency were appropriate in the season-three premiere on Sunday, August 16.

What we're interested in are the appliances you see on the show. From that admittedly narrow perspective, a standout image from the premiere had to be the electric cooktop that Draper, played by Jon Hamm, is seen standing over in the opening sequence as he warms some milk for his pregnant wife, Betty (January Jones). The photo, courtesy of AMC, shows the Drapers' kitchen.

The way the camera lingers over the glowing-red coils, the appliance definitely conjures a specific place in time. (As do those knotty-pine cabinets and the plaid wallpaper in the kitchen.) We didn't test cooktops or ranges in 1963, the year in which season three is set. But in a 1962 report on ranges, electric models did figure more prominently than gas models. Some of the first electric ranges we tested back in 1938 actually included a cigarette lighter, a feature the chain-smoking Draper would definitely appreciate.

It's doubtful that a television drama set in 2009 about a well-to-do ad exec would feature an electric coil range. (State-of-the-art electric induction cooktops and ranges would stand a better chance.) But coil ranges are still very much around. In our latest report on cooking appliances (ratings of all products available to subscribers), a 30-inch model from GE was among the top-scoring models of all types. It's even available in stainless steel, although anyone going for the Draper look should stick with traditional white.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter | Forums | Facebook

Essential information: "Great Old Appliances" features readers' stories about their own vintage appliances. And use our recently updated Kitchen-Planning Guide to find the best appliances and get expert advice for your next kitchen project.

Back-to-School Appliance-Buying Guide

Hard times don't mean college students have to give up healthful, tasty food. These appliances will come in handy whether your son or daughter lives in a dorm or an off-campus apartment. And while this gear won't turn your college-age cooks into an Iron Chef, it can save them some money and add variety and spice to their diet. (Suggested reading for rising college students worried about packing on the pounds during freshman year: "Fast Food Nearby: Convenience, But at What Cost?" )

Be sure to check your school's guidelines about appliances, and see the rest of our back-to-school coverage.

Compact Refrigerators

The "dorm-room refrigerator" moniker shows how closely compact refrigerators have become identified with college life, but only some of the models we tested made the grade. Many models have a single temperature-control dial, so you can't find an ideal temperature between the refrigerator and freezer sections. And all that we tested for this report are comparative energy hogs.

Only two refrigerators we tested had freezer sections that were able to keep frozen confections from turning to mush, and the 3.7-cubic-foot Avanti 308YWT, $200, flunked basic refrigeration. Choose the 4.6-cubic-foot Frigidaire FRC05L5D, $150, if your student will be a frequent frozen-food diner. Tell your kid to discard frozen foods that have been stored above 40°F for more than two hours, and print out these food-storage tips for him or her.

If you're willing to sacrifice capacity and freezing ability, the 2.5-cubic-foot capacity Sanyo SR-2570M, $130, combined reasonable performance and capacity with quiet operation; it also falls within the size limits imposed by many colleges. The 1.8-cubic-foot Haier HSA02, $100, the only recommended small cube-sized model, performed the best by far as a refrigerator and was quiet.

See the ratings (available to subscribers) for full details.

Coffeemakers

Many a college student has relied on coffee to get through finals, but these countertop appliances can also save your kid some real money by keeping them out of overpriced coffeehouses. Check out our March 2009 report on coffee.

If your student will make just a cup or two at a time, consider the standout $25 Melitta and $30 Cuisinart in our ratings (available to subscribers); both brew in a thermal container that can be taken to class. Multiple-cup standouts include a $40 Michael Graves model and the top-rated Cuisinart model, $99. If you want a model with a built-in grinder, check out the Mr. Coffee GBX23, $50, or the DGB-600BC, $160.

Smaller-footprint pod coffeemakers would seem an excellent choice for college, especially since they're simple to use and create less mess. But they require more expensive custom pods to brew coffee, so you might be better off stuffing your care packages with a top-rated coffee from our latest report.

Microwave Ovens

As with compact refrigerators, the usable space microwave ovens provide often is less than manufacturers claim, sometimes by up to 50 percent. When shopping, bring the boxes or clean, empty containers from your kid's preferred frozen foods to the store to see whether they fit inside the oven.

The best countertop models take the guesswork out of cooking and have settings for foods like popcorn, oatmeal, and pasta as well as for reheating or defrosting.

Among recommended models (available to subscribers) the Kenmore 6325[2], $130, bested the sharp-looking Panasonic Inverter NN-SD697[S] $160, at defrosting. And although it's not a conventional microwave oven, the $150 NuWave Pro Infrared Oven excelled at cooking some foods (especially chicken); it takes up about the same amount of space as a microwave.

