Getting the most out of that new car, part 1

Once you have purchased a new car, there is more work to be done to ensure you get the most out of it. Chances are, a new model with have new features that your old car only dreamt of. Beyond learning about the bells and whistles, it is important to commit to a proactive car care and maintenance schedule, ensuring the car continues to look and run like new. We’ll cover that in the second part of this series.

Familiarize yourself with the car
Owner’s manual. Read it, or at least give it a good scan, from cover to cover. Admittedly, the manual won’t be as entertaining as a best-selling novel, but you will certainly learn about your car, how to use it, and how to care for it.

Pop the hood. Learn where to find key service items under the hood and how to check fluid levels and other vitals.

Change a tire. It’s also a good idea to do a trial run with the jack and spare tire. After all, the last place to start figuring out how to use them is on a cold, dark, wet roadside. Even if you don’t plan on ever changing a tire, you don’t want to end up like the driver who let a road-service technician dismantle half her Explorer’s interior before realizing the spare was mounted under the vehicle.

Prepare your car for duty
Now is a good time to head out to the store to pick up a few things, such as:

All-weather mats. There’s nothing quite like having a soggy blend of snow, sand, and road salt work its way into your original-equipment car mats. For winter months and muddy seasons, invest in a set of those deep rubber mats that can hold up to a quart of water. When they aren’t needed, you can roll the mats up with a bungee cord and stow them away. Don’t just throw the winter mats atop the carpeted mats though; this could cause interference with the car’s pedals.

Electric air pump. Maintaining tire pressure is important for safety, handling, and the longevity of the tires. An electric tire inflator that runs off your vehicle’s cigarette lighter or DC power outlet is a big convenience, especially during the season changes, when pressure fluctuates as the outdoor temperature wildly.

Other items. You should also consider carrying a basic tool kit, high-powered flashlight, portable wheel chocks, fire extinguisher, first aid kit, reflective emergency triangles, small board in case you need to use the jack on soft ground, blanket, and aerosol tire-puncture sealant. And possibly the best item in case of an emergency: a cell phone with a charger.

—Tony Giorgianni

We'd like to hear some of your thoughts for how to get the most out of a new vehicle. Post your advice and tips in the comments below, or join in our dedicated online discussion in the Cars forum.

Tips for Memorial Day road tripping

The unofficial start of the summer season begins on Memorial Day weekend and while gas prices are leading many to remain at home for "staycations" or alter their plans, there will be plenty of people who decide to hit the road this coming weekend and in the weeks ahead. If you are planning a road trip, here are some tips to ensure a safe and enjoyable ride.

Check it out. Make sure your vehicle is working properly—check tires, wipers, and fluids. Also, take care of any scheduled maintenance such as oil changes or tune ups.

Be prepared. Bring supplies in the event of an accident or medical issue. Supply your car with an emergency kit—especially a flash light, blanket, and some tools. Also, bring along some first-aid supplies.

Know where you’re going. A portable GPS navigation system is a handy companion on a road trip. It’s a good idea to get used to the unit and map out your destination before departing. You may also want to take along a map as a backup—just in case.

Kid prep. If you’re driving with kids, make sure you pack enough snacks, water, games, videos, and music to keep them occupied during your journey.

Pack smart. Just because you own an SUV or minivan, doesn’t mean you should load it to the roof. Extra car loads reduce fuel efficiency and also could hinder visibility. Check your vehicle’s load capacity (in the owner’s manual) to make sure you’re in range.

Be patient. If you're driving during one of the summer's long weekends, expect to hit traffic. With that in mind, a good GPS system will be able to detour you to an alternate route. But even if you're traveling to a familiar location that usually takes, say, three hours, count on extra traffic making the trip longer and schedule refreshment and restroom breaks accordingly.

Remember the holiday. Take the time to not only enjoy the scenery, but also commemorate the holiday during your trip.

For more tips and advice on travel gear, family travel, safety, and car prep check out our Road trips guide. For advice on saving gas and fuel economy tips, see our Guide to driving green.

—Liza Barth   

Earth Day 2008: Driving green

When it comes to driving, it's not easy being green, even on Earth Day. After all, we need cars to commute and run essential errands. Plus, as a nation, we love the freedom cars provide. But even providing for our work and family needs, there are ways to reduce the environmental impact from our motoring.  Besides buying a more fuel-efficient vehicle, here are some suggestions that can be applied today with your current vehicle:

Car pool: There are many companies that offer ride-share programs that match you with others in your area. Another option is to check with co-workers or friends in the neighborhood to see if they are going your way. Telecommute (aka work at home) if your company permits it. This will save both fuel and, another precious commodity, your time. When possible, go shopping with family and friends, rather than alone, and "chain" together multiple destinations into one trip.

Park it: Leave your car at home and take public transportation if available, or use a bike, walk, or roller skate for more local trips. The latter options will give you some exercise, too.

Get flexible: See if your employer will allow a flexible schedule, so you are not commuting during peak rush hour times. Also, run errands at off hours to avoid driving in congested traffic.

Lose weight: Remove unnecessary cargo from the trunk, such as salt, sand, or shovel left over from winter driving. Removing a roof rack, you can lighten your load, reduce drag, and aid fuel economy. For SUVs and trucks, remove (or avoid buying) heavy push bars and side steps.

Slow down: Drag rises with speed. Slowing from 75 to 55 mph boosted gas mileage 33 percent in testing performed on a sedan and in a large SUV.

What are you doing to be a greener driver? Share your experiences and tips in the comments below.

—Liza Barth

For more suggestions on how to live more green, visit Consumer Union's Web site Greenerchoices.org and our Earth Day special section. For more tips on saving fuel and alternative fuels, see our fuel economy guide.

Consumer Reports calculates car owner costs

A cheaper car can cost consumers more in the long run compared with a more expensive alternative, according to Consumer Reports’ new owner-costs comparisons, which appear in the Annual April Auto Issue and online in the model overview pages (available to online subscribers from the pulldown search tools or from ratings charts in the Cars section of ConsumerReports.org). In fact, says CR, a car’s sticker price doesn’t tell the whole story.

For example, at about $17,500, a Mitsubishi Lancer could cost $5,000 less than a Mini Cooper Clubman to drive home. But considering the total costs of ownership for each car, the Lancer could cost drivers around $3,000 more over the first five years. Also, a Toyota Highlander can cost $3,000 more to purchase than a V6 Ford Explorer, but owning the Ford after five years can end up costing an additional $6,500.

