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February 29, 2008

Buyer’s guide to pellet- and wood-burning stoves

Pellet_bags Rising energy costs have prodded Americans to buy not only more fuel-efficient cars but also more firewood and wood pellets, which generally are made from sawdust and wood shavings, as fuel to heat their homes. More than 800,000 homeowners are already using wood pellets.

Although you can use pellets (shown) to run a whole-house heating system, the fuel is more commonly used to feed fireplace inserts and freestanding stoves serving as supplemental heating appliances. Turn on an insert or stove when you're in a room and you can turn down the household thermostat and thus save money. Converting wood waste (and other biomass, like shelled corn and wheat hulls) into energy-dense fuel results in less waste being heaped onto landfills. Plus, pelletized wood and more-traditional solid wood are eco-friendly alternatives to nonrenewable fossil fuels such as natural gas, oil, and coal.

Before you jump on the wood-burning bandwagon, though, consider a few of the drawbacks. Because most homes aren't equipped with a thermostat in every room, the heat from an insert or stove might cause nearby thermostats to think the temperature throughout their zones is at the set level. The result? Rooms adjacent to the heated space could become cold, and you might be tempted to boost the thermostat when in those rooms. That defeats the purpose of the stove or insert, because it will save you money only if you keep the thermostat turned down.

Also, your actual savings depend on fuel costs in your area. It's also worth noting that wood and wood pellets don't burn quite as cleanly as natural gas or fuel oil, which is an environmental issue and a concern if you or family members have respiratory difficulties. Perhaps most important to note is that wood-burning and pellet-burning appliances require constant attention—loading, lighting, tending, and cleaning—especially compared with the "just press start" ease of most gas- and oil-powered appliances.

How to Choose
Appliance type. If you already have a fireplace, don't use it for space heating. Fireplaces often cause all areas except the room they're in to become cold. And their efficiency is very low—generally about 25 percent. But you can boost the efficiency of a fireplace with a fireplace insert. Essentially a self-contained firebox, the insert fits into the existing box and allows air to circulate around it, thus heating it. The insert is connected to the chimney to vent the smoke and combustion by-products. If you don't have a working fireplace, choose a freestanding stove, which you can place nearly anywhere in your home. (Venting a freestanding stove requires punching through the building envelope and installing a chimney of appropriate design, or alternatively, using an aftermarket power vent designed for wood-burning appliances.) Whichever type of appliance you choose, expect to pay at least $750 plus installation fees of $250 and up. Use a National Fireplace Institute-certified installer.

Heating needs. Heat load is measured in British thermal units per hour, or Btu/h. You need 25 to 30 Btu/h per square foot, or at least 5,000 Btu/h for a 200-square-foot space. The actual heat loss (and conversely the amount of heat needed) is based on where you live (outdoor air temperature), the amount of insulation in the ceiling and exterior walls of the space, the number and size of the space's windows, and whether or not there is heated space above and below the room. Calculate how many Btu/h you need to heat your space and select an appropriately sized insert or stove.

Fuel. The average cost of a cord of firewood or a ton of wood pellets is $190, according to the United States Department of Energy. But for a true comparison of the costs, you have to look at not just the price of the fuel but also the heating value of the fuel, also measured in Btu, and the efficiency of the heating appliance. Using averages for all three, the Energy Information Administration's Heating Fuel Comparison Calculator estimates it costs $14.39 to produce 1 million Btu using pellets or solid wood. Those figures are between the costs of coal ($5.35) and natural gas ($17.82) and are well below the costs of oil ($22.83), propane ($27.65), and electric furnaces ($32.49) and electric baseboards and space heaters ($30.86).

Other significant differences between wood and pellets:
Availability. Cord wood is sold in most parts of the United States. If you're lucky, you might be able to harvest the fuel for free from your own property. Wood pellets aren't as widely available, though manufacturers are in every region of the country. When buying cord wood, be sure you get what you pay for. A true cord is a stack that's 8 feet long x 4 feet deep x 4 feet high; a "cord run" is the same length and height but includes only 16-inch logs, making it a third the volume of a true cord.

Grade. Use whatever hardwood is plentiful in your area and prepare and store it properly. There are two types of wood pellets: standard grade, which contain more ash, and premium grade, which burn a bit cleaner but are a bit more expensive. Some stoves can burn both grades and others are designed to burn pellets made of corn, wheat, and other materials. "Multifuel" inserts and stoves can burn pellets made from wood and wood alternatives.

