Tip of the day: Add insulation to lower your heating bills

The rising prices for home-heating fuels and electricity might not be the only culprit behind your higher utility bills this winter. An underinsulated roof could also be contributing to higher heating costs. Roughly 80 percent of older homes (those built before 1980) can benefit from additional attic insulation, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Properly insulating and sealing your home can cut your heating—and cooling—bills by 10 percent, according to the DOE.

The major home centers obviously got hold of those statistics. Walk into any Home Depot or Lowe’s in a cold-weather region, and you’ll see stacks of fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form. You’ll also encounter bags of blown-in fiberglass or cellulose insulation, a loose-fill product made from shredded newspaper and other organic materials. The loose-fill stuff used to be a professional-installation-only product, but you can now rent the necessary equipment necessary to do the job yourself. (Blower rental is free at Lowe’s when you buy 25 or more bags of cellulose insulation.)

Before adding insulation, be sure you’ve sealed all air-leakage paths between the heated living space below and the cold attic above. Otherwise, your house will act like a giant chimney by sucking cold air in at the lower levels and allowing the warm air to escape into the attic space.

If you’re doing the work yourself, keep these points in mind:

• Blown-in insulation requires some technique to ensure the proper density of insulation. If it’s too fluffy, you won’t get the insulation benefit you are expecting, If it’s not fluffed enough, you will need a lot more material for coverage.
• For large open areas, rolls of fiberglass insulation are likely the easiest and quickest material to use, and its installation is not technique dependent.
• When adding to existing insulation, use a product without a vapor barrier as one likely exists. It will go beneath the insulation already in place in a cold-weather climate and on top of the insulation in a warm-weather climate.

Before you don the insulator’s cap, you’ve got some other things to consider. First and foremost, it probably won’t cost you much more to pay a contractor to insulate your attic. That’s because the discount rate a contractor gets on material (up to 50 percent off retail) cancels out a lot of the cost of labor. “The standard response when I give customers a price is, ‘I couldn’t do it myself for that,’” says Michael Delfino Jr., of Delfino Insulation Company, in Bohemia, New York.

Safety is a second consideration. Rental blowers are not as powerful as the equipment used by the pros, but they can do serious harm if you mishandle one. Not only that, a trained insulation contractor will spot hazards in the attic, whether from frayed wiring or open electrical boxes. And he’s less likely to put a foot through the drywall ceiling in your master bedroom.

We don’t mean to discourage you if you’re a determined DIYer. But if you’re going to insulate the attic yourself, do your homework first. R-value, or the measure of a material’s resistance to heat flow, is the critical factor when it comes to insulation. In most parts of the country, R-38 is required for roof insulation, though you should double-check recommendations for your region on the DOE’s Web site. Also remember that insulation is only one component part of a total heating system. Read more about home heating here.

If you decide to hire a contractor, get referrals from neighbors and verify that the pro you’re considering has the required licenses and insurance. To find a reputable installer in your area, visit the Insulation Contractors Association of America at www.insulate.org.—Daniel DiClerico

Comments

[BCG]

Somehow I doubt the contractor from Bohemia when he says he can do it for less that the homeowner. Since when does a contractor pass on his material savings to the homeowner? What about all his overhead costs like advertising, insurance, taxes, etc? Attic insulation is one project that almost any homeowner should at least consider.

[Jim Wooden]

I'd like to see a test by CR of the various paint additives that claim, thru NASA technology to add insulating value with ceramic micro-spheres of insulation.

Here is one website: http://www.insuladd.com/seeitwork.html

I'm not saying it's a scam, I just would like some independent verification ;-)

[Ken]

With the price of home heating oil soaring, I would appreciate if CR did an in depth review of insulation ASAP.

I live in a stucco house built in 1915 with stucco exterior walls with no insulation between the stucco (1/2 inch real stucco) and plaster and lathe walls, leaving a 3 and 3/4 inch air pocket.