Consumer Reports recommends that in addition to looking for a good deal on their next car, car shoppers also consider how much the model will cost them to own. To help consumers; CR is introducing new owner-cost estimates which can help consumers compare models and possibly save thousands of dollars. CR’s estimates include depreciation, fuel costs, interest, insurance, maintenance and repair, and sales tax. Because depreciation is factored into the estimates, CR assumes that the vehicle will be traded in after five years for the April-issue ratings on 262 cars. Online subscribers can compare the costs for one, three, five, and eight years of ownership.

CR’s calculations in seven common automotive categories show that the most expensive vehicle to run for five years is the Mercedes-Benz S550 at about $101,750. CR’s calculated that the least expensive vehicle to run over five years was the Toyota Yaris with a manual transmission, at about $23,250.

For more information, read “What that car really costs to own.”

Take our new tire tread-wear test

In our November issue of Consumer Reports, we recommended using a quarter to determine when it’s good time to start shopping for new tires. (See “Tire Maintenance.”)

Since the story was published, some have mistakenly interpreted our recommendation as being that when tires have worn to 1/8” of tread depth that it’s time to replace tires. The measurement is about the distance between George Washington’s head on a quarter to the edge of the coin if you are using the quarter as a tread depth gauge. Let’s be clear: That’s a good time to start thinking about tire replacement, and begin researching and shopping.

At this depth, most tires still have some all-weather grip left, which gives you time to shop around for the best price and tire model that suits your car’s needs. Tires worn to the tread wear indicator bars (set at 1/16” and indicated by the use of a penny) in any or all of the grooves should be replaced immediately, leaving little time to shop for new tires.

In reality, consumers don’t often think about replacing tires based on tread depth alone.  Some wait until the steel belt edges show—that alarms us. We suggest changing tires earlier if your tires are losing grip in the wet or during winter driving conditions.   

If you’re in the market for car or truck tires, refer to our Ratings and all-new tire finder that can help identify the best tires for your ride. (Available to online subscribers.) 

—Gene Petersen

Hyundai Genesis - A timing chain reaction

I can't imagine any company other than Hyundai (well, maybe Kia) bragging about the lower maintenance costs of a timing chain over a timing belt in a luxury $40,000 sedan. But, indeed, Hyundai did, when it announced that all Genesis engines use a chain.

They've got a point—to some extent. Timing chains last the lifetime of a vehicle, while timing belts have prescribed replacement intervals. (Letting a timing belt wear to where it snaps can damage an engine.) So having a chain means you don't wind up with a bill for several hundred dollars to replace the belt when your car reaches around its Golden Years. Then again, it also means Hyundai won't foot the bill either during the coverage period of its extensive 10-year/100,000-mile warranty.

Problem is, the biggest cost factors in vehicle ownership are depreciation and fuel economy. These big-ticket costs eat into your budget more than a timing belt replacement. Even though Hyundai is building some very good cars, resale isn't yet a strong point. Plus, paying for gas for a 4.6-liter, 375-hp V8 isn't a budget-friendly choice, either. Hyundai also didn't mention a free maintenance program for the Genesis -- something that a (much-more-expensive) BMW has standard.

—Tom Mutchler

See our complete coverage of the 2008 Detroit auto show. And discuss the event in our auto show forum.

Winter driving safety

The winter season is upon us and that means—for those of us living in frosty locations—snow, ice, and cold. It can also mean hazardous road conditions and dangerous driving situations. Here are some tips on how to be prepared on the roads this winter. Also, check out our winter driving hub for advice on car maintenance, tires, and safety.

• Visibility is vital. In the winter months, visibility is compromised by the salt, dirt, and precipitation that are kicked up from other vehicles onto your windshield. Make sure you have enough windshield fluid and choose one that has antifreeze. If your wipers are showing streaks of water, it’s time to clean or possibly replace the blades.

• Check your charge. Before you go shopping for a new battery, get your battery tested by a repair shop as part of an annual safety inspection. It is particularly important to test your battery if it is more than two years old and you live in a warmer climate or four years old and you live in a colder climate.

• Inspect tires. It’s a good idea to replace worn tires before the winter months. Partially worn or fully worn tires can significantly reduce your ability to get going, turn and stop in snowy conditions. Consider replacing summer or all-season tires with a set of dedicated winter tires, which have tread patterns and rubber compounds specially designed to grip snow and ice.

• Check your cooling system. Extreme cold can cause rubber parts to become brittle and fail. Check the radiator and heater hoses for cracking, leaking, or contamination from oil or grease. The hoses should be firm yet pliable when you squeeze them. Replace them if they feel brittle or overly soft. For most vehicles, the cooling system should be flushed at least every two years (check your owner's manual). This helps keep corrosion from building up in the system. The system should be refilled with a mixture of antifreeze and water, typically in a 50/50 ratio. This will keep your coolant from freezing to well below zero.

• Fill ‘er up. Make sure you have half a tank of gas in your car during the winter months as it will help prevent it from freezing in very cold temperatures.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS FOR WINTER DRIVING

For the cold, wet conditions of winter, you may need additional items in an emergency kit, especially if you travel in remote areas or in severe conditions.

Windshield scraper. Good visibility is your most important safety item, but persistent snow and ice can build up quickly and make it hard to see. A long-handled, soft-bristled brush can also come in handy.

Tire chains and tow strap. Familiarize yourself with how to put the chains on your vehicle's tires or attach a tow strap before you need to do it in cold and possibly dark conditions.

Blanket and winter hat. If you run out of fuel or if your battery dies, the vehicle won't be able to provide heat. A blanket and hat can help keep you warm if you have to wait for a long time in cold conditions.

Chemical hand warmers. These small, inexpensive packets are available at ski shops and sporting-goods stores.

Small folding shovel. If you get stuck in snow, this can be a vital tool. A folding camping-style shovel will require more digging effort than a longer-handled shovel, but is more convenient to store in the vehicle.

Bag of cat litter. This can help provide some traction on an especially slick road surface.