Emissions. Traditional wood-burning fireplaces and older stoves can be woefully inefficient, and are known to produce upwards of 40 grams of smoke per hour. The latest wood-burning inserts and stoves are much better—EPA-certified to produce no more than 7.5 grams of smoke per hour. Pellet emissions are so minimal that the EPA does not regulate them (though voluntary certification is available). In areas of the country where burning solid wood is restricted, pellet burning is often unrestricted.

Pellet_stove Convenience. Wood-burning appliances are literally "off the grid," so you need to load, light, and stoke them by hand. Pellet-burning devices, on the other hand, can be fully automated but require electricity to operate. (Battery backups are available, and you can also connect the units to a backup generator. Although you don't need to tend to pellet appliances, you must fill the hopper frequently (shown), depending on the size of the reservoir and amount of use. You'll need to dedicate sufficient space to store wood (an average of 6.5 cords to heat a home for one heating season—obviously less to fuel a single supplemental heating appliance) or premium wood pellets (7.3 tons) according to the USDA's Fuel Calculator.

Regardless of what you burn, you'll have to clear out the ashes, clean the chimney, vent connector, and flueways, and perform basic maintenance. Also have the unit inspected annually by a Chimney Safety Institute of America-certified contractor.

Safety. Burning solid wood produces sparks, shifting embers, and creosote, a flammable liquid that can accumulate in and clog vents and chimney stacks. Wood can also ferry things like mold and mildew into the home, and stacked cords can shelter spiders, termites, insects, and even rodents. There's also the risk of fire and carbon-monoxide poisoning, so be sure to install and regularly test smoke and carbon-monoxide alarms. If you're felling trees and cutting wood with a chain saw, there are additional safety concerns.

Design considerations. Unlike boilers and furnaces, fireplace inserts and freestanding stoves often occupy public spaces of the home and might be the focal point of the room, which means they're made to be seen. They're available in a variety of styles and finishes—classic cast-iron potbellies and contemporary stainless-steel models—to match any décor. You'll get a sense of the options at the Web sites of the manufacturers below as well as at the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association Web site:

Appalachian Stove
Avalon
Blaze King
Breckwell Hearth Products
DESA Heating Products
England’s Stove Works
Energy King
Harman Stove Company
Kozy Heat Fireplaces
Kuma Stoves
Lennox Hearth Products
Napoleon Fireplaces
NU-TEC Incorporated
Rais
Vogelzang
Wittus

Features That Count
Once you’ve figured out the type of stove and fuel you need and calculated your heat output and style requirements, it’s time to look at specific features. For more information and a convenient checklist that outlines the various options, review the Pellet Fuels Institute’s fact sheet.

Ash pan. The bigger, the better. You won’t have to empty a large catch pan as frequently.

Automatic ignition. This feature, controlled by a thermostat, eliminates the need for matches and starter gel, and allows for hands-free electric start-up of pellet-burning inserts and stoves.

Back-up battery (or portable generator). In case there’s a power outage, this device operates the pellet-burning appliance.

Built-in thermostat. You can control the ambient temperature in the room by regulating the flow of pellets into the burner pot.

Hopper. The larger the reservoir, the longer the appliance can run between pellet refills—that means less work for you.

Viewing window. A wide bay window provides you a better view of the flickering flames.

Comments

Some might argue that the environmental & social cost of coal or other non-renewables should be figured in as well. That being difficult to get agreement on, it seems one should at least measure the energy needed to produce and deliver the fuel and add that to the efficiency rating.

For instance, how much extra energy does it take to produce wood pellets compared to cordwood? How much energy does cordwood take to cut and deliver? How about coal production and delivery?

Some other brands are:

http://www.lopistoves.com/
(believe same manufacture as avalon)

http://www.regency-fire.com/


Both are very good products. I own a Lopi, only because the dealer was much better to deal with. I liked the product offerings from both. I don't have an ash pan, and do NOT find this to be a problem. The dealer told me that it wasn't needed, and I now believe him. Very little ash if you make sure it burns right and use good wood. And very quick to scoop (even warm/hot coals) out to a metal bucket and let cool. Not sure ash pan would work good for emptying hot like that (which is needed for heating).