I have some insulation:

Attic: I have 6 inches of rock wool insulation under the floor boards in the attic and nothing in the rest of the house (equivalent of R19). Should I remove the rock wool and replace with polyurethane foam (about R 40, or just lay fiberglass R19 batts perpendicular on top of the the floor boards (but then I lose attic storage space, some of which I need in)

Walls: Very confused. Choices: Blown Cellulose, blown fiberglass, blown Retrofoam, blown Lycenyne foam, blown Aircrete foam. I want maximum insulation, at least cost without creating potential mildew or moisture concerns. As an extra precaution, what type of paint should be placed on exterior to ensure the least possible amount of moisture intrusion, thereby insuring the durability of the insulation (Thoroguard,elastoemeric,acrylic?

Crawlspace_Currently there is R19 under the floors over the two small crawl spaces (9' X 16') on either side of the house. R19 does very little and the dirt on the floors of each crawl space is exposed. I was in one recently and the dirt on eitther side of the space was a little damp. Should I cover the dirt with reinforced polyethylene at least 8 mil thick and wrap the walls with the polytheylene as well (this is based on the crawlspace encapsulation systems shown on the internet).

Basement: the basement joists extend into the crawl spaces. At present there is R19 preventing air from the crawl space from entering the basement. perhaps I should open this up after covering the crawl space dirt with the polythene.

Lastly, just as the commenter above I am very interested in finding out if the the new insulating paint additives or paints work or are a waste of money. Should they be added to both interior and exterior paints and which are the best?

[AD]

Agree. It would be great if CR could perform an in-depth review of insulation, especially comparing fibreglass batting, blown-in and the newer apparently much more effective but much more costly spray foam insulations. Blown-In $1200 - Spray Foam - $4500

The sooner the better please.

[Marcia]

i am also interested in independent evaluation of the various ceramic insulating additives and paints which claim to dramatically reduce cooling and heating costs. My house has concrete roof and walls with no insulation. The outside wall and roof is the inside wall and ceiling. I am about to paint (especially the roof) and would love to use these products if they actually work. Another web site is www.HyTech.com
ASAP please

[marcia]

correction. The above mentioned web site is actually www.hytechceramics.com

[wylie tsan]

Hi, I would like to know what CR thinks about the aluminum "NASA" technology radiant heat shield that can be installed in your attic on top of your insulation.

[erica]

i heard about the paint additive for insulation on some HGTV show. Something like designed to sell, maybe. i am buying a home and will be painting all the rooms. i would like to know if it is worth it to add these to my paint or primer.

[erica]

http://www.epinions.com/content_2452594820
found this website in regards to the paint insulation.

[Gretchen Netzband]

I would like to see a comparison on the different spray on radiant barrier products. I know there are several brands on the market: Heatbloc-75 and Sherwin Williams E-barrier. Which of these sprays would do the best job on a house that is older? I've looked on the web and can not find too much info on the spray on products except what they will promise to reduce your energy costs.

[Auby]

Here's a second to the request for more information on so-called "NASA technology" radiant heat barriers.

[Lane Mashal]

As does Ken (June 29), we have a 60 year old house with apparently no insulation in the walls. We would love a CR report or advice from others as to the best options for insulating the wall. We had one contractor propose removing the walls and adding insulation...
We suppose blowing in insulation in our only option but don't know who or how to go about it and what we should be looking for?

[Joe Pondrom]

A review of the spray on "radiant heat barriers" would be very timely especially here in Texas where we have been having 42 days of triple digit heat. The advertising for these spray on barriers in the attic have gotten to be all over the TV, radio, and papers but there seems to be no objective comparison of what it really does. My next door neighbor just spent $4K for the spray on barrier, extra blown in insulation, and 2 solar powered vent fans for a stone house that is ten years old. Before spending that kind of money I would like CR to take a look at this.

[G Kaufman]

I would appreciate an article on hot vs cold roof and related venting issues. Insulating companies recommend the hot roof designs, meaning they want to insulate the rafters in the roof and therefore condition attic space. Of course, this method allows them to sell more insulation, but does it make sense? Claims include if there's HVAC systems (air handler, duct work) in an attic, it makes sense to use a hot roof design. But why can't one just do a better job of insulating the duct work, perhaps wrapping it with more fiberglass or even using foam? If the attic is conditioned, ventilation probably needs to be added such as an ERV which uses considerable energy (and costs $$$). I'd prefer a passive ventilation design. Seems like it makes more sense.