—Liza Barth

SEMA - IntelliStick - Not your average dipstick

The IntelliStick, introduced at SEMA this year, promises a distinct advantage over the conventional oil dipsticks it's meant to replace. By using a low-voltage current across sensors that continuously monitor oil condition, the IntelliStick is designed to advise when to change your oil rather than using a preset schedule. Its manufacturer says the device can detect impurities, including fuel or coolant leaking into the oil, and sense oxidation and acid buildup. Information from the IntelliStick can be displayed on a PDA, Smart Phone, or laptop computer. A company press release reads like the IntelliStick is targeted for fleet operators, who stand to benefit most from savings in downtime and avoiding the expense of changing oil more often than necessary. And with a price of around $500, fleet owners might be the ones who benefit the most by investing in it. For consumers, this remains an expensive novelty that may speak to increasingly accurate maintenance indicators in the future. For now, periodically checking your oil and sticking with the manufacturer's recommended interval is the best medicine.

--Jim Travers

Learn how to make your car go 200,000 miles.

Discuss SEMA in our Auto Show and Aftermarket forums.

New life for recycled motor oil, batteries, and tires

Ever wondered what happens to all those gallons of used motor oil, spent car batteries, and worn out tires? Well, if they're properly disposed of (i.e. not tossed in the trash), chances are, at least some are being reused or recycled into new products.   

Take motor oil, for example. Recycling is now the preferred way to manage used oil, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). And that's not hard to believe when you consider that there are several uses for old oil. Used oil can be re-refined into new engine lubricants and processed into fuel oils used by furnaces and power plants. Even used oil filters, which contain scrap metal, can be reused by steel manufacturers.

Car batteries are another recyclable product. In fact, about 90 percent of all lead-acid batteries are recycled, according to the EPA. And those materials are then recycled right back into new batteries. It's estimated that a typical new battery contains between 60 and 80 percent recycled lead and plastic from former batteries. And believe it or not, even the acid can be treated to create water that can then be discharged into the public water system, if it meets safety standards under federal and state laws.

Old tires are another product that can be put to new uses. Just 15 years ago, only about 11 percent of old tires were utilized. However in 2005, nearly 87 percent of the 299 million used tires were reused or recycled, according to the Rubber Manufacturers Association. While about half were used for industrial purposes like fueling cement kilns and pulp and paper mills, the next two top uses were for construction and the rubber products industry, which includes athletic surfacing.

To learn more about why these products should be recycled and discover recycling options near you, visit our free environmental Web site, GreenerChoices.org.

Read our latest tire and car battery Ratings.

--Kristi Wiedemann

Lexus and Toyota recall floor mats

Toyota Motor Sales, USA, along with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), has announced it will recall 55,000 All-Weather Floor Mats due to a problem with the mats potentially getting stuck under the accelerator pedal in certain cars. If not secured properly using the provided retention hooks, the heavy-duty rubber mats can slide forward causing the vehicle to accelerate uncontrollably. The recall affects driver's side floor mats that were an option on 2007 and early 2008 Lexus ES 350 and Toyota Camry models.   

Toyota will notify owners by mail in early October and will begin replacing the mats in November at no charge to consumers.

Toyota also urges all drivers utilizing a driver's side floor mat to make sure they are properly secured and not placed on top of another floor mat. The hooks for the mats are designed to accommodate only one floor mat at a time.

If you have any questions on the recall, contact your local Toyota (888-270-9371) or Lexus (800-255-3987) dealer. Or call the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Hotline at 888-327-4236.

Although this recall affected Toyota and Lexus vehicles, improper mat usage can pose risks in any vehicle. When installing factory or aftermarket mats, follow the directions. If your vehicle has them, utilize the mat anchors; they provide a real safety benefit of keeping the mats secure and out of the way of the pedals. And do not stack a new mat on the old one. The combined height of the two mats or a loose upper mat may interfere with pedal operation.

--Liza Barth

Discuss Lexus and Toyota in the Consumer Reports Forums.

200,000-Mile Club continues to accelerate

Interest in our October 2007 cover story, “Make your car last 200,000 miles,” has caused high-mileage drivers to log on and share their experiences, advice, and even photos.

The owners’ tales are quite inspiring, with drivers like Martin Sorin claiming that they still have many miles left in their car. As you’ll read below, Martin’s Camry has been to 200,000 miles--twice.

Do you have a story or advice to share? Join the unofficial club! Share your experience in the 200,000-Mile Club forum, and if you’d like to show off your well-traveled ride, you can post a photo at the 200,000-Mile Club photo gallery. Please be sure to include the year, make, model, and mileage when you submit your image.

In the meantime, below are some of our favorite posts.

--Jim Travers

We purchased a 1993 Mercury Villager in July 1993 new. We still drive the car daily and it now has 374,900 miles on the odometer. Original engine with only minor engine work… I think the reason we have had such good luck with this car is by keeping it maintained regularly and not doing much short trip or city driving. We live in a rural area and most trips are at least 20 miles or more.

--David Richards

I think one significant factor in longevity is service and an honest and reliable shop. I could not own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL wagon with 245,000 miles on it in this medium-sized city in Canada without my service technician who owns a shop that specializes in Volvos and VWs.

--Ted Whipp

I have owned this truck since new and have meticulous maintenance records. There have been no internal engine or transmission problems. Take care of all the regular maintenance and you will be rewarded. I have set my new goal at 400,000 miles and fully expect to make it in spite of Michigan roads and weather.

--Jerry Hooker, 1993 Chevrolet S-10, 300,000 miles

I change my oil every 10,000 miles and I change my transmission fluid every 30,000 to 35,000 miles. Another tip is to order or purchase a vehicle with an engine oil cooler and a transmission oil cooler if possible. I have heard and believe that most engine and transmission problems are the result of heat.

--Michael Freeman, 1995 GMC K1500 pickup, 429,781 miles

My 1994 Toyota Camry V-6 wagon currently has 416,200 miles on it and is still running strong. I hope to reach 500,000 miles with it. I agree with your article about fixing things as soon as they need it, buying a reliable car, and doing scheduled maintenance when the owner's manual says to do it.

--Martin Sorin

200,000-Mile Club keeps on going and going

When we launched the 200,000-Mile Club forum inviting drivers to share stories and tips about keeping a car for the long haul, we frankly had no idea what we were in for. Response has been phenomenal, with more than 260 different discussions. We've read a lot of entertaining and inspiring stories, with high-mileage drivers sharing some great advice.