Great article - you addressed the important issues to consider when purchasing a stove. For those considering a pellet stove, checking into pricing is crucial. If you want to check on pricing in your area, check out PelletSales.com for the latest pricing in your area. It's a great site!

www.pelletsales.com

I purchased a multi fuel(pellet or corn) furnace manufactured by U.S. Stove; model 6100. (Now replaced by model 6220)I paid $2800.00 and it has been a bad investment. This product has had numerous problems and is very difficult to operate. It has drafting problems and is poorly designed. My brother purchased a pellet furnace from Harmon and this is a much better furnace. The U.S. Stove furnace is so bad that the company I purchased it from was selling them as of 2/15/2008 for $1399.00 just to get rid of them; and now they no longer sell them.

My lost but the public needs to know.

M.Affeldt

Excellent aritcle. I was weighing the cost/benefits between geothermal and a pellet furnace. The pellet furnace is approx 1/5 the price of geothermal, and appears to be the better option. I understand there will be required maintenance with the pellet furnace. I am considering the Harman PF100 Hot Air Pellet Furnace. Does anyone have any experience with this product?

Please tell me what the cost of a bag of pellets is and how many bags are needed for a cold night? Also what does a back up battery cost?

Wood pellets in our area are about $4 per 40 pound bag in 2007. We use one bag every 24 to 36 hours depending on how high we set the heat. We have a Harmon 25th Anniversary model. If you buy pellets in bulk during the summer, you can get a better price. You just need a place to store them.

I've been checking into wood stoves vrs. pellet stoves and after finding out that electricity is needed to run a pellet stove, I am opting for a freestanding wood stove.

Am I missing something? Seems to me that if electric power goes out, then the pellet stove wouldn't work.

Has anyone compared freestanding woodstoves? I want to get the best (most efficient and best quality) stove for our small home...

I am trying to get information on a wood burning fireplace insert. We are being steered to the Jotul which does not have a cataletic converter like the Vermont Casting. We are also being told we should install a steel chimney liner to make operation safe. Does anyone have any advice?

Last Fall (October 2007), we purchased and installed a Greenwood Model 100 indoor wood-fired hydronic furnace. It has been a terrible experience. So terrible in fact, that we’ve created a website to warn others about the problems they can expect from a Greenwood Furnace. Here’s our story:

We wanted to burn wood for heat not because we were interested in saving money, but because we wanted to be “carbon neutral” and reduce or eliminate fossil fuel dependence.

Before purchasing a wood fired furnace, we did extensive research into a wide selection of indoor wood-fired hydronic furnaces: Wood Doctor, Tarm, Eko, Garn, Alternate Heating Systems, Greenwood and many more. We spoke with many manufacturers and dealers and traveled great distances to inspect actual units and, whenever possible, see them in operation. We did our homework!

We finally chose the Greenwood Model 100 because Greenwood claimed--on their website, in their brochure, and through the mouths of their sales people--that “it is safe to operate, burns smoke and creosote free…” and is “…as safe to operate as a home water heater.”

Don’t believe it. It is not so.

Our Greenwood furnace has caused us major smoke and creosote problems. The neighbors have complained bitterly about the smoke and the town has issued us a cease and desist order. Greenwood Furnaces, Inc. has been uncooperative. We sincerely wish to “go green,” but with an unusable wood-fired furnace and no resolution assistance from the company that sold it to us, we may be forced to return to oil heat this coming winter.

If the above link does not work, here is our website: www.greenwoodfurnace-warning.info

I have an Osborne brand woodstove at least 30 years old. Are the newer ones much more efficient? Also, does anyone have experience with the Woodstock Soapstone brand?

We are looking into outdoor wood furnaces. Our property meets all of the DEP regulations. We can find dealers selling them but no one installs them. Does anyone have one and can offer feedback?

i am considering a wood stove,how are country stoves rated wood or pellet,i also thought a pellet stove would be good,but i cant find a harmen anywhere,i would travel for one as i hear they are the best,also i looked at a nashua wood stove built in the 80s it has a double firebox with a blower,are they any good,also if i get a pellet stove are there good brands besides harmen,thank you

Other than the immediate monetary costs there are some VERY important comparisons which should be considered into the equation:

Bio-mass fuel & cord-wood are natural products that are basically carbon-neutral, except for the cost of producing (or harvesting in the case of cord-wood) and delivery. This means that the carbon released by burning is the same that would be released if they were left to decompose. These carbons are the same carbons that have been absorbed by the plant being used as fuel and are the carbons that evolution of most every species on Earth are accustomed to.