It's difficult to implement a cold roof design on older houses which don't have soffit vents. There are a slew of venting products on the market that can be placed above gutters to substitue for soffit venting. However, how much airflow do they really provide? And foam baffles under the sheathing seem really flimsy.

Pls help me separate the truth from the market hype. HELP!

[Moisture barrier]

Your blog is very informative. However,
it is pretty hard task but your
post and experienced serve and teach me how to handle and make it more simple and manageable.

Thanks for the tips… Best regards.

[C. Mann]

I too came consumerreports.org looking for validation of the benefits of radiant barrier heat shield. I'm fairly convinced already, but my more specific interest is a comparison of the blown-in vs. panel style of radiant barriers. Is there a study going on that we can expect to see results of soon?

[hollis potter]

Does CU ever report (more than in our next issue, or coming soon) of things on schedule to be done, like the insulative paints that are asked about here? It seems like they would be easy to test. We have done our own tests. not sure how valid they are, but were not at all impressed. (re Nansulate and Supertherm) Hard to see how they valadate their claims.

[David McGill]

I, also, am interested in information about the different types of "radiant barriers". I live in Texas where summer temperatures routinely exceed 100° and often approach $300 a month to cool my home. At the beginning of this past summer, I received several different mailings about various different types of these barriers. Everything from a silver paint that is sprayed onto the underside of the roof, to a type of insulated blanket over the "floor" of the attic space, to a type of expanding foam sprayed onto the underside to the roof. Which of the different types are most cost effective? What other factors should be considered?

[Green Fin]

Insulations can be of elastomeric coatings on your roof. These coatings can reduce your room temperature and reduce your utility bills. It provides weather resistance as well in extreme temperature. EPDM Coatings

[Rudell]

I too am interested in CR's take on the "radiant barriers". Are the NASA and EnergyStar claims valid? Even more, does it work? If so, what are the savings? Who are the leading, regional providers and what would be the best cost/price for this energy conservation?

When can we expect an answer from CR?

Thanks.

[Tamara]

I came to consumerreports.com today looking for information about the paint addatives claiming to add insulation to the walls. I would like to see CR investigate their claims and soon. The manufactures are claiming up to 25% insulation improvements but users are reporting 3-5%. Heating and insulation are major topics for home owners these days and anyone owning an older home is looking at all options even if only 5%. But at $15 per gallon, is it worth it?

[Cheryl]

Came to the 'bible of products' looking for guidance on spray-on radiant barrier and if they really work saving energy. Will CR be doing a comparision soon before I spend money to save money?

[Jian]

Check out the elastomeric paint this exterior finish is especially useful with stucco that has developed numerous cracks and I hear it has high R to boot!

[Aliza]

I wish that Consumer Reports would do a review of insulation, eavestroughs and soffit vents, etc. I live in a cold-weather climate, and with heating costs the way they are... ouch! Their report would likely be too late to help me, since I need to get the work done sooner rather than later, but I raise it since it'll help others.

[Amy]

I work for an insulation company and I would highly recommend Radiant Barrier. It does work. It does cost more than insulation but thats because it takes about 8 hours to put in your attic and the installers need to be there without air conditioning for that long. The overall savings is worth the cost. Also, we usually can put in blown insulation in your attic for cheaper than doing it yourself because we get the insulation for a bulk price. You might save $50.00 but thats all for you do it yourself.