Many forum participants say they've made it far beyond 200,000 miles, and Herman Goetjen wrote to suggest we up the ante with a 300,000 and 400,000 mile club. If we do, Scott Gibbs can join. He reports having 450,000 miles on his Mercedes-Benz 240D, which, sadly, needed its first new clutch recently after just 29 years of service.

Do you have a story or advice to share? Join the unofficial club! Share your experience in the 200,000-Mile Club forum, and if you'd like to show off your well-traveled ride, you can post a photo at the 200,000-Mile Club photo gallery. Please be sure to include the year, make, model, and mileage when you submit your image.

In the meantime, below are some of our favorite posts.

--Jim Travers

I donated my 1994 Bonneville last summer, still running fine at 471,000 miles. It had the original engine, CV joints, A/C, muffler, radiator, and the steering was still tight... Best of all, my depreciation costs were only about 5 cents per mile, so I smiled all the way to the bank.
--Jim Roberts

I bought this [Maxima] brand new and continue to use it as my main vehicle. I have only had to replace the radiator after a rock put a hole in it. I change the oil every 5 to 7k miles... I don't believe I have done anything special to maintain it this long other than that paying attention to the car...
--Rod Worley, 1996 Nissan Maxima, 400,127 miles

In spite of a less than luke-warm review by CR in 1977, I bought a new Mercedes-Benz 240D. CR complained that the turn signal lever fell off the M-B they drove and it cost $300 to fix. My car is driven daily to work and has 450K miles on it. The engine has never been worked on and most of the parts are still original. Learning the required service intervals and using them can't be understated if you are intending to drive one car a long time.
--Scott Gibbs

My secret to longevity is diesel! My (and wife and sons) last five cars have been Mercedes 300 Diesels, all with 170,000 - 245,000 miles... Always use synthetic oil, change every 5,000 miles. Always check your gas/diesel mileage at each fill up; the first sign of a problem is often increased fuel use. Don't scrimp on parts. Always buy OEM from the dealer, it may seem expensive but it's a lot cheaper and safer in the long run. But most important: treat the car as if it has to last you for the rest of your life and it might!
--Peter McDonald

The 200,000-mile Club opens a photo gallery

A few months ago, our analysts scoured the recent Annual Questionnaire data and found thousands of Consumer Reports subscribers had crossed 200,000-mile mark with their car. We further explored a story concept of advising on how to make a car last 200,000 miles by posting a short blog entry and inviting our online readers to share their high-mileage experiences and advice. The enthusiastic response proved we were on to something.

The October 2007 Consumer Reports cover story was fueled by the reader feedback. In fact, the article features three couples and their vehicles that we discovered through this research, as well as tips they provided to help others.

You, too, could have your vehicle and story featured at ConsumerReports.org, in the 200,000-mile Club photo gallery. This new area allows users to submit photos, as well as comment on images from other visitors. We hope this inspires more car owners to get the most from their current vehicle.

Share your tips and experiences in the 200,000-mile Club forum.

—Jeff Bartlett

Update: This photo gallery has been closed.
 

How to safely pack your car for a road trip

Whether you are going on a road trip for the weekend, moving to a new house, or need to pick up your student from college, it's important to keep driving safety in mind when packing up your vehicle.

Not all SUVs and minivans are created equal
Just because you own an SUV or minivan doesn't mean it can be loaded to the roof. Maximum load capacity, which is the maximum amount of passenger and cargo weight that a vehicle is designed to handle, varies greatly from vehicle to vehicle, even within a model range. For small SUVs, capacity can span from a low of 675 pounds for the Honda Element to 1,230 pounds for the Chevrolet Equinox. In the Element, four large adults--without luggage--could exceed the payload rating. Among midsize SUVs, the Nissan Murano only can carry 860 pounds, while the Land Rover LR3 tops out at 1,475 pounds. Minivan capacities can vary significantly, as well. The load capacity is specified in the owner's manual.

Put the heaviest items up front
Make sure the heaviest items are put as far forward in the cargo area as possible, and keep them on the floor. In all vehicles, and SUVs in particular, it is important to keep the heaviest items towards the center of the vehicle. This reduces the potential adverse effect on handling that could be caused by the cargo weight; significant weight at the back could compress the rear springs and reduce the weight over the front wheels, impacting steering and braking. Further, this strategy helps keep the overall center of gravity lower, reducing the likelihood of a rollover.

Secure loose items
To prevent cargo from flying around during a sudden stop, pack smaller items into boxes and strap down larger ones using the car's cargo anchors. Make sure items from the cargo section will not strike passengers in an emergency situation. Refrain from loading large items--or even small, loose items--on the top of your cargo pile, as these can become dangerous projectiles in a panic stop or a crash.

Rear visibility is important
Make sure that you don't stack your belongings so high that you can't see out. An obscured rear window makes driving difficult and creates considerable risk when reversing. Without rearward visibility, there is no telling what you might run in to--even a child.

Keep essentials handy
Make sure your roadside emergency kit, cell phone, and maps are readily accessible, just in case. Be aware that you may need to unload the cargo area to gain access to a spare tire.

Tire maintenance and pressure is important
Visually inspect your tires before preparing for a trip. Make sure there are no sidewall bulges and there is no indication of tread damage or extreme wear, such as chunked tread, exposed steel belts, punctures, or sidewall cuts. Confirm the tires are properly inflated for carrying people and cargo, making adjustments as necessary. The recommended inflation pressure usually can be found on the driver's side doorjamb, inside of the fuel-filler door, or in the owner's manual. Be sure to use these inflation pressure numbers, not the maximum pressure figure on the tire sidewall.

Learn more in our Road Trip special section.

Dealing with car vandalism

I recently returned from a vacation to find my personal car, a 1996 Audi A4, vandalized. I left the sedan at an off-site, private airport parking service. Apparently the company did not put it in a secure parking lot, and thieves looking to steal it, presumably for parts, created some significant damage.

Vandalism to your car is something most of us know could happen, but don't always worry about. However, it's important to know what to do in the event this happens. In my case, the car was parked about 2 hours (120 miles or so) away from home, making this situation even more stressful, since I wasn't sure how I was getting home. Although I grew up in New Jersey, I wasn't familiar with where I should take the car to be repaired/stored/fixed/inspected. Plus, getting home meant taking an epic taxi ride or calling in a big favor from a friend or family member, or renting a car.  Not a good position to be in after a trip.

I've taken away a few lessons from this situation and want to share them with you to make sure you are prepared in case you suffer a similar fate.