However, the burning of fossil fuels emit ancient carbons which have been dormant for millions of years and have NOT been a part of the evolution of most species on today’s planet. These carbons are the ones responsible for serious pollution and climate change, and the harvesting and production of these far exceed those of bio-fuels. Coal and other fossil fuels release mercury and sulfur, just to mention a few pollutants. Mercury contamination and acid rain are now seen worldwide and this serious problem cannot be taken lightly. Electricity is heavily produced by burning these fossil fuels, causing horrible results.

Electricity produced by nuclear energy, which is falsely touted as clean, is one of the WORST and most dangerous pollutants know to life so far. The tremendous amount of pollution caused by mining uranium should be enough to shut the reactors down. But even more importantly is the reality that is takes THOUSANDS of years for nuclear waste to decompose (if in reality it actually ever does completely decompose), which is beyond comprehension of a supposed civilized society. Nuclear energy is the ONLY source of electricity which requires an evacuation plan and potassium iodide pills. And that requirement, in case of an accident, is just for the few survivors.

The annual fuel requirement for a l000 MWe light water reactor is about 25 tonnes of enriched uranium oxide. This requires the mining and milling of some 50,000 tonnes of ore to provide 200 tonnes of uranium oxide concentrate (U3O8) from the mine.

650 Mwe 16.25 tonnes

The annual fuel requirement for a 650 MWe light water reactor is about 16.25 tonnes of enriched uranium oxide. This requires the mining and milling of some 32,500 tonnes of ore to provide 130 tonnes of uranium oxide concentrate (U3O8) from the mine.

A better alternative to replacing the energy would be to eliminate the need for it. Simple measures such as using the best energy efficient technology for refrigerators, water heaters, lights, etc. could reduce 90% of the energy now consumed in a typical home.

Other than the immediate monetary costs there are some VERY important comparisons which should be considered into the equation:

Bio-mass fuel & cord-wood are natural products that are basically carbon-neutral, except for the cost of producing (or harvesting in the case of cord-wood) and delivery. This means that the carbon released by burning is the same that would be released if they were left to decompose. These carbons are the same carbons that have been absorbed by the plant being used as fuel and are the carbons that evolution of most every species on Earth are accustomed to.

However, the burning of fossil fuels emit ancient carbons which have been dormant for millions of years and have NOT been a part of the evolution of most species on today’s planet. These carbons are the ones responsible for serious pollution and climate change, and the harvesting and production of these far exceed those of bio-fuels. Coal and other fossil fuels release mercury and sulfur, just to mention a few pollutants. Mercury contamination and acid rain are now seen worldwide and this serious problem cannot be taken lightly. Electricity is heavily produced by burning these fossil fuels, causing horrible results.

Electricity produced by nuclear energy, which is falsely touted as clean, is one of the WORST and most dangerous pollutants know to life so far. The tremendous amount of pollution caused by mining uranium should be enough to shut the reactors down. But even more importantly is the reality that is takes THOUSANDS of years for nuclear waste to decompose (if in reality it actually ever does completely decompose), which is beyond comprehension of a supposed civilized society. Nuclear energy is the ONLY source of electricity which requires an evacuation plan and potassium iodide pills. And that requirement, in case of an accident, is just for the few survivors.

The annual fuel requirement for a l000 MWe light water reactor is about 25 tonnes of enriched uranium oxide. This requires the mining and milling of some 50,000 tonnes of ore to provide 200 tonnes of uranium oxide concentrate (U3O8) from the mine.

650 Mwe 16.25 tonnes

The annual fuel requirement for a 650 MWe light water reactor is about 16.25 tonnes of enriched uranium oxide. This requires the mining and milling of some 32,500 tonnes of ore to provide 130 tonnes of uranium oxide concentrate (U3O8) from the mine.

A better alternative to replacing the energy would be to eliminate the need for it. Simple measures such as using the best energy efficient technology for refrigerators, water heaters, lights, etc. could reduce 90% of the energy now consumed in a typical home.

Other than the immediate monetary costs there are some VERY important comparisons which should be considered into the equation:

Bio-mass fuel & cord-wood are natural products that are basically carbon-neutral, except for the cost of producing (or harvesting in the case of cord-wood) and delivery. This means that the carbon released by burning is the same that would be released if they were left to decompose. These carbons are the same carbons that have been absorbed by the plant being used as fuel and are the carbons that evolution of most every species on Earth are accustomed to.