Buzzword: Cookprint

What it means. Cookprint takes the carbon footprint—the amount of greenhouse gas each of us generates through our daily activities—and plants it firmly in the kitchen.

Food writer Kate Heyhoe cooked up cookprint, defined as the energy needed to prepare the food you eat. That energy use encompasses the appliances and techniques used to prepare and store food, though the management of leftovers and food waste also factors in—you lower your cookprint by composting rather than tossing scraps into the trash. Low-cookprint meals should also be heavy on plant-based and locally grown, sustainable foods.

Why the buzz? A few new cookbooks—including Heyhoe's Cooking Green: Reducing Your Carbon Footprint in the Kitchen—the New Green Basics Way; Big Green Cookbook: Hundreds of Planet-Pleasing Recipes and Tips for a Luscious, Low-Carbon Lifestyle, by Jackie Newgent; and Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating, by Mark Bittman—have stirred up interest in eco-conscious cooking.

Besides food enthusiasts, appliance manufacturers are in on the cookprint movement, though it's worth noting that cooking appliances as a category account for just 3 percent of a home's energy consumption, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Whirlpool says that for its induction appliances, "90% of the energy [is] expended into useful heat to reduce utility costs. (With gas ranges up to 60% of the heat is normally wasted through indirect gas combustion.)"

It's easy to cook more efficiently. On the cooktop, blanch green beans first and then cook pasta in the same pot of boiling water. In the oven, roast vegetables for tomorrow's supper alongside tonight's baked chicken. And when preheating a gas grill, throw on some potatoes or corn on the cob or heavy-duty-foil packets of vegetables instead of letting all those Btu go to waste.

Or when you're cooking small portions, use your toaster oven, which will consume less energy than a conventional oven. And reheat leftovers in a microwave oven. As covered in our February 2009 report on microwaves, microwave ovens can save up to 80 percent of the energy used by a typical oven. Indeed, the Environmental Protection Agency is considering making microwaves eligible for Energy Star qualification.

Remember, it rarely makes environmental sense to replace a working appliance just to take advantage of a new, more-efficient model. Still, if you do need a new refrigerator or dishwasher, the latest versions will reduce your cookprint. The average 2008 refrigerator or dishwasher uses 30 percent less energy than the average 2000 model, according to the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. Just don't fall victim to the Snackwell's effect when shopping.

Completing the cookprint cycle, conserve energy and water with your dishwasher by not prerinsing dishes before loading them, running full loads, and skipping the heated-dry cycle.—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter

Essential information: Visit our appliances hub to find the most energy-efficient refrigerators and dishwashers. Look for our special report on kitchens, in the August 2009 issue of Consumer Reports, online and on newsstands in July.

NAD rules against Electrolux's 90-second water-boil claim for its induction cooktops

"Amaze your friends. Boil water in 90 seconds." That's how Electrolux has marketed its induction hybrid cooktops, which combine two or three electric elements with one 10-inch induction element and one 6-inch induction element.

But based on a challenge brought by Whirlpool, the National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus last week ruled against Electrolux's 90-second claim (PDF), since the 90-second boast does not create a "reasonable or consumable relevant" impression of the cooktop's real-world usefulness. The NAD has recommended that Electrolux modify its TV, print, and Web ads.

Why the ruling against Electrolux's marketing? The 90-second boiling point claimed by the manufacturer is only for the 10-inch induction element with a single quart of tepid water in a six-quart pot.

In our tests, the fastest elements that we've ever tested are induction elements, most of which are in the 25 to 50 percent faster than radiant elements. Induction technology uses electromagnetism to heat cookware and has earned solid marks in our tests, delivering precise high and low heat alike.

The NAD's decision might affect marketing by Electrolux but is no measure of how well its induction cooktops perform in our overall tests. The Electrolux Icon E30IC75F[SS] 30-inch induction cooktop, $1,900, is our top-rated induction model (ratings are available to subscribers).—Daniel DiClerico | e-mail | Twitter

Essential information: May and June typically are good times to buy appliances, as retailers often put older models on sale to make room for the latest equipment. Visit our appliances hub to find links to a wide range of kitchen and laundry gear and much more.

Forum Friday: Top forums in recent weeks

Washing machines: This has been the most popular appliances forum recently, with the least-repair-prone front-loading washer and LG washer smell among the hottest discussions. These topics have emerged as our other top forums.