1 - Keep important data handy. Before you even get into a situation like this, make sure you have your insurance company phone and policy number with you at all times. Keep this information in a date book or PDA, or even on a slip of paper in your wallet or purse. Include with it your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and license plate number. Depending on paperwork or a cell phone that was left in your glove box won't help you if the entire car is stolen or has been rifled through.

2 - Call the police. Insist that they come to the location so you can file a report. Get the name and contact number of the officer who takes the report, and find out when and where you can get a copy of the report. This information will be important later on when dealing with your insurance company.

3 - Contact your insurance company immediately. They will take down relevant information and guide you as to what to do. Make sure you ask them any question you may have, such as towing or rental car needs. Don't assume anything.

4 - Document everything. Document all of the damage done, as well as any missing items. If the car was damaged when in the hands of a valet, garage, or when under the care of another party, go over the list with them and fill out any necessary paperwork. Request a copy of this paperwork, although they may claim that company policy prevents them from giving it to you. Get the name, title, and contact information for all of the people you deal with. If you have a camera, or even a camera phone, take pictures of everything.

Going forward, keep a folder of all paperwork, receipts, and notes of conversations you have regarding the vehicle. It's important to keep this organized and at hand, as you will inevitably be dealing with adjusters, the police, company representatives, and the repair shop at various times over the next few days and weeks.

5 - Finally, keep calm. It sounds silly, but getting mad or frustrated won't help. Yes, you feel violated and vulnerable, but you need to keep your wits about you to make important decisions over the next few hours.

This isn't a hard-and-fast list, and everyone's situation will vary. But use it as a guide to prepare yourself and your family members if it should ever happen. College students, in particular, often live hours or days away from home, and should make sure they are prepared in advance in case their car is damaged.

In the end, my car came close to being totaled by the insurance company. The high labor rates and prices for some of the parts totaled over $4,000. The value of the car was just past the threshold for automatically totaling the car. I chose to get it repaired, since it is mechanically solid. It took almost three months before I got back the car and had my deductible reimbursed by the parking facility's insurance company. I am still waiting for my rental car costs to be reimbursed. And yet, without the police report and accurate record keeping, the process would have been worse.

--Jon Linkov

Ford recalls 3.6 million vehicles

Ford has announced a voluntary safety recall on 3.6 million vehicles to correct an issue related to the cruise control deactivation switch. The automaker has recalled more than 10 million vehicles total related to this issue, setting the record for vehicle recalls, according to The Detroit News.

At no charge, Ford dealers will install a fused wiring harness into the speed control electrical circuit, or replace the deactivation switch. Reports of vehicle fires underline the need for this corrective measure.

Supplies for addressing the trucks are available now, though the parts for cars won't be available until October. Car owners are being asked to visit their local dealership to have the speed control system deactivated as a precautionary safety measure. All owners will be notified by mail.

The list below shows the model years and vehicles impacted. In addition, you can check on this recall and others on Ford Motor Company products on their owners recall page.

• 1993 Ford Bronco
• 1992-1997 Ford Crown Victoria
• 1992-1993 Ford E-150 - E-350
• 1997-2003 Ford E-150 - E-350
• 1999-2001 Ford Explorer
• 2001-2002 Ford Explorer Sport
• 2001-2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
• 2003-2004 Ford F-150 Lightning
• 1995-2002 Ford F-53 Motorhome
• 1993 Ford F-Series
• 1998-2002 Ford Ranger
• 1993-1995 Ford Taurus SHO (automatic)
• 1993-1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
• 1992-1997 Lincoln Town Car
• 1994 Mercury Capri
• 1992-1997 Mercury Grand Marquis
• 1999-2001 Mercury Mountaineer

For more information:
Ford: Voluntary recall

--Jeff Bartlett

Bumps prove costly on upscale cars

If you get into a fender bender in your upscale car, it's going to hit you and/or your insurance company right in the wallet. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) has announced results on its upscale sedan bumper test. Four out of the 11 tested cars sustained more than $10,000 in damages from four minor impacts.

The IIHS' bumper assessment consists of four low-speed tests: full frontal and rear into a barrier designed like a vehicle's bumper and front and rear corner impacts. The full-width impacts are conducted at 6 mph and the corner hit at 3 mph. Federal requirements for passenger cars spell out that there must not be bumper damage up to 2.5 mph. The bumper test represents minor fender benders such as those sustained in a parking lot or in stop-and-go traffic.

The worst performer in the luxury group was the Infiniti G35, which would cost almost $14,000 to repair the combined four-hit damage. Just the front-end bump alone has a price tag of over $5,000 to repair. The Acura TL, Lexus ES, Mercedes C-Class all topped $10,000 in total damage. Three vehicles sustained less than $6,000 worth of damage--the Lincoln MKZ, Audi A4, and the best out of this mediocre group, the Saab 9-3, which has a total of over $5,000. Other cars tested include the BMW 3 Series with $6,681, the Acura TSX with $7,554, Volvo S60 at $8,224, and Lexus IS with $9,577 worth of total damage. (See Consumer Reports' recent road test evaluations of many of these luxury vehicles.)

One reason for the high repair costs is the price of replacement parts for these  cars. As evidenced through this test, these  cars are not only expensive to buy, but costly to fix.

Bumpers are used to absorb the impact of low-speed collisions before they can damage expensive parts like fender and hoods. The problem with most bumpers is that they don't line up vertically with other vehicles and those that do don't stay that way during impact. Bumpers are also designed so they don't inflict an overly severe injury to pedestrians. The IIHS test also found that some of the bumpers were too flimsy to effectively absorb much energy and many don't fully protect the corners of the vehicle.

To help reduce the cost of bumper damage, the IIHS suggests that automakers make the bumper bars longer to protect the headlights and other costly equipment, make them taller so that they engage higher riding vehicles such as SUVs and pickups, and don't mount bumpers too close to the car body. This is mostly done for style, but it sacrifices function.