However, the burning of fossil fuels emit ancient carbons which have been dormant for millions of years and have NOT been a part of the evolution of most species on today’s planet. These carbons are the ones responsible for serious pollution and climate change, and the harvesting and production of these far exceed those of bio-fuels. Coal and other fossil fuels release mercury and sulfur, just to mention a few pollutants. Mercury contamination and acid rain are now seen worldwide and this serious problem cannot be taken lightly. Electricity is heavily produced by burning these fossil fuels, causing horrible results.

Electricity produced by nuclear energy, which is falsely touted as clean, is one of the WORST and most dangerous pollutants know to life so far. The tremendous amount of pollution caused by mining uranium should be enough to shut the reactors down. But even more importantly is the reality that is takes THOUSANDS of years for nuclear waste to decompose (if in reality it actually ever does completely decompose), which is beyond comprehension of a supposed civilized society. Nuclear energy is the ONLY source of electricity which requires an evacuation plan and potassium iodide pills. And that requirement, in case of an accident, is just for the few survivors.
The annual fuel requirement for a l000 MWe light water reactor is about 25 tonnes of enriched uranium oxide. This requires the mining and milling of some 50,000 tonnes of ore to provide 200 tonnes of uranium oxide concentrate (U3O8) from the mine.

650 Mwe 16.25 tonnes

One tonne is equivalent to roughly 2205 pounds, one ton is 2000 pounds.

1.54

The annual fuel requirement for a 650 MWe light water reactor is about 16.25 tonnes of enriched uranium oxide. This requires the mining and milling of some 32,500 tonnes of ore to provide 130 tonnes of uranium oxide concentrate (U3O8) from the mine.

A better alternative to replacing the energy would be to eliminate the need for it. Simple measures such as using the best energy efficient technology for refrigerators, water heaters, lights, etc. could reduce 90% of the energy now consumed in a typical home

I would like to hear comments about biobricks

We want to convert to pellet stove for the majority of our heating and have a few questions/concerns: our home is 4200sf..option 1)we have 2 woodburning fireplaces and can convert one of them to a pellet insert option 2)we can put a freestanding pellet stove in the basement and tie it into the return so that it carries the heat throughout the house. Anyone with a recommendation on which option would be best?

Dear Sir,
We have timber log Fire wood and Charcoal for sale.
We package in Sacks and Bags of 25 Kilos.
We can supply 500 MT Monthly.
FOB, CIF and CNF Delivery Available.
Price is Moderate.
And Payment terms are flexible.
Interested Buyers should feel free to contact us directly
IBKSOLA COMPANY LIMITED
Accra Ghana
Office Line - +233 21 301 481
Mobile - +233 249304974
European and United Kingdom Buyer's should call Our UK
Office Number : +44 871 7638805 or +44 871 7633977
For more information please send us an email directly to
timberghana1(at)gmail.com or send us a fax message to :
+44 870 1308036
Thanks.

We own a Woodstock Soapstone woodstove. I purchased it used after it had been restored to original at the factory. We have owned/used it for 3 winters now and it is the best investment ever made. Not only does it heat the entire house, which is a large 2800 sq ft Victorian, it does so with a very nice even heat. Not like the typical cast iron woodstoves that burn so hot you can't stand to be in the room with them and then poof, the heat vanishes. Soapstone takes a tiny bit longer to start and heat up but it holds the heat for literally days and keeps radiating it into the home. Takes some getting used to at first, how to start it slowly and then what type and how much wood to load during slightly warmer weather. My husband was skeptical but is a true convert to this stove now. in 30 years we have owned a Vermont Castings a Woodchuck wood furnace and a Lopi. This Soapstone is the best of the best. Would never go back to another heat source.

Hi,
I have a wood burning fireplace,I want to convert it to a wood pellets fireplace.Can I do this and how much it wiil cost or I have to change it completetly to a new wood pellets fireplace.
thanks

Looking for any help on a multi fuel insert or furnace. We live in a rural area in Indiana and pay $1,000 or more a month for our electric furnace in the winter. Our home is about 3000 sq ft. We have one wood burning fireplace and a gas one also.
Can anyone give advice on what would be my best options besides moving out of my home.
Thank You Very Much

Any advice on fireplace inserts? I'm considering a Jotul and Quadrafire; yet have been advised by one local dealer about serious Jotul service issues. Thanks,

We are thinking to install a fireplace insert. Lisa E. asked for advice about it, so far no real response . Could anyone help us? Which companies one should stay away from? We are being steered to Appalachian or Lopi brands. Which one to choose?
Thanks

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