Vacuums: Vacuum aficionados have been posting in our best vacuums topic, while picks and pans of deep and steam cleaners have drawn numerous reviews.

Refrigerators: A newer French-door refrigerator discussion has sprung up to replace the old discussion on the same topic, along with a call for the quietest refrigerator.

Mattresses: The hottest non-appliance forum has many folks chatting about latex mattresses. And thanks to the member who posted the last word on how to buy a mattress.

Dishwashers: The I love my dishwasher discussion continues with passionate posts. Can top one member’s tale of her 24-year-old dishwasher?

Central heat/air conditioning: Cold weather and energy prices probably stoked discussions, like Which gas furnace should I buy?, which ranks as our most viewed discussion. We're looking forward to responses to a member's call for opinions on integrated heating and hot-water systems.

Ranges: These kitchen appliances have seen more activity as the holiday-cooking season kicked off and Consumer Reports published new ratings. The pros and cons of induction cooking is especially useful.

Small appliances: Coffeemakers dominate here. As detailed in a recent Forum Friday, numerous threads are percolating away in the wake of our latest review of coffeemakers.

Dryers: You’ll find numerous discussions of particular brands and some interesting exchanges on ventless condensation dryers and ways to prevent clothes and sheets from “balling.”

While it didn't crack the Top 10 in traffic, the energy saving in your home forum has had some wonderful insights to put more green in your holidays.

Tip of the Day: How to cook with a convection oven

Many people buy ovens, ranges, and microwaves with convection capability but don't take advantage of that feature. If you've shied away from using your convection oven, here's how to become a confident convection cooker.

In standard ovens, there is radiant heating of the interior, and air movement is relatively slow. In convection ovens, a fan constantly circulates and mixes the air within the cavity. As a result, convection ovens heat more quickly and cook faster. Note that some convection ranges run the fan more slowly for baking and faster for roasting.

Heating can be uneven in standard ovens because the temperatures might not be uniform throughout the cavity. But with convection ovens, the fan is supposed to make the temperature more uniform throughout the cavity and result in more evenly cooked food. (That's not always the case, as our tests over the years have shown.)

The best way to become a confident convection cooker is to try out your favorite recipes using the feature. Read your owner's manual or look on the manufacturer's Web site for specific cooking guidelines. And consider these convection-cooking tips from Jenn-Air:

BAKING
• Lower the temperature indicated in the recipe by about 25°F but cook for the indicated time.

• For cookies and cakes, use shiny, bright aluminum or steel pans. They reflect heat and allow for more delicate browning.

• For breads and pies, use dark or dull aluminum or steel pans. They absorb heat and result in darker browning.

ROASTING
• When roasting meats, cook according to the indicated temperature but cut cooking time by about 25 percent.

• Use pans with low sides so the circulating hot air can work its magic. Otherwise food won't brown as well.

• Don't use a lid. It prevents the circulating air from reaching the food.

When cooking in a full oven, pay attention to how the food browns, as you might still have to rotate the pans to ensure even cooking.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: You'll find ranges with convection ovens in our latest report and other cooking time-savers in our coverage of cooktops and wall ovens. Tell us about your experiences with convection cooking by posting a comment below.

New home stories on ConsumerReports.org! Cooktops and ovens, ranges, slow cookers, wine cellars, and more

The December 2008 issue of Consumer Reports is now on sale and online. The latest issue contains the following stories related to the appliances you use at home and some timely advice on dealing with the current economic downturn:

Cooktops and ovens: We test the latest cooking technology.

Ranges: Find the best electric or gas model for your home. (See how we test ranges, right.)

Slow cookers: Ratings of more than a dozen of these countertop appliances.

Wine cellars: Keep your favorite wine in tip-top condition with a wine chiller.

Weathering the financial crisis: Expert advice for home sellers and buyers.

Buzzword: Induction

What it means. You’ll see the term “induction” frequently used on maternity wards—“Things aren’t progressing. I think it’s induction time, Mr. and Mrs. Smith”—and in conjunction with sports halls of fame—“Slugger Mark McGwire’s induction to the Baseball Hall of Fame is not a sure thing because of allegations of steroid use.”

Today, induction is getting play in kitchens, too. It refers to a cooking technology that uses electromagnetism instead of a conventional cooking surface powered by gas or electricity. Only the pans heat up on induction cooktops, not the elements themselves. That feature makes these appliances somewhat safer to operate than gas or electric cooktops.