--Liza Barth

Tire maintenance tips

Federal officials have ordered the recall of 450,000 tires imported from China.  These lack a safety feature that prevents the tire tread from separating. While Consumer Reports has not tested this brand of tires, it's important to follow the basics of proactive maintenance and inspection, particularly with summer just starting. Heat is the enemy of any tire, and with summer heat combined with high levels of summer travel, we recommend that consumers do the following:

• Inspect your tires. Replace any worn out tire as well as any tire with a bulge, crack, or cut. We'd even suggest replacing all four if they're nearly worn out. This keeps the best tread on all four corners of your car instead of only one. Check the wear across the tire's tread and determine if it is wearing evenly or wearing more on one side than the other. Uneven wear could be a telltale sign of wheel misalignment, suspension damage, or wrong inflation pressure. Have the vehicle serviced.
• Check the inflation pressure. It is important to do this routinely, preferably monthly. The correct inflation pressure is on a tire information placard found on the driver's door jamb. Adjust the inflation pressure when the tires are cold or when the car has been parked for three or more hours. 
• Watch the load capacity. Adhere to the vehicle load capacity recommended on the tire information placard. Too high a load and/or low pressure will overstress a tire and could lead to failure.
• Check your steering. Should you experience a vibration or steering pull, stop and inspect the tires, and replace a tire with the spare if needed. If you can not determined a tire abnormality, then either drive or have the car towed to a service center immediately. Always avoid highway speed travel on the way to the service center.

When it comes to your tires, consult our performance ratings on the tire that best suits your needs. Also, see our complete Ratings and recommendations on all of the tires that we've tested. For more in-depth information see our reports on the early signs of tire failure and tire maintenance. 

--Jon Linkov

High-mileage Club - Stories wanted

Despite that many car owners trade in their vehicles every few years, modern cars have the potential to drive over 100,000, 150,000, and even 200,000 miles with the right care and maintenance. In fact, as we analyze our recent Annual Questionnaire data, we have found thousands of Consumer Reports subscribers have entered the 200,000-mile club and we'd like to help others join the ranks.

While few vehicles see more than two million miles, like Irv Gordon's record-setting 1966 Volvo P1800 (shown here), many motorists have driven considerable distance. If you, or someone you know, has put more than 200,000 miles on a vehicle as the original owner, please visit the Consumer Reports Cars forums to share your experiences and tips in the 200,000-mile Club discussion. Be sure to include the car's year, make, model, and the state in which you live. We may want to contact those owners with the best stories and advice for a future report.

And for those who want to get the most from their car, new or old, click over to the forums to read the latest posts.

--Jeff Bartlett

Illuminating test - Light-up tire pressure monitors

Want to maximize your gas mileage, reduce tire wear, and improve safety? Well those are the sort of claims made by the makers of the Air Alert Valve Cap System. The caps they’re selling are the simple screw-on type with valve indicators that blink once the tire’s air pressure falls about 4 pounds per square inch (psi) or more from the initial cold inflation pressure of a tire. We bought a set of four for $24.95 direct from Aviation Upgrade Technologies to try them out for this blog-exclusive look at tire pressure monitoring systems.

Valve cap sensors aren’t new; we tested a mechanical color-coded sensor some years ago under the Accu Pressure name. They worked OK, but we had problems trying to read the color-coded display, which dimmed over time due to moisture fogging. They also required stooping down close to the sensor to read the display. Plus, the sensor was susceptible to road curb damage, and we even had a set stolen on a parked car during our test.

We found that these new, blinking Air Alert stems more accurately sensed pressure changes. Think digital pressure gauge to mechanical stick pressure gauge in comparing it to previous mechanical systems.

The instructions are straightforward and the caps are simple to install, but it’s necessary to follow the instructions precisely to initially calibrate the caps to your car tires’ recommended inflation pressure. 

• Set your tire’s pressure to the recommended inflation pressure and then install the cap. It screws on like a regular valve cap.
• The cap will automatically measure and retain the pressure setting for the life of the cap.
• Should the pressure drop 4 psi or more from the initial pressure, the top of the cap will blink red until the pressure is restored.

We bench-tested each of the four valve caps and found them to accurately flash when the pressure dropped 4 psi +/- 1 psi as claimed by the manufacturer.  In fact, against our pressure calibration gauge, the caps worked within about one half of a psi (+/- 0.5 psi), notably better than claimed. (Aviation Upgrade Chief Executive Officer Torbjorn Lundqvist says that caps are checked at the factory to be within specification of +/- 0.5 psi, despite the advertised claimed tolerance of +/- 1 psi.) We then installed the caps on a Chevrolet Silverado pickup and compared them to the truck’s own tire pressure monitor system, which displays individual tire pressures. Each time the tire pressure fell 4 psi or more, the Air Alert flashed.

Pros:

• The caps are relatively small, just about 1” x ½” in size, so they should be fairly discreet, and they only weigh about 0.35 oz. each.
• We didn’t experience any tire imbalance, but it’s probably a good idea to have the tires rebalanced to compensate for the weight of the valve cap. Mr. Lundqvist says a more miniaturized version of the cap is in the works.
• Accuracy may be satisfactory, but durability is still an open question. They do have a long-life battery -- good for about two years of service or just three weeks if a flashing light condition persists.
• The caps are suitable for a wide range of cars, trucks, trailers with tire pressures from 10 to 110 psi.

Cons:

• Mess-up the initial calibration of the valve cap and you end up with a non-functional system.
• Like all valve cap sensors, you have to walk around the car to observe each tire. We found the blinking light noticeable in most light conditions and it was far easier to detect than some mechanical color-coded pressure loss systems. But we agree with the manufacturer’s advice: the system is not meant as a substitute for monthly tire pressure checks.
• Four psi is a narrow window of air loss particularly with a tire that operates at high air pressure. The natural variance of pressure resulting from the changes in air temperature might routinely trigger the caps to flash. As a comparison, the government-mandated tire pressure monitoring system (which will be mandatory on all new cars starting in 2008 model year) requires activation at margin of 25 percent loss from the vehicle’s recommended air pressure setting. For a vehicle like the Chevrolet Silverado, that would be about 8.8 psi less, resulting in fewer false alarms than the Air Alert System. But, of course, the Air Alert System is providing a more stringent and better early warning system.
• Like all twist-on pressure cap systems, it’s critical to properly hand-tighten the cap. Leave the cap a bit loose and it could actually bleed air out of the tire. And because the caps do stick out a bit more than regular valve caps, they get damaged from curbs.
• Finally, some states restrict use of blinking lights on the wheels; some devices are clearly cosmetic with brilliant illumination. It’s not clear if these add-ons are affected by the same restrictions since the light is not normally on when the tire is properly inflated and the illumination is subdued. But it’s probably a good idea to contact your state department of motor vehicles for advice first.   
• The batteries are not replaceable.

