The charm of charcoal

While flipping through the pages of a shelter magazine recently, I spotted an ad for an appliance company known for its pro-style kitchen appliances. But this spread was for the manufacturer’s outdoor-kitchen line. The stainless-steel gas grill, refrigerator, beverage center, and other elements arrayed across the two pages glistened in the sun in a to-die-for setting.

How could I ever be happy with my puny charcoal kettle grill, a basic pair of tongs, and a no-frills picnic table?

But I am. For nine summers and, with any luck, many more to come, this basic charcoal cooker has done its job well. Friends have gathered around the table to enjoy wild salmon that we grilled on cedar planks and burgers that bring back the summers of our youth.

Fifty percent of Americans own a charcoal grill, according to Weber, which introduced its familiar dome-lidded charcoal kettle in 1952. The Illinois-based company says it has seen an increase in sales of charcoal grills over the past decade, suggesting a renaissance in this type of cooking. If all those barbecue and grilling shows on the Food Network, the Discovery Home Channels, and other outlets are any indication, Americans have discovered the pleasures of smoke (as in food).

At Consumer Reports, we focus on gas grills because that’s what sells the most these days, according to the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association. (In many ways, today's gas grills are more convenient to use, hence their rise in popularity.) Of the more than 17 million grills shipped in 2006, 58 percent were gas, 40 percent charcoal, and 2 percent electric. Note that just 20 years ago, 69 percent were charcoal, 30 percent gas, and 1 percent electric.

I might be bucking the trend, but to me, nothing tastes as good as food cooked over charcoal.

No matter the type of grill you use, remember this thought from Jamie Purviance, author of “Weber’s Charcoal Grilling: The Art of Cooking With Live Fire”: “Each time we light a live fire, we reconnect with generations of ancestors all the way back to the beginning of civilization.”

Perhaps the sentiment is a bit over the top, but I’ll keep it in mind next time I fire up my trusty grill.—Kimberly Janeway

Essential information: Let our Outdoor Living Guide help you make the most of your deck, patio, or yard. And before you plan your next summertime gathering, check out our easy, delicious grilling recipes, including an incredible grilled pizza. Find out what grills other people are buying and what grilling topics are hot in our grills forum.

(Photo © 2006 Weber-Stephen Products Co. Used with permission.)

Comments

[Charcoman]

I agree wholeheartedly. I have used charcoal grills all my life and have seen friends dabble in gas but then come running back to charcoal when they realize that the flavor just isn't quite right. I am about to have a retirement ceremony for the Weber I've had since 1992 and I am replacing it with (drum roll please)another Weber of course. And there is something to be said about lighting a fire as opposed to pushing a button. Gas grilles have the convenience factor locked up, but when it comes to taste, charcoal is king.

[phil kryder]

I disagree.

I use several types of wood chips in my cast iron skillet and stainless smoker box. I also use my own apple wood and grape vine trimmings. And fresh rosemary from the herb garden. It is great with lamb.

I sear with the infrared gas burner and then let the meat rest on the warming tray away from the heat with smoke and the lid closed.

Excellent ease of use and excellent smoke flavor.

I also use a "little chief" smoker to produce home-made smoked salmon.

For travel, I have the little portable propane weber and again use ground wood chips sprinkled on the flame diverter.

Gas gives great control and
Fast HOT SEAR heat.
Hank Hill has got it right about propane.

I'd be curious to see the relative CARBON FOOTPRINT of cooking with:
Split Red Oak.
Charcoal
Propane
Natural Gas
Electricity...

Maybe we should ban charcoal to save the polar bears.

[Greg Addison]

I wish CR would've chosen to review charcoal grills for this spring. I kept checking the website hopefully for ratings, because after using a (CU top-rated) gas grill for years, I decided to move up to the superior taste of charcoal.

I'd been poking around different websites looking for comparisons between the kettle-syle, "The Big Green Egg", smokers, etc. Nothing was as comprehensive as CU, but I had to choose.

Please consider it.

Happy Grilling.

ps- i got the weber kettle

[Darrell]

I subscribed to CR today for one reason; I'm in the market for buying a charcoal grill. And now I find they aren't reviewing them.... huh?

Even in the write above it says 58% of you are buying gas and 40% are buying charcoal. Does that mean if 58% are buying Ford and 40% are buying Chevrolet, CR doesn't bother to review the Chevy?