Why the buzz? To be fair, the induction hubbub is still more of a hum—just a small fraction of the 515,000 electric cooktops sold in the United States in 2007 have at least one induction burner. But based on the high performance we’ve seen from these appliances in our test labs, sales of induction cooktops could heat up.

We started testing induction appliances three years ago, realizing that the technology could well be the (electromagnetic) wave of the future. This spring, our engineers wrapped up their evaluations of the latest models, and once again the technology has earned excellent marks. In fact, the Kenmore (Sears) Elite 4280[0] induction cooktop, $1,800, set a new standard in our high-heat test, boiling six liters of water in just 8 minutes. (Electric and gas cooktops on average need about 12 to 16 minutes.) The Viking Professional VCCU105-4B[SS], $2,200, a hybrid unit with two induction elements and two electric radiant elements, needed 11 minutes to reach a boil, yet like all the induction models we reviewed, it excelled at simmering tomato sauce and melting chocolate—two of our typical cooktop tests.

There are some downsides to induction cooktops, price being a primary one. But as with any emerging technology, costs are trending downward. Five of the nine induction cooktops we tested top $2,000 (the priciest is $3,500), while the GE Profile PHP900DM[BB] induction cooktop costs $1,700. Our Best Buy noninduction electric and gas cooktops cost $580 and $650, respectively. (Read about the Diva 365 (shown), one of the first induction ranges on the market.)

Also note that induction elements work only with magnetic pots and pans, like cast-iron or enameled-steel cookware, so you might need to add some cookware to your collection. Finally, we don't yet have reliability data for these appliances, though if you’re an early adapter, the technology might be worth a look.—Daniel DiClerico

Essential information: Read our buying advice for cooktops, and see our Ratings of electric and gas models (available to subscribers). Look for more details on induction cooktops in our annual kitchen-remodeling special, in the August 2008 issue of Consumer Reports, on sale and online in July. If you own an induction model, tell us what you think about it. Use our Home Improvement Guide interactive to take a room-by-room tour of the top-rated appliances and most cost-effective improvements you can make to your home.

Kitchen/Bath Industry Show Product Preview: Diva 365 induction range

In our tests, induction cooktops have proved themselves, having broken our speed record for boiling water and simmered sauce flawlessly. What’s more, the magnetic field, which does the cooking on these cooktops, sends nearly all of its heat to the pot or pan, so the cooking surface remains relatively cool, a safety plus.

The new Diva 365 induction range, among the first on the market, is a 36-inch stainless-steel appliance with five induction elements—one large, 4,000-watt “Super Burner”; two 3,000-watt side burners; and two 2,000-watt versions for small pots and lower-heat simmering. (Watch our video, right.)

The 365 comes with a premium price tag: $8,950. Note that the range also requires two 220-volt circuits.—Bob Markovich

Essential information: See our Cooktops and Wall Ovens product page for detailed information on gas and electric cooktops, and learn more about induction models. If you’re in the market for a cooktop, use our buying advice to find the best model, including detailed information on important cooktop features. Before you shop, refer to our Ratings of gas and electric models, available to subscribers.

Kitchen/Bath Industry Show Product Preview: Fisher & Paykel CookSurface gas cooktop

First there were electric smoothtop cooktops, which eliminated food-trapping coils. Next came gas-on-glass versions, which did away with the grime-trapping wells typically found around the burners.

The latest easier-to-clean cooktop is the 36-inch-wide, three-burner CookSurface gas model from the Fisher & Paykel. After you’re done cooking, says the manufacturer, you push a large knob on the cooktop to lower the burners so they’re flush with the ceramic glass cooktop, facilitating cleanup. Next time you need to boil water, sauté a steak, or stir-fry some vegetables, you push the knob to raise the burners. (The photo shows the cooktop with a burner recessed, left, and elevated.)

To lower or raise the flame level when cooking, you twist that same knob, says the manufacturer. The CookSurface cooktop provides smooth heat control by using the patented AeroBurner system, which adds oxygen as the flame setting goes up, according to Fisher & Paykel.

The three burners can go from a low simmer to a robust 15,000 Btu. Other features include digital displays, quiet igniters, and pan supports that rise and lower with the burners and replace the usual grates. The 21-inch-deep and 161⁄2-inch-deep versions of this cooktop should arrive at Fisher & Paykel dealers and select Lowe’s stores nationwide this fall.—Bob Markovich

Essential information: If you’re in the market for a cooktop, use our buying advice to find the best model, including detailed information on important cooktop features. Before you shop, refer to our Ratings of gas and electric models, available to subscribers.