If your car doesn’t have tire-pressure monitors and you’re looking for an economical and simple way of ensuring that your tires are not under-inflated, consider the Air Alert System.

--Gene Petersen

How to get the most gas mileage for your money

With gas prices at record highs just before a holiday weekend, we present some tips to maximize your car's fuel economy:

Drive smoothly. Avoid hard acceleration and braking when possible. The harder you accelerate the more fuel you use and unnecessarily hard braking wastes fuel to get back up to speed. It's best to drive smoothly and anticipate the traffic. Also, smooth driving not only saves fuel but will also extend the life of the engine, transmission, brakes, and tires.

Don't be a drag. At highway speeds, more than 50 percent of engine power goes to overcoming aerodynamic drag. Items placed on a roof rack--such as a car-top carrier, or even a bike rack hanging off the back of your car -- add to the drag and can decrease a car's fuel efficiency by 5 percent. Our advice: take these things off when you're not using them.

Slow down. The faster you drive, the more fuel you use. A vehicle's gas mileage decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph.

Get regular. If your car specifies regular fuel, don't buy premium. Premium fuel doesn't help your engine to run better. Also, many cars that recommend premium fuel also run well on regular.  Check your owner's manual to determine the fuel that is required.

Check inflation. Keep your tires properly inflated. An under inflated tire by only 2 pounds-per-square inch (psi) can cause a 1-percent increase in fuel consumption. Check your vehicle's tire pressure at lease once a month when your tires are cold.

Keep your car in shape. A poorly maintained engine can cut gas mileage by 10-20 percent. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule in your vehicle's manual.

For more advice on saving fuel and selecting fuel-efficient models, see our fuel economy guide.

Also read, the report on the latest Auto Pulse survey, conducted by the Consumer Reports National Research Center, on issues concerning gas prices and trade-offs they might be considering.

--Liza Barth

Calling all car owners

Calling all car owners
Years ago when there was a problem with our cars, we'd take it to the mechanic. When we had a question we'd ask our neighbor or family member. Advice was limited to who was nearby or available. Now with the Internet, information is a mouse click away.

Consumer Reports' cars owners' forums is a place where you can connect with other drivers online. Whether you own an Acura, a Volvo, or any make in between, our discussion forums can help you answer a question about your car, give insights on your particular vehicle, or get advice on what to buy. Best of all, these forums are free to visitors. Check it out--we're ready to hear from you.

For expert insights and advice on car maintenance and repair, we have the John's Tool Box available for online subscribers. This popular forum is hosted by Consumer Reports auto technician John Ibbotson, who is a professional mechanic and supervises the ever-busy shop at the CR test track.

--Liza Barth

What car tires don't say, but you should know

Below is a quick primer on essential tire terms all car owners should be familiar with.

Tire type
Common tire types such as all-season, all-terrain, or summer refer to the type of tread pattern and rubber compounds that were the car's original equipment. (Information on the stock fitment is listed in your vehicle's owner's manual.) Some manufacturers, particularly some SUV manufacturers, specify that you should always replace tires with the same type that came on the car. All-season tires are designed to provide a balance of all-weather grip, wear, and ride comfort. All-terrain tires provide an added measure of off-road capability. Summer tires have tread patterns and rubber compounds built for superior wet and dry traction, but they aren't intended to provide any measure of winter grip. Know what type of tires your vehicle came with before you make a change, so you can make a smart replacement or upgrade.

Inflation Pressure
The most important thing you can do to preserve a tire's durability, handling, wear, and load carrying capacity is to maintain its intended inflation pressure. Many incorrectly believe that the correct inflation pressure for the tire is the maximum inflation pressure designated on a tire's sidewall. In truth, the correct inflation for a tire is designated by the vehicle manufacturer and can be found on the tire information placard (sticker) located on a vehicle's door jamb, glove box, fuel filler door, or in the owner's manual. The vehicle manufacturer designates this pressure to balance the car's handling, ride comfort, and load-carrying ability. Inflate tires to this pressure and take the time to check them once a month when tires are cold (before they've been driven more than a few miles), as tires can lose air over time and with temperature variations.

To learn more about tires, visit our tire section for complete ratings and explore other tire-related blog posts.

--Gene Petersen

Engage in the Consumer Reports Car Community

Want to talk about cars?  We've got the place for you. Consumer Reports has dramatically expanded the topics in our cars discussion forums to include new areas such as buying or leasing a car, owning a car, and special enthusiast areas such as car customization and future vehicle releases.  All-new, peer-to-peer forums are available for visitors to read and post messages, although a log-in is required to post. 

Our CR Auto Test Center engineers and mechanics join the conversations in our expert forums Best car for you, Tire Talk, and John's Tool Box. These special forums are exclusively for ConsumerReports.org subscribers.

We hope you enjoy the dialogue with other car owners and shoppers, learning from their experiences and sharing your own.

Now click one of the links here, and let's talk cars.

--Liza Barth

Toyota Sienna AWD tires - patience wearing thin

Owners of the all-wheel drive (AWD) Toyota Sienna often share complaints with us in the recently expanded Cars forums, especially in Tire Talk, the online-subscriber-only tire forum page at ConsumerReports.org. We've also covered the frustration of Sienna owners regarding fast-wearing tires here in the Cars blog: "Toyota extends run-flat tire warranty" and "Toyota Sienna run-flat tires? Spare us."

While most owners were pleased with the overall performance of their AWD Sienna—one of the top-rated models in Consumer Reports tests—few have had good things to say about the standard run-flat tires. 

The run-flat tires supplied by Bridgestone and Dunlop provide extended zero-pressure driving for no more than 100 miles and at speeds of no higher than 55 mph--theoretically enough distance to get to a service point to have the tire repaired or replaced. Some owners were unaware of their van being equipped with these tires and were alarmed at not having a spare tire, despite the run-flat capability (Toyota doesn't provide a spare.) Many owners found that the run-flat tires wore out much quicker than expected or unevenly, often within 15,000 to 20,000 miles. Some owners found themselves facing an aggravating annual replacement, costing around $700 or more. Toyota finally addressed the issue last year with an extended warranty on 2004 to some 2006 model-year vehicles, mostly addressing the irregular wear condition. Later-model vehicles came with a revised tire intended to eliminate the fast-wearing condition. 