[Scott]

I too wish that CR would review charcoal grills. It is a very under-served area and one which needs some attention. I was very sad to find when I logged on to not find any reviews what-so-ever for charcoal grills. I use CR for all major purchasing decisions.

[John]

I too am looking for a comparison between smokers/charcoal and gas. Please review CR!

[Wayne Rash]

I suggest that if 40 percent of consumers are buying charcoal grills, then they should be tested, at least occasionally. I know that charcoal grills don't change frequently, and usually the changes aren't dramatic. But people DO buy them.

For example, this past weekend my 10-year-old Weber kettle grill developed a problem in which the One-Touch device on the bottom rusted shut. A weekend of WD-40 and persistance allowed it to be moved by a Crescent wrench and a lot of effort. Clearly it needs to be replaced.

But what to replace it with? Weber has a new model of this grill with a bigger and allegedly better ash-catcher. Is it worth the extra money? Is the problem I had with the One-Touch system unique to my grill, or does it happen to all of them? Are there better choices out there either for kettle grills or other types of charcoal grills?

I think the 40 percent of us who use charcoal grills should know these things.

BTW, I have nothing against gas grills. I have one of those as well, and it's great for food that cooks so quickly that wood flavor would be wasted, or for food that needs very slow roasting but where wood or charcoal flavor isn't necessary, such as European style sausages with natural casings.

But really, if you're going to review electric grills for the two percent of us, then how about an occasional charcoal grill review for the rest of us?

Wayne Rash

[Jon Sall]

I couldn't agree more that CR should be testing charcoal grills. My gas grill recently bit the dust and I am going back to charcoal. There's no comparison, not only in taste, but in the whole grilling experience. If you want convienience, cook on the stove, it tastes the same a gas grilling anyway. Hey CR, I could really use some help picking out my next charcoal grill.

[Jane]

So... does CR respond to all these queries? For any foodie interested in trying smoking and slow cooking, from the cookbooks I'm reading (Steven Raichlen's BBQ USA etc)it seems that charcoal grilling is at least an option and maybe even preferable. I too would be interested in finding out what the carbon footprint is of each choice.

[Joe]

Although I really don't need CR to review charcoal grills (My Weber kettle works wonderfully, thank you), I would like to see water smokers tested. These are infinitely variable items. I have yet to see any type of consensus about type or brand in my time searching the internet. Many of these can be used as grills as well, so perhaps this report could be done both with grills and smokers. I really like using the CR website, but only the most common items are tested. I hope they will branch out.

[Bob]

Ok, if everything is reviewed by 'our moderators' why doesn't CR review wood & charcoal grills?
Please respond CR staff.

[John O]

I agree with the review of gas grills. Some items to look at would be evenness of heat, charcoal usage (amount required to satifactly grill), cleaning ease (for instance my current grill's airflow to the coals in impeaded when I raise the charcoal to a level closer to the grill... that shouldn't be affected, but it is), price, option etc. I would be nice to see a site fairly review our options.

[Jon Owings]

Please review charcoal grills.

[Suzi]

How many requests will it take before CU reviews something other than gas grills like charcoal and even smokers. I'm part of the 40% that misses out. I've always relied on CU in the past but quite honestly a lot of the information I've found lately is outdated. The magazine was always a staple in our home. When it became avilable online I expected more because of the direct contact with your public - how about listening to us!

[Barry Donahue]

When will CR do testing on SMOKERS?????????
And charcoal grills????????
W.T.H.

[Todd Labhart]

Please review the wood/charcoal smokers. For the folks who like to cook outdoors with charcoal and/or wood, this would be very helpful.

Thanks,

Todd Labhart
17352 Coventry Lane
Yorba Linda, CA 92886

[Susan]

I'm with everyone else - would LOVE to see charcoal grills reviewed. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference since these comments go back a year and a half.

[Joe]

I agree with most everyone that Charcoal should be reviewed. I have used gas and charcoal and much perfer charcoal. I would especially like to see an evaluation on the ceramic cookers. ie Grill Dome, Bayou Classic and Big Green Egg...... I got one on accident and will say you haven't grilled until you have used a ceramic cooker. But , it's hard to justify the cost.

[George]

Hey - I've subscribed to CR for several years for reasons beyond me. Every time I try to find a review on something it either doesn't exist or its so far out of date it doesn't matter anymore.

Maybe there should be a review of CR.

good luck finding a report that's useful.

G