[Mike]

I am an engineer and have spent a while researching these radiant barrier technologies, which I have used in industrial settings. Since CU is currently a little thin on info in this area, I give to you my opinion for now. For info about residential foil radiant barriers: Oak Ridge (ORNL) Labs did a study in 1987, #ORNL/CON-213, about these and found about a 10% energy savings vs. no foil for cooling costs (not the same as 10% less electrical usage, just 10% less A/C-related electrical usage). A more recent study was done by the state of florida (similar conclusions) and can be found online at:

http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/en/publications/html/FSEC-CR-1231-01/index.htm

My consumer research (for my house in Houston, TX) suggests that the (spray) paint-on radiant barriers are about 75% efficient vs. the foil barriers at 97% efficient for blocking transmission of radiant heat. That said, their is also a difference in installation labor cost, which in theory should be much lower for spraying paint than stapling foil to rafters. Also, spraying paint can allow application in tight spaces where it would be difficult to reach hands to install foil. For a DIYer, stapling foil is probably the way to go, as your labor is "free" and you can buy rolls of foil off the web. As a comparison, I got a quote of about $3000 to do my roof with the spray on barrier and estimate at 10% A/C cost savings (which I suspect is generous due to the lower paint efficeincy)It will take about 15 years for my savings to add up to the installed cost of the barrier (about a 5% return on my investment). Buying the foil and installing it with my own labor would be about $1000 and many gallons of sweat in the attic. I have not yet decided.

[sue]

I have been interested in the Foil Barrier Insulation. I have been to different presentation concerning these products. I'm sure I will purchase from some company, but now the question is do you purchase the one that attaches to the rafters or the one that goes over the floor ( like a blanket)?

Thanks

[Jim]

I was really hoping to find an article reviewing the different types of insulation and which is best. I'm looking to insulate an attic and I'm leaning towards cellulose, but it would be nice to get a confirmation that I'm making the right choice.

[adam]

In reference to the question about using cellulose jim, it's cheaper than blown-in fiberglass, both have a fire retardant, but cellulose also contains bolic acid which keeps insects and rodents from nesting in your attic.

[Lynn]

I rely so heavily on Consumer Reports for my buying decisions that I'm very frustrated when what I'm looking for hasn't been thoroughly reviewed. We need to insulate a floor in a room over the garage and have been getting estimates from contractors to blow it in. The first estimate was incredibly high; it would be a very long time before we'd realize heating savings from that one. My question is cellulose or fiberglass. Sadly no answer here. Also disappointed that CR isn't paying attention to the requests for a review of insulation that have been piling up here for nearly a year.

[Angie]

In the spring, our HOA replaced several dead/dying trees on the west side of our unit, and our AC bills soared in the summer. That's when I began looking into radian barrier foils. I would also like CR to test these as there are many different weights; perforated vs. solid; double-sided; no-tear; installation over batting, over roof rafters, wrap that goes behind exterior wall finish; etc. We consumers really need unbiased information on this soon, as most of us are not only trying to save money but also wanting to reduce our carbon emissions.

[Steve L]

I recently insulated my crawlspace attic, I had several estimates done. The cheapest estimate for R19 for my 700 sq ft attic was $750. The spray foam looks like a great product and the option og having the roof and sides done and sealing the attic was attractive, especially since I was informed that it would not go above 75 degrees on the hottest summer day.

In the end I spent $250 at Lowe's for R19 and did it myself.
It's not a fun job, your knees and elbows will talk to you for days, cover up, get a mask or two, bite the bullet and do it.

I saved $500, I know it was done properly and I had enough left over to double up over two bedrooms.

I added unfaced R19 to the existing (circa 1965) R8, I layed it in the opposite direction.
If I can do it, so can you.

[Michael T.]

I have a house built in 1931 that has all plaster walls and the underlying wood lathe supporting the plaster. Here in Wisconsin, it is recommended to insulate the attic to R-60. Although the attic can be re-insulated to that rating rather easily, the plaster outside walls of the house are impossible to do even with R-19 or R-38. Has anyone successfully re-insulated such a house ? Did you rip out all of the outside walls plaster and replace with drywall after re-insulating them ? What is the best type of insulation to use in the home from a cost and energy-efficiency perspective ?

[Tracy]

I, too, would like to see a CR report on the various radiant barrier products. I've seen some pretty authoritative reports on radiant foil, for example, but then I've seen claims that rolls of radiant foil laid on an attic floor loses effectiveness as dust builds up on it. For walls, I've seen radiant barrier/insulating paint additives, but with no hard data to back up the claims. I've seen "slow rise" expanding foam kits for adding spray-in type insulation to walls, although it appears a house would require an air-to-air heat exchanger/energy recovery heat exchanger to bring in fresh air. The total cost of improving energy efficiency is thousands of times higher than the cost of the laundry detergent and coffee beans that CR routinely rates. Yet, even at 10% efficiency gain, the payback on improving energy efficiency can be substantial and well worth it - especially for retirees seeking to control long-term costs and insure against fixed-cost inflation for energy expenses. Please do some studies!! I volunteer my house for a test, if it helps!

[ron privett]

Hear hear, reviews on radiant barrier hype and or hoax claims call for Consumer Reports. Timely.

[Tammy]

How frustrating that CR is ignoring repeated requests to test Radiant Barrier and provide guidance on selecting insulation. Get off the coffee taste tests and move on to something that can provide real value. Are you listening to your subscribers? I don't think so.....

[John]

I also was searching for a CR review of radiant barrier applications, and whether they are effective or not... was disappointed not to find any info.

[Ben]

I would like to see CU do some research on insulation.

I recently painted my roof with 3 coats of a white elastomeric coating at around $600.00. One to protect the rolled tar roof from sun damage, two to reflect heat and three insulate? The stuff is not very thick. I alternated direction of painting and now have a very nice white roof. I live in the very south end of Florida and even at 80 degrees our podwer bill is very high.

The buckets claim a 30% reduction in colling cost but I feel it perhaps 5-10% at the most energy saving for AC.

[cbrown]

I'm also looking for information on Radiant Heat barriers. Please test the spray-on radiant heat barrier too.

cbrown

[Deb]

Yes, Please CR, do a report on insulation. In order to qualify for government grants, we just had an energy assessment done. Of course upgrading insulation is recommended but they are not allowed to recommend what type other than to add, "put in 2 inches more than recommended to compensate for settling and (what is lost around joists). We now have 18 mos to do the work and get a post-assessment inspection. How 'bout it? Even the inspector recommended CR! We rely on you!

[Titika]

I'm getting ready to insulate my attic and was disappointed to find so little information here. Apparently there are several types of insulation and radiant barriers. but CR hasn't reviewed them.

[S. Austin]

Sadly, I to was looking for tests of radiant barriers. I did find a government study and fact sheet with a work sheet to help figure savings with different barriers and installations. Like all things government, its long and sometimes confusing, but it'll help you decide if it's worth it to put a barrier in your home.

[John]

I would also like to see a review of the spray on radiant barrier products.

[John K]

I am also looking for some info on radiant barriers, in particular something for the roof. I am getting my roof shingles replaced and have a vaulted ceiling, which means no attic for much of my roof. My insurance appraiser suggested a ridge vent, but when the roofing salesman was writing up a bid he looked and said it a ridge vent wouldn't help, so he took it off the estimate. He mentioned TechShield, and it looks good on the web site but I would hope for more info from CR.

[Arnold]

Come on guys. It is time to review radiant barriers. Its summer time.

[jim]

I, too, am looking for reliable information on which home insulation products perform best under what circumstances. I have to make my purchase decision within the month, and you guys have nothing to offer to help me. Worse yet, the list of comments filed by other subscribers tells me that CR has been refusing to respond to this clearly stated need for over a year. What in the hell do you think we're paying you for?

[jim]

I, too, am looking for reliable information about what home insulation performs best under what circumstances, and you guys have nothing to offer. Worse yet, this list of comments clearly shows that you have been refusing to address this issue for over a year. What in the hell are we paying you for?

[Russell Grove]

I would also like to see a report on insulation. I need to know if radiant barrier really works before possibly wasting money on foil or spray. I would also like to see info on fiberglass,
cellulose, and the loose-fill product made from shredded newspaper and other organic materials. What are the Pro/Cons of each. I need to know what is the best choice, not just which has the best R-value.

[Janice Sullivan]

Wow, with all the comments requesting info on radiant barriers I'm surprised that CR hasn't stepped up to the plate yet. I'll add my voice to the forum: CR, PLEASE REVIEW RADIANT BARRIER SYSTEMS!!!!

[Ray Sibert]

With such emphasis on energy efficiency, especially in this economy, a report on radiant barriers, attic insulation and whatever else a person might do to their home to save money would be extremely helpful. My hope is to soon find a study that would indicate how much money can be saved by initiating various solutions: radiant barriers, double pane windows, blown insulation, etc. We spent a lot of money several years ago (2001) to have more insulation blown in the attic, have vents installed and ensure all our leaks were fixed. This seemed to help for a few years, but then we noticed our bills creeping up again. Does blown insulation not last that long?

[Barry]

1) Does CR even look at these posts???
2) If you do, will you please post something easy to find about WHEN you will be analyzing radiant barrier sprays...Texas gets Hot and money is tight....we need help!!!

Thank you,
BAR

[Jay Purrington]

I ditto the long list of user comments wanting consumer reports to get off the stick and do some more high value testing rather than another round of coffee, pizza or other subjective 'fluff' tests. If you want to keep your customers pay attention. I am surprised that CR doesn't even bother to post responses.

[Al B]

I subscribe to CR so that when I need info on major purchases I can find authorative advice. I am so dissapointed that there is a glaring absence of CR interest about radiant barriers, spray-on or otherwise. I do not visit CR often, but when I do I expect to find info on something so critical as this product. Please put the articles about spray on pancakes and TV remote controls aside and help us save some money.

[Garry Fender]

Help! My electric bill is $500 and I plan to add a radiant heat barrier to my attic. I was quite surprised to find that you guys have not done a comparative study of the various types of products that are out there on the market. I'm trying to decide between the rolled product and the insulated foam core sheathing that's available. Is the rolled stuff that much better? I'm planning to install it on the underneath side of the rafters, so I don't think the perforated holes are necessary.
PLEASE review this stuff and give us homeowners some solid, sensible advice on the economics of providing some radiant heat shielding to our homes!!

[Randy]

Really need to know about radiant barriers. The 100 plus temps this summer call for more insulation, but no information on this site. Come on CR - how about investigating something we really need information on.

[Sandra Jones]

I joined Consumer Reports today for the specific reason to find out which is the better radiant barrier insulation, foil or paint. To my dismay, there was nothing on the subject. Apparently from previous comments, I am not the only one trying to research this question. How disappointing.

[David]

Ditto on radiant barriers. Have been trying to find which would be the best or if it's even worth considering. Blown foil chips over cellulose. Perforated or non perforated double sided foil.

[Betty in "Hotlanta"]

The federal government currently provides a tax credit for installing the radiant heat barrier. (Check with your CPA to confirm; I heard this is an "on again off again" tax credit up to $1,500.) If you have ever seen one of those thin, silvery blankets you take camping, then you know what this NASA-inspired heat shield looks like. For us, the tax credit will pay for approximately 1/3 of the installation price (we have a big house) and we hope that we will see a huge reduction in our heating and - more to the point as I write in August - our air conditioning bills.
The theory is that the radiant barrier, stapled high in the rafters, reflects heat back off our dark roof (find the youtube video of the "white roof" proponent who appeared on "The Daily Show") in the summer and reflects heat back down into the house in the winter months. Honestly, since the shield is being installed as I type, I cannot tell you if this was a wise economic move or a green, energy-reducing choice, but I hope so. I also have no idea whether you have to get a certificate from an approved installer to get the credit or if DIY installation would qualify. (Note to potential DIYers: one of the professionals mis-stepped this morning and went through the ceiling of our bedroom, so beware.)
Consumer Reports, we need your testing on this critical topic and we need it now, while there is still time to qualify for the federal tax credit.

[Laura]

There are some great questions above but no answers. I too am interested in the radiant barrier reflective insulation for my attic as well as is it best installed on the rafters or on the ceiling floor?
Thanks!

[Bernard]

Many CR needs a PLEASE along with the above mentioned questions, as these are extremely important questions and deserve prompt answers. Thanking CR in advance for your prompt???attention to these insulating questions.