To find out for ourselves, we purchased a new 2007 Toyota Sienna XLE AWD shod with the Dunlop SP Sport 4000 Self-Supporting Technology tires (DSST)--jargon for run-flat tires. You can see a vehicle road test report on this vehicle and the front wheel drive Sienna in the June issue of Consumer Reports and on ConsumerReports.org soon.

We found a nice little Tire Information booklet in our van for the run-flat tires, describing how they work and should be maintained. Interestingly, the booklet states: "Tread life of AWD Sienna's run-flat tires may be as low as 15,000-20,000 miles and may be as high as 40,000 miles."

We're going keep our AWD Sienna for a long-term evaluation to see what we get in terms of wear mileage and if the changes the tire manufacturer made to the tires have helped eliminate its propensity to wear unevenly. We're aiming to run the vehicle to the point of tire replacement and will share with you along the way how the tires are wearing.  We hope to start the evaluation in the next couple of weeks.   

—Gene Petersen

Related blog posts:
Update: Toyota Sienna AWD run-flat tires
Toyota Sienna AWD run-flat tires wear well for us
Toyota Sienna AWD tires - patience wearing thin
Toyota extends run-flat tire warranty
Toyota Sienna run-flat tires? Spare us.
Run-flat tires go flat with our readers  

Chrysler Sebring: Start me up, again

You really don't expect a brand new car with less than 2,000 miles on it to almost strand you somewhere. After all, starting is the most fundamental task a car has to do. But that is exactly what has happened with our Chrysler Sebring V6, repeatedly.

I parked the car in a Wal-Mart parking lot, did my shopping (buying oil for my wife's van), and got in to start the car. Turn the key... nothing. Radio worked, lights worked, but no cranking. Tried it again... nothing. I fumbled around in the glove box, only to find that Chrysler doesn't have roadside assistance. (Towing for warranty items is free, though.) I was just about to go into the store to see if their facilities crew had a booster pack when I gave it one more try, and it started.

A read through the logbook shows that I'm not alone. My colleague, Gabe Shenhar, couldn't start the car when he was double-parked in front of a terminal at the bustling JFK airport. The car almost got towed by the security guards during several nerve-racking moments before it obliged to start. Mike Leung almost got stuck, too. Although each time the car eventually started, it really upset us.

We took the car to the dealer, where they found that ground wires were duct taped to the firewall rather than being properly connected. (The dealer asked if we messed with the car. At this point we were just racking up break-in miles; no test equipment had been anywhere near it.) Beyond that, part of the wiring harness hung down from under the dashboard; your foot would kick it when you used the dead-pedal foot rest. Maybe, as the old story goes, our Sebring was built on a Friday...

Keep in mind that our personal experiences with our test cars don't play a part in our road test results or reliability predictions. Our reliability data comes 100 percent from the annual subscriber survey. That said, we're really hoping not too many subscribers had the same problem we did.

--Tom Mutchler

Tires speak, and they are aging

Just as we tend to wrinkle and gray as we grow older, tires can show signs of aging. Ozone, ultraviolet light, and heat can affect tire rubber much like they affect our skin. In your monthly checks for tire inflation pressure, take the time to look for signs of aging such as cracking in the sidewall. If you see cracks, perhaps it's time to replace the tires or at least get them to a mechanic for a thorough inspection.   

If you accumulate more years than miles on your tires, you may also want to at least be knowledgeable of the time when a tire was made. The tire's sidewall carries an alphanumeric string of characters following the letters DOT on at least one side. (For more information, read "How to decode tire size and other data.") The last four digits of that code indicate the week and year that the tire was made. "3305," for example, would indicate that a tire was manufactured during the 33rd week of 2005. If you find that the tires are 10-years old or more, it's time to consider replacement. That includes the spare tire, too. Some vehicle manufacturers suggest even earlier than that, typically six years or more. Check your owner's manual for specific tire replacement recommendations.

--Gene Petersen

Tires speak, and they are worn out

Did you know that tire's wear their wear on their sleeve? Most tires include a simple tread-wear indicator molded into their tread rubber that indicates when a tire is worn to its legal 2/32" (1/16") limit. When the tread rubber is worn evenly with the bar, it's time for new tires. If you're in an area where poor weather is common, your tires may tell you they need replacing even before they reach the legal limit. If you suddenly seem to be hydroplaning through the same puddle you traveled through every rainstorm without incident or if climbing your snow-covered driveway is more challenging than it was last year, then it's likely that the worn tire tread is preventing the tires from dissipating water or gripping as they once did. In our tests of all-season tires that were only half worn, we found hydroplaning resistance and winter traction were significantly reduced.

How a tire wears can be nearly as informative as when a tire wears. If a tire's edges or shoulders are wearing faster than the center, there's a good chance that the tire has been run under inflated, which tends to put more weight onto a tread's edge. If the wear in the center appears more than on the shoulders, just the opposite is true and you may have too much air in the tire.

When one edge is wearing more quickly than the other, it often indicates that the car needs an alignment or perhaps suspension components are worn and need replacing. --Gene Petersen

Tires speak, and they are undernourished

For those of us who live in a world of tires on a day-to-day basis, talking tires isn't necessarily considered out of the ordinary. But for even someone who isn't surrounded by tires as much as we are, tires are actually fairly good at telling what ails them and when its time to do something to keep them "healthy."

Undernourished: Much like when people lose weight if they don't eat, tires actually dissipate air out through their rubber skin if not topped off. Tire rubber is permeable to air molecules and CR studies have shown even sitting still a tire can lose as much as 40 percent of its inflation pressure in a year's time. The problem is that they may not show it visually.

No worse and no more time consuming than taking your temperature when you're ill, a check with a tire-pressure gauge once a month is the best way preventative medicine. A quick check can make sure that your tires have the proper inflation to handle and wear as they were intended, as well as delivery the proper fuel economy.

Under-inflated tires have higher rolling resistance, which can lower fuel economy. Under-inflated tires also flex more and can't carry as much load as when they're correctly inflated. Hence, such tires generate more heat than normal, which can potentially lead to a tire failure or blowout. Tire-pressure monitoring systems, required on new cars starting this coming model year (2007) will help tires get their message across with a signal in the dash letting you know when inflation pressures are low. But on older models, and even as good policy with new ones, it is best to use a tire gauge as part of your monthly car care routine.

--Gene